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Tequila Sunrise, Maverick Buttress - Moab UT


Member Since: Apr 20, 2010
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
Contact Brent Butler


Point Rank: # 7,763
Total Points: 31
Last Year: 12
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (475) | Routes | Areas | Photos (3) | Comments (16) | Posts (15) | Stars (341) | Ratings (100)
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Early morning line up for Ancient art on a weekend

Early morning line up for Ancient art on a weekend

Climbing Photos & Videos : Great climbing pictures you... : Post

Feb 26, 2013

Veda-whooooo

Veda-whooooo

Climbing Photos & Videos : Great climbing pictures you... : Post

Feb 26, 2013

Tequila Sunrise, Maverick Buttress - Moab UT

Tequila Sunrise, Maverick Buttress - Moab UT

Brent Butler : climbin

Jun 8, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale Gorge : R of Lochluster (WI4-)
By: Brent Butler When: Dec 30, 2013

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Comments: This route is in quite different conditions then the pics on this page - it's very fat. You can head out left as implied by this route description, or stick to the right where the curtains (in the pics) have formed a nice, steep pillar. It's getting a little hacked out now though.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale Gorge : Rock, Wood, Ice (WI5- R)
By: Brent Butler When: Dec 30, 2013

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Comments: The log is no longer propped up. Instead I traversed in from the right along a rail, then pulled up on a few tiny edges before reaching solid hooks just below the ice. Pretty fun, but lacking in the feet area.


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Marry Me, Becky (5.10)
By: Brent Butler When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: Not a bad route at all. Fun flair climbing up high. Only bummer is the 1st crux is right off the ground, and the higher crux is right off a ledge.


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Bone Collector aka Bone Cru... (5.12b/c)
By: Brent Butler When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: This crack is definitely one of the best of the Front Range. Right up there with CCC, Arms Bazaar, Wunsch's, etc. It is REALLY good.


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Frank's Tame Years (5.11a)
By: Brent Butler When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: Another hidden gem at this off-the-beaten-path crag.


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Frank's Wild Years (5.11)
By: Brent Butler When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: The bottom portion of this route is VERY good. Great, sustained finger locks. The top portion is also pretty fun but leaves a little to be desired because of the ledge. This is definitely an area classic, one of the best cracks @ the grade in the Front Range for sure.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Brown Wall : Chocolate Thunder (5.12a)
By: Brent Butler When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: I broke a hold @ 6th bolt. Probably not any more difficult now though. Sweet gnar the whole way.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Dynamometer (5.11b)
By: Brent Butler When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: Take a #1 c4 for the horizontal. A lot of the route is 5.9. The crux though felt harder then 11b to me, but I didnt even consider a dyno - I crimped hard out left. In hindsight now with the information given above, a dyno or deadpoint seems much more appropriate here.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Andrology (5.11d)
By: Brent Butler When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: This is an awesome pitch, clean and continuous climbing. I wouldn't call it sustained though: a lot of 5.10 climbing interrupted by a 11c lower crux and then the 12a crux right at the last 2 closely spaced bolts. The bolts are spaced out, but they are where they need to be. Because of this though, I would offer a warning to most of today's "5.12 sport" climbers: this isn't Movement.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Gates of Eden (5.10a)
By: Brent Butler When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: Less of a struggle then I expected. A solid knee bar off the ground kept the bottom overhang at 5.10-. Small and varied sizes in the back of the crack allow one to leave the doubles behind.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Song of the Dodo (5.12a R)
By: Brent Butler When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: The lower crux could maybe be 11b if one stayed true to the dihedral. I chose to step right, and it appears as though this is the commonly followed path. This way it feels about 10+.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Dynosaur (5.12c)
By: Brent Butler When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: Nathan, what do you suggest for a correction?

As I remember it, there isn't much of an opportunity to clip a bolt between the current 1st and 2nd. Sure this creates a bit of a hazard, but even if there was a supplementary bolt, I'd probably skip it since it would be mid-crux, and as for getting to the 3rd? It's 4th class relative to what you just climbed through... don't fall off the giant buckets.

On the other hand, I wouldn't be totally opposed to another bolt in the upper portion past the... more >>


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : When the Whip Comes Down (5.11d)
By: Brent Butler When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: A great route that seems to rarely see traffic. I didn't do much stemming and instead opted for crimpy lieback. The slab above is very enjoyable with a balancy redpoint crux coming right before the top shelf.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Heaven Can Wait (5.10)
By: Brent Butler When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: Beta spray warning: The crux at the bottom is very difficult for 10+, but then after about 10 ft, it is maybe 9- climbing to the anchors. The top protection is far from great. After the pod at mid route that will take an ok cam, all I found was very small but textbook RP placement and then a terrible mid-sized stopper for 2nd half of the route. I would suggest hopeful on-sighters be solid at scary 5.9 slab.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Los Hermanos de la Weenie W... (5.11c) : Photo
By: Brent Butler When: Oct 12, 2010

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Comments: Nice! I've thought about giving this technique a try several times. Ballsy!


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Candy Apple Grey (5.10b)
By: Brent Butler When: Aug 9, 2010

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Comments: If this is a 10, it is by far the stiffest 10 in the canyon. The bulge was the crux for me, not the slab bottom. Maybe it's very height-dependent, but I had to hang on the last bolt. Then I walked over and easily sent Brown Sugar. I agree with the previous comment about this entire wall being sandbagged.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Ice partner/teacher wantedColorado & Rocky Mountain RegionBrent ButlerDec 17, 2013
re: AT Boots -favorite brandClimbing Gear DiscussionBrent ButlerSep 11, 2013
re: Best Mulipitch Rope?Climbing Gear DiscussionBrent ButlerAug 22, 2013
re: Partner Needed - Red Rock: Solar Slab (Tue. 8-6-13)NevadaBrent ButlerJul 23, 2013
re: Guiding companies in the SE?Southern StatesBrent ButlerMay 31, 2013
re: Bouldering locations near CreedeColorado & Rocky Mountain RegionBrent ButlerMay 27, 2013
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