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Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH


Member Since: Oct 18, 2010
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Brendan Blanchard

Brendan Blanchard
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Point Rank: # 2,048
Total Points: 310
Last Year: 8
Last 30 Days: 1
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brendan Blanchard been climbing?










Brendan Blanchard

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 1174 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos 39 | Page Improvements | Comments 65 | Posts 596 | Stars 326 | Ratings 143
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Stonehouse Pond : The Nose (5.8)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 9, 2013

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Comments: My first 5.8 trad lead, without me even knowing it! I always knew it was stiff, but didn't give it much thought.

Fun route, the bottom can be semi-protected by a red tri-cam in the flaring flake. After a few moves you can lean left and place a small C4 or TCU in a good flake. Maybe not R, but also not your standard protected route.


Location: NH : Stonehouse Pond : Desperation (5.10c)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 9, 2013

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Comments: Does this start directly under the first bolt, or slightly to the right?


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs : Rock Lobster (5.9)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 8, 2013

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Comments: Landonf, any word on what the lead is like? What kind of gear, and falls?


Location: MA : Redrock and vicinity : Swayback (5.9+ R)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: Very fun, worth every delicate move. Extremely fun and rewarding to stick the top, not to mention relieving. The less daring could pre-place a cam at the top flake easily enough, but I think it would be much better without. Three stars if it weren't so damn short.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thin Air (5.6) : Photo
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: Mark, I wouldn't say I was outraged, more disappointed. My partner and I had just finished Sliding Board, and headed to Cathedral to round out our day. I wanted to take him up Thin Air or Rapid Transit, but instead we did the Saigons.

The group was there when we got there, and packed up and left about an hour later, so they may have been there for 2 or more hours, someone else could tell you better than I could.

I posted the picture mostly for opinions, and overall it's about what I expected.... more >>


Location: MA : Redrock and vicinity : Rip Van Winkle (5.10a)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: Jim, I think I've avoided going out right because there is glue/chopped bolt garbage on that face. If I remember, I place my gear carefully, then make a high smear/slanted toe jam with a foot (R/L?), then move my other foot up and then finish up.

+1 for no bolt. This was my first outdoor 5.10, trad OR sport. For Red Rocks 5.10 slab, it's only beaten by Morning Glory. Yeah I call 5.10 on Morning Glory, sorry....


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : Sliding Board (5.7 R)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Apr 28, 2013

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Comments: Did for the first time today. We should have linked pitched 2&3, instead we linked 4&5** and 6&7**, both are obviously run out to start, so it doesn't change that much.

The bolt on the last 2 pitches/simul finish was missing it's hangar. I failed to spot it on the way up, but another party told me it had no hangar. Unfortunately, a 70m will not link those two final easy pitches.

  • *We used a 70m, and had >15 feet left at the end of both links.



Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Illmob Boulder : Hitman (V4)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Did a hold break on the arete? I didn't climb it today, but I've looked at it before, and there was a big scar on the arete and it looked like it was missing something?


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Method Area : No Need to Be Gripped (V3)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: I'd have to disagree, I found this to be 3ish, possibly a little soft. I found Imperial Action or No Sweat now(?) to be harder for me than this. Different styles maybe?


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : X.L. (V2) : Photo
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Apr 12, 2013

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Comments: Ha. The height looks trivial in this picture. Not so much in person....


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Devil's Den Bouldering : Throng (V5)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Apr 6, 2013

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Comments: Really fun! Probably a V3(?) if you start with your right hand on the upper arete hold, that first move is rough.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Fire Road Boulders : Bugland : Bugland Direct (V3)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: This could probably clean up better than Bugland Arete because it can be started without the flexy flake. It will only get better with a little traffic.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Rainforest Boulder (Valley ... : All Purpose (V4)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Nov 10, 2012

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Comments: A really great problem, it should see more action.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Buttermilk Boulder : Bolt On Top (V1)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Oct 28, 2012

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Comments: Someone heavily chalked and X'd the top-most big hold. It' flexes ever so slightly when pulled on hard, I wouldn't worry, but people should know.

It goes alright without that hold, just a little more techy at the top.


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : The Maltese Falcon (5.8)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jul 17, 2012

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Comments: Really fun slab, would be better than Green Mile if it had cooler features/aesthetics. Great movement through the upper wall though. Traffic is what it needs most!


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : The Anchovy Caper (5.8)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jul 17, 2012

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Comments: Fun route, glad I decided to get on it. I found the smoothest way to do that last mantle is to get the best left hand on the sloping rail, then palm on the flat edge with your right, then mantle it through. Felt not-awkward, which is impressive for me and mantling.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Espresso (5.10d)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jul 9, 2012

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Comments: The start also feels stout for me, I climb the ramp, clip the first bolt, then move down/left and start the real climbing. I use one of the pockets as a flat edged sidepull, throw into the crack, then pop to a jug up and right, clip the second bolt, then finish straight up the line. If I skipped that section or found an easier way, the route would not feel 10d to me.

Quick clips are getting pretty worn as of 7/8/12.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Holderness Corner : Holderness Arete (5.10b)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jun 12, 2012

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Comments: Haven't climbed this yet, but the guide book recommends a cam to cover the start of the route.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Down Under : Cloak and Dagger (V2)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 12, 2012

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Comments: If you know a previous ascent or the FA, let me know and I can change details as needed.


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Tropicana (5.11a)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Apr 16, 2012

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Comments: I found the lower crux to be pumpy getting to that the jugs/big undercling rest, clip the fourth bolt then move up to the real rest ledge. The upper crux is a harder move or two, but not pumpy due to the rest right before. Love the route, and I've only done the first pitch!


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Rhino Bucket (5.10a)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Apr 7, 2012

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Comments: Not my favorite of the Meadows climbs, but I'm sure with a lot of work it could be made less awkward. As an onsight, it was terrible and pumpy to work through and into the groove. I did enjoy several of the moves in the middle to end of the groove. Any fun I had was over-shadowed by the ledge fall potential from the anchor, the wet start and awkward moves into the groove.

As for clipping the anchors, I have never said the words "clipping, take, and ready to lower" in such quick succession. It w... more >>


Location: MA : Redrock and vicinity : Morning Glory (5.8+)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Mar 24, 2012

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Comments: I would say that if you move left after the second mantle it is probably a solid 5.10. Harder if you go right from the mantle on the extremely slopey rumps.

Leading it makes for a huge fall potential when you do the third(?) mantle and clip the third bolt, per say, if you were shaking like a leaf and blew the third clip...you'd probably land no more than 15 feet off the ground.

BETA ALERT:
My sequence was this for anyone wondering what I'm grading...after the dike, move right through a sloper... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : No Money Down (Left) : No Money Down (5.10c)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Mar 18, 2012

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Comments: Is this route supposed to have quick-clips to lower from? Currently the anchor is eyebolt-rapide-rap ring for both bolts.


Location: MA : Redrock and vicinity : Roll the Bones (5.7+)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Mar 7, 2012

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Comments: I'd say it's still in the 7-7+ rating, maybe 5.6/-7 if you hug the right side of the route. Out left I found some moves to be interesting/harder than I would have thought.

Not a bad route, nice to have something bolted at RR that isn't 10-15' apart and sketchy.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : Brain Supreme (V1)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jan 8, 2012

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Comments: Felt maybe easier than V1, but the landing and height make up for that. I found that technique was all that was needed to glide up the arete. Decent hands, but feet abound, you just have to figure out the sequence and keep it cool.


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