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Bringing the 90s to 2012 at Smith with an old Canon and poor footwork


Member Since: Jul 25, 2011
Last Visit: Aug 20, 2014
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Point Rank: # 5,310
Total Points: 67
Last Year: 12
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 186 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 6 | Page Improvments | Comments 27 | Posts 6 | Stars 76 | Ratings 70
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Eden area : The Eden Wall : Garden Of Eden (5.11a)
By: BrendanP When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: Maybe the coolest single mixed pitch I've done thus far. I found the last couple of moves hard enough to protect that I ended up running it out. Pretty exciting! But I came up just slightly left of the anchors, which may not have been the best way....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Politically Incorrect (5.10c)
By: BrendanP When: Nov 28, 2013

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Comments: At the top crux, the decent holds are obscured by a manic spatter of shitty semi-pockets, which for me turned the last two bolts into a miserable grovel. Not really hard for the grade, just hard to read. The guidebook doesn't lie when it says the moves are intensely varied, and for this I do give it some credit.

My partner loved it, guess I'm the oddball here.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : New Ethics (5.12a)
By: BrendanP When: Nov 28, 2013

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Comments: Don't let the shitty bushwhacking through the first bolt turn you off of this route. The mantle right at the start is really cool and the upper section, while hard to read, makes for some great movement.

P.S. During the mantle, it kinda seems like you could deck on the big ledge below if you blow itů but rest assured that we blew this move several times and all was well.

P.P.S. Pretty sure FA: Bob D'Antonio.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Man Hands (5.10d)
By: BrendanP When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: The seam is okay (kind of weird), but the crack above is pure joy. If that crack were longer, it would be 4 stars.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Wipeyur Buttress : Snapping Station (5.12a)
By: BrendanP When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: Don't be discouraged by the first fifteen feet or so of loose stuff, the moves above will give you the best kind of amnesia. Some thoughtful bolt-skipping will help through the first crux as well as help to reduce rope drag above - be safe!


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Hunky Monkey (5.11b/c)
By: BrendanP When: Aug 3, 2013

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Comments: As of Aug. 2, it is pretty easy to keep your shoes and rope dry through p1 with a wee bit of traversing in the beginning, but any pulling of your rope if you choose to rap down will certainly get it soaked. Have fun!


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Variation to Hunky Monkey (5.11d)
By: BrendanP When: Aug 3, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for posting, we climbed this route betaless and so we weren't sure exactly which variation we'd done.

Last two pitches brought out some technical, smeary stems that felt insecure but are very well-protected and fun. The trick to the fourth pitch crux is to be tall, but my partner (shorty) somehow pulled through it with some invisi-crimp micro-pinch bullshit. Whatever works, I guess.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : The Scoop Area : Master of Disaster (V5)
By: BrendanP When: Mar 30, 2013

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Comments: May have been on the wrong problem, but the underclings seem pretty distinct.... This problem was reachy for sure, but no way was it a V5 unless we were doing something totally wrong.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : The Scoop Area : The Scoop (V5)
By: BrendanP When: Mar 30, 2013

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Comments: Firing straight up the roof is a little reachy and a bit scary but fully worth it. End this excellent problem with a bang!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : The Hurricane (5.12a/b)
By: BrendanP When: Mar 27, 2013

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Comments: Super clean, thin, sustained, and so so good. After a dozen trips to Shelf, this may still be my favorite route.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Legend on the Fall (5.12a/b)
By: BrendanP When: Mar 27, 2013

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Comments: "Just believe" is so appropriate for the lower crux - even after finally figuring it out, it still felt like I had missed a crucial hold. Unbelievably thin and pretty frustrating. The upper section drops back down into hard 5.11 territory with great moves the whole way, so don't be discouraged if you're stuck at the crux!


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Bubble Boyz (5.12a)
By: BrendanP When: Jan 18, 2013

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Comments: From the ground seems like a squeeze job but actually very fun and thoughtfully bolted. Climbing is VERY similar to Stone Groovin, the 11d just to the right (which is every bit as hard)


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Monet (5.11d)
By: BrendanP When: Oct 30, 2012

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Comments: Try going left after the bush instead of right.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : Southeast Face : Greatest Route (5.8)
By: BrendanP When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: Well-protected, but the cracks are mostly flared which can make placements slightly tricky.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : ... : Photo
By: BrendanP When: Sep 9, 2012

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Comments: Cool picture, but pretty sure this is Karma Mechanic. Castrator is much farther north along the wall.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Phase Dance (5.12-)
By: BrendanP When: Sep 9, 2012

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Comments: Hitting the crux in sequence is very difficult, a take/fall at bolt eight lets you cheat the beta pretty hard.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Leviathan (5.11d)
By: BrendanP When: Sep 1, 2012

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Comments: Neat route. The crux is very thin and discouraging (where are the holds?), but visibility is good and the sequence isn't hard to derive - perhaps being taller helps through the (nearly) no-hands high-steps.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Divination Direct (5.12a)
By: BrendanP When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: Did this route by accident, was a little baffled at first that everybody thought the roof sections were cruxy given the much pumpier and more sustained climbing down low - now I know the full story. Thanks for the direct start, it adds quality to an already excellent route.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+) : Photo
By: BrendanP When: Aug 2, 2012

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Comments: This is one of the coolest climbing photos I have ever seen. This belongs above "September" in a full-page calendar photo, it would conjure epic stoke for the Fall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Devil (5.11d)
By: BrendanP When: Jul 19, 2012

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Comments: Worrying about what's "on" or "off" is only going to tarnish the quality of this route, just pick the line that you like best and fire away! Searching out the easiest holds puts the grade on the easy side of 11 for sure.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Eliminator Boulder : Corner Lunge (V1)
By: BrendanP When: Jul 17, 2012

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Comments: For all the crap this shorty half-problem gets, if you're new to bouldering it might just be your first sensible heel hook, and even after ticking problems on all three remaining sides of Eliminator it still feels pretty darn good to click into that huge, loving crimp.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon
By: BrendanP When: Jul 10, 2012

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Comments: There are apparently bad rock/mud slides by the road near Mish and the tunnel due to poor soil conditions after the fire. We climbed Crystal Wall today but parked at Mish and walked the rest of the way - worked out for us, but the Arapahoe Ranger Station said that everything from Grey Rock to the Narrows is still totally closed to climbing. Climb at your own risk, some people have apparently seen pretty stiff tickets for parking by the Palace.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : Southwest Alcove : Ballet of the Bulge (5.11b)
By: BrendanP When: Jul 10, 2012

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Comments: Delicate and dynamic moves, the only regret I have is that it was so short! It's fun to watch people hit this route too, it really does look like a ballet....


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Dreamed Up (V9-10)
By: BrendanP When: Jul 1, 2012

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Comments: I have spent at least ten seconds staring in awe at this problem every time I've visited Dream. If only I were strong enough to send it! If it is the boulder I'm thinking of (pics?), the landing is not dangerous per se but also not ideal - there's another large boulder behind you the whole way up and the dirt beneath is flooded by early summer.

Still, it looks totally ill.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Magical Chrome Plated Semi-... (5.7)
By: BrendanP When: Jun 6, 2012

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Comments: If you choose to exit to the right of the butt on the final pitch, depending on your gear placements, you risk getting the rope stuck underneath the big flake/layback crux item about 20 feet off the ground. We may have been a tad off route, although this took us just 20 feet or so to the left of the rap bolts. We got the rope really stuck, no amount of shaking from either side would free it up, and ultimately the leader had to lower down to it, free it, and prussik up after switching around some... more >>


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