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Member Since: Mar 12, 2002
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 537
Total Points: 1,049
Last Year: 16
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All (1199) | Routes (49) | Areas (10) | Photos (24) | Comments (289) | Posts (621) | Stars (137) | Ratings (69)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Plumb Line Crag : Edward Humid Hands (5.10+) : Photo
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: The landing really sucks for that. While I'm sure it has been soloed, I don't know that anyone has bothered with spotters or pads for that.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Fall Wall (*the route) (5.10a)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: As far as I can tell, the "S" (alongside "VS") rating was a creation of Richard Rossiter for his big-three books (Eldo, BoCan, Flatirons) that ended up being the Front-Range expression of R (and X, respectively). Since most Vedauwoo climbers are Front-Range climbers, the usage is well understood amongst them.


Location: OR : Smith Rock
By: Brian Scoggins When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: I know its an FS campground, does anybody know if the Skull Hollow gate is open, what with the govt. shutdown and all? If no, are there are any less populated campgrounds (I'm willing to drive more, if it means low possibility of loud parties, but the option to cook with a dutch oven)? Obviously PM with details, if the point is to keep it quiet.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Edwards' Crack (5.7)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: There are NO BOLTS on Edward's Crack. If you have to bail after the first pitch, downclimb to the big ledge and walk/scramble over to the anchors on the first pitch of Walt's Wall.

You may want a belay for the final move before you're back on the ledge.


Location: OR : The Columns : Fat Crack (5.8-)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 28, 2013

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Comments: I disagree with Max's "isn't harder than 2nd-3rd class" comment. While most of the routes on the Main Column have a 2nd-3rd class walkoff, getting to the top of Outer Column definitely has a 4th-low 5th move that will catch you by surprise if you aren't expecting it. Only really an issue if you're setting up a top rope, but that's what most people do at the Columns, so its a legitimate issue.

Incidentally, this and routes to the right get climbed a lot less than other lines at the Columns, and ... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : West Face of the Exum Ridge (5.8)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 24, 2013

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Comments: Really, annotated text pulled directly from a guidebook? This is worse than just saying "buy the guidebook!" instead of putting in a real route description.

At least you cited your source, but seriously, this is terrible.


Location: OR : The Columns : Hard Lieback (5.9)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: This route vascillates between perfect fingerlocks and super-tight-hands, with one or two ring-locks thrown in for good measure. It has two cruxes that come right after an awesome jug, and right before perfect hands, respectively.


Location: OR : The Columns : Satisfaction (5.11a)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: I won't dispute the 5.12 grade for a straight-on, holds-only-within-6-inches-of-the-crack send. That said, while it may be technically easier, its far less secure to spread out and stem.

Also, if you reach over to Hard Lieback, it drops it down into the mid 10 range, and I suspect is where the name for that line comes from.

Awesome line on pinscars and tips locks!


Location: WY : 4 Stories Snowy Range Sport...
By: Brian Scoggins When: May 14, 2013

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Comments: No. If Dingus is still developing it, then he and (I assume) Zach have not yet reached the point where a worthwhile book could be attempted.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Brian Scoggins When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: I recall checking a long time ago, to see what busses ran to and from Casper. The short version is not a lot. You might be able to catch one from Casper to Buffalo, but that's still on the other side of Powder River Pass from where you want to go. Good luck!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Drugs and Sex : Dickin's Cider (5.12c)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Apr 14, 2013

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Comments: I think this is pretty tame, compared to some of the names out there. And anyway, Ten Sleep has never been much for taking itself too seriously.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower
By: Brian Scoggins When: Nov 12, 2012

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Comments: Nick, I was referring specifically to the decent off of Klondike, which is a full 60m. If my partner and I had only packed the 70, we would've had a lot of time to contemplate the mistake. I didn't bother with the Bowling Alley rappels, for obvious reasons.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : 700S Boulders : Unknown 2 (5.10- V0-) : Photo
By: Brian Scoggins When: Nov 11, 2012

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Comments: It isn't. The boulder in question is barely 8 feet tall.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : 700S Boulders : Crystal Ladder (V0+ PG13)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Nov 11, 2012

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Comments: I know this has been done before 2012, if for no other reason than because I watched Rob Phares (maybe, could've been Ben Pickerel, or somebody else entirely, they all blur together after awhile) do it in 2010. I'm all but certain it's been done before that.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: Depends on your comfortability with the exposure. We untied, but a party following us did not. Its much MUCH easier than any terrain you have to climb to get to it, and I don't really recall any details about the pro.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : 700S Boulders : Beer Crack (V3)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: The beta I was shown (but never actually succeeded with) involved getting a right-arm chicken wing and struggling up until you can get your foot on that big hold.


Location: WY : Wild Iris : Zorro Area : Little Sport (5.11b)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: There's another sequence that uses a crimp to allow a static move to that pocket, which makes the crux much easier for small folks. Its a very small crimp though, so I didn't use it.


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Pronghorn Pinnacle (5.8)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: Thin, balancy, slopey. More reminiscent of a granite slab.


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Saddle Up (5.9)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: The three climbs here are sort of framed by trees, and all have a hard start to a horizontal break, followed by very easy (but somewhat runout) climbing.


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Hangin' Tree (5.9)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: I mistakenly uploaded the photo to "Saddle Up", but the route is, in fact Hangin' Tree.


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : wind river muzzel loaders (5.9-)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: Hangin' Tree is two left of Ticks For Chicks. I haven't done Wind River Muzzle Loaders.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Crystal Freeway : Strawberry Jam (5.8)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 26, 2012

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Comments: The final 30' have two options:
Go up and left towards the final anchors via an easy but completely unprotected slab.
OR
Go right into the squeeze chimney. It has some good hand jams right where it gets wide enough to start wriggling up (so all the way in the back). The downside is that the final few moves to the anchors are also unprotected but licheny and loose too.

The slab is probably easiest, but 30 feet off of a cam and 10 feet off of a cam, if you're still reeling from the offwidth, wi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Zig Zag (5.7)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: Despite being a bit off route, you can get to a massive tree above the dying slung tree if you have a 70m rope. This provides one of the few really comfortable belay stances on the entire route.

I found protection difficult to find, and not exactly confidence inspiring between the cruxes (e.g. the overhang with the slung block, and the second overhang with the offwidth splitting it) but well protected at the cruxes.

Despite being the easiest, I found the 3rd pitch to be the best in terms of a... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Sugar Crack (5.7)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 14, 2012

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Comments: That's a protection bolt for that slab which, if memory serves, was an Orenzak route. It's been there since I first did Sugar Crack, back in 2003 or 2004.

Tangentially, I really REALLY wish people would stop throwing around bolt chopping as some sort of legitimate approach to climbing management at Vedauwoo. We've had a spectacularly amicable relationship with the Forest Service, and I'd hate to see that go away because certain people insist on a strict ground-up ethic that's historically ali... more >>


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : a man from laramie (5.10c)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: The route two lines right of Ticks for Chicks is actually Dirty Sally, and has very junky rock at the start. The Man From Laramie is now the third line right of Ticks for Chicks.


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