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The Seward Highway is really beautiful.


Member Since: Mar 30, 2010
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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All 810 | Routes 10 | Areas 3 | Photos 61 | Page Improvments | Comments 94 | Posts 117 | Stars 440 | Ratings 85
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Fist or Flips (5.10c)
By: Brian Prince When: Apr 4, 2013

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Comments: I rapped off a fixed #2 camalot with a long cord clipped to it (after testing with backup). It might be possible to continue to the top of the shoulder and rap off a tree back there. Or maybe there's an actual anchor up there. Going right after the crack ends to gain the top might work, but the rock looked a little scary over there. Going straight up, past the fixed #2, is also possible. I had a 70m. A 60m from the #2 would probably work, but'd be close.

Unless you're willing ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Walt's Rocks : Lower Walt's Rocks : Perfect Fingers (5.10a)
By: Brian Prince When: Mar 25, 2013

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Comments: Such a beautiful line! Flare beta: layback. Way easier than trying to stay inside the thing. It may seem like a terrifying idea on lead but it's really solid and there are good stances every few moves to stand up and reach in to place.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks : At Your Pleasure (5.8)
By: Brian Prince When: Mar 25, 2013

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Comments: Dan, I think the descent you described is the best way off.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks : White Rain (5.11a)
By: Brian Prince When: Mar 25, 2013

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Comments: The Rock quality cannot be overstated. This was exactly what I was expecting after all the queen mountain rock hype. Great route and, besides the beginning, the only scary part would be between the 2nd and 3rd bolts but it's all on positive edges. And yeah, the 3rd bolt is pretty rusty.

I thought the crux was at the beginning moving off a big ball of a jug. I'm pretty sure this was right after the first bolt. The top traverse is not too bad if you find the right holds. This is definitely easie... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
By: Brian Prince When: Mar 25, 2013

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Comments: Descent beta : A lot of options under the various routes have been mentioned for rapping off the top. With one 60m it's pretty easy to rap "where were you" from the very top. This bolted anchor is easily spotted to climber's left of a small break to the left of mojave queen and upper mojave. After "where were you" you'll be on the halfway ledge and one more rap (1995 budget closure I think) will take you to the ground.

This is really the simple and obvious thing to do. There is no need ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks : Upper Mojave (5.11a)
By: Brian Prince When: Mar 25, 2013

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Comments: I thought this route was just as good as mojave queen; it's just a little dirtier in the crack. Would totally be classic if cleaner. The rock on the face above is sweet.

The two routes are really easy to compare as they both (after the initial easy part of mojave queen) climb a right leaning crack/flake and then pull a steep bulge on crimps. The crack and the face bulge were both harder on this. The crack was still in the 5.10 range but the bulge was way hard. Miramontes says to go le... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Out of Hangers (5.10a R)
By: Brian Prince When: Mar 21, 2013

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Comments: It could just be me but I was bleaying someone on this the other day and, what do you know, a hold broke. He took a really big fall! It was pretty wild. All was well in the end though. It happened towards the top on easier ground so, yeah, just be careful eh!

Don't hesitate to clip the bolts on the left face. That's what my partner fell onto and it helped him out for sure. Sling them though.

Still a worthy route


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Photo
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 26, 2013

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Comments: Compare with this . Notice the relation of the little triangle roof to the right. That's f^(#ed up! Looks like the lower roof is still there, it just "moved" up 10 feet or so.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Free For All (Variation) (5.11a)
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 19, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, I was gettin mixed up today. There are no longer bolts on the bottom (for the love of gawd do not get worked up over this). You pass a single one before joining the pump floyd line. Crux for me was a crank of a pretty shallow, right, two fingie pocket. The sidepull/undercling rail is sweet. Cool little route that should just be TRed from pump floyd now


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Art Baker Memorial (5.9 PG13)
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 18, 2013

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Comments: I hardly believed, looking up at the base, that the first pitch was what I saw. The rock is really scary and the cracks are really dirty. It's whatever though. I guess just don't do it if you're not into that kind of thing. The climbing is kind of fun. When you get to the first ledge (Budweiser) , keep going to get to the anchor.

The second pitch is, as advertised, great. I'd recommend rapping in if you want to do it. Rap (or walk down scary 3rd slab) right below the cuticle corner (which is t... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Wandering Taoist (5.9)
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 18, 2013

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Comments: The first pitch is some good and hard slab! It stays pretty sustained until after the fourth bolt. I kept wanting to climb to the right of the first few bolts and reach over left to clip. First 2 bolts were a little scary gettin to. I thought, although my belayer ensured he had me, that I was going to hit the ground going for the 2nd bolt. The 3rd and 4th bolts are spaced but you'd be ok. And, of course, after that it really spaces as it gets easy. Cool rock on the end of this pitch and the seco... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Hanging Teeth (5.8)
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 18, 2013

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Comments: There are three bolts below the roof. You can clip the first from the top of the pedestal. The way I finish (don't really know the correct way but this makes sense), after the roof and corner, is to go straight up and clip 3 more bolts to arrive at a 2 bolt chain anchor that can reach the pedestal with a 60 and the ground with a 70.

