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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : The Scoop Area : Master of Disaster (V5)
By: BrendanP When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: May have been on the wrong problem, but the underclings seem pretty distinct.... This problem was reachy for sure, but no way was it a V5 unless we were doing something totally wrong.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : The Scoop Area : The Scoop (V5)
By: BrendanP When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Firing straight up the roof is a little reachy and a bit scary but fully worth it. End this excellent problem with a bang!
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : The Hurricane (5.12a/b)
By: BrendanP When: Mar 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super clean, thin, sustained, and so so good. After a dozen trips to Shelf, this may still be my favorite route.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Legend on the Fall (5.12a/b)
By: BrendanP When: Mar 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Just believe" is so appropriate for the lower crux - even after finally figuring it out, it still felt like I had missed a crucial hold. Unbelievably thin and pretty frustrating. The upper section drops back down into hard 5.11 territory with great moves the whole way, so don't be discouraged if you're stuck at the crux!
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Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Bubble Boyz (5.12a)
By: BrendanP When: Jan 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: From the ground seems like a squeeze job but actually very fun and thoughtfully bolted. Climbing is VERY similar to Stone Groovin, the 11d just to the right (which is every bit as hard)
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Monet (5.11d)
By: BrendanP When: Oct 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Try going left after the bush instead of right.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : Southeast Face : Greatest Route (5.8)
By: BrendanP When: Sep 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well-protected, but the cracks are mostly flared which can make placements slightly tricky.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : ... : Photo
By: BrendanP When: Sep 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool picture, but pretty sure this is Karma Mechanic. Castrator is much farther north along the wall.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Phase Dance (5.12-)
By: BrendanP When: Sep 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hitting the crux in sequence is very difficult, a take/fall at bolt eight lets you cheat the beta pretty hard.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Leviathan (5.11d)
By: BrendanP When: Sep 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Neat route. The crux is very thin and discouraging (where are the holds?), but visibility is good and the sequence isn't hard to derive - perhaps being taller helps through the (nearly) no-hands high-steps.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Divination Direct (5.12a)
By: BrendanP When: Aug 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route by accident, was a little baffled at first that everybody thought the roof sections were cruxy given the much pumpier and more sustained climbing down low - now I know the full story. Thanks for the direct start, it adds quality to an already excellent route.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+) : Photo
By: BrendanP When: Aug 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the coolest climbing photos I have ever seen. This belongs above "September" in a full-page calendar photo, it would conjure epic stoke for the Fall.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Devil (5.11d)
By: BrendanP When: Jul 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Worrying about what's "on" or "off" is only going to tarnish the quality of this route, just pick the line that you like best and fire away! Searching out the easiest holds puts the grade on the easy side of 11 for sure.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Eliminator Boulder : Corner Lunge (V1)
By: BrendanP When: Jul 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For all the crap this shorty half-problem gets, if you're new to bouldering it might just be your first sensible heel hook, and even after ticking problems on all three remaining sides of Eliminator it still feels pretty darn good to click into that huge, loving crimp.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon
By: BrendanP When: Jul 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are apparently bad rock/mud slides by the road near Mish and the tunnel due to poor soil conditions after the fire. We climbed Crystal Wall today but parked at Mish and walked the rest of the way - worked out for us, but the Arapahoe Ranger Station said that everything from Grey Rock to the Narrows is still totally closed to climbing. Climb at your own risk, some people have apparently seen pretty stiff tickets for parking by the Palace.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : Southwest Alcove : Ballet of the Bulge (5.11b)
By: BrendanP When: Jul 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Delicate and dynamic moves, the only regret I have is that it was so short! It's fun to watch people hit this route too, it really does look like a ballet....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Dreamed Up (V9-10)
By: BrendanP When: Jul 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have spent at least ten seconds staring in awe at this problem every time I've visited Dream. If only I were strong enough to send it! If it is the boulder I'm thinking of (pics?), the landing is not dangerous per se but also not ideal - there's another large boulder behind you the whole way up and the dirt beneath is flooded by early summer.
Still, it looks totally ill.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Magical Chrome Plated Semi-... (5.7)
By: BrendanP When: Jun 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you choose to exit to the right of the butt on the final pitch, depending on your gear placements, you risk getting the rope stuck underneath the big flake/layback crux item about 20 feet off the ground. We may have been a tad off route, although this took us just 20 feet or so to the left of the rap bolts. We got the rope really stuck, no amount of shaking from either side would free it up, and ultimately the leader had to lower down to it, free it, and prussik up after switching around some... more >>
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : Tour de Poudre (5.12b/c)
By: BrendanP When: May 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just climbed the first pitch yesterday, and the first bolt came out with no effort. It was one of the older bolts at the bottom of the climb. You could probably run it out and go to the second bolt if you feel strong but just a fair warning. I know nothing about safe bolting - maybe somebody else could patch her up?
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Palace Pages : Dear Slabby (5.11b)
By: BrendanP When: Jan 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic route, one of the finest of the grade at Palace. As for rockfall, as long as your leader stays on route it feels pretty clean, and not sure if it's been retrobolted at all, but the falls are very tidy and don't really seem to risk striking the lower flake at any point. But that's me.
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