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Eiger summit


Member Since: Sep 27, 2001
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,031
Total Points: 606
Last Year: 165
Last 30 Days: 11
28 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brian been climbing?










Contributions


All 717 | Routes 5 | Areas 5 | Photos 63 | Page Improvements | Comments 166 | Posts 442 | Stars 6 | Ratings 30
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - Center : The Proposal (5.12a) : Photo
By: Brian When: Mar 11, 2014

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Comments: Great to see a helmet in a photo for a change. Smart girl.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Guanica (5.8)
By: Brian When: Feb 15, 2014

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Comments: "Location

Chimney/cave left of "Limbomainac", "Resume Builder", and "Unemployment Line"."

Facing the wall, isn't this to the right of Limbomainac? Or maybe I didn't climb Limbomanianc and something else instead. Anyway Guanica is a fun route.


Location: VT : Vermont Ice Climbing : Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 13 - The South Wall Area : Blue Room (WI3-4)
By: Brian When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: Yup...I agree. It is almost always grade 4.


Location: Brian : CCK : Photo
By: Brian When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: Madagascar?? It is CCK at the Gunks.


Location: MA : Mt. Madison
By: Brian When: Jan 16, 2014

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Comments: Warrants an entry? Boulderers enter in every little pebble in the country, so by their standards this IS a mountain. Put some bolts on it, and you'll have people lining up to climb it. :-)


Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Winter Wall : Mississippi Burning (5.12c) : Photo
By: Brian When: Jan 10, 2014

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Comments: Impressive teres major!


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
By: Brian When: Dec 31, 2013

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Comments: Morgan, I guess I didn't get the tongue-in-cheek. Don't worry I never take these debates too seriously unless it involves a safety issue. It's just the rather silly pursuit of climbing up a rock.


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
By: Brian When: Dec 30, 2013

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Comments: Morgan,
Calling top-roping aid climbing is not in keeping with the generally accepted definition of aid climbing. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aid_clim... Under your definition you could call hang-doging on a rope while red pointing a route aid climbing. I would suspect that most of the bolted lines here were top-roped at one time or another and just not recorded anywhere. For example, I know that the Bloody Beetroots arete was top-roped back in the late 80s way before it was bolted. Non... more >>


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
By: Brian When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: There are a few climbs here that were previously done on top-rope, e.g. Shape Shifter, and the first lead (after bolting) is listed as an "FFA." An FFA has always referred to a climb that was done with aid and when freed it was referred to as an FFA. Top-roping is free climbing so shouldn't the sport lead be called something like "first lead" or "FA (lead)" or something like that? Not a big deal but the nomenclature may be confused for a previous aid climb.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ants' Line (5.9) : Photo
By: Brian When: Dec 26, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, great shot of the "hidden hold" all chalked up above the climber's face.


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : The Bloody Beetroots (5.11a)
By: Brian When: Dec 12, 2013

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Comments: >>"-the spline on the line thing... not once in 20 years of craggin have I ever heard of a draw coming unclipped besides a backclip."

Mike, You got to admit that your weekend cragging for 20 years is hardly a statistically significant sample. The next time I see you I'll demonstrate how it can come unclipped. Rare...sure...but why not avoid the possibility by simply orienting your biners? I can send you a bunch of links from reputable sources that all say not to orie... more >>


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : The Bloody Beetroots (5.11a)
By: Brian When: Dec 11, 2013

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Comments: Nate,

I'm sorry if I offended you but no matter if you can walk up 5.13s or not they were still incorrectly placed draws and potentially dangerous. You don't have to make a video, proper biner gate orientation is mentioned in every sport climbing 101 book and video already.

Brian


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : The Bloody Beetroots (5.11a)
By: Brian When: Dec 11, 2013

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Comments: Morgan, I think it is height dependent to reach the jug above the heel hook. For me, 5'11" it felt no harder and very similar to Dat Mantel (5.10b) at the Gunks. Maybe I was just having a low-gravity day.


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : The Bloody Beetroots (5.11a)
By: Brian When: Dec 10, 2013

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Comments: In the video linked above all of the draws are facing the wrong way. "Spine towards the line" is basic sport climbing knowledge. The climber is to the right of the draws the whole way up and the gates are facing him. I don't mean to embarrass anyone but this should be pointed out so new climbers don't replicate it.


Location: cassondra : Red Rock : Photo
By: Brian When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: Where is this route? Is it a route. I never heard (pun) of it.


Location: MA : Joe's Rock
By: Brian When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: The bolts just disappeared in 2002. No known reason. Will you pay for the bolts and hangers to replace them? If so, let me know and I'll replace the bolts.

climbri.org/joes.htm


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof : Ladies & Gentlemen (5.9)
By: Brian When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: >>"Moves to get above the bolt are 5.8+ or 5.9. And then I backed off, after 20 minutes of trying to figure out a foot sequence I actually believed in. It was cold, and my rubber wasn't sticking reliably, but still.... I wouldn't recommend this unless you're comfortable on 5.10 slab.">>

"...comfortable on 5.10 slab"?? Of course everyone's perception of a route is unique to their strengths and weaknesses but I think you are going to unnecessar... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : ... : Photo
By: Brian When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: Ripped!


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Upper Refuse (5.5) : Photo
By: Brian When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: I don't know if it is Upper Refuse or not but the angle of the photo is not tweaked. You can tell by the angle of the ropes hanging straight down. If the angle was tweaked to make it look steeper the ropes would be touching the rock. Also the gear on his harness is hanging straight down. Both are dead giveaways of a photo that was not angled to look steeper.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Sundance (5.6)
By: Brian When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: If you look at Williams' and Swain's guidebooks these routes are distinctly different. They do not start at the same place. I've climbed here a couple of times and I suspect that I, and probably others, start up Sundance and finish up Moondance. I'm on something because there are pitons that I follow. Not that it matters, it is a fun romp away from the crowds and a great place to have lunch under the pine tree on top.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Rattlesnake Mountain : Rattlesnake Cliff : Slip Knot (5.9-)
By: Brian When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: There is a variation that is frequently done that goes straight up through the notch in the roof instead of traversing at the arete and up. It is about a grade harder.

BTW...Slip Knot was originally rated 5.8.


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Lantern Hill : Black Beard (5.7)
By: Brian When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: "...at least pg gear..." Yup...this lead is about as "G" as they come. You can plug gear in prodigiously along the entire route including up the top arÍte. It may be a little hard for new 5.7 leaders to place gear (one-handed stances) but it takes bomber gear if you are competent at placing it.


Location: Rhode Island
By: Brian When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: Bradley,

The only place I know of that fits that description is the limestone quarry off of RT 146 and Wilbur Road in Lincoln. It is an active quarry and you will probably get arrested. If you know of another place I'd love to hear about it.
Brian

>>bradley white
>>Jul 28, 2013

>I have heard about a quarry near Providence that people dive off of into the water from much height. The walls are supposed to be about seventy feet ... more >>


Location: CT : Western Highlands : St. John's Ledges
By: Brian When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: If it is state land commercial guiding needs DEEP written permission. I don't believe that St John's Ledges is on state land.

CT DEEP Regulations...

(h) Commercial restrictions.The use of state park or forest lands or any improvements thereon for private gain or commercial purposes is prohibited, except by concessionaires or vendors with written permission of the Commissioner, or the Commissionerís designee, or by Special Use License issued by the Department of Environmental Protection.


Location: International : Europe : Switzerland : Eiger
By: Brian When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: There is only one "classic" route on the north face, the 1938 route. I have beta on the Nord Pilar, (North Pillar) if that interests you.


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