Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Eiger summit


Member Since: Sep 27, 2001
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Brian


Point Rank: # 1,024
Total Points: 626
Last Year: 152
Last 30 Days: 0
29 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brian been climbing?










Contributions


All 740 | Routes 5 | Areas 5 | Photos 66 | Page Improvements | Comments 171 | Posts 456 | Stars 6 | Ratings 31
Page 5 of 30.  <<First   <Prev   3  4  5  6  7   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CT : Eastern Highlands : Ross Rocks : Party Wall : Photo
By: Brian When: May 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Next time you see Ken Nichols you can thank him for chopping it. He climbs at Ross frequently. Runs laps on The Crack of Despair.


Location: CT : Eastern Highlands : Ross Rocks : Party Wall : Unknown 5.6 (5.6) : Photo
By: Brian When: May 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Yup, that's it.


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
By: Brian When: May 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: It is not marked on the photos. It is way left (north) of Shape Shifter. Not on main wall. It is the roof to the left of Trad Crack and Bolt and Jolt. Newly bolted.

Chatfield-Roof
Chatfield-Roof



Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
By: Brian When: May 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: What do you figure the rating is on the new bolted route over the roof to the left of Trad Crack? I did it many years ago on top-rope but not recently. There was a pretty good chunk of rock pulled off right on the edge of the roof about ten years ago.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Alderfer/Three Sisters Park : Photo
By: Brian When: May 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The elk is thinking, "that is one big turtle."


Location: Rhode Island : Rome Point
By: Brian When: Apr 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Isn't all bouldering contrived Jeff? ;-) Boulder #2 is much bigger and better than #1. Neither is exactly a destination worth traveling for.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Brian When: Apr 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: If any route needs a separate rappel route from the climbing route this is the route. It would speed things up considerably and eliminate cluster fuchs at the belays with multiple parties going up and going down. Turn this into a two-lane highway and it will be more enjoyable for everyone.


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
By: Brian When: Mar 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Ben,

I can't think of anyplace where you would need more than a couple of 20 ft lengths of webbing or >50 ft length of static rope except maybe for the easy slab (Super Slab). There are trees close to the top of the cliff just about everywhere. Some sport routes have bolted anchors that are down aways and out of reach from the top without ropeing up. Have fun.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - Center : The Proposal (5.12a) : Photo
By: Brian When: Mar 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Great to see a helmet in a photo for a change. Smart girl.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Guanica (5.8)
By: Brian When: Feb 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: "Location

Chimney/cave left of "Limbomainac", "Resume Builder", and "Unemployment Line"."

Facing the wall, isn't this to the right of Limbomainac? Or maybe I didn't climb Limbomanianc and something else instead. Anyway Guanica is a fun route.


Location: VT : * Vermont Ice Climbing : Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 13 - The South Wall Area : Blue Room (WI3-4)
By: Brian When: Jan 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Yup...I agree. It is almost always grade 4.


Location: Brian : CCK : Photo
By: Brian When: Jan 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Madagascar?? It is CCK at the Gunks.


Location: MA : Mt. Madison
By: Brian When: Jan 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Warrants an entry? Boulderers enter in every little pebble in the country, so by their standards this IS a mountain. Put some bolts on it, and you'll have people lining up to climb it. :-)


Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Winter Wall : Mississippi Burning (5.12c) : Photo
By: Brian When: Jan 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Impressive teres major!


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
By: Brian When: Dec 31, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Morgan, I guess I didn't get the tongue-in-cheek. Don't worry I never take these debates too seriously unless it involves a safety issue. It's just the rather silly pursuit of climbing up a rock.


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
By: Brian When: Dec 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Morgan,
Calling top-roping aid climbing is not in keeping with the generally accepted definition of aid climbing. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aid_clim... Under your definition you could call hang-doging on a rope while red pointing a route aid climbing. I would suspect that most of the bolted lines here were top-roped at one time or another and just not recorded anywhere. For example, I know that the Bloody Beetroots arete was top-roped back in the late 80s way before it was bolted. Non... more >>


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
By: Brian When: Dec 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: There are a few climbs here that were previously done on top-rope, e.g. Shape Shifter, and the first lead (after bolting) is listed as an "FFA." An FFA has always referred to a climb that was done with aid and when freed it was referred to as an FFA. Top-roping is free climbing so shouldn't the sport lead be called something like "first lead" or "FA (lead)" or something like that? Not a big deal but the nomenclature may be confused for a previous aid climb.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ants' Line (5.9) : Photo
By: Brian When: Dec 26, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Yeah, great shot of the "hidden hold" all chalked up above the climber's face.


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : The Bloody Beetroots (5.11a)
By: Brian When: Dec 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: >>"-the spline on the line thing... not once in 20 years of craggin have I ever heard of a draw coming unclipped besides a backclip."

Mike, You got to admit that your weekend cragging for 20 years is hardly a statistically significant sample. The next time I see you I'll demonstrate how it can come unclipped. Rare...sure...but why not avoid the possibility by simply orienting your biners? I can send you a bunch of links from reputable sources that all say not to orie... more >>


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : The Bloody Beetroots (5.11a)
By: Brian When: Dec 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Nate,

I'm sorry if I offended you but no matter if you can walk up 5.13s or not they were still incorrectly placed draws and potentially dangerous. You don't have to make a video, proper biner gate orientation is mentioned in every sport climbing 101 book and video already.

Brian


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : The Bloody Beetroots (5.11a)
By: Brian When: Dec 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Morgan, I think it is height dependent to reach the jug above the heel hook. For me, 5'11" it felt no harder and very similar to Dat Mantel (5.10b) at the Gunks. Maybe I was just having a low-gravity day.


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : The Bloody Beetroots (5.11a)
By: Brian When: Dec 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: In the video linked above all of the draws are facing the wrong way. "Spine towards the line" is basic sport climbing knowledge. The climber is to the right of the draws the whole way up and the gates are facing him. I don't mean to embarrass anyone but this should be pointed out so new climbers don't replicate it.


Location: cassondra : Red Rock : Photo
By: Brian When: Dec 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Where is this route? Is it a route. I never heard (pun) of it.


Location: MA : Joe's Rock
By: Brian When: Dec 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The bolts just disappeared in 2002. No known reason. Will you pay for the bolts and hangers to replace them? If so, let me know and I'll replace the bolts.

climbri.org/joes.htm


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof : Ladies & Gentlemen (5.9)
By: Brian When: Oct 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: >>"Moves to get above the bolt are 5.8+ or 5.9. And then I backed off, after 20 minutes of trying to figure out a foot sequence I actually believed in. It was cold, and my rubber wasn't sticking reliably, but still.... I wouldn't recommend this unless you're comfortable on 5.10 slab.">>

"...comfortable on 5.10 slab"?? Of course everyone's perception of a route is unique to their strengths and weaknesses but I think you are going to unnecessar... more >>


Page 5 of 30.  <<First   <Prev   3  4  5  6  7   Next>   Last>>