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Member Since: Oct 26, 2006
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Brendan N. (grayhghost)


Point Rank: # 1,534
Total Points: 388
Last Year: 102
Last 30 Days: 1
39 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brendan N. (grayhghost) been climbing?










Brendan N. (grayhghost)

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 442 | Routes 4 | Areas | Photos 64 | Page Improvments | Comments 28 | Posts 305 | Stars 33 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Pine Canyon : Rabid Muslim (5.11)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Mar 23, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: way better than the incredible handcrack.

One trick to prevent the rope from pushing your gear into the crack below the roof is to jam a tight #4 Gray Camalot right at the lip. There is a notch that keeps the #4 from being pushed backwards.

use a 70meter rope

amazing climb.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Pine Canyon : Old Bushmills (5.10)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Mar 23, 2011

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Comments: a great climb. tricky thin feet at the beginning lead to steep thin hands at the top.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Pine Canyon : Anchors From Hell (5.10c)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Mar 23, 2011

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Comments: great, varied climbing.

bolt is not a problem in my eyes


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall : All Along the Watchtower (5.10+)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Mar 23, 2011

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Comments: hard transitions from big hands, to fists, to stacks, to knees.

This is a full workout


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall : Idiot Wind (5.11c)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Mar 23, 2011

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Comments: tricky, balancy cruxes with good gear.

a quiver of small cams with extra gray and purple camalots


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall : Blowin' in the Wind (5.10b)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Mar 23, 2011

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Comments: hero hand jams to a blue-collar offwidth pod crux.

be careful with some of the flakes on the left.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Site 18
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Oct 19, 2009

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Comments: the approach trail is now VERY well marked


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Building Blocks - East : Technicolor Arete (5.12b)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Oct 19, 2009

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Comments: two small finger pieces protect the seams (green, red or yellow C3)

great boulder problem


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Building Blocks - West : Vise Grips (5.11+)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Oct 19, 2009

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Comments: WOW! This thing is HARD

Great locker fingers and hands on a super-physical roof

An amazing achievement for Greg Lowe


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Oct 7, 2009

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Comments: Will,
Keep an open mind and a sense of adventure and millcreek will deliver some of the best climbing experiences of your life.
-brendan


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Horse Creek : Reckon So (5.12d)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Oct 7, 2009

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Comments: a fantastic test of slab skill that starts out mellow and climaxes with thin crimps on a nearly vertical face

a classic of the style


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Lower Mill Creek : The Paper Crane (5.13a)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Sep 24, 2009

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Comments: great movement, but a bit sandy in spots


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Building Blocks - East : The Mechanic (5.12a)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Sep 9, 2009

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Comments: poorly bolted


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Great Wall : Three Star Corner (5.10a)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Sep 9, 2009

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Comments: A fantastic line, one of the best in the City

we used nothing bigger than a #1 (red) Camalot
small cams are needed to protect the lower and upper third
double .5 and .75 camalots are nice

a bit easy for the grade

The trick to getting to the chains is to look for the foot edges that will take you out there and not to focus on handholds. This is the mental crux of the route, but well worth doing.

continue hiking up and do "Beef Jello" while you are in the area


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Beef Jello : Beef Jello (5.10d)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Sep 9, 2009

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Comments: a fantastic climb well worth the hike
I sneaked around the direct start by climbing patina to the right
this is the "Crack of Doom" for 5.10 climbers, a true classic


make a day of exploring circle creek and its seclusion


Location: UT : Moab Area : Sand Flats : Elvis's Hammer : Hormones in Waiting (5.10)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Jan 28, 2009

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Comments: Does anyone know the exact height of the Hammer on its tallest side, straight to the ground?


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork : 1/2 Route, AKA Unknown (5.10+)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Dec 10, 2008

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Comments: please bring two quicklinks and two rap rings to fix on these anchors, it sounds like people have stolen the carabiners off the Metolius Rap Hangers.

This route is so steep it would be nasty to try to clean it on rappel

thanks!

Great route!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork : Huecos Rancheros (5.12c)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Dec 8, 2008

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Comments: There is now a bolted route 5 feet to the right of Huecos Rancheros.

Anyone have any beta?


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Carbuncle Buttress : Made to be Broken (5.10+ PG13)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Dec 8, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: PleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePlease

Bring 10 steel rap-rings and a wrench for the belays. As of 12/05/08 the belays were bolts with single quicklinks, causing serious rope twisting when pulling the ropes on the rappels. This could be bad if your only rope gets stuck simply because it spun around itself a million times.

You could use 4 slings to cut down on rope drag.

This route is pretty spooky, I would recommend being a solid 5.11 sport leader befor... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Shune's Buttress (5.11+)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Nov 24, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Great route!

A few notes:

Bring small nuts for the first pitch.

Bring medium nuts for the second pitch (5.10 fingers variation)

Climb the OW as a 210 foot super-pitch if you want comfy belays. Bring a new #5 Camalot. A 70m rope is nice.

Bring slings for the last pitch, it wanders.

Double rope rappel the first rap, then single rope rappel to the top of the chimney,
then single again, then double, double, double.


Wow, this route is awesome!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Nov 14, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: One full set of Black Diamond C3s protect the crux dihedral very well. You can even whip onto them. I did.

Our rack: C3s: Purple, Green, Red, Yellow
C4s: (1) Blue .3 + (2) Gray .4 + (2) Purple .5 + (2) Green .75 + (3) Red 1 + (3) Yellow 2 + (3) Blue 3 + (1) Gray 4 + (1) Purple 5
No nuts required.

The Extension: The crux 5.12+ pitch is horribly rotten and not worth free climbing. Aid at C1.
The next pitch, which should not be combined with the previous pitch, involves moderately ... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: BCC/ LCC Top Roping for teachingNorthern Utah & IdahoBrendan N. (grayhghost)Jul 21, 2014
re: Home bouldering cave vs TreadWall...Training ForumBrendan N. (grayhghost)Jul 10, 2014
re: training without going Full Rockprodigy?Training ForumBrendan N. (grayhghost)Jul 8, 2014
re: Recommendation on Getting into PhotographyClimbing Photos & VideosBrendan N. (grayhghost)Jun 28, 2014
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