Comments: Long, sweet route! Take 4, or so, .75 camalots, or so. There's a section of nothing but in the bottom of the main corner right after a little wide pod. Then it's 1s until all the way til after the roof (which is freakin hard!).
Comments: Such great climbing and rad corner features. There are definitely some scary (or, spare me, risky) sections though. That square block that Blake Herrington mentioned is the real deal, and what stands out in my mind as the crux of the route was moving past this thing. Although any of the other holds are just as likely to break I suppose. The only runout part that Handren specifically mentions (P3 5.8 traverse) is a cake walk compared to everything else. And by that time, you'll be so used to it a... more >>
Comments: Nice one. It was on the cover of Rock & Ice just a short while back and I always looked at it when descending HCR. Those pro photos make it look so good.. I think I'll go do it next time I'm there now. Thanks for posting
Comments: I've climbed this twice over two years or so and I still think the crux pitch is harder than anything on the Northeast Buttress. And if you don't bring bigger gear it will sure be scarier too. When I think of the two now, therefore, this one makes me uhhhh way more nervous. Even though the NEB is way longer, I'd say it's way more doable as far as the climbing and pro go. Seriously, one should bring a 4 or 5 if there's any doubt. It's just for the one spot but I'm sure it could probably be used e... more >>
Comments: The ground can be reached in two raps with a single 70m form the top. Or 3 raps if you want, but it definitely works. All the stars if you do the heart of country pitch which is phenomenal. Don't stop on the ledge, just keep going up the crack for more of the same for the "variation."
Comments: Great climbing and rock. Definitely do the 5.9 friction on the last pitch. It's only hard for a few moves past the second bolt. No harder than the climbing getting into the p3 splitter. Very good and way better looking than that dirty crack with a big bush in it. You can see both bolts and where you want to go so I'm not sure how you could get off route, but who knows. I definitely cranked off the bolt to get past the sotol bush higher up this ptich.
The trail ends under some big trees at the ... more >>
Comments: I climbed it like in the photo as well (carried on route, thanks). You'll end up there if you stay in the left leaning crack system and don't "traverse back right" like it says to do here in the mp description for the 3rd pitch. It is definitely a "chimney with a overhanging start," but it's not that hard. It puts you right at the base of the black face.
Comments: I'd give it 5.9+ for the second pitch of the bottom of the ridge. After the "5.8 squeeze slot" I climbed the corner described here. This is a very pretty, lichen-free sustained fingerish crack in a corner that can be seen from the base. It was way harder than anything on the gendarme or anywhere else on the route. After this I wasn't sure where the route went, but we belayed one more pitch before we wanted to simul.
Fixed #4 is still in the 2nd gendarme pitch as of 8/12 so no need to brin... more >>
Comments: Very sweet. I think the hard part was more comparable to anti jello crack's crux (and not all that much easier). The crack in the corner really pinched down in spots. And, if you do the "undercling" variation, you can just barely rap with a 70m (I definitely don't think you could from the straight up var. rap anchor). It is pretty sketchy. Best just bring two ropes.
Comments: Man, I've climbed this route twice (about a year apart) and both times I had a significant hold break on me. The second time it caused me to fall pretty good onto the first bolt (just after the crux) and into the slab below. I found the hold in the gully and it was definitely chalked up. It looks like a cool route from afar (nice sun/shade line), but I don't think it really feels that cool. And some bolts on the left face for another route kind of detract from it. The crux sequence is pretty coo... more >>
Comments: Hey, thanks for the history John. Yeah, I wasn't trying to throw any kind of fit over the bolt thing. I understand, and some bolts next to a crack really doesn't bother me all that much in the first place. Just thought it was odd that it's such a poorly protected climb and the few bolts happen to be next to cracks. I didn't notice the no hands rests. Oh well. It's still a super dirty climb which would be better if it cleaned up (which hasn't, and wont, the way it is).
Comments: P1 -- 5.8ish. Start left of the Steve Garvey plaque (which is to the right of the toe of the buttress. For those that don't know, this route goes up the 'prominent' prow of the formation across the valley from the outhouse) , and climb face and cracks to a little ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Starting even further left in a short corner that soon meets up with the other start is possible too.
P2 -- 5.7. Climb straight up and pass some cool cracks. Belay at a big boulder with bolts in it. You shou... more >>