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Member Since: Mar 12, 2002
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Brian Scoggins

Point Rank: # 612
Total Points: 1,074
Last Year: 27
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has Brian Scoggins been climbing?


All 1383 | Routes 49 | Areas 10 | Photos 26 | Page Improvements | Comments 304 | Posts 778 | Stars 143 | Ratings 73
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Contributed Comments


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Mid Cliffs : Loaded Gun (5.7)
By: Brian Scoggins When: May 10, 2015

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Comments: Didn't have too much trouble with feces, but there was the beginnings of a nest when I did it the other day.
The offwidth at the top can look intimidating, but there's a crack inside (climber's left) that takes hand-sized pro pretty easily. Largest I placed was an old-style #3.5 camalot (~#4 friend/new style C4). Fortunately, the crux is the finger-crack down low, and there are plenty of holds, rather than just jams, to make that section go.
There's a seriously loose and flexing flak... more >>

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : War Zone (5.11b)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: Per the first edition of Zach's book, it was a Matt Couppel project. That book came out close to a decade ago though, so if its still a project, it should be reclassified as an open project.

Location: ID : City of Rocks : Twin Sisters
By: Brian Scoggins When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: I just checked. While it does paraphrase the bit about the mile-long ridge, and has a similar topic sentence to the 2009 edition, the similarities end there. Its actually much more robust than Bingham's bit. I'm certain that if it was too similar, Bingham (who is quite active on here) would've brought it to the admin's attention.

Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Mid Cliffs : Bad Ethics (5.10a PG13)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Mar 7, 2015

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Comments: That loose bolt really needs to go. I got suckered into thinking that the roof was an extension (looks that way from the ground), then got up there and found I was wrong. Up to those two bolts is a pleasant, if thin, 5.8

Location: WY
By: Brian Scoggins When: Feb 17, 2015

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Comments: Just to be clear, you're looking for a backcountry sport climbing crag?

Doesn't exist in Wyoming. You might be able to get in some backpacking in the Lander area by hiking between Sinks and Wild Iris and the other crags, but I've never heard of a sport climbing area that was so far from the road that a dead drill battery would take a 4-day round trip trek to resolve.

Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Populace Wall : Stems and Jammies (5.8)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: I think this could only be considered 5.8 if you didn't jam for the entire pitch.
I kept waiting for the 5.8 move, and it never happened.
Also, because of the way the crack opens inside, hexes may be more useful than cams for the upper hand-crack.

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Lower Slot Left (5.7)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Feb 4, 2015

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Comments: The climbing to the first horizontal break can feel pretty tenuous and runout. Your first real gear is right at the break, and it's awesome and easy to place. It's not a 5.7 sequence, but for a long time, that felt like the crux for me, since the rest of the pitch involves really secure jams.

Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Wolverine (5.8)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Feb 1, 2015

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Comments: I recall the last 10 feet or so of the first pitch being effectively unprotected. Not difficult climbing, even compared to the rest of the climb, but I had to toss in my smallest, aid-only nut for sufficient psych to get to the chains.
A fun finger-sized splitter, a rarity for the grade.

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Murphy's Law (V4-5)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Dec 13, 2014

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Comments: Another, vastly easier approach (although you'll need a rope for the pads) is to scramble up the walkoff chimney for Cornelius (just right of Nitrogen Narcosis). Then drop a rope down Cornelius, and drag the pads up.

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Beehive Buttress
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: The Beehive is the *only* easily accessed, easy to moderate sport climbing area in all of southeast Wyoming. Since its discovery, it has become the area of choice to take new climbers, so I really don't recommend going on a weekend, any time the road is open. Best time to hit it: shortly after sunrise, on a Tuesday, when you need snowshoes to make the approach.

Location: WY : Laradise : Higher Education (5.10a)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: I'm told that while some cracks are perfect hands, others are fist and wider.
Fun resources for campus buildering include the buildering guides circulated by Extreme Angles, and the Mountain Gazette article published a few years back. Obviously, these are all historical documents, and nobody should actually climb these. ;)

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Photo
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jul 26, 2014

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Comments: Fall Wall is visible, barely, on the right side of the photo. Walt's Wall and the Coke Bottle, as well as a little bit of Hassler's Hatbox, make up the bulk of the visible rock.

