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Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Childhood's End (5.12- R) : Photo
By: Brian Hansen When: Jun 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: That would be Eric Winkelman. An excellent lead.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Wild : Photo
By: Brian Hansen When: Sep 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Four words:
Gas
Powered
Leaf
Blower
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Ytrid Deed (5.6)
By: Brian Hansen When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Larry has a good point; when did this go from "Dirty Deed" to "Ytrid Deed" and why?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Slave to the Rhythm (5.13b)
By: Brian Hansen When: Jan 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recall that he named one particularly large and white cobble "Skinhead."
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Simians to the Sun (5.9+)
By: Brian Hansen When: Sep 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Bruce Lella, early '80s.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Photo
By: Brian Hansen When: Aug 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ken always looks like that to me. Not sure if it's him or me.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : The Infidel : The Infidel (5.11b/c R) : Photo
By: Brian Hansen When: May 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is a nice photo, and I am betting that it's old. Year please, plus or minus?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Front Porch
By: Brian Hansen When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The summit anchor (slings around a tree) were somewhat lacking today (May 18, 2008). Only two 1" slings with no rings or quick link. Bring a new quick link with you and you can keep the leaver I left behind.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : South Prow (5.7)
By: Brian Hansen When: Sep 10, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: A bivy at Sky Pond works well, though we couldn't find any caves.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Islet In The Sky : Regular Route (5.9+ C3+)
By: Brian Hansen When: Nov 14, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ken, we added at least one bolt to each belay station at your suggestion. They were good bolts for the time (3/8" Star drives with Leeper hangers).
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Spire
By: Brian Hansen When: Aug 24, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone have info on the two new bolted lines on the Spire?
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Sentinel : Fogline (5.10a)
By: Brian Hansen When: Aug 20, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fine route that will be even better when it cleans up a bit.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : South Prow (5.7)
By: Brian Hansen When: Jul 7, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: William, the description of the first pitch in the above write-up sums it up well. We found it pretty easily, without having read this description first. Scramble up the gully on the left side of the prow. A few hundred feet up the gully, a sloping ledge leads out to the right (south). A few tens of feet out to the right on this ledge, there is a big flake with a wide crack behind its left side. This steep portion is about 20-25 feet tall. Climbing the flake provides access to the prow.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Good Evans (5.10d)
By: Brian Hansen When: Jul 7, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm pretty sure the FA was by Eric Winkelman and Ken Trout, mid '80s.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Aquarium Wall : Gish (5.10a)
By: Brian Hansen When: Jun 24, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route in a nice setting. Two stars for sure. Didn't need any supplemental pro; the bolts seemed well placed and not too far apart. It's relatively easy to avoid the obvious loose flake near the eighth bolt. The crux of the climb may be getting your shoes on in the sloping, wet ferns just above the creek. Be careful not to let your pack roll in.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Stonehenge : Thought Control (5.9)
By: Brian Hansen When: Apr 18, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The second set of anchors farther up the ridge that Tony mentions in his Mountaineer's Route description is probably at the top of a west-facing route called Auspice (.11c?), established by Dan Michael in 1987. We used this anchor when establishing Thought Control. The lower anchor for Thought Control was added later.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Standing Rock : The Regular Route (5.11c)
By: Brian Hansen When: Jan 7, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, that occurred to me after posting. Apologies.BH
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Standing Rock : The Regular Route (5.11c)
By: Brian Hansen When: Jan 6, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this as an aid route many moons ago (1987). I seem to recall needing mostly small to moderate gear for the first pitch, a wide variety of things for the second pitch (like a couple of big pieces, 4 friend or so), and then a few small pins for the third pitch. Not sure how the new bolt would affect the aid rating for the third pitch. -Brian Hansen
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Anthill Direct (5.9 R)
By: Brian Hansen When: Dec 3, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is another way to get on Anthill Direct without doing Touch 'n Go or the original first pitch. It used to be called "Variation to the Lower Meadow" but I'm not sure if that name has stuck. It's about 5.6 or so and pretty good quality. Just climb the obvious ramp left of Redguard Route's first pitch for about 100 feet and belay (near where T&G's first pitch comes up). Then angle up and slightly right, over an overhang that is easier than it appears and then straight up to the Lower Mead... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : South East Arete/Second (5.7)
By: Brian Hansen When: Nov 16, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would have to disagree. This is a fine destination climb, given the crowds on nearby rocks. No one is ever on the SE ridge. And what better way to climb the Second, besides scrambling up the descent route?
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