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Member Since: Sep 27, 2001
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,035
Total Points: 600
Last Year: 159
Last 30 Days: 5
27 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 709 | Routes 5 | Areas 5 | Photos 62 | Page Improvements | Comments 165 | Posts 436 | Stars 6 | Ratings 30
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Photo
By: Brian When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: Sounds like a great idea. RMF organizes a clean-up/trail maintenance get together every year. Perhaps some of this reforestation could be incorporated into that. The second crux will be keeping people off the area if you want to move the tree-line closer to the edge of the cliff. Climbers who don't have trad gear and/or don't know how to place it will go back for tree anchors. And in places the rock is pretty fractured for gear anchors even if you have gear. So bolted anchors will be absolu... more >>


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Photo
By: Brian When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: The Metacomet trail goes over the top of the cliff. So there are lots of "tourists" (non-climbers) up there. Putting anchors on top of every climb would reduce foot traffic but it would hardly eliminate it and, as you know, it will never happen. Speaking of erosion, the bottom of the cliff suffers from the same overuse (almost all from climbers). The tree roots at the bottom have been getting more exposed over the years. Probably the only fix for that is to strategically place more rocks as ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : Machete Ridge Area : Dos Equis (5.8 R)
By: Brian When: Sep 2, 2012

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Comments: An "R" rating? I didn't think it was that run-out. Well protected by Pinnacles standards.


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Mount Huntington
By: Brian When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: Ryan,

I agree that Mt Huntington is a great place to climb. I've climbed most of the routes there. Some a few times. Southern Migration, Perennial and even Once is Enough are fun and worth doing. My point is that the MP database assigned "named" and "no name" as "classics." According to MP no one seems to climb these routes and according to the description "no name" has "no pro for the first two pitches" and the "unamed" descent is "ridiculously dangerous." They don't sound like they dese... more >>


Location: CT : Central Valley : Pinnacle Rock : Cracked Wall : Tasmanian Devil (5.10+ R)
By: Brian When: Aug 10, 2012

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Comments: Morgan,
I can't comment specifically on the gear on this climb but, as I commented on "Sunshine" another "freed" climb, by "free" I mean you place maybe one or two pieces of gear and are in ground-fall range for a good portion of the climb. Does that count as a trad lead or is it a free-solo with some placed gear so you can call it a trad lead? Lots of freed climbs were done like that in CT.


Location: CT : Eastern Highlands : 50 Footer
By: Brian When: Jul 24, 2012

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Comments: I always approached it by going down Chaffeeville Road to Bousa Road and parking at the utility line trail then following the utility line trail up the hill and approaching it from the top. There may be a better way but this approach isn't bad.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Pinnacle Rock : Entertainer Wall : Sunshine (5.9- X)
By: Brian When: Jul 10, 2012

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Comments: I can not attest to this particular FA because I wasn't there. Knowing that south face I suspect that the gear was marginal at best. I have been present at some CT FAs and many I saw were not really trad climbs at all. They were free-solos where the climber placed some gear but he was in ground-fall range for the majority of the route. He did it to claim a first ascent and stroke an ego. So the old-timers (Iím an old-timer) can brag about how big their cojones are and that theirs are bigger... more >>


Location: NH : Mt. Willard : Main Slab : Across the Universe (5.10a PG13)
By: Brian When: Jul 10, 2012

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Comments: Yeah but I'm getting old... Maybe I'll bring Whitey up there and he can show me the move. Out of multiple tries, I got it once and it was a desperation move off of a reachy crimp. Once I had a hard-climbing young-gun Lincoln Woods boulderer (Sean Robar) with me and he grabbed the draw after peeling off backwards. Not a 5.9+ for me.


Location: NH : Mt. Willard : Main Slab : Across the Universe (5.10a PG13)
By: Brian When: Jul 10, 2012

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Comments: You say it should be 9+ but you are you the only one who knows how to get over it at 9+? Are you 6'5"? Your prominent NH friend can't get over it first try and many of my friends who are solid 11 climbers also can't get through the move clean. Does that make sense to you? Let me know next time you are going to do it so I can come watch and I will know how do do it at 9+. I know a few local North Conway climbers who agree with me that it is a sandbag.



