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Member Since: Jun 10, 2011
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Brian Chastain


Point Rank: # 2,909
Total Points: 172
Last Year: 51
Last 30 Days: 4
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brian Chastain been climbing?










Contributions


All 187 | Routes | Areas | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 87 | Posts 8 | Stars 57 | Ratings 18
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon Area : Steve Canyon : ... : Super Roof (5.9)
By: Brian Chastain When: 2 days ago

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Comments: If you like large amounts of bird shit, short routes and more trouble than it is worth................BOOM this is the route for you. I mean, if you live near by and visit the park a lot, do it. If you are coming from out of town, do not waste your time.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : Sphincter Quits (5.9+ R)
By: Brian Chastain When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Really fun climb. If you have climbed enough, making this climb not "R" rated shouldn't be impossible. I put like a #2 or #3 and a sling under the block up on the ledge and felt good with that. !00% confident it would not have gone anywhere if I did fall.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Brewed Awakening (5.11b)
By: Brian Chastain When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: I am a bit torn on grading this. I am not sure if my height (5'8") or not knowing how this was suppose to be started played a roll in the difficulty of this start. I tried climbing directly to the bolt and that was super hard. I made the clip on a small shitty gaston then down climbed to rethink this. Then I ended up going up right of the bolt on crimps; start match, one long left hand move up and then right to a good size hold which made it easy to gain the big flake.

I felt that thi... more >>


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Public Hanging (5.11d)
By: Brian Chastain When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: I followed this and my buddy skipped the fourth bolt until after gaining the big flake above the roof. I found a good knee bar making the 4th bolt clip no big deal as I was able to clean the draw pretty easily.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Trapeze (5.11d) : Photo
By: Brian Chastain When: Jul 22, 2014

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Comments: That was an onsight by the way. Impressive or IMPRESSIVE?


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs : North End Pillars (WI3-4) : Photo
By: Brian Chastain When: Jun 10, 2014

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Comments: Moobs


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Sad Boulders : ... : Chizam (V5)
By: Brian Chastain When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: Repeated this in the 96 degree heat the other day. It was notably harder in that temp.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - East Face : Bearded Cabbage (5.10c)
By: Brian Chastain When: Apr 13, 2014

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Comments: I am a hair under 5'8" and the climb was difficult but not too hard. I barely missed the onsight falling a couple times. My 5' girlfriend did not fair so well :/ haha


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - East Face : Geronimo (5.7)
By: Brian Chastain When: Apr 13, 2014

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Comments: This was fun because we hit it after climbing Deviate (must climb and best approach for Geronimo IMO. I certainly wouldn't go really out of your way to do it unless you taking pics or something. Too short for the trouble alone.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - East Face : Deviate (5.10a)
By: Brian Chastain When: Apr 13, 2014

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Comments: I can't believe how fun this climb turned out to be. Must do for in camp fun. Gets one star, but I say it should get two. One for being super fun and one for being right in camp.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : Disappearing Act (5.10c)
By: Brian Chastain When: Apr 4, 2014

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Comments: Yeah I feel this thing is harder than 10c. I led this last weekend 3/29/14 and had some troubles with it. I had been wanting to do it for a while and it was great. You are never looking at any substantial falls except at the first bolt but that is pretty much standard practice in J-Tree.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hall of Horrors Bouldering : Meadows Boulder : Meadows Direct (V7-)
By: Brian Chastain When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: I'm a shade under 5'8" and the first move was no issue. The second move was proving to be more difficult, but I only gave it about 4-5 goes.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Aiguille de Joshua Tree : Aiguille de Joshua Tree (ak... (5.5 X)
By: Brian Chastain When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: I don't agree with the X. I guess if you fell off the high side for sure. It just seems so improbable to fall off that side (unless you were trying to pimp out your facebook by hanging off that side for a photo and fell)and a fall on the shorter side would certainly not kill you. Perhaps I should revisit the definitions of PG13, R and X. I always thought of X as you can die and R you'll likely break something.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : ... : Photo
By: Brian Chastain When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: I had a run up this when it was blowing stink, sleeting and raining. Talk about puckered up.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hall of Horrors Bouldering : Meadows Boulder : Raspberry (V6)
By: Brian Chastain When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: I used all the holds. Taller folk can definitely chuck for the finish jug but it is still hard that way too. It was also pretty hot this weekend and still went okay. Really GOOD


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hall of Horrors Bouldering : Meadows Boulder : Sloper Safari (V4)
By: Brian Chastain When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: Pretty easy for the grade in J-Tree. Really fun though.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Grand Illusion (5.13b)
By: Brian Chastain When: Jan 31, 2014

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Comments: Arno just shared a photo post on Facebook by Jorgeson. He did it second go placing gear. No discrepancy on rating. Felt compelled to check the route out here on MP after seeing the post. Serious pay grade there.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Planet X Bouldering : The Hang : ... : Strawberry Contraceptives (V7)
By: Brian Chastain When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: I have mixed feelings about the grade on this one. I hate down grading, so I call it 7 minus. I really thought it was pretty easy for the grade in J-Tree. Certainly is a lot easier than Nicole Overhang which comes in a grade easier.

Regardless, it really is a great climb worth every pull.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : Cap Rock : ... : Photo
By: Brian Chastain When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: This is Nobody Walks in LA or Catch a Falling Car, not Catch a Falling Star. CFS follows the diagonal until its end and up one bolt to the anchor.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : Cap Rock : ... : Catch A Falling Star (5.8)
By: Brian Chastain When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: Did this a while back, but I was commenting on Slim Pickings and decided to mention I thought this was a great route too. Straight forward and fun.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : Cap Rock : ... : Slim Pickings (5.10b)
By: Brian Chastain When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: I thought this was a stiff 10b. The protection description is off, but actual description is right. There are three bolts up top on the slab and a bolt anchor. The second bolt is a little ways from bolt three. Not anything crazy for JT standards but could still send you for a good ride. All the clipping stances were pretty tough.....thin and smeary. Very fun though.

And Mr. Stark is right. The start was a real bitch for my girlfriend at 5' tall but no issue for me and I'm 5'8" on a good day.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : Bubble Butt Boulder : Bubble Butt (V7)
By: Brian Chastain When: Jan 13, 2014

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Comments: There is a couple ways to go about this one. None the less, super fun. The climbing up top is not tricky at all and is on jugs for handholds despite what the description says.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Dappled Mare (5.8)
By: Brian Chastain When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: So after turning away from this route countless times we finally got up early and arrived to the parking lot FIRST!

Found the climbing pretty easy. Went via approach pitch, to belay bolts and then to the top. Finished on Bird on a Wire which probably made it more fun but did increased rope drag.

I cannot see how it could be PG13 unless you did the finish of Bird on a Wire as the pro is a little less but climbing isn't too tough.

I would do it again


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Chimney Rock : Chimney Rock - West Face : Break Dancing (5.11a)
By: Brian Chastain When: Dec 9, 2013

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Comments: I thought this was three stars for being fun and right in camp.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Chimney Rock : Chimney Rock - West Face : Damper (5.9)
By: Brian Chastain When: Dec 9, 2013

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Comments: Fun climb. Good way to get warm. If you're 5' like my girlfriend, you'll call it OW. Otherwise it is a wide fist crack. I think I used three pieces...... 3.5", 4" and a 5". You could use 3" way back in there, but your second will have to make the stretch to get them.


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