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Member Since: Dec 11, 2006
Last Visit: Oct 16, 2011
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brian Hench been climbing?










Contributions


All 189 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 6 | Page Improvements | Comments 64 | Posts 7 | Stars 50 | Ratings 56
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Stumbling Blocks : Monkey Mayhem (5.5)
By: Brian Hench When: Aug 23, 2011

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Comments: It may have been chossy at one time, but has cleaned up nicely. A good beginner lead.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Orange Flake (5.8)
By: Brian Hench When: Jan 2, 2011

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Comments: This route could be done in three pitches with a 70 meter rope. Using our 60 m rope, it was 3 pitches and spare change. The offwidth sections are not that hard, and with good technique one could do them with a pack on. (If that's what you're into...)


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : The North Buttress : The Uneventful (5.5)
By: Brian Hench When: Jul 3, 2010

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Comments: I am starting to think that Randy got parts of Lip Up Fatty confused with The Uneventful. The 5.8 pitch corner above the J-Tree may be part of the former route.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : The Grotto
By: Brian Hench When: May 17, 2010

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Comments: Those climbs will never be open for climbing- ever! They were all erased!

Those routes were on north-facing cliffs- precisely where Dudleyas prefer to grow. There are a lot of different Dudleya species at Echo. If I remember correctly, the ranger said the endangered one was D. moreliana, named for its tendency to hold onto its dead leaves.

This web site has a long list of Dudleya species.

crassulaceae.net/index.php?opt...... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : The Grotto : Game Boy (5.8)
By: Brian Hench When: May 17, 2010

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Comments: The rating is a sandbag. It IS much harder than the route to the left.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Left Flank : Photo
By: Brian Hench When: Mar 21, 2010

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Comments: This photo is of the Grotto area including Xanadu to Lowrider?


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Left Flank : Black Tide (5.9)
By: Brian Hench When: Mar 21, 2010

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Comments: Can be wet near the top after a rain. One should watch out for loose rock on this route.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Mt. Gorgeous : K-2 (5.9)
By: Brian Hench When: Dec 1, 2009

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Comments: The left bolt of the belay anchor consists of an aluminum carabiner trapped in a chain link. Top ropers have worn a groove 2/3 of the way through this biner. There is no other way to use this bolt than to clip the worn biner. It is dangerous and should be replaced! Bring a hacksaw and some quick links.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Moosedog Tower : Tranquility (5.6)
By: Brian Hench When: Nov 24, 2009

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Comments: This route is not 5.6.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Varnished Wall : Crank Queenie (5.8)
By: Brian Hench When: Nov 23, 2009

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Comments: The rap slings are at the top of Malice.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Whitney : East Face (5.6)
By: Brian Hench When: Oct 6, 2009

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Comments: I thought the Tower Traverse and Fresh Air Traverse were memorable, but the rest of the pitches were not, except for the short crux chimney.

It's not as hard as it looks. There are many features inside the crack near the bottom and then outside near the top. Haul your packs using a bight of rope and it will be easy.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Cat Burglar (5.6)
By: Brian Hench When: Aug 21, 2009

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Comments: This route is somewhat confusing to many people. Make sure you figure out where you go before you start. It follows a slanting ledge system, up and right then goes around a corner and up a left facing corner and left to a ledge with a bunch of ancient pitons. Belay here. Second pitch goes up and to the right.

If you are not careful, rope drag can be a real problem on this route.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Crack of Doom (5.10b)
By: Brian Hench When: Aug 21, 2009

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Comments: The access described above is basically the start of Winter Solstice. Another way to get to Crack of Doom is to climb the enjoyable route Old Gray Mare.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Old Gray Mare (5.8)
By: Brian Hench When: Aug 21, 2009

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Comments: Route protects much better than it appears from the ground. This route doesn't get as much traffic as it deserves, probably because most believe the only way to the top is Crack of Doom, 5.10b. Actually, one could choose to continue on Winter Solstice by going left on the ledge system to join that route.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Fingertip Traverse (5.3)
By: Brian Hench When: Aug 10, 2009

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Comments: I would think that many would want to rope up for the "third class gully". It seem more like fourth class to me. If you have a beginner in tow, I wouldn't ask him or her to solo that gully.

We finished the traverse pitch by continuing up and left to a large tree located above and right of lunch ledge. From here we continued up Angel's Fright and finished with the slab at the top. A total of four pitches.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Senior Citizens in Space (5.8)
By: Brian Hench When: Jun 15, 2009

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Comments: This is a really good route! It's the best 5.8 I've climbed and the best 5.8 at Index. For me the crux was where it steepens near the top, because there was a lot of debris in the crack and that made it a little hard to get jams.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Wilson Regular Route (5.5 R)
By: Brian Hench When: Apr 7, 2009

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Comments: We went back and did The Regular Route again this weekend, and this time did the second pitch correctly. You have to tip toe left on a horizontal ledge past a broken acacia bush. You have to be careful for rope drag. If you protect the traverse, which is easy, you'll have bad drag.

After climbing up the plates (FUN!) you go up to a ramp and past a bush to an easy gully.

There is an alternate finish that goes more or less straight up from the plates. It's harder than 5.5 though (5.7-5.8?) a... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Dogleg (5.8)
By: Brian Hench When: Mar 30, 2009

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Comments: I've shied away from leading this one for a long time because of all sorts of comments like the ones above. When I finally led it, it seemed a lot easier than I expected it to. It has lots of good rests all along it's length. The hardest move for me was not the start but in the vicinity of the piton. I used a combination of foot jamming and stemming that got me to the next jug.

To get down we climbed up and over and down to a ledge and rap station on the east side. A single rope rap took us... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Walk on the Wild Side (5.8)
By: Brian Hench When: Mar 25, 2009

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Comments: Come on. The walk off doesn't suck. It's all a matter of attitude. Think of it as an adventure.


Location: WA : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Sunshine Wall : King Pins : Sinsemilla (5.10c)
By: Brian Hench When: Mar 16, 2009

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Comments: Takes lots of medium nuts.


Location: WA : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Sunshine Wall : King Pins : Stems and Seeds (5.11a)
By: Brian Hench When: Mar 16, 2009

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Comments: The book is correct. I'd say it's 5.11b if are short, or 5.10d if you are tall.


Location: WA : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Sunshine Wall : King Pins : George and Martha (5.10a)
By: Brian Hench When: Mar 16, 2009

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Comments: This route is a lot harder than Air Guitar. It's just a lot more pumpy.


Location: WA : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Sunshine Wall : King Pins : Seven Virgins and a Mule (5.7)
By: Brian Hench When: Mar 16, 2009

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Comments: This route is really popular. People line up for it. As well they might. It's fun.


Location: WA : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Sunshine Wall : King Pins : Air Guitar (5.10a)
By: Brian Hench When: Mar 16, 2009

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Comments: The victim of the accident was Goran Kropp in 2002. You want to have at least one 3 inch and one 4 inch cam for this route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Romper Room
By: Brian Hench When: Mar 16, 2009

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Comments: The terrace ledge is pretty exposed. Beginners might find it rather uncomfortable. Another way to approach Romper Room is to go up a the canyon a little further than the Lotta Balls fork. Head up a red dirt slope to a bushy ledge and take that left to Romper Room.


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