Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CT : Southeast : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : The Bloody Beetroots (5.11a/b)
By: Brian When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Height dependent. For me (5'11") it is no harder than Dat-Mantel (5.10) at the Gunks.
|
Location: CT : Southeast : Lantern Hill : Porcelain Arete (5.9- R)
By: Brian When: May 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: PG13?? Where did you get that from? It is ground fall most of the way up the route. It isn't a lead. It is a free solo on gear. Someone broke their back here on Zen Master so be careful.
|
Location: CT : Southeast : Lantern Hill : Porcelain Arete (5.9- R)
By: Brian When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This can be set up with 75 ft of static rope off trees. I wouldn't leave cams on top. They could get stolen. It has happened.
|
Location: MA : Joe's Rock : Smokey Joe's Cafe (5.10b)
By: Brian When: May 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you are going to quote the route information directly from my copyrighted site you should at least cite the source.
www.climbri.com/joes.htm
|
Location: CT : Northeast : Ross Rocks : Parking Lot Wall : Good Book (5.8+)
By: Brian When: May 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is actually a 5.8+ There is a 5.9 variation.
www.climbri.com/ross.htm
|
Location: MA
By: Brian When: Apr 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: "A 'new' area on public land that has never been climbed before." There is no such thing in the east. Also just because it is public land, bolting may not be legal.
>>>Hey all. I just moved from the west, where there are tons of sport routes. I have been exploring a new area in the Boston area on public land. It has never been climbed as far as I can tell. If I put up bolted routes, will I be roughing up someones feathers? A few bolts would make some r... more >>
|
Location: CT : Northeast : Ross Rocks : Party Wall : Unknown 5.6 (5.6) : ... : Photo
By: Brian When: Mar 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: While your are at it try these roofs on the north end.
| North end roofs Ross Pond
Submitted By: Brian on Mar 25, 2013
|
|
Location: CT : Northeast : Ross Rocks : Party Wall : Unknown 5.6 (5.6) : ... : Photo
By: Brian When: Mar 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Morgan,
You're on. It will be worth it to see someone climb it. I think you will find it is harder than it looks. There is another hard roof there you can have a go at too.
Brian
|
Location: CT : Northeast : Ross Rocks : Party Wall : Unknown 5.6 (5.6) : ... : Photo
By: Brian When: Mar 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ha...if you can onsite it I'll buy you all the beers you can drink.
|
Location: CT : Northeast : Ross Rocks : Party Wall : Unknown 5.6 (5.6)
By: Brian When: Mar 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't have any photos of the roof on the north end with the crack in it. Next time I'm there I'll take one. Here is the roof next to the 5.8. I marked it in red. I'm not sure if it will even go. If it does it is 5.harder-than-I-can-climb.
| Ross Roof 5.20?
Submitted By: Brian on Mar 19, 2013
|
|
Location: CT : Northeast : Ross Rocks : Parking Lot Wall : Unknown 5.5 (5.5)
By: Brian When: Mar 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: It has been done many times. It is used by the AMC classes as a begineer climb.
|
Location: CT : Northeast : Ross Rocks : Party Wall : Unknown 5.6 (5.6)
By: Brian When: Mar 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Joe,
The 5.8ish route with the small overhang on the topo has gone free many times. I assume you are talking about the big roof to the left of that route. It has not gone free. Good project for you.
There is also another big roof at the north end between "Disneyworld" and "Something Dirty" that may go free if you like hanging upside down jamming a crack.
Brian
|
Location: CT : Northeast : Ross Rocks
By: Brian When: Mar 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love MP but the info and topos at www.climbri.com are still much better than the sketchy/incomplete info on this site.
[www.climbri.com/ross.htm]
BTW...that is Ross Pond on the cover of the April 2013 Rock and Ice.
|
Location: CT : Northeast : Ross Rocks : Party Wall : Unknown 5.6 (5.6)
By: Brian When: Mar 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: No name. It has been top-roped and led many times over many years so the first ascent is lost to history. There are some ancient pitons on this wall on the roof route. The AMC climbed here back in the 1960s.
|
Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : The Bugaboos
By: Brian When: Jan 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are two guidebooks both published in 2003.
www.ontopmountaineering.com/bugaboosbooks.php
|
Location: CT : Central CT Traprock : Cathole : x (5.11 X)
By: Brian When: Dec 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Marco Fedrizzi, Ken Nichols, May 1990. First ascent was protected with hooks. Between Friday the 13th and Fool's Mate.
|
Location: CT : Southeast : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : Wallow In The Hollow (5.12c)
By: Brian When: Dec 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm pretty sure it was Whitey (John) MacLean but that might have been the TR and not the lead.
|
Location: MA : Cape Ann : Mt. Ann : The Lot Crag : Photo
By: Brian When: Dec 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climb should be called "Plumber's Crack."
|
Location: Rhode Island : Beach Pond : North Shore : Parking Lot Wall
By: Brian When: Sep 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah...I consider Ross Pond and Lantern Hill to be Rhode Island climbing areas too. :-) There are more RI climbers that climb there than CT climbers.
|
Location: Rhode Island : Beach Pond : North Shore : Parking Lot Wall
By: Brian When: Sep 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If it is the same boat launch I used it is in CT. Should this cliff/boulder be in the CT section?
www.ct.gov/dep/cwp/view.asp?A=2686&Q=383708
|
Location: Rhode Island : Durfee Hill
By: Brian When: Sep 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mark,
The crag you refer to on Yosemite Valley Road in Dayville is heavily posted. There is a No Trespassing sign every 20 feet. It's too bad as it is a decent cliff. I have an old photo of Whitey climbing on the 5.9 arete.
Brian
|
Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Mount Huntington : Photo
By: Brian When: Sep 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found this at the bottom of Southern Migration/Perennial in Sept 2012.
|
Location: CT : Central CT Traprock : Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff... : Photo
By: Brian When: Sep 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: How about letting democracy prevail and getting like minded people voted on to the RMF Board? I'm one RMF member who will vote for someone who proposes bolted anchors in his/her platform. Many of the Board members have been on the Board for ten years or more. I don't mean to slight or diminish their volunteer contribution to the organization but perhaps it is time for change. Like it or not climbing has changed. There are more people climbing so more environmental impact.
Yeah...and I know t... more >>
|
Location: CT : Central CT Traprock : Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff... : Photo
By: Brian When: Sep 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sounds like a great idea. RMF organizes a clean-up/trail maintenance get together every year. Perhaps some of this reforestation could be incorporated into that. The second crux will be keeping people off the area if you want to move the tree-line closer to the edge of the cliff. Climbers who don't have trad gear and/or don't know how to place it will go back for tree anchors. And in places the rock is pretty fractured for gear anchors even if you have gear. So bolted anchors will be absolu... more >>
|
Location: CT : Central CT Traprock : Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff... : Photo
By: Brian When: Sep 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Metacomet trail goes over the top of the cliff. So there are lots of "tourists" (non-climbers) up there. Putting anchors on top of every climb would reduce foot traffic but it would hardly eliminate it and, as you know, it will never happen. Speaking of erosion, the bottom of the cliff suffers from the same overuse (almost all from climbers). The tree roots at the bottom have been getting more exposed over the years. Probably the only fix for that is to strategically place more rocks as ... more >>
|
RSS Feed
