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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Bruise Brothers Wall : Rat Stew (5.10a)
By: Brent Kelly When: Apr 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Especially up towards the chains, there is a lot of chossy blocks and flakes just to the right of this line...
Not necessarily an immediate danger to anyone on route, but if someone wanted to spend a few minutes safely trundling some big choss blocks, might be valuable. Small chance one of those might spontaneously shake free and take out my belayer in some freak accident is the only thing that has me mentioning.
Recommend you run any plans by the Webers/FOMV first.
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Location: TX : Paradise on the Brazos : Shuttle Cave : Columbia (5.12b)
By: Brent Kelly When: Feb 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA - Kelley Chin in 2003
Bolted by Mark Hyde
"He spotted the line when it looked like total choss." - Kelley Chin about Mark Hyde
Jimmy Ray's Guidebook also lists Fred Mitchel as a member of the FA/FFA/bolting team
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Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall : Yertle the Turtle (5.12a)
By: Brent Kelly When: Jan 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: crux at the top was fighting the pump, but that wasn't the crux move...
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Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : T-Roofic Wall : Fearless (5.10a)
By: Brent Kelly When: Jan 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: tricky and kinda sketchy start to wandering jug haul.
climbs mostly the right side of a very wide dihedral
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Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : T-Roofic Wall : T-Roofic Detour (5.10d)
By: Brent Kelly When: Jan 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 'Tufa' described above is either missing, or a poor description. The start of the route looks more like a big slide, big slab of not very steep limestone.
Otherwise, awesome route with big fun moves separated by good rests... kinda like four "one-move-wonders" stacked on top of each other.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Stumbling Blocks
By: Brent Kelly When: Dec 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Visited the area for the first time yesterday, using the MP iphone app, and it was still very hard to determine which route was which. Even other climbers who claimed to climb there often weren't really sure what they were climbing.
Given the way people reference Guerilla Drilla and Chopping Block, some better descriptions of these route locations and some quality beta photos would be high-value, if any locals could provide for the community. Thanks!
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Stumbling Blocks
By: Brent Kelly When: Dec 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Visited the area for the first time yesterday, using the MP iphone app, and it was still very hard to determine which route was which. Even other climbers who claimed to climb there often weren't really sure what they were climbing.
Given the way people reference Guerilla Drilla and Chopping Block, some better descriptions of these route locations and some quality beta photos would be high-value, if any locals could provide for the community. Thanks!
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Stumbling Blocks : Monkey Mayhem (5.5)
By: Brent Kelly When: Dec 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Also, catches afternoon sun about halfway up.
Looked like a nice ledge above the chains. Would be fun to belay from above and have lunch. Great view.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Stumbling Blocks : Monkey Mayhem (5.5)
By: Brent Kelly When: Dec 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: AS OF 12/28/2011
Anchor chains and bolts in fairly good condition.
Sport clips. Currently worn 2/5 through, 3/5 remaining. (Toprope from you own gear, of course.)
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Stumbling Blocks : Monkey Mayhem (5.5)
By: Brent Kelly When: Dec 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: LOCATION
The route is on your left as you scramble up into the pseduo-canyon. Scramble up an exposed (30 ft tumble if you slip) mini-ledge to the first bolt. The route starts directly up from the right edge gulley of the belay ledge.
BEWARE
Pretty easy and decently fun BUT you definitely want to be attentive on this route.
I knocked off two baseball sized pieces of choss on a casual lead, narrowly missing my belayer. One actually hit her foot. Be attentive.
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Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Crankenstein : Gang Bang (5.11a)
By: Brent Kelly When: Feb 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Large flake at start of the route has broken, route no longer appears to be a moderate. Looks harder, and a bit chossy.
Never climbed it before the alleged break, haven't tried it after the alleged break, so this is hearsay.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : First Impressions (5.9)
By: Brent Kelly When: Aug 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Slightly loose large block at the top of the dihedral.
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