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Member Since: Sep 27, 2001
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
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Page Improvements = 3
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All 683 | Routes 5 | Areas 5 | Photos 60 | Page Improvments | Comments 158 | Posts 420 | Stars 6 | Ratings 29
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Mt. Willard : Across the Universe (5.10a PG13)
By: Brian When: Jul 9, 2012

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Comments: I don't usually have a problem on a 10a. Either the crux move has some secret hold or sequence that I haven't figured out or it is one of the biggest sandbags in the White Mountains.


Location: NH : White's Ledge
By: Brian When: Jun 13, 2012

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Comments: Anyone know info on the bolted sport routes at the bottom of the cliff to the right of Endeavor?


Location: CT : Central CT : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Carey Corner (5.7)
By: Brian When: Jun 7, 2012

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Comments: I'm not sure where John Peterson got that FA info but it was reported in the 1964 YMC guidebook to be "FA: 1958 J. Reppy and F. Carey." That makes sense since it is called Carey's corner.


Location: CT : Central CT : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Wet Wall (5.6)
By: Brian When: Jun 6, 2012

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Comments: No the Falcon guidebook (Dave Fasulo) has it right. The topo is accurate. It goes straight up the face just to the left of a stepped left facing corner and well to the right of the Knight's Move corner.


Location: CT : Central CT : Pinnacle Mountain : Entertainer Wall : Sunshine (5.9- X)
By: Brian When: Jun 5, 2012

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Comments: FA on TR: Bob Clark June 1980
FA on lead: Chad Hussey, Sam Slater, Ken Nichols, June 1982


Location: CT : Central CT : Pinnacle Mountain : Dream Weaver Wall : Tiptoe (5.9 R)
By: Brian When: Jun 5, 2012

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Comments: It has been freed multiple times. I think that at worst it is a "R" not an "X." (Dave Fasulo has it as an "R" in his guidebook and he is usually conservative on gear ratings.) Although I may have traversed over to the crack on Locomotive Breath for gear. Really fun overhanging start followed by some great face climbing.

FA: Rick Murnane, Bob Connolly, November 1979.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Airy Aria (5.8)
By: Brian When: May 27, 2012

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Comments: Drake, That variation you did was the first pitch, or part of the first pitch, of Carbs and Caffeine. Williams rates it 5.9- in the black edition.


Location: CO : Photo
By: Brian When: May 24, 2012

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Comments: Wow...you really kicked up the vibrance in PhotoShop.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Bonnie's Roof (5.9) : Photo
By: Brian When: May 21, 2012

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Comments: Is that gold Camalot as bad as it looks?


Location: CT : Southeast : High Ledge : Main Wall
By: Brian When: May 1, 2012

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Comments: The rock quality is pretty chossy here. I would be suspect of every gear placement if you are leading.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Solar Flare (5.10-)
By: Brian When: Apr 11, 2012

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Comments: You can almost guarantee stuck ropes on this when rapping especially if you go to the top of the fifth pitch. I had to re-lead three times to get a stuck rope and I was rapping with a single. The route in is not worth climbing beyond the fourth pitch.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Photo
By: Brian When: Apr 2, 2012

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Comments: Photoshopped with the sky selected and the vibrance kicked way up?


Location: Rhode Island : Rockville : Photo
By: Brian When: Feb 27, 2012

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Comments: I agree. Like I said I checked it out and it is not worth it to climb here. I was just trying to correct the claim that it is on DEM land. Where is "Highrocks"? I've never heard of it.


Location: Rhode Island : Rockville : Photo
By: Brian When: Feb 27, 2012

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Comments: I checked out the cliff band near here awhile back. It is on Audubon land according to this more detailed map. However, it is so far in the woods that you would never be noticed.


Long/Ell Pond
Long/Ell Pond



Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Miss Conception (5.10a)
By: Brian When: Feb 2, 2012

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Comments: How can the route Miss Conception be "...just to the right of the route Miss Conception." Do you mean "The Misunderstanding"?


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Halloween. : Halloween (5.12c PG13) : Photo
By: Brian When: Dec 28, 2011

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Comments: According to Whitey... "The crack was climbed in 3 variations, starting on the face just to the left a couple of feet and going up and a little right into the crack. Also starting underneath the overhang with or without using the right facing tier that is on the wall to the left of the start."

He dosen't remember a name.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Halloween. : Halloween (5.12c PG13) : Photo
By: Brian When: Dec 27, 2011

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Comments: I climbed this crack many years ago. I faintly remember it having bomber hands but you may want to tape-up for it.


Location: CT : Southeast : 9 Wall (Feather Ledges) : Photo
By: Brian When: Dec 18, 2011

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Comments: I found it. I had to bring the original hi-res photos into Photoshop and scroll around searching for the bolt.


Location: CT : Southeast : 9 Wall (Feather Ledges) : Photo
By: Brian When: Dec 16, 2011

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Comments: I see that Chestnut Hill, AKA 9wall, AKA Feather Ledges, has been made public. Fun routes. Thanks for the bolts...those who shall remain nameless. One suggestion/observation: there have been a few TR lines bolted as "mixed" climbs here and nearby crags. This is not a criticism of the bolting but it seems kind of silly to have a mixed route on a 40 foot crag. In some cases you literally have to carry one piece of protection to supplement the bolts. I don't think that this is in keeping with... more >>


Location: Rhode Island : Rockville : Deception Boulder
By: Brian When: Dec 15, 2011

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Comments: There are some classic climbing routes on the Audubon land that Ward Smith put up years ago. They are on the bigger cliffs off the trail across the pond. The bolt and piton are probably still there. Unfortunatly you can no longer climb there. The bird watchers don't want any scruffy climbers scaring the birds. :-)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Corona (5.10a)
By: Brian When: Dec 15, 2011

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Comments: "There is a bolted anchor a short distance above the overhang." Can you get to the ground with one rope from this anchor? Looking for descent or pitch length info.


Location: CT : Central CT : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Vanishing Point (5.10a)
By: Brian When: Nov 21, 2011

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Comments: Kevin,

No, I'm referring to the bolts/pins that have been chopped and reappear and then chopped and reappear over the years. YMC being one of them.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pywiak Dome : Zee Tree (5.7)
By: Brian When: Nov 14, 2011

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Comments: Yes it is possible that I, and the person who posted on SuperTopo, were off route. Although it was pretty much straight under where you traverse over to the off-width corner crack. I go to Tuoulumne every other year. Next time I'm there I'll climb the route again just to take a photo (if they are still there). I saw that ASCA replaced the bolts in 2005. I can't believe that they wouldn't have replaced the ones in question so I can only conclude that I was off route. Although I don't think ... more >>


Location: Rhode Island : Snake Den
By: Brian When: Nov 13, 2011

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Comments: Does anyone know anything about the bolt that looks like it is at the start of "Battle of the Bulge." It is one lone bolt that doesn't do any good. Did someone start to bolt this route and quit?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pywiak Dome : Zee Tree (5.7)
By: Brian When: Nov 12, 2011

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Comments: I don't want to get too far down in the weeds as to what they are. I can't tell from the button-head whether they are 1/4" or 5/16", a 1/16 of an inch difference. The point is they are old rusty spinners that should be replaced on a highly travelled route. And as of July 2011 they were there. This is approximately what they look like.

Rusty anchor
Rusty anchor



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