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Member Since: Mar 12, 2002
Last Visit: 49 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 565
Total Points: 1,057
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brian Scoggins been climbing?










Contributions


All 1240 | Routes 49 | Areas 10 | Photos 24 | Page Improvments | Comments 297 | Posts 653 | Stars 138 | Ratings 69
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Laradise : Higher Education (5.10a)
By: Brian Scoggins When: 3 days ago

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Comments: I'm told that while some cracks are perfect hands, others are fist and wider.
Fun resources for campus buildering include the buildering guides circulated by Extreme Angles, and the Mountain Gazette article published a few years back. Obviously, these are all historical documents, and nobody should actually climb these. ;)


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Photo
By: Brian Scoggins When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Fall Wall is visible, barely, on the right side of the photo. Walt's Wall and the Coke Bottle, as well as a little bit of Hassler's Hatbox, make up the bulk of the visible rock.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Edwards' Crack (5.7)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jul 20, 2014

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Comments: Jen, just to clarify: is the rap to the climber's right, or to the skier's right? If it's the climber's right, the Walt's Wall rappels are quite a bit further than 30 feet. Look for the rock tunnel, go through it to reach the top of the Walt's Wall slabs, and keep walking until you encounter the bolts. You can do 3 rappels with a 50m rope to get back to the ground. With 2 60m ropes (with rope stretch, tie knots in the end of your rope), you can do it in one, but some care must be taken when pull... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair I, II, III, and... : Lower Blair I : Raised On Robbery (5.10b)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jul 15, 2014

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Comments: It's also possible to start in the hand crack about 6 feet right of the regular start. There's a bit of face climbing to get through, but the crystals are pretty big. This may make the line a bit easier.


Location: WY : Wild Iris : Photo
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: If I'm not mistaken, this is the pullout for the campsite before the one below White Buffalo (its been about 2 years since I was last up there, so my memory is a tad hazy). While I've seen a few non-climbers go up to Wild Iris just to camp, they're in the clear minority. Thing is, most locals that I know (knew? judges?) would've avoided the Iris on Memorial Day weekend (which is when this was taken) because of the out-of-state crowds and the heavy snows of last winter.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Lower Slot Right (5.8)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: This is already in the database as part of Lower and Upper Slot. Either we need to clearly label that as Lower Slot Left into Upper Slot Right, or we need to add a page for Upper Slot Right. And we need to split off the comments, pictures, etc from each into their appropriate page.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Par Four (5.8)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: Well, the easiest way to get down is to go straight ahead once on top, downclimb a little, to the top of a 3rd class chimney that takes you to the base of the Stand-And-Deliver Boulder.


Location: WY : Wild Iris : Photo
By: Brian Scoggins When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: What's funny is that I have been up at the Iris before Memorial Day and seen it bone dry. Its just that even a passing awareness of how much snow fell this winter would tell me that its too muddy to camp up there, and goin' muddin' would just make the Forest Service less friendly to climbers.
Thanks for posting this, Rob!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Plumb Line Crag : Edward Humid Hands (5.10+) : Photo
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: The landing really sucks for that. While I'm sure it has been soloed, I don't know that anyone has bothered with spotters or pads for that.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Fall Wall (*the route) (5.10a)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: As far as I can tell, the "S" (alongside "VS") rating was a creation of Richard Rossiter for his big-three books (Eldo, BoCan, Flatirons) that ended up being the Front-Range expression of R (and X, respectively). Since most Vedauwoo climbers are Front-Range climbers, the usage is well understood amongst them.


Location: OR : Smith Rock
By: Brian Scoggins When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: I know its an FS campground, does anybody know if the Skull Hollow gate is open, what with the govt. shutdown and all? If no, are there are any less populated campgrounds (I'm willing to drive more, if it means low possibility of loud parties, but the option to cook with a dutch oven)? Obviously PM with details, if the point is to keep it quiet.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Edwards' Crack (5.7)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: There are NO BOLTS on Edward's Crack. If you have to bail after the first pitch, downclimb to the big ledge and walk/scramble over to the anchors on the first pitch of Walt's Wall.

You may want a belay for the final move before you're back on the ledge.


Location: OR : The Columns : Fat Crack (5.8-)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 28, 2013

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Comments: I disagree with Max's "isn't harder than 2nd-3rd class" comment. While most of the routes on the Main Column have a 2nd-3rd class walkoff, getting to the top of Outer Column definitely has a 4th-low 5th move that will catch you by surprise if you aren't expecting it. Only really an issue if you're setting up a top rope, but that's what most people do at the Columns, so its a legitimate issue.

Incidentally, this and routes to the right get climbed a lot less than other lines at the Columns, and ... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : West Face of the Exum Ridge (5.8)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 24, 2013

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Comments: Really, annotated text pulled directly from a guidebook? This is worse than just saying "buy the guidebook!" instead of putting in a real route description.

At least you cited your source, but seriously, this is terrible.


Location: OR : The Columns : Hard Lieback (5.9)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: This route vascillates between perfect fingerlocks and super-tight-hands, with one or two ring-locks thrown in for good measure. It has two cruxes that come right after an awesome jug, and right before perfect hands, respectively.


Location: OR : The Columns : Satisfaction (5.11a)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: I won't dispute the 5.12 grade for a straight-on, holds-only-within-6-inches-of-the-crack send. That said, while it may be technically easier, its far less secure to spread out and stem.

Also, if you reach over to Hard Lieback, it drops it down into the mid 10 range, and I suspect is where the name for that line comes from.

Awesome line on pinscars and tips locks!


Location: WY : 4 Stories Snowy Range Sport...
By: Brian Scoggins When: May 14, 2013

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Comments: No. If Dingus is still developing it, then he and (I assume) Zach have not yet reached the point where a worthwhile book could be attempted.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Brian Scoggins When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: I recall checking a long time ago, to see what busses ran to and from Casper. The short version is not a lot. You might be able to catch one from Casper to Buffalo, but that's still on the other side of Powder River Pass from where you want to go. Good luck!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Drugs and Sex : Dickin's Cider (5.12c)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Apr 14, 2013

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Comments: I think this is pretty tame, compared to some of the names out there. And anyway, Ten Sleep has never been much for taking itself too seriously.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower
By: Brian Scoggins When: Nov 12, 2012

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Comments: Nick, I was referring specifically to the decent off of Klondike, which is a full 60m. If my partner and I had only packed the 70, we would've had a lot of time to contemplate the mistake. I didn't bother with the Bowling Alley rappels, for obvious reasons.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : 700S Boulders : Unknown 2 (5.10- V0-) : Photo
By: Brian Scoggins When: Nov 11, 2012

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Comments: It isn't. The boulder in question is barely 8 feet tall.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : 700S Boulders : Crystal Ladder (V0+ PG13)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Nov 11, 2012

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Comments: I know this has been done before 2012, if for no other reason than because I watched Rob Phares (maybe, could've been Ben Pickerel, or somebody else entirely, they all blur together after awhile) do it in 2010. I'm all but certain it's been done before that.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: Depends on your comfortability with the exposure. We untied, but a party following us did not. Its much MUCH easier than any terrain you have to climb to get to it, and I don't really recall any details about the pro.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : 700S Boulders : Beer Crack (V3)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: The beta I was shown (but never actually succeeded with) involved getting a right-arm chicken wing and struggling up until you can get your foot on that big hold.


Location: WY : Wild Iris : Zorro Area : Little Sport (5.11b)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: There's another sequence that uses a crimp to allow a static move to that pocket, which makes the crux much easier for small folks. Its a very small crimp though, so I didn't use it.


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