Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Bringing the 90s to 2012 at Smith with an old Canon and poor footwork


Member Since: Jul 25, 2011
Last Visit: Sep 24, 2014
Contact BrendanP


Point Rank: # 5,433
Total Points: 67
Last Year: 12
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has BrendanP been climbing?










Contributions


All 186 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 6 | Page Improvements | Comments 27 | Posts 6 | Stars 76 | Ratings 70
Page 1 of 8.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Stone Groovin'

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 105'

North America : Mexico : ... : Mota Wall

Jan 18, 2013

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Early mantle.

Early mantle.

CO : Shelf Road : ... : New Ethics (5.12a)

Nov 28, 2013

lazy slackline anchor

lazy slackline anchor

General Climbing : Girth hitch thing for a laz...

Nov 28, 2012

Bringing the 90s to 2012 at Smith with an old Canon and poor footwork

Bringing the 90s to 2012 at Smith with an old Canon and poor footwork

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Screaming Yellow Zonkers (5.10b)

Nov 2, 2012

A beautiful summer day at Smith

A beautiful summer day at Smith

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Moons of Pluto (5.10d)

Nov 2, 2012

Peter J. destroying the crux.

Peter J. destroying the crux.

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Ballet of the Bulge (5.11b)

Jul 10, 2012

J. Stock cruising to the top of the first pitch - a beautiful line full of balance and variety.

J. Stock cruising to the top of the first pitch - a beautiful line full of balance and variety.

CO : Boulder : ... : Hunky Monkey (5.11b/c)

Jun 10, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Eden area : The Eden Wall : Garden Of Eden (5.11a)
By: BrendanP When: Apr 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Maybe the coolest single mixed pitch I've done thus far. I found the last couple of moves hard enough to protect that I ended up running it out. Pretty exciting! But I came up just slightly left of the anchors, which may not have been the best way....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Politically Incorrect (5.10c)
By: BrendanP When: Nov 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: At the top crux, the decent holds are obscured by a manic spatter of shitty semi-pockets, which for me turned the last two bolts into a miserable grovel. Not really hard for the grade, just hard to read. The guidebook doesn't lie when it says the moves are intensely varied, and for this I do give it some credit.

My partner loved it, guess I'm the oddball here.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : New Ethics (5.12a)
By: BrendanP When: Nov 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Don't let the shitty bushwhacking through the first bolt turn you off of this route. The mantle right at the start is really cool and the upper section, while hard to read, makes for some great movement.

P.S. During the mantle, it kinda seems like you could deck on the big ledge below if you blow itů but rest assured that we blew this move several times and all was well.

P.P.S. Pretty sure FA: Bob D'Antonio.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Man Hands (5.10d)
By: BrendanP When: Aug 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The seam is okay (kind of weird), but the crack above is pure joy. If that crack were longer, it would be 4 stars.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Wipeyur Buttress : Snapping Station (5.12a)
By: BrendanP When: Aug 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Don't be discouraged by the first fifteen feet or so of loose stuff, the moves above will give you the best kind of amnesia. Some thoughtful bolt-skipping will help through the first crux as well as help to reduce rope drag above - be safe!


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Hunky Monkey (5.11b/c)
By: BrendanP When: Aug 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: As of Aug. 2, it is pretty easy to keep your shoes and rope dry through p1 with a wee bit of traversing in the beginning, but any pulling of your rope if you choose to rap down will certainly get it soaked. Have fun!


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Variation to Hunky Monkey (5.11d)
By: BrendanP When: Aug 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for posting, we climbed this route betaless and so we weren't sure exactly which variation we'd done.

Last two pitches brought out some technical, smeary stems that felt insecure but are very well-protected and fun. The trick to the fourth pitch crux is to be tall, but my partner (shorty) somehow pulled through it with some invisi-crimp micro-pinch bullshit. Whatever works, I guess.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : The Scoop Area : Master of Disaster (V5)
By: BrendanP When: Mar 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: May have been on the wrong problem, but the underclings seem pretty distinct.... This problem was reachy for sure, but no way was it a V5 unless we were doing something totally wrong.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : The Scoop Area : The Scoop (V5)
By: BrendanP When: Mar 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Firing straight up the roof is a little reachy and a bit scary but fully worth it. End this excellent problem with a bang!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : The Hurricane (5.12a/b)
By: BrendanP When: Mar 27, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Super clean, thin, sustained, and so so good. After a dozen trips to Shelf, this may still be my favorite route.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Legend on the Fall (5.12a/b)
By: BrendanP When: Mar 27, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: "Just believe" is so appropriate for the lower crux - even after finally figuring it out, it still felt like I had missed a crucial hold. Unbelievably thin and pretty frustrating. The upper section drops back down into hard 5.11 territory with great moves the whole way, so don't be discouraged if you're stuck at the crux!


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Bubble Boyz (5.12a)
By: BrendanP When: Jan 18, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: From the ground seems like a squeeze job but actually very fun and thoughtfully bolted. Climbing is VERY similar to Stone Groovin, the 11d just to the right (which is every bit as hard)


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Monet (5.11d)
By: BrendanP When: Oct 30, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Try going left after the bush instead of right.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : Southeast Face : Greatest Route (5.8)
By: BrendanP When: Sep 16, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Well-protected, but the cracks are mostly flared which can make placements slightly tricky.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : ... : Photo
By: BrendanP When: Sep 9, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Cool picture, but pretty sure this is Karma Mechanic. Castrator is much farther north along the wall.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Phase Dance (5.12-)
By: BrendanP When: Sep 9, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Hitting the crux in sequence is very difficult, a take/fall at bolt eight lets you cheat the beta pretty hard.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Leviathan (5.11d)
By: BrendanP When: Sep 1, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Neat route. The crux is very thin and discouraging (where are the holds?), but visibility is good and the sequence isn't hard to derive - perhaps being taller helps through the (nearly) no-hands high-steps.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Divination Direct (5.12a)
By: BrendanP When: Aug 28, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Did this route by accident, was a little baffled at first that everybody thought the roof sections were cruxy given the much pumpier and more sustained climbing down low - now I know the full story. Thanks for the direct start, it adds quality to an already excellent route.


Page 1 of 8.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>