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Member Since: Nov 13, 2007
Last Visit: Jan 24, 2012
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Point Rank: # 12,440
Total Points: 6
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Areas are worth 15
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Bret Ruckman

 
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All (6) | Routes | Areas | Photos | Comments (6) | Posts | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : State Highway 313 : Sunset Tower (5.8 C2)
By: Bret Ruckman When: Jan 23, 2012

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Comments: On April 20, 2001, Marco Cornacchione was able to free climb Sunset Tower. After working the first pitch on several days, spread out over perhaps a year, he was able to put his project "to rest". He "French freed" the first pitch, then top-roped it, then pulled the rope and led it clean, placing all gear on lead in perfect style. If I recall, it had a thin bit at the crack switch which was the technical crux, and required some critical face holds. Above that section was a perfect off-fingers spl... more >>


Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Photo
By: Bret Ruckman When: Mar 30, 2011

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Comments: Nice photo Jim! Say hi to Coats Bros. for me. B.R.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : Sparks of the Tempest (5.11)
By: Bret Ruckman When: Mar 28, 2011

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Comments: Thanks for the anchor upgrade John. That was the cheapo way we used to set things up, saving on the cost of bolt hangers. Now, looking back, it seems like pennies we were saving, but back then it was a couple of burrito dinners!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Warlock
By: Bret Ruckman When: Jan 12, 2010

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Comments: Marco Cornacchione was able to free climb "Dude, That's Not Funny" back on Oct.26, 1997. We nicknamed that trip the "cruel crusade" because we were constantly getting bouted by the weather--snow, wind and cold the whole time, except for the clear and cold day that we climbed this route. On the previous chilly day, after we climbed the Caldron, I got on the first pitch of "Dude" and checked out whether it could go free or not. A huge wedge-shaped block guarded the crux. We decided to add a bolt,... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Stage Fright (5.11a)
By: Bret Ruckman When: Aug 28, 2008

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Comments: The other day I led the thrilling left finish (that Joe mentioned above), thinking that was the normal route. It was probably mid-5.11 and kind of spicy, but high quality.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrut... (5.11b)
By: Bret Ruckman When: Nov 13, 2007

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Comments: John, thanks for sharing the story behind the name "Dizzy Miss Lizzy". I'm okay with keeping that original name for this fun route.