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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Buiding Blocks - West : Vise Grips (5.11+)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: WOW! This thing is HARD
Great locker fingers and hands on a super-physical roof
An amazing achievement for Greg Lowe
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Will,
Keep an open mind and a sense of adventure and millcreek will deliver some of the best climbing experiences of your life.
-brendan
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Horse Creek : Reckon So (5.12d)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: a fantastic test of slab skill that starts out mellow and climaxes with thin crimps on a nearly vertical face
a classic of the style
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Other Mill Creek Areas : The Paper Crane (5.13a)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Sep 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: great movement, but a bit sandy in spots
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Buiding Blocks - East : The Mechanic (5.12a)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Sep 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: poorly bolted
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Great Wall : Three Star Corner (5.10a)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Sep 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fantastic line, one of the best in the City
we used nothing bigger than a #1 (red) Camalot
small cams are needed to protect the lower and upper third
double .5 and .75 camalots are nice
a bit easy for the grade
The trick to getting to the chains is to look for the foot edges that will take you out there and not to focus on handholds. This is the mental crux of the route, but well worth doing.
continue hiking up and do "Beef Jello" while you are in the area
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Beef Jello : Beef Jello (5.10d)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Sep 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: a fantastic climb well worth the hike
I sneaked around the direct start by climbing patina to the right
this is the "Crack of Doom" for 5.10 climbers, a true classic
make a day of exploring circle creek and its seclusion
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Sand Flats : Elvis's Hammer : Hormones in Waiting (5.10)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Jan 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know the exact height of the Hammer on its tallest side, straight to the ground?
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork : 1/2 Route, AKA Unknown (5.10+)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Dec 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: please bring two quicklinks and two rap rings to fix on these anchors, it sounds like people have stolen the carabiners off the Metolius Rap Hangers.
This route is so steep it would be nasty to try to clean it on rappel
thanks!
Great route!
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork : Huecos Rancheros (5.12c)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Dec 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is now a bolted route 5 feet to the right of Huecos Rancheros.
Anyone have any beta?
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Carbuncle Buttress : Made to be Broken (5.10+ PG13)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Dec 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: PleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePlease
Bring 10 steel rap-rings and a wrench for the belays. As of 12/05/08 the belays were bolts with single quicklinks, causing serious rope twisting when pulling the ropes on the rappels. This could be bad if your only rope gets stuck simply because it spun around itself a million times.
You could use 4 slings to cut down on rope drag.
This route is pretty spooky, I would recommend being a solid 5.11 sport leader befor... more >>
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Shune's Buttress (5.11+)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Nov 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route!
A few notes:
Bring small nuts for the first pitch.
Bring medium nuts for the second pitch (5.10 fingers variation)
Climb the OW as a 210 foot super-pitch if you want comfy belays. Bring a new #5 Camalot. A 70m rope is nice.
Bring slings for the last pitch, it wanders.
Double rope rappel the first rap, then single rope rappel to the top of the chimney,
then single again, then double, double, double.
Wow, this route is awesome!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: Brendan N. (grayhghost) When: Nov 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: One full set of Black Diamond C3s protect the crux dihedral very well. You can even whip onto them. I did.
Our rack: C3s: Purple, Green, Red, Yellow
C4s: (1) Blue .3 + (2) Gray .4 + (2) Purple .5 + (2) Green .75 + (3) Red 1 + (3) Yellow 2 + (3) Blue 3 + (1) Gray 4 + (1) Purple 5
No nuts required.
The Extension: The crux 5.12+ pitch is horribly rotten and not worth free climbing. Aid at C1.
The next pitch, which should not be combined with the previous pitch, involves moderately ... more >>
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