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Eiger summit


Member Since: Sep 27, 2001
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Point Rank: # 1,062
Total Points: 638
Last Year: 80
Last 30 Days: 3
30 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 780 | Routes 5 | Areas 5 | Photos 67 | Page Improvements | Comments 178 | Posts 487 | Stars 6 | Ratings 32
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CT : Eastern Highlands : Ross Rocks : Parking Lot Wall : Tincture of Benzoin (5.9 PG13)
By: Brian When: Jul 25, 2014

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Comments: Yup...and an attentive belayer standing close to the cliff with no slack in the rope. If you were to blow it at the second horizontal before placing gear you would deck. But as you said, it shouldn't be a problem for a solid 5.9 leader.

There are a number of good leads at Ross that seldom get led. Maybe Connecticut top-rope mentality or maybe because Nichols chopped the few supplemental bolts needed to make a run-out lead a safe one.


Location: CT : Eastern Highlands : Ross Rocks : North End : Disneyworld (5.7)
By: Brian When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: The next time you see Ken Nichols you can thank him for this.

Ken Nichols
Ken Nichols



Location: CT : Eastern Highlands
By: Brian When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: >>By Devin Kelly
>>Jul 23, 2012
>>Where is ct's first 5.13 sport route in NE connecticut?

On heavily posted private property.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Cathole Mountain : Main Walls : Acid Reign (5.6 X) : Photo
By: Brian When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: Put a bolted anchor in.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom
By: Brian When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: Please note that the link climbri.com has been changed to climbri.org


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Main Wall
By: Brian When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: Please note that the link climbri.com has been changed to climbri.org


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Underdog (5.10a) : Photo
By: Brian When: May 25, 2014

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Comments: Beautiful shot but the chalk does detract from it. I guess it is the "White" Mountains.


Location: CT : Eastern Highlands : Ross Rocks : Party Wall : Photo
By: Brian When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: Mike,

He wins a battle here and there but he is losing the war. Ten years ago there were no bolted climbs in CT. Now they approaching 100 and more are popping up every week. Most of the people who climb with him clip bolts as well and just don't tell him. His days of dictating climbing ethics in CT is dwindling with his age.


Location: CT : Eastern Highlands : Ross Rocks : Party Wall : Photo
By: Brian When: May 20, 2014

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Comments: Next time you see Ken Nichols you can thank him for chopping it. He climbs at Ross frequently. Runs laps on The Crack of Despair.


Location: CT : Eastern Highlands : Ross Rocks : Party Wall : Unknown 5.6 (5.6) : Photo
By: Brian When: May 20, 2014

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Comments: Yup, that's it.


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
By: Brian When: May 20, 2014

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Comments: It is not marked on the photos. It is way left (north) of Shape Shifter. Not on main wall. It is the roof to the left of Trad Crack and Bolt and Jolt. Newly bolted.

Chatfield-Roof
Chatfield-Roof



Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
By: Brian When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: What do you figure the rating is on the new bolted route over the roof to the left of Trad Crack? I did it many years ago on top-rope but not recently. There was a pretty good chunk of rock pulled off right on the edge of the roof about ten years ago.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Alderfer/Three Sisters Park : Photo
By: Brian When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: The elk is thinking, "that is one big turtle."


Location: Rhode Island : Rome Point
By: Brian When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: Isn't all bouldering contrived Jeff? ;-) Boulder #2 is much bigger and better than #1. Neither is exactly a destination worth traveling for.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Brian When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: If any route needs a separate rappel route from the climbing route this is the route. It would speed things up considerably and eliminate cluster fuchs at the belays with multiple parties going up and going down. Turn this into a two-lane highway and it will be more enjoyable for everyone.


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
By: Brian When: Mar 30, 2014

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Comments: Ben,

I can't think of anyplace where you would need more than a couple of 20 ft lengths of webbing or >50 ft length of static rope except maybe for the easy slab (Super Slab). There are trees close to the top of the cliff just about everywhere. Some sport routes have bolted anchors that are down aways and out of reach from the top without ropeing up. Have fun.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - Center : The Proposal (5.12a) : Photo
By: Brian When: Mar 11, 2014

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Comments: Great to see a helmet in a photo for a change. Smart girl.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Guanica (5.8)
By: Brian When: Feb 15, 2014

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Comments: "Location

Chimney/cave left of "Limbomainac", "Resume Builder", and "Unemployment Line"."

Facing the wall, isn't this to the right of Limbomainac? Or maybe I didn't climb Limbomanianc and something else instead. Anyway Guanica is a fun route.


Location: VT : * Vermont Ice Climbing : Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 13 - The South Wall Area : Blue Room (WI3-4)
By: Brian When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: Yup...I agree. It is almost always grade 4.


Location: Brian : CCK : Photo
By: Brian When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: Madagascar?? It is CCK at the Gunks.


Location: MA : Mt. Madison
By: Brian When: Jan 16, 2014

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Comments: Warrants an entry? Boulderers enter in every little pebble in the country, so by their standards this IS a mountain. Put some bolts on it, and you'll have people lining up to climb it. :-)


Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Winter Wall : Mississippi Burning (5.12c) : Photo
By: Brian When: Jan 10, 2014

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Comments: Impressive teres major!


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
By: Brian When: Dec 31, 2013

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Comments: Morgan, I guess I didn't get the tongue-in-cheek. Don't worry I never take these debates too seriously unless it involves a safety issue. It's just the rather silly pursuit of climbing up a rock.


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
By: Brian When: Dec 30, 2013

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Comments: Morgan,
Calling top-roping aid climbing is not in keeping with the generally accepted definition of aid climbing. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aid_clim... Under your definition you could call hang-doging on a rope while red pointing a route aid climbing. I would suspect that most of the bolted lines here were top-roped at one time or another and just not recorded anywhere. For example, I know that the Bloody Beetroots arete was top-roped back in the late 80s way before it was bolted. Non... more >>


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
By: Brian When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: There are a few climbs here that were previously done on top-rope, e.g. Shape Shifter, and the first lead (after bolting) is listed as an "FFA." An FFA has always referred to a climb that was done with aid and when freed it was referred to as an FFA. Top-roping is free climbing so shouldn't the sport lead be called something like "first lead" or "FA (lead)" or something like that? Not a big deal but the nomenclature may be confused for a previous aid climb.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First... more >>


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