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Just some guy having fun climbing. Tourist Trap WI...


Member Since: Dec 31, 2005
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
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Brian Treanor
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Point Rank: # 8,028
Total Points: 41
Last Year: 6
Last 30 Days: 4
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 140 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 26 | Posts 20 | Stars 60 | Ratings 32
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Dinosaur's Foot : Pocket Full of Cryptonite (5.12a)
By: Brian Treanor When: Jul 26, 2015

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Comments: This is a really fun route; but it is basically a boulder problem into substantially easier climbing.

This route seems easier than Andrology. There was zero chalk on this past the starting hold, while Andrology is, apparently, TRed to submission by 99% of the folks visiting the crag. So, even though Andrology has the benefit of a "roadmap" of chalk for the onsight, Cryptonite seemed easier overall. Having done both, it seems to me Andrology is a step up. So if Cryptonite is 12a, Andro... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Andrology (5.11d)
By: Brian Treanor When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: What a fun route. Excellent movement. The hollow rock around the fourth bolt is, I admit, concerning; however, I'm not sure how one would fix that other than sinking in some massive 3/4 inch thick, 12 inch long anchor like some of the odd anchors I've seen in Europe. The whole area around the bolt rings hollow, so simply moving the (normal) bolt a little be left or right isn't going to do anything. The climbing to the fifth bolt is, as others have pointed out, not very hard compared to... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Just in Time (5.11b/c)
By: Brian Treanor When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: A couple of days ago I broke a really good right hand sidepull that I had used to clip (perhaps the 7th bolt? Not exactly sure). Fortunately, the hold did not fully pull out, and so I saved the OS; however, it was moving so much, and so clearly a tempting hold to clip from, that I checked it on the lower, and it popped out with a fairly gentle wiggle. Ran the route again and while the missing hold does make that clip substantially more taxing, I don't think it really changes the grade.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Frisky Lady (5.12a/b)
By: Brian Treanor When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: Fun movement on this route. I'm only 5'9", so this definitely goes for those under 6 feet. In fact, I didn't even think reaching the flake around 50' was the crux of the route (it was "a" crux but not the hardest bit). No, the rock is not perfect, especially compared to other place around Estes; but this place is close, easy access, and fun for a really quick hit. Thanks to the developers.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Cardinal Pinnacle : Photo
By: Brian Treanor When: Mar 28, 2015

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Comments: Sadly, it's been awhile since Sabrina looked that nice. The drought years have not been kind to some of the Eastside lakes.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Java Wall : Caffeine (5.11a)
By: Brian Treanor When: Feb 21, 2015

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Comments: Was working Kona today (with spectacular lack of success). Looking over to the anchors on Caffeine caused me to shudder. Two nice guys and a girl has been top roping it just before I got on Kona (and they were top roping, properly, of slings, not the hooks). But once their slings were off the hooks I could see how bad they were. Obviously I was on a different route, so I was looking from several feet to the left, but I don't think I would top-rope off these, slings or no, and I know for sure I w... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12)
By: Brian Treanor When: May 7, 2013

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Comments: This route is very, very, very good. Great climbing. Good rock. The beta on this page is pretty well spot on. Two fathers with full time jobs, one (me) middle aged, made the approach in a very reasonable 1:45 without bivy gear. 8 hours on route, 1:30 rapping with a single 70m. Almost onsight: my partner Drew took only one very minor fall, and I took a couple. The gear list is good, though we would recommend taking the #3 Camalot; we brought it and used it several times (though I'... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : Hang 'Em High (5.12a/b)
By: Brian Treanor When: Mar 8, 2013

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Comments: I was back on this today (3/7/13) for the first time an a couple of years. Still hard! The reason for this post is to make a few comments:

(1) I think some of the edges around the pin have deteriorated since my last voyage up Hang 'em High. The crux is still the area from the third bolt up to the juggy flakes at top (I'm 5'9" and it seemed like another 2-3 inches of reach would have made a world of difference reaching the good sidepull above the 3rd bolt). However, now the area getting from the... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon and Tioga... : Lee Vining Ice : Heel-Toe Wall : Heel-Toe, Ramp Start (WI4 M6)
By: Brian Treanor When: Feb 10, 2013

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Comments: I've always been confused by this description (here, and by others in person). My take has been that the actual "Heel Toe" finishes up to the right, by throwing a heel hook and then manteling onto the "diving board" feature. In my opinion, this is the defining move of the Heel Toe route; it's full value to do that move with boots, crampons, and tools, especially when you find the top of the top of the "diving board" covered in snow (either ice or dry rock being preferable).

The left ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Wonderland Valley : ... : Trembling Toes (5.9)
By: Brian Treanor When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: Did this today with my kids. It's worth doing once (barely). Some really junky rock here. At least it's well-protected. If you've got a helmet, give it to your belayer. My kids, at least, liked it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : OZ Area : OZ : Emerald City : Snake Book (5.10d)
By: Brian Treanor When: Dec 21, 2012

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Comments: The stemming on this is definitely harder than Coarse and Buggy and definitely goes on for longer.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Wonderland Valley : ... : Gunslinger (5.12b/c)
By: Brian Treanor When: Dec 8, 2012

