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Member Since: Apr 20, 2010
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Brent Butler


Point Rank: # 7,767
Total Points: 38
Last Year: 14
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brent Butler been climbing?










Contributions


All 580 | Routes | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 18 | Posts 27 | Stars 418 | Ratings 113
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
profile pic.

profile pic.

Brent Butler : climbin

Jul 14, 2014

Early morning line up for Ancient art on a weekend

Early morning line up for Ancient art on a weekend

Climbing Photos & Videos : Great climbing pictures you... : Post

Feb 26, 2013

Veda-whooooo

Veda-whooooo

Climbing Photos & Videos : Great climbing pictures you... : Post

Feb 26, 2013

Tequila Sunrise, Maverick Buttress - Moab UT

Tequila Sunrise, Maverick Buttress - Moab UT

Brent Butler : climbin

Jun 8, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : High Variance (5.12b)
By: Brent Butler When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: I'll add to what Aaron commented on:

To get to the base of the route, we fixed two 70s from the Rainbow Highway anchor (be set up and prepared for a free hanging knot pass). Then there are a couple of slung horns from which you could use a single 60 to get to the grassy ledges atop the 1st pitch (good idea to bring some tat to replace what is there). It would then be very feasible to simply leave an anchor behind, or find another horn to sling to make another rap to the base of the 1st pitch (w... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+)
By: Brent Butler When: Jul 8, 2014

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Comments: The top anchor is now exposed. Still plenty of snow on ledges though.

Top two pitches are plenty wet still.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale Gorge : R of Lochluster (WI4-)
By: Brent Butler When: Dec 30, 2013

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Comments: This route is in quite different conditions then the pics on this page - it's very fat. You can head out left as implied by this route description, or stick to the right where the curtains (in the pics) have formed a nice, steep pillar. It's getting a little hacked out now though.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale Gorge : Rock, Wood, Ice (WI5- R)
By: Brent Butler When: Dec 30, 2013

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Comments: The log is no longer propped up. Instead I traversed in from the right along a rail, then pulled up on a few tiny edges before reaching solid hooks just below the ice. Pretty fun, but lacking in the feet area.


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Marry Me, Becky (5.10)
By: Brent Butler When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: Not a bad route at all. Fun flair climbing up high. Only bummer is the 1st crux is right off the ground, and the higher crux is right off a ledge.


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Bone Collector aka Bone Cru... (5.12b/c)
By: Brent Butler When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: This crack is definitely one of the best of the Front Range. Right up there with CCC, Arms Bazaar, Wunsch's, etc. It is REALLY good.


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Frank's Tame Years (5.11a)
By: Brent Butler When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: Another hidden gem at this off-the-beaten-path crag.


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Frank's Wild Years (5.11)
By: Brent Butler When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: The bottom portion of this route is VERY good. Great, sustained finger locks. The top portion is also pretty fun but leaves a little to be desired because of the ledge. This is definitely an area classic, one of the best cracks @ the grade in the Front Range for sure.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Brown Wall : Chocolate Thunder (5.12a)
By: Brent Butler When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: I broke a hold @ 6th bolt. Probably not any more difficult now though. Sweet gnar the whole way.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Dynamometer (5.11b)
By: Brent Butler When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: Take a #1 c4 for the horizontal. A lot of the route is 5.9. The crux though felt harder then 11b to me, but I didnt even consider a dyno - I crimped hard out left. In hindsight now with the information given above, a dyno or deadpoint seems much more appropriate here.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Andrology (5.11d)
By: Brent Butler When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: This is an awesome pitch, clean and continuous climbing. I wouldn't call it sustained though: a lot of 5.10 climbing interrupted by a 11c lower crux and then the 12a crux right at the last 2 closely spaced bolts. The bolts are spaced out, but they are where they need to be. Because of this though, I would offer a warning to most of today's "5.12 sport" climbers: this isn't Movement.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Gates of Eden (5.10a)
By: Brent Butler When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: Less of a struggle then I expected. A solid knee bar off the ground kept the bottom overhang at 5.10-. Small and varied sizes in the back of the crack allow one to leave the doubles behind.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Song of the Dodo (5.12a R)
By: Brent Butler When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: The lower crux could maybe be 11b if one stayed true to the dihedral. I chose to step right, and it appears as though this is the commonly followed path. This way it feels about 10+.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Dynosaur (5.12c)
By: Brent Butler When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: Nathan, what do you suggest for a correction?

As I remember it, there isn't much of an opportunity to clip a bolt between the current 1st and 2nd. Sure this creates a bit of a hazard, but even if there was a supplementary bolt, I'd probably skip it since it would be mid-crux, and as for getting to the 3rd? It's 4th class relative to what you just climbed through... don't fall off the giant buckets.

On the other hand, I wouldn't be totally opposed to another bolt in the upper portion past the... more >>


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : When the Whip Comes Down (5.11d)
By: Brent Butler When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: A great route that seems to rarely see traffic. I didn't do much stemming and instead opted for crimpy lieback. The slab above is very enjoyable with a balancy redpoint crux coming right before the top shelf.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Heaven Can Wait (5.10)
By: Brent Butler When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: Beta spray warning: The crux at the bottom is very difficult for 10+, but then after about 10 ft, it is maybe 9- climbing to the anchors. The top protection is far from great. After the pod at mid route that will take an ok cam, all I found was very small but textbook RP placement and then a terrible mid-sized stopper for 2nd half of the route. I would suggest hopeful on-sighters be solid at scary 5.9 slab.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Los Hermanos de la Weenie W... (5.11c) : Photo
By: Brent Butler When: Oct 12, 2010

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Comments: Nice! I've thought about giving this technique a try several times. Ballsy!


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Candy Apple Grey (5.10b)
By: Brent Butler When: Aug 9, 2010

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Comments: If this is a 10, it is by far the stiffest 10 in the canyon. The bulge was the crux for me, not the slab bottom. Maybe it's very height-dependent, but I had to hang on the last bolt. Then I walked over and easily sent Brown Sugar. I agree with the previous comment about this entire wall being sandbagged.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Convince Me to Buy Half Ropes Or... NotGeneral ClimbingBrent ButlerOct 30, 2014
re: Beginner back country in ColoradoOther SportsBrent ButlerAug 19, 2014
re: Beginner back country in ColoradoOther SportsBrent ButlerAug 16, 2014
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