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Me and Spearhead


Member Since: Oct 20, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Brent Apgar


Point Rank: # 3,242
Total Points: 140
Last Year: 14
Last 30 Days: 10
0 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brent Apgar been climbing?










Contributions


All 1489 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 8 | Page Improvments | Comments 80 | Posts 619 | Stars 780 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Thunder Point : Sunset Arete (5.11d)
By: Brent Apgar When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: I agree w/ Aeon. The route has cleaned up quite a bit and is actually very fun. This route legitimately goes straight up the "face" of the arete until the very top.
A little dusty from not having much traffic but totally worth the effort.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: Brent Apgar When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: TFB - Thanks for taking the time to post up a full disclosure on the history of the route.
Well played on giving CW the option to take it up a notch, I hope he's psyched enough to do so.

My junkshow comment was not meant to demean your effort but as a reference to the deteriorating condition of the route, since it has sat neglected for so many years.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Love Route (5.9)
By: Brent Apgar When: Jul 27, 2013

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Comments: My 3 stars are contingent on 1) linking into the Love Route from Better Than Love and 2) that the last pitch of the route is dry.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: Brent Apgar When: Jul 26, 2013

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Comments: Truly amazing, this thread in the route description is the most attention this thing has seen in the last 2 decades.

I'll let Weidner's resume and reputation speak for themselves.
Thanks, Chris, for taking the effort to turn this ignored, junkshow into a nice addition to the Canyon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Let's Jet (5.10d)
By: Brent Apgar When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: Pleasantly surprised by this one, and the rock was better/cleaner than it looked from the ground.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Monkey Face : Monkey Space (5.11b) : Photo
By: Brent Apgar When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: Super cool pic. The view straight down the west face from that point at the end of the traverse is... just one of those things you have to experience.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Wing Ding (5.10c)
By: Brent Apgar When: Sep 23, 2012

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Comments: As of the date listed on this post, both bolt hangers and chains are back in place at the anchors.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : ... : Photo
By: Brent Apgar When: Sep 9, 2012

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Comments: Stunning photo, very cool.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Route Fluffer (5.11a/b)
By: Brent Apgar When: Aug 19, 2012

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Comments: Agree that the top has some junky rock. It seemed contrived NOT to head right into the obvious flake system, there's great holds that take you directly into it.
Surprisingly the rock through the mini-overlap before the final dihedral is quite solid.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Phat City : Mill and Main (5.10b)
By: Brent Apgar When: Jul 9, 2012

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Comments: You may want to consider either sticking the 1st bolt or anchoring your belayer as a leader fall would take both parties for at least a 30 footer off the side of the cliff into the talus at the base.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Wild Child (5.11c)
By: Brent Apgar When: Jun 10, 2012

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Comments: The route has cleaned up nicely. The only disturbingly loose rocks were a couple of large blocks in the roof starting the 3rd pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Magician (5.9)
By: Brent Apgar When: Apr 22, 2012

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Comments: Maybe the L hand start is better. But I thought that climbing up the line to the right side of the bolts was more than a little sketchy. Not so much that there's loose rock, more like there's huge sections where everything is simply decomposing.

So long story short, it's not really cleaned up. There's even loose flakes/holds from the last ledge to the chains.
Just a heads up.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Across from The Bihedral ak... : Unknown 11 aka Lightning St... (5.11) : Photo
By: Brent Apgar When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: Not sure, but if the edge on the right is off then I'd also say that underclinging the flake is also off.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Android Tilt (5.10b)
By: Brent Apgar When: Mar 11, 2012

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Comments: No one had mentioned it. But there is a 2 bolt anchor w/ chains at the top of this route. At least as of March 2012.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cash Wall : Awethu (5.6)
By: Brent Apgar When: Mar 4, 2012

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Comments: This is probably one of the better routes I've seen @ Shelf to throw a brand new leader on. Except for the bottom of the route that had a little dirt from runoff, the rock is solid and there are tons of holds everywhere.
Certainly not a classic, but given the options at Shelf for learning to lead outside, it's nice that someone put a route like this up.

I also have no idea why Jeff gave this thing a PG-13 rating. If you're average height, you can literally direct aid from one bolt the next if ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : ... : Photo
By: Brent Apgar When: Feb 20, 2012

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Comments: Nice shot. That angle makes the route look like it's as long as you wish it were.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Aggro Gully : Toxic (5.11b) : Photo
By: Brent Apgar When: Dec 12, 2011

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Comments: That's what I thought. If you're not exceedingly short and have any kind of ape index the move to the jug goes statically w/ a toe or heel in the rail out right.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Chain Reaction (5.12c) : Photo
By: Brent Apgar When: Aug 30, 2011

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Comments: Yes, Darkness at Noon is pretty freak'n awesome.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Directissima (5.10b)
By: Brent Apgar When: Jul 24, 2011

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Comments: As of 23 July 2011 there are still 3 fixed #4s in the chimney on the 3rd pitch.
I'd have to agree w/ the previous comments that a couple of old #3.5s would be perfect on the chimney, though I don't know what a new #4 would be like by comparison on the same section.

An unbelievable route.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Climb of the Ancient Marine... (5.10a)
By: Brent Apgar When: Jun 27, 2011

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Comments: A big thank you to RR for creating an amazing 2nd pitch straight up the slab.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Grapevine (5.8+)
By: Brent Apgar When: Jun 13, 2011

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Comments: The 3 stars is for the really fun chimney. The rest of the route makes for a nice day out, but the 2nd pitch definitely makes Grapevine worth the walk.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Rambo Santa (5.7)
By: Brent Apgar When: Jun 6, 2011

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Comments: Definitely a big thank you to whomever replaced the old hardware. The route is sporting brand new bolts and a nice anchor w/ rap rings.


Location: IsaiahZ : Random Pics : Photo
By: Brent Apgar When: May 25, 2011

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Comments: Sweet, I've never personally been at the Tree when there's been that kind of snow on the ground.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Shipwreck Wall : Fish N' Chips (5.10c)
By: Brent Apgar When: May 14, 2011

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Comments: Psyched to see this one added to the data base, it's definitely worth the walk.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Strange Cargo (5.11a)
By: Brent Apgar When: Apr 2, 2011

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Comments: Have to give it four stars for last pitch. Super fun route, thanks, RR.


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