This is a sweet route. Multiple tricky sequences and the roof traverse is sweet. Underclinging a handcrack. Pulling the roof takes a good read to get the round, obv... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Jamcrack Wall : Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts... (5.10b)
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 18, 2013

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Comments: I did this again yesterday. Sweet and burly but just a bit short! I placed a 3 in the middle this time too; there is perfect spot for it right in front of your face. Definitely go left after the crack. I didn't even see the anchor straight above. You'll be able to TR some really steep, powerful, bouldery seam/crack too.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Warpy Moople (5.9 R)
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 13, 2013

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Comments: I remember thinking pitch 5 felt pretty easy and safe compared to some random face climbing and route finding on some of the other pitches. At any rate, pretty cool intro to the Sandias. Beautiful place.

We got a late start and had people knocking rocks down at us which was a bummer but I guess our fault.. wear a helmet. Anyway we topped out at sunset (beautiful) and ended up walking back at dark. I think we just b lined it up the hill (we were off trail on the approach for most of the way so ... more >>


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 13, 2013

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Comments: Trundling Monkeys Foot
.

A little video to give you a taste of the rock. I just can't believe it was an established route.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Voodoo Dome : White Punks on Dope (5.8+ PG13)
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 11, 2013

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Comments: Just to put it out there because I haven't seen mention of it, one can walk off (after rapping from the summit or not) the other way. That is, the gully between the Warlock and Voodoo dome. This involves some tricky trail finding to not get cliffed out as you make your way back to the base of the route (yes, this leads back to the base of the route) but it 's not bad. Just hug Voodoo dome when you get near the bottom of the gully. There are some cairns.

I've done both ways and this is definite... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 8, 2013

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Comments: The one time I've been here and topped out (on candyland), I couldn't find the coke bottle raps either. Just kept walking climbers right and found a gully/the side of the cliff that appeared to have a trail going down it. Eventually lost that.. It didn't take that long to get back to the base (no longer than 45 minutes) but there was a lot of sharp plants to walk through.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10+)
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 3, 2013

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Comments: Classic Red Rocks face climbing for ~10 pitches up a sweet face. I'll just second that 4&5 link fine and to get the view of horseshoe if rapping. Try and work it to get the good belay ledges.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Anchorage & South Central I... : Benign Peak : Photo
By: Brian Prince When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: John has already done that, Clint. Nothing on those big, clean walls... But awesome looking routes John. Thanks for writing them up.

aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/north-amer>>>

Scroll down.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : Breakaway (5.10c)
By: Brian Prince When: Nov 30, 2012

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Comments: Yeah, I wasn't necessarily recommending only bringing a 70m; It works if you're up there and didn't plan accordingly and/or are just lazy. Anyway, that'd be awesome of you to update the anchor because, yeah, it's pretty shitty lookin. Thanks in advance. Maybe place it a bit lower even ;) There's no reason it needs to be up that high imho


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle : Xyphoid Fever (5.10)
By: Brian Prince When: Nov 30, 2012

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Comments: Yeah, if it weren't for the crimps you'd definitely need to be a decent, anyway, offwidth climber. That'd be rad if you didn't use them. Would probably have to invert? But whatever. Fun either way


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : The Nightcrawler (5.10b)
By: Brian Prince When: Nov 30, 2012

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Comments: I'd recommend topping out. The view is amazing and then you only have to bring one rope (if you don't have an 80m but who wants to carry that). The gunsight notch is pretty unique as well. After the 5th pitch it's one more pitch of easy but fragile face climbing. Definitely worth it. Oh yeah, great route. Getting onto and then moving off of that block on the third pitch was the crux for me.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : Breakaway (5.10c)
By: Brian Prince When: Nov 29, 2012

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Comments: The steep and clean (from far away) face and exposed postion made this one pretty cool. I mean when I saw the face (it stands out) and that water streak running down the middle, I was a little scared. Cool, sustained, classic RR face climbing. We also ended the first pitch on top of the little pillar. Seemed obvious.

Anyway... You can get down with a 70m if you want. The anchor was extended (wish I had some webbing) probably about a meter and that definitely helped but it was still very close.... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : La Cierta Edad (5.10d)
By: Brian Prince When: Nov 29, 2012

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Comments: RAP BETA: I'm not sure if it's been said, but you can rap the route with a 70m if you stop midway up pitch 4 (don't know about continuing). The first rap is kind of funky since you have to rap back across the ledge but the rope pulled ok. The way all the cord is equalized also puts all your weight on this tiny little bolt (of 3) doing it this way but it worked. The rest of the belays are all new and setup for rapping.

I though pitch 2 was pretty scary after the chimney and I thought I was used ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Adventure Punks (5.10d)
By: Brian Prince When: Nov 29, 2012

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Comments: Great route but alright, enough is enough. A duck taped hook? Come on guys! The first pitch is seriously less intimidating when you actually see it than any description or picture. I was expecting it to be way further to the flake/good hold. It's close to the ground and really just one move and an absolute cinch. So anyway, that's that. The rest of the pitch is really fun liebacking from one flake to the other. Although one flake at one point is really really thin and pretty scary.

Now for the ... more >>


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