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Eiger summit


Member Since: Sep 27, 2001
Last Visit: 22 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,016
Total Points: 626
Last Year: 173
Last 30 Days: 14
29 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 731 | Routes 5 | Areas 5 | Photos 66 | Page Improvements | Comments 171 | Posts 447 | Stars 6 | Ratings 31
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MA : Farley Ledge : Photo
By: Brian When: Nov 14, 2014

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Comments: Fun jug fest. Anyone know the name of this climb?


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Mt. Lincoln : Lincoln's Throat (WI3)
By: Brian When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: You may want to only do this in early winter conditions. I saw a huge slab avalanche go down this gully. It is an avalanche chute once the snow builds.


Location: CT : Eastern Highlands : Ross Rocks : Table Rock : Invitation to Dinner (5.9 X)
By: Brian When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, I would call it 5.7ish but I'm constantly accused of sandbagging grades. Most people call the face 5.8. Probably height dependent.


Location: CT : Eastern Highlands : Ross Rocks : Table Rock : Invitation to Dinner (5.9 X)
By: Brian When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: Chris,

I was there the other day and climbed the route again to make sure I know what I'm talking about. If you fall anywhere from a body length above the first piece to the second piece 30 feet above you are going to hit the ground which is covered in rocks. If you survived, you would probably be spending the rest of your life in a wheelchair sucking your dinner through a straw. That is the definition of an X rated climb. Here is a photo of the climb. It is not too clear but you can see the... more >>


Location: CT : Eastern Highlands : Ross Rocks : Table Rock : Invitation to Dinner (5.9 X)
By: Brian When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: This is not on the Party Wall. This is the Party Wall: mountainproject.com/v/party-wa...

This is not PG-13. You have the potential for a long (30 foot?) fall between the first and second piece of gear and will deck. It is a free solo on gear and at least an "R" and probably an "X" should you fall before getting to where you can place the second piece of pro.

I saw Nichols lead this many many years ago (around 2000) when we were teaching an AMC class at the cliff. He ski... more >>


Location: CT : Eastern Highlands : Ross Rocks
By: Brian When: Oct 25, 2014

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Comments: Dave Fasulo and I looked closely at the flake in the middle of the big roof on the Party Wall and determined that we couldn't even aid it due to the lack of any crack whatsoever. There are some big roofs on the North End that would probably go if you are into hand jamming cracks while dangling.


Location: NY : The Gunks
By: Brian When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: Many climbs at the Gunks are very height dependent due to the horizontal cracks and overhangs. If you can make it to the next positive hold in the horizontal above you it may feel like 5.7. If you can't reach the next horizontal than it may feel like 5.10. Hence the impression that a Gunks route is sandbagged will vary depending on your height.


Location: Rhode Island : Snake Den South
By: Brian When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: >> "including a pretty good size cliff (close to the power lines)."
I climbed at this cliff recently. Not exactly a destination but a few fun lines. One leadable crack. It needs some cleaning and traffic.


Location: CT : Eastern Highlands : Pot Hole
By: Brian When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: Perhaps someone who regularly climbs here can approach the landowner and explain that CT has a statute (Recreational Use Act, HB 1551) that exempts landowners from liability from people using their land for recreation.

ascentclimbing.net/access-upda...


Location: NH : Hounds Hump Ridge (Eaglet e... : The Eaglet : The West Chimney (5.7)
By: Brian When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: I've done this route a bunch of times and as recently as yesterday. Every time I do it I think that the start of the first pitch is harder than 5.7 and I'm usually accused of sandbagging grades. I go up the broken right facing corner laying back a finger crack to a pin with tat on it and then cut straight left across the slab. Is that the way everyone goes or do you go up to the pin on the left directly under the rather dirty slab and then up the slab? I do not use the lower pin on the left o... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Photo
By: Brian When: Sep 5, 2014

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Comments: No helmet!? What if that rock hit you in the head?


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : Fear The Wolf (5.8)
By: Brian When: Sep 1, 2014

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Comments: Thanks. We were pulling it to the right. The bolts are accurate. I can see the bolts in the full res photo in PhotoShop and put the X next to them. It just looks weird because the angle makes everything foreshortened.


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : Fear The Wolf (5.8)
By: Brian When: Aug 21, 2014

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Comments: Do you pull the roof? Where? Go around it to the left? A couple of us were playing on this and think it is considerably harder than 5.8 if you are pulling the roof.
Fear The Wolf
Fear The Wolf



Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6) : Photo
By: Brian When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: Great perspective. Not your usual High E shot.


Location: sara pax : Deep in the woods of Wester... : Photo
By: Brian When: Jul 25, 2014

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Comments: Looks like a miniature version of Reppy's Crack. You're not telling where it is? I'll tell you where to find some fun sport climbing in CT that is not on MP. You show me yours and I'll show you mine. ;-)


Location: CT : Eastern Highlands : Ross Rocks : Party Wall : Devil's Lettuce (5.8)
By: Brian When: Jul 25, 2014

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Comments: Jeff,

Three pitons? The ringed piton under and to the right of the crux overhang and the lost arrow piton above the overhang, kind of hidden. Where is the third?

The pitons are marked in the route photo here: climbri.org/ross.htm


Location: CT : Eastern Highlands : Ross Rocks : Parking Lot Wall : Tincture of Benzoin (5.9 PG13)
By: Brian When: Jul 25, 2014

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Comments: Yup...and an attentive belayer standing close to the cliff with no slack in the rope. If you were to blow it at the second horizontal before placing gear you would deck. But as you said, it shouldn't be a problem for a solid 5.9 leader.

There are a number of good leads at Ross that seldom get led. Maybe Connecticut top-rope mentality or maybe because Nichols chopped the few supplemental bolts needed to make a run-out lead a safe one.


Location: CT : Eastern Highlands : Ross Rocks : North End : Disneyworld (5.7)
By: Brian When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: The next time you see Ken Nichols you can thank him for this.

Ken Nichols
Ken Nichols



Location: CT : Eastern Highlands
By: Brian When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: >>By Devin Kelly
>>Jul 23, 2012
>>Where is ct's first 5.13 sport route in NE connecticut?

On heavily posted private property.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Cathole Mountain : Main Walls : Acid Reign (5.6 X) : Photo
By: Brian When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: Put a bolted anchor in.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom
By: Brian When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: Please note that the link climbri.com has been changed to climbri.org


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Main Wall
By: Brian When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: Please note that the link climbri.com has been changed to climbri.org


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Underdog (5.10a) : Photo
By: Brian When: May 25, 2014

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Comments: Beautiful shot but the chalk does detract from it. I guess it is the "White" Mountains.


Location: CT : Eastern Highlands : Ross Rocks : Party Wall : Photo
By: Brian When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: Mike,

He wins a battle here and there but he is losing the war. Ten years ago there were no bolted climbs in CT. Now they approaching 100 and more are popping up every week. Most of the people who climb with him clip bolts as well and just don't tell him. His days of dictating climbing ethics in CT is dwindling with his age.


Location: CT : Eastern Highlands : Ross Rocks : Party Wall : Photo
By: Brian When: May 20, 2014

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Comments: Next time you see Ken Nichols you can thank him for chopping it. He climbs at Ross frequently. Runs laps on The Crack of Despair.


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