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Edwards' Crack (5.7)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jul 20, 2014

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Comments: Jen, just to clarify: is the rap to the climber's right, or to the skier's right? If it's the climber's right, the Walt's Wall rappels are quite a bit further than 30 feet. Look for the rock tunnel, go through it to reach the top of the Walt's Wall slabs, and keep walking until you encounter the bolts. You can do 3 rappels with a 50m rope to get back to the ground. With 2 60m ropes (with rope stretch, tie knots in the end of your rope), you can do it in one, but some care must be taken when pull... more >>

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Lower Blair I, II, III, and... : Lower Blair I : Raised On Robbery (5.10b)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jul 15, 2014

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Comments: It's also possible to start in the hand crack about 6 feet right of the regular start. There's a bit of face climbing to get through, but the crystals are pretty big. This may make the line a bit easier.

Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : Photo
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: If I'm not mistaken, this is the pullout for the campsite before the one below White Buffalo (its been about 2 years since I was last up there, so my memory is a tad hazy). While I've seen a few non-climbers go up to Wild Iris just to camp, they're in the clear minority. Thing is, most locals that I know (knew? judges?) would've avoided the Iris on Memorial Day weekend (which is when this was taken) because of the out-of-state crowds and the heavy snows of last winter.

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Par Four (5.8)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: Well, the easiest way to get down is to go straight ahead once on top, downclimb a little, to the top of a 3rd class chimney that takes you to the base of the Stand-And-Deliver Boulder.

Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : Photo
By: Brian Scoggins When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: What's funny is that I have been up at the Iris before Memorial Day and seen it bone dry. Its just that even a passing awareness of how much snow fell this winter would tell me that its too muddy to camp up there, and goin' muddin' would just make the Forest Service less friendly to climbers.
Thanks for posting this, Rob!

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Plumb Line Crag : Edward Humid Hands (5.10+) : Photo
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: The landing really sucks for that. While I'm sure it has been soloed, I don't know that anyone has bothered with spotters or pads for that.

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Fall Wall (*the route) (5.10a)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: As far as I can tell, the "S" (alongside "VS") rating was a creation of Richard Rossiter for his big-three books (Eldo, BoCan, Flatirons) that ended up being the Front-Range expression of R (and X, respectively). Since most Vedauwoo climbers are Front-Range climbers, the usage is well understood amongst them.

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Edwards' Crack (5.7)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: There are NO BOLTS on Edward's Crack. If you have to bail after the first pitch, downclimb to the big ledge and walk/scramble over to the anchors on the first pitch of Walt's Wall.

You may want a belay for the final move before you're back on the ledge.

Location: OR : Willamette Valley : Columns (aka Skinner Butte) : Fat Crack (5.8-)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 28, 2013

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Comments: I disagree with Max's "isn't harder than 2nd-3rd class" comment. While most of the routes on the Main Column have a 2nd-3rd class walkoff, getting to the top of Outer Column definitely has a 4th-low 5th move that will catch you by surprise if you aren't expecting it. Only really an issue if you're setting up a top rope, but that's what most people do at the Columns, so its a legitimate issue.

Incidentally, this and routes to the right get climbed a lot less than other lines at the Columns, and ... more >>

Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : West Face of the Exum Ridge (5.8)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 24, 2013

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Comments: Really, annotated text pulled directly from a guidebook? This is worse than just saying "buy the guidebook!" instead of putting in a real route description.

At least you cited your source, but seriously, this is terrible.

Location: OR : Willamette Valley : Columns (aka Skinner Butte) : Hard Lieback (5.9)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: This route vascillates between perfect fingerlocks and super-tight-hands, with one or two ring-locks thrown in for good measure. It has two cruxes that come right after an awesome jug, and right before perfect hands, respectively.

Location: OR : Willamette Valley : Columns (aka Skinner Butte) : Satisfaction (5.11a)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: I won't dispute the 5.12 grade for a straight-on, holds-only-within-6-inches-of-the-crack send. That said, while it may be technically easier, its far less secure to spread out and stem.

Also, if you reach over to Hard Lieback, it drops it down into the mid 10 range, and I suspect is where the name for that line comes from.

Awesome line on pinscars and tips locks!

Location: WY : 4 Stories Snowy Range Sport...
By: Brian Scoggins When: May 14, 2013

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Comments: No. If Dingus is still developing it, then he and (I assume) Zach have not yet reached the point where a worthwhile book could be attempted.

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