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Comments: So, does anyone know if the belay bolts have been replaced? I'm thinking of heading out there next weekend. Unless I hear otherwise I guess I'll bring a long cordalette to equalize the bad belay with protection bolts beneath it, but it would be nice to know. I'd bring a hand drill to replace 'em but, frankly, I'm worried I botch it. Been climbing close to 30 years, but haven't been 'clinic-ed' on pulling bolts and re-drilling in the same holes, and don't want to mess up Bob and Scott's line by l... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Ghetto Wall : Suburban Struggle (5.11a/b)
By: Brian Treanor When: Nov 11, 2012

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Comments: I think your red line for Urban Struggle is off. The original route busts directly right after the fourth (?) bolt, which is after the crux and next to the three good pockets in a vertical line on top of each other. You'll notice the older (rusty, slightly protruding) both out there and up right where the route goes. I was out there yesterday and noticed a good deal of chalk going straight up from those pockets, along the line of your red line in the photo. This, however, avoids another (not-ins... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Anasazi Wall : Physical Graffiti (5.11a)
By: Brian Treanor When: Dec 11, 2011

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Comments: I'm late to the party as I just got on this in December 2011 (after Bob pointed me in toward the route). Brilliant climb.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Imaginary Voyage Formation : Imaginary Voyage (5.10d)
By: Brian Treanor When: Dec 8, 2011

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Comments: Possibly my favorite 5.10 out there and--Echoing John's comments--also one of my proudest leads. When I cast off on the thing it was a true onsight. I had no beta at all, no idea about the handrail, etc. Really felt like I was going for it on something that looks way more desperate than it is. I too was shocked to find the first 10 feet are the crux...


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Olmsted Canyon : Olmsted Canyon Left : Creature from the Black Lag... (5.10c)
By: Brian Treanor When: Oct 15, 2011

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Comments: This "climb" is, in fact, a boulder problem. That's how it was established and how it's traditionally been climbed, unless I'm mistaken.

10c belies the touch and go nature of the traverse. I went high, with feet in the flared crack, and there are some real tenuous bits for the grade. I know of a few solid climbers who have taken the plunge...


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Cardinal Pinnacle : West Face (5.10a)
By: Brian Treanor When: Oct 11, 2011

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Comments: I'd call this route 5.9 (and we climbed it with significant snow and ice on the first two pitches). However, I'd also add that the second pitch is one of the best 5.9's I've ever done, rivaling the final pitch of the 3rd Pillar of Dana. Highly recommended.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : The Crucifix (5.11c)
By: Brian Treanor When: Jun 14, 2011

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Comments: Agree with Chris here about the placement of the bolt, but don't really feel strongly enough about it to suggest the effort of moving it. I also agree about the rating. The final traverse left to the anchor seemed miles harder than anything else on the Bat Crack, Crucifix linkup. Maybe even a sandbag at 11c? Or maybe I'm just gettin old...


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Stumbling Blocks : Nipple Denial Syndrome (5.11a/b)
By: Brian Treanor When: Apr 11, 2010

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Comments: It's a bit silly to gripe about a letter grade up or down; but that being said, this route feels substantially harder than Letterbox does, at least for me. Your mileage may vary. (Yes, sent both.)


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : Lower Bridge to Scottish Gu... : Tic Tac (WI4+ M6-7)
By: Brian Treanor When: Mar 26, 2010

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Comments: The difficulty of this route varies a fair bit depending on how much ice is present. In normal conditions, I think Vince Anderson's guide is pretty accurate for the relative grades of the three climbs on this wall. That is to say, Tic Tac (M6), Circling Vultures (M7), and Seamstress (M8). Tic Tac, with or without ice, is just a pegboard of good and very obvious hooks. The only difficulty is the pump. Circling Vultures actually has some fairly delicate and 'balancy' move, although there is often ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Live Oak Picnic Area : Big Bob's Big Wedge : Big Bob's Big Wedge (5.11 V5) : Photo
By: Brian Treanor When: Mar 21, 2010

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Comments: ...which, by the way, failed. Ah well, next season.

Brian


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - East Face : Spider Line (5.11d)
By: Brian Treanor When: Mar 31, 2008

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Comments: Exceptionally hard for the grade. Miles harder than other 11c routes in the Monument/Park.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : King Otto's Castle : Black Max (aka Corridor Cra... (5.11d)
By: Brian Treanor When: Nov 25, 2007

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Comments: I attempted this route yesterday and it is stout. 11d/12a seems closer to the mark, compared with other Josh routes. I would write my failure off to my own weakness, but I've sent some other 11+/12- routes at Josh and I watched a couple of other hardmen who I know climb way, way harder than 11b fail on this thing--and we were toproping it at the end of the day!

Big props to Jon and Dave for putting this up (in '78 !?!). Very, very impressive. It would be a proud lead, as your first decent piece... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : ... : Roomis E. Gloomis (5.10d)
By: Brian Treanor When: Nov 14, 2007

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Comments: A good line, but relatively serious between the second and third bolt. Definite groundfall potential.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : Grey Giant Area : ... : Hyperion (5.11d)
By: Brian Treanor When: Nov 14, 2007

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Comments: The crux move on the first pitch is pretty fecking hard. I've climbed other 11d and 12a routes in the park and this seemed really stout. I think a longer wingspan would make the move significantly easier (seems to me like another 3 inches would have made a world of difference).

The bottom third of the first pitch is pretty rotten, even by Josh standards, compromising the five-star rating in my book. Still, well worth the hike, if only to get away from the crowds. Big props to Charlie (RIP) for... more >>


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