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Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Anchorage & South Central I... : Benign Peak : Photo
By: Brian Prince When: Jan 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: John has already done that, Clint. Nothing on those big, clean walls... But awesome looking routes John. Thanks for writing them up.
aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/north-amer>>>
Scroll down.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : Breakaway (5.10c)
By: Brian Prince When: Nov 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, I wasn't necessarily recommending only bringing a 70m; It works if you're up there and didn't plan accordingly and/or are just lazy. Anyway, that'd be awesome of you to update the anchor because, yeah, it's pretty shitty lookin. Thanks in advance. Maybe place it a bit lower even ;) There's no reason it needs to be up that high imho
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle : Xyphoid Fever (5.10)
By: Brian Prince When: Nov 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, if it weren't for the crimps you'd definitely need to be a decent, anyway, offwidth climber. That'd be rad if you didn't use them. Would probably have to invert? But whatever. Fun either way
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : The Nightcrawler (5.10b)
By: Brian Prince When: Nov 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd recommend topping out. The view is amazing and then you only have to bring one rope (if you don't have an 80m but who wants to carry that). The gunsight notch is pretty unique as well. After the 5th pitch it's one more pitch of easy but fragile face climbing. Definitely worth it. Oh yeah, great route. Getting onto and then moving off of that block on the third pitch was the crux for me.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : Breakaway (5.10c)
By: Brian Prince When: Nov 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The steep and clean (from far away) face and exposed postion made this one pretty cool. I mean when I saw the face (it stands out) and that water streak running down the middle, I was a little scared. Cool, sustained, classic RR face climbing. We also ended the first pitch on top of the little pillar. Seemed obvious.
Anyway... You can get down with a 70m if you want. I extended the anchor (wish I had some webbing) probably about a meter and that definitely helped but it was still very close. T... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : La Cierta Edad (5.10d)
By: Brian Prince When: Nov 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: RAP BETA: I'm not sure if it's been said, but you can rap the route with a 70m if you stop midway up pitch 4 (don't know about continuing). The first rap is kind of funky since you have to rap back across the ledge but the rope pulled ok. The way all the cord is equalized also puts all your weight on this tiny little bolt (of 3) doing it this way but it worked. The rest of the belays are all new and setup for rapping.
I though pitch 2 was pretty scary after the chimney and I thought I was used ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Adventure Punks (5.10d)
By: Brian Prince When: Nov 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route but alright, enough is enough. A duck taped hook? Come on guys! The first pitch is seriously less intimidating when you actually see it than any description or picture. I was expecting it to be way further to the flake/good hold. It's close to the ground and really just one move and an absolute cinch. So anyway, that's that. The rest of the pitch is really fun liebacking from one flake to the other. Although one flake at one point is really really thin and pretty scary.
Now for the ... more >>
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Imaginary Voyage (5.9-) : Photo
By: Brian Prince When: Nov 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great perspective
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10) : Photo
By: Brian Prince When: Nov 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey! nice one
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Sudden Impact (5.11)
By: Brian Prince When: Nov 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Long, sweet route! Take 4, or so, green camalots, or so. There's a section of nothing but in the bottom of the main corner right after a little wide pod. Then it's reds until all the way til after the roof (which is freakin hard!).
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Risky Business (5.10c R)
By: Brian Prince When: Oct 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Such great climbing and rad corner features. There are definitely some scary (or, spare me, risky) sections though. That square block that Blake Herrington mentioned is the real deal, and what stands out in my mind as the crux of the route was moving past this thing. Although any of the other holds are just as likely to break I suppose. The only runout part that Handren mentions (P3 5.8 traverse) is a cake walk compared to everything else. And by that time, you'll be so used to it all. Especiall... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Higher Cathedral Rock : The Sequel (5.8)
By: Brian Prince When: Oct 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice one. It was on the cover of Rock & Ice just a short while back and I always looked at it when descending HCR. Those pro photos make it look so good.. I think I'll go do it next time I'm there now. Thanks for posting
Here's a small one of it.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Higher Cathedral Rock : Braille Book (5.8)
By: Brian Prince When: Oct 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've climbed this twice over two years or so and I still think the crux pitch is harder than anything on the Northeast Buttress. And if you don't bring bigger gear it will sure be scarier too. When I think of the two now, therefore, this one makes me uhhhh way more nervous. Even though the NEB is way longer, I'd say it's way more doable as far as the climbing and pro go. Seriously, one should bring a 4 or 5 if there's any doubt. It's just for the one spot but I'm sure it could probably be used e... more >>
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : The Country Area : The Country : GM Route (5.9)
By: Brian Prince When: Sep 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The ground can be reached in two raps with a single 70m form the top. Or 3 raps if you want, but it definitely works. All the stars if you do the heart of country pitch which is phenomenal. Don't stop on the ledge, just keep going up the crack for more of the same for the "variation."
