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Member Since: Sep 27, 2001
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,036
Total Points: 586
Last Year: 161
Last 30 Days: 10
26 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brian been climbing?










Contributions


All 694 | Routes 5 | Areas 5 | Photos 60 | Page Improvments | Comments 161 | Posts 428 | Stars 6 | Ratings 29
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ants' Line (5.9) : Photo
By: Brian When: Dec 26, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, great shot of the "hidden hold" all chalked up above the climber's face.


Location: CT : Southeast : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : The Bloody Beetroots (5.11a)
By: Brian When: Dec 12, 2013

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Comments: >>"-the spline on the line thing... not once in 20 years of craggin have I ever heard of a draw coming unclipped besides a backclip."

Mike, You got to admit that your weekend cragging for 20 years is hardly a statistically significant sample. The next time I see you I'll demonstrate how it can come unclipped. Rare...sure...but why not avoid the possibility by simply orienting your biners? I can send you a bunch of links from reputable sources that all say not to orie... more >>


Location: CT : Southeast : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : The Bloody Beetroots (5.11a)
By: Brian When: Dec 11, 2013

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Comments: Nate,

I'm sorry if I offended you but no matter if you can walk up 5.13s or not they were still incorrectly placed draws and potentially dangerous. You don't have to make a video, proper biner gate orientation is mentioned in every sport climbing 101 book and video already.

Brian


Location: CT : Southeast : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : The Bloody Beetroots (5.11a)
By: Brian When: Dec 11, 2013

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Comments: Morgan, I think it is height dependent to reach the jug above the heel hook. For me, 5'11" it felt no harder and very similar to Dat Mantel (5.10b) at the Gunks. Maybe I was just having a low-gravity day.


Location: CT : Southeast : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : The Bloody Beetroots (5.11a)
By: Brian When: Dec 10, 2013

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Comments: In the video linked above all of the draws are facing the wrong way. "Spine towards the line" is basic sport climbing knowledge. The climber is to the right of the draws the whole way up and the gates are facing him. I don't mean to embarrass anyone but this should be pointed out so new climbers don't replicate it.


Location: cassondra : Red Rock : Photo
By: Brian When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: Where is this route? Is it a route. I never heard (pun) of it.


Location: MA : Joe's Rock
By: Brian When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: The bolts just disappeared in 2002. No known reason. Will you pay for the bolts and hangers to replace them? If so, let me know and I'll replace the bolts.

www.climbri.org/joes.htm


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof : Ladies & Gentlemen (5.9)
By: Brian When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: >>"Moves to get above the bolt are 5.8+ or 5.9. And then I backed off, after 20 minutes of trying to figure out a foot sequence I actually believed in. It was cold, and my rubber wasn't sticking reliably, but still.... I wouldn't recommend this unless you're comfortable on 5.10 slab.">>

"...comfortable on 5.10 slab"?? Of course everyone's perception of a route is unique to their strengths and weaknesses but I think you are going to unnecessar... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : ... : Photo
By: Brian When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: Ripped!


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Upper Refuse (5.5) : Photo
By: Brian When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: I don't know if it is Upper Refuse or not but the angle of the photo is not tweaked. You can tell by the angle of the ropes hanging straight down. If the angle was tweaked to make it look steeper the ropes would be touching the rock. Also the gear on his harness is hanging straight down. Both are dead giveaways of a photo that was not angled to look steeper.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Sundance (5.6)
By: Brian When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: If you look at Williams' and Swain's guidebooks these routes are distinctly different. They do not start at the same place. I've climbed here a couple of times and I suspect that I, and probably others, start up Sundance and finish up Moondance. I'm on something because there are pitons that I follow. Not that it matters, it is a fun romp away from the crowds and a great place to have lunch under the pine tree on top.


Location: CT : Central CT : Rattlesnake Mountain : Rattlesnake Cliff : Slip Knot (5.9-)
By: Brian When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: There is a variation that is frequently done that goes straight up through the notch in the roof instead of traversing at the arete and up. It is about a grade harder.

BTW...Slip Knot was originally rated 5.8.


