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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Wonderland (5.8)
By: Brian When: Jun 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I do the direct start variation, which does have small pro. You can get some placements with 00 and 0 cams next to each other in a horizontal just before the crux. However, they're below your feet when you are doing the crux move so make sure your belayer is paying attention and doesn't have a bunch of slack in the rope.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Wasp (5.9)
By: Brian When: Jun 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Julie that the beginning moves protect with the smallest nut (4KN) that I carry which adds a bit of spice to the climb.
The second pitch you are describing is actually an old variation called "Stubai To You" and is part of a climb called "Expedition to Nowhere." The second pitch of Wasp is a 5.5. Many people link the two to keep the grade more consistent.
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Location: Eastern States : Gunks in the fall : Photo
By: Brian When: Feb 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice shot but it would have been better if it wasn't so heavily PhotoShopped. A little too vibrant. IMHO.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Wisecrack (5.6)
By: Brian When: Jan 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Regarding pitch 3 - I don't remember any run-outs and it is a fun pitch and only 5.5. Pitch 3 goes up the big right facing corner just left of the Middle Earth/Bombs Away Dream Baby recess. I seem to remember some pins on it under the overhangs.
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Location: CT : Northeast
By: Brian When: Dec 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pal Pocsi,
There are a few well protected routes there. The 5.5 and the 5.8 "Slippery When Wet" on the Parking Lot Wall, the 5.9 "Good Book" around the corner take adequate gear. The 5.8 roof on the Party Wall is leadable but probably PG-13. This is assuming that you are competent/experienced at placing gear. And remember that these are Connecticut ratings. For example the 5.8 crack on the Parking Lot Wall takes great gear but it has to be placed while hanging/jamming in a tenuous posit... more >>
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Location: CT : Northeast : Wolf Rock : Upper Tier : Toe Crack (5.3)
By: Brian When: Dec 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Toe Crack was orginally rated 5.3. Fasulo retro-graded it to 5.6 in his guidebook.
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Location: CT : Northeast : Wolf Rock : Lower Tier : Lil' Abner (5.8 R)
By: Brian When: Dec 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't know where you get the "R" from. You can reach up and place a green Camalot in a pod in the bottom of the crack. If you want to be very careful you can also place a purple one just to the left of the green. Once you clip those that gets you through the crux and then you can easily place bomber gear the rest of the way up.
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Location: CT : Northeast
By: Brian When: Dec 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm suprised that there isn't any mention of, and more climbing at, Ross Rocks in Killingly. There are cliffs there 80 ft high. It is largely frequented by Rhode Islanders but it is in Connecticut. See www.climbri.com for route topos.
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Location: CT : Central CT Traprock : East Peak : Amphitheater : Dol Guldur (5.11 PG13)
By: Brian When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a route that doesn't need a bolt. Getting to the first piece is 5.9. If you can't do that what are you doing leading a 5.11 and a sandbag at that? I'm estatic just to make it up it.
Mobley, This climb is not just a TR. It has been led trad many many times.
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Location: MA : Joe's Rock
By: Brian When: Sep 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: See www.climbri.com for route descriptions for this crag.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Many Happy Returns (5.9+)
By: Brian When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't know much about local ratings but this is an east coast 5.8.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Andrew (5.4 PG13)
By: Brian When: Aug 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The top can be easly reached from the GT ledge with a single rope and judicious use of 2 ft runners. If you are a new leader and getting rope drag just build an anchor.
The description of P3 above is the way many (most?) people do it due to protection issues but it is actually a variation (at least according to the black Williams guidebook). The original route goes right up to a flaky left facing corner with some very old pins and ends up in the same rightward diagonal.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Blistered Toe (5.8)
By: Brian When: Jul 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The direct start is a fun bouldering move with little fingers. There really is no sense in putting in pro until you make the move and get the good hand to the left. I thought it was pretty hard but what Gunks 5.9+ isn't?
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Dis-Mantel (5.10)
By: Brian When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is a 5.10 in both Williams and Swain which I found to be about right and the first bulge is harder than the second "roof" for short people which is rated at 5.8 in Swain. Not that the difference between 5.9 and 5.10 is significant but I think that people who are substantially taller or shorter than average who rate climbs skew the ratings, particularly at the Gunks where many climbs are reach dependent.
5.9 for 5'9" or taller
5.10 for under 5'9"
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Trusty Rifle (5.7)
By: Brian When: Jun 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Read Swain's guidebook versus Williams for this route. It is Swain's route. As mentioned...It starts on the ground at an overhanging offwidth crack and is rated 5.9. Very strenuous.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Tequila Mockingbird (5.6)
By: Brian When: May 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "How could this be 5.6?" you ask. It isn't. Both Williams and Swain rate this 5.7+. At least in my guidebooks.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Beginner's Delight (5.4)
By: Brian When: Apr 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: On pitch 2 the original route starts diagonalling left about twenty feet up. Look for a traverse with good feet. Once you go out about 15 feet you will see a piton clip that and diagonal across the face where you will find a few pitons to clip. This pitch is why it is rated PG. Many beginning leaders go straight up the corner on pitch 2 (better gear). They use slings that are too short putting a 90 degree bend in the rope when the start the traverse resulting in really bad rope drag. If yo... more >>
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Location: International : Photo
By: Brian When: Feb 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Angle is about 45 degrees. Easy climbing but poor protection and lots of loose rocks. Like climbing a slate roof with pebbles on it. There are steel bars in situ at each belay that the guides must have installed. There is an alternative approach to the hut that traverses the cliff but it had snow on it when we were there.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock : Classic Corner (5.8)
By: Brian When: Feb 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought that this was a true 5.8 compared to Red Rock's generally soft ratings. Handren rated it 5.8 in his new guidebook. A few grunty moves. Fun route to do when it is too cold/windy in the canyons.
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Location: International : Europe : Switzerland
By: Brian When: Nov 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: greez,
I was only in Switzerland for two weeks and had no problem finding long moderate trad routes. What about the Engelhorner?
Brian
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: Brian When: Nov 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great shot, Heather!
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Location: CT : Central CT Traprock : Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff... : Wishbone (5.7)
By: Brian When: Nov 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A real grunt-fest through the chimney section. My second tried climbing the face instead and finally gave up and crawled inside the chimney muttering expletives.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Arrow (5.8)
By: Brian When: Oct 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: To the right of the bolt is 5.8. To the left is 5.8 Gunks. ;-) Cheating beta for left move... Bring your right foot up almost directly below the bolt where there is a small foot placement. Mantle off your left hand which is palm down on the obvious hold to your left. Squirm up and reach the crimper with your right hand.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pywiak Dome : House Calls (5.7)
By: Brian When: Jul 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The name of this route is House Calls. Check Reid's guide book "Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows" 3rd edition. The route in his topo that is farthest to the right is House Calls. He Reid rates it a 5.6x although I think "R" is more appropriate. It starts at the manky anchor with a couple of blue slings on it, goes up to one old bolt, and follows the overlaps to the ledge where Z-Tree and The Dike Route finish up. The last pitch up the steep corner is actually the finish to The Dike Route whic... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Roadside Rocks : Roadside Rock : Photo
By: Brian When: Mar 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Love those JT cracks!
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