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Tooth : Tooth Fairy (5.9+)
By: Brian Prince When: Sep 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climbing and rock. Definitely do the 5.9 friction on the last pitch. It's only hard for a few moves past the second bolt. No harder than the climbing getting into the p3 splitter. Very good and way better looking than that dirty crack with a big bush in it. You can see both bolts and where you want to go so I'm not sure how you could get off route, but who knows. I definitely cranked off the bolt to get past the sotol bush higher up this ptich.
The trail ends under some big trees at the ... more >>
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Lower Exum Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: Brian Prince When: Sep 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed it like in the photo as well (carried on route, thanks). You'll end up there if you stay in the left leaning crack system and don't "traverse back right" like it says to do here in the mp description for the 3rd pitch. It is definitely a "chimney with a overhanging start," but it's not that hard. It puts you right at the base of the black face.
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Mount Stuart and Vicinity : The Direct North Ridge w/ G... (5.9+)
By: Brian Prince When: Aug 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd give it 5.9+ for the second pitch of the bottom of the ridge. After the "5.8 squeeze slot" I climbed the corner described here. This is a very pretty, lichen-free sustained fingerish crack in a corner that can be seen from the base. It was way harder than anything on the gendarme or anywhere else on the route. After this I wasn't sure where the route went, but we had to belay one more pitch before we wanted to simul climb.
Fixed #4 is still in the 2nd gendarme pitch as of 8/12 so no n... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Fraid Line (5.13a PG13)
By: Brian Prince When: Jun 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments:
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Location: International : North America : Canada : Northwest Territories : The Cirque of the Unclimbab... : ... : Southeast Face (5.11-)
By: Brian Prince When: May 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: new link for video
youtu.be/hVkgSZUwn3k
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern... : The Lieback (5.5)
By: Brian Prince When: Apr 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very sweet. I thought the hard part was more comparable to anti jello crack's crux (and not all that much easier). The crack in the corner really pinched down in spots. And, if you do the "undercling" variation, you can just barely rap with a 70m (I definitely don't think you could from the straight up var. rap anchor). It is pretty sketchy. Best just bring two ropes (or an 80).
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Out of Hangers (5.10a R)
By: Brian Prince When: Apr 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Man, I've climbed this route twice (about a year apart) and both times I had a significant hold break on me. The second time it caused me to fall pretty good onto the first bolt (just after the crux) and into the slab below. I found the hold in the gully and it was definitely chalked up. It looks like a cool route from afar (nice sun/shade line), but I don't think it really feels that cool. And some bolts on the left face for another route kind of detract from it. The crux sequence is pretty coo... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : P-Wall Direct (5.8 R)
By: Brian Prince When: Apr 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey, thanks for the history John. Yeah, I wasn't trying to throw any kind of fit over the bolt thing. I understand, and some bolts next to a crack really doesn't bother me all that much in the first place. Just thought it was odd that it's such a poorly protected climb and the few bolts happen to be next to cracks. I didn't notice the no hands rests. Oh well. It's still a super dirty climb which would be better if it cleaned up (which hasn't, and wont, the way it is).
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Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Ruth Gorge : Moose's Tooth : Shaken not Stirred (WI5 M5 Steep Snow)
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Jim Donini and Greg Crouch, '97
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Location: AK : Kenai Peninsula : Kenai Peninsula ICE : Victor Creek : Victor Creek 3 (WI3)
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Kenai Peninsula is usually warmer than Anchorage (very generally speaking), but late december/early january is a safe guess. Could be earlier/later too.
It's in now..
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Jamcrack Wall : Photo
By: Brian Prince When: Jan 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: you got it, john
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