Location: CT : Southeast : Lantern Hill : Black Beard (5.7)
By: Brian When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: "...at least pg gear..." Yup...this lead is about as "G" as they come. You can plug gear in prodigiously along the entire route including up the top arÍte. It may be a little hard for new 5.7 leaders to place gear (one-handed stances) but it takes bomber gear if you are competent at placing it.


Location: Rhode Island
By: Brian When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: Bradley,

The only place I know of that fits that description is the limestone quarry off of RT 146 and Wilbur Road in Lincoln. It is an active quarry and you will probably get arrested. If you know of another place I'd love to hear about it.
Brian

>>bradley white
>>Jul 28, 2013

>I have heard about a quarry near Providence that people dive off of into the water from much height. The walls are supposed to be about seventy feet ... more >>


Location: CT : Northwest : St. John's Ledges
By: Brian When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: If it is state land commercial guiding needs DEEP written permission. I don't believe that St John's Ledges is on state land.

CT DEEP Regulations...

(h) Commercial restrictions.The use of state park or forest lands or any improvements thereon for private gain or commercial purposes is prohibited, except by concessionaires or vendors with written permission of the Commissioner, or the Commissionerís designee, or by Special Use License issued by the Department of Environmental Protection.


Location: International : Europe : Switzerland : Eiger
By: Brian When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: There is only one "classic" route on the north face, the 1938 route. I have beta on the Nord Pilar, (North Pillar) if that interests you.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moby Grape (5.8)
By: Brian When: Jun 30, 2013

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Comments: If you do the first pitch variation be aware that the rock quality is less than good in a few places which is inconsistent with the rest of the route. There was a significant rock fall on the original start in 2009 injuring the climber.


Location: MA : Bunyan Mountain
By: Brian When: Jun 22, 2013

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Comments: It has been reported to me that the access from Bunyan Road is not an option. The landowner has been leaving notes on the windshields of people parking there, so please do not park there. If you can figure out how to get access from the top/back of the cliff via the former state hospital property, then please let me know. According to plat map lines on Google, the land is owned by whoever owns the former hospital property.


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Mount Huntington
By: Brian When: Jun 22, 2013

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Comments: Once is Enough (OIE) isn't anywhere near Perennial and Southern Migration. You have to split off the trail to the left a considerable way before you get to the base of those routes. It is actually a shorter approach. You can't see the first bolt on OIE until you climb up and around a corner. The route is fun except it is a bit convoluted in that you are climbing mostly 5.7 until you get to a headwall with one 5.10d move followed by a bit of 5.9. It is out of character with the rest of the r... more >>


Location: CT : Southeast : High Ledge : Main Wall : The Roof (5.8)
By: Brian When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: Sorry Keith but you did not get the FA. This has been led and climbed many years before your lead. It has always been rated 5.8. Rock quality is suspect.


Location: NH : Owl's Head Cliff (Oliverian...
By: Brian When: Jun 13, 2013

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Comments: There are topos of many of the routes in Stewart Green's "Rock Climbing New England." I revisited the cliff a year ago and there was a significant rock fall path that took out some good size trees so you want to be careful.


Location: NH : Rumney : Photo
By: Brian When: Jun 11, 2013

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Comments: Yup...Burro is used to distinquish them from a donkey by size just as a pony is distinquished from a horse by size even though they are both Equus ferus caballus.


Location: NH : Rumney : Photo
By: Brian When: Jun 11, 2013

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Comments: It's actually a burro.


Location: MA : Bunyan Mountain
By: Brian When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: >>It's on private property and can not be accessed legally. This area should not have been posted on TMP.

I climbed there with permission of the landowner years ago. Did you ask? There is a pretty well-worn hiking trail across the top, so people obviously access the property. Your local crag?


Location: MA : Bunyan Mountain
By: Brian When: May 25, 2013

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Comments: I'm not sure of the access issues at this time. I've only gone in with Ken Nichols who has a key to the gate off Macomber Road. I haven't been there lately. I heard that you can walk in via Bunyan Road, but you have to cross someone's land, so you have to ask permission.


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