Location: NH : Mt. Willard : Main Slab : Across the Universe (5.10a PG13)
By: Brian When: Jul 9, 2012

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Comments: I don't usually have a problem on a 10a. Either the crux move has some secret hold or sequence that I haven't figured out or it is one of the biggest sandbags in the White Mountains.


Location: NH : White's Ledge
By: Brian When: Jun 13, 2012

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Comments: Anyone know info on the bolted sport routes at the bottom of the cliff to the right of Endeavor?


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Carey Corner (5.7)
By: Brian When: Jun 7, 2012

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Comments: I'm not sure where John Peterson got that FA info but it was reported in the 1964 YMC guidebook to be "FA: 1958 J. Reppy and F. Carey." That makes sense since it is called Carey's corner.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Wet Wall (5.6)
By: Brian When: Jun 6, 2012

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Comments: No the Falcon guidebook (Dave Fasulo) has it right. The topo is accurate. It goes straight up the face just to the left of a stepped left facing corner and well to the right of the Knight's Move corner.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Pinnacle Rock : Entertainer Wall : Sunshine (5.9- X)
By: Brian When: Jun 5, 2012

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Comments: FA on TR: Bob Clark June 1980
FA on lead: Chad Hussey, Sam Slater, Ken Nichols, June 1982


Location: CT : Central Valley : Pinnacle Rock : Dream Weaver Wall : Tiptoe (5.9 R)
By: Brian When: Jun 5, 2012

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Comments: It has been freed multiple times. I think that at worst it is a "R" not an "X." (Dave Fasulo has it as an "R" in his guidebook and he is usually conservative on gear ratings.) Although I may have traversed over to the crack on Locomotive Breath for gear. Really fun overhanging start followed by some great face climbing.

FA: Rick Murnane, Bob Connolly, November 1979.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Airy Aria (5.8)
By: Brian When: May 27, 2012

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Comments: Drake, That variation you did was the first pitch, or part of the first pitch, of Carbs and Caffeine. Williams rates it 5.9- in the black edition.


Location: CO : Photo
By: Brian When: May 24, 2012

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Comments: Wow...you really kicked up the vibrance in PhotoShop.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Bonnie's Roof (5.9) : Photo
By: Brian When: May 21, 2012

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Comments: Is that gold Camalot as bad as it looks?


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : High Ledge : Main Wall
By: Brian When: May 1, 2012

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Comments: The rock quality is pretty chossy here. I would be suspect of every gear placement if you are leading.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Solar Flare (5.10-)
By: Brian When: Apr 11, 2012

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Comments: You can almost guarantee stuck ropes on this when rapping especially if you go to the top of the fifth pitch. I had to re-lead three times to get a stuck rope and I was rapping with a single. The route in is not worth climbing beyond the fourth pitch.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Photo
By: Brian When: Apr 2, 2012

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Comments: Photoshopped with the sky selected and the vibrance kicked way up?


Location: Rhode Island : Rockville : Photo
By: Brian When: Feb 27, 2012

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Comments: I agree. Like I said I checked it out and it is not worth it to climb here. I was just trying to correct the claim that it is on DEM land. Where is "Highrocks"? I've never heard of it.


Location: Rhode Island : Rockville : Photo
By: Brian When: Feb 27, 2012

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Comments: I checked out the cliff band near here awhile back. It is on Audubon land according to this more detailed map. However, it is so far in the woods that you would never be noticed.


Long/Ell Pond
Long/Ell Pond



Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Miss Conception (5.10a)
By: Brian When: Feb 2, 2012

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Comments: How can the route Miss Conception be "...just to the right of the route Miss Conception." Do you mean "The Misunderstanding"?


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Halloween. : Halloween (5.12c PG13) : Photo
By: Brian When: Dec 28, 2011

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Comments: According to Whitey... "The crack was climbed in 3 variations, starting on the face just to the left a couple of feet and going up and a little right into the crack. Also starting underneath the overhang with or without using the right facing tier that is on the wall to the left of the start."

He dosen't remember a name.


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