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Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH


Member Since: Oct 18, 2010
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
Contact Brendan Blanchard


Point Rank: # 1,893
Total Points: 302
Last Year: 50
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brendan Blanchard been climbing?










Brendan Blanchard

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 1063 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos 38 | Page Improvments | Comments 62 | Posts 564 | Stars 254 | Ratings 140
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : The Crimp Problem SDS (V5-)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: I think the starting move of the sit is around V5, but it's much MUCH more repeatable than the dyno. It's a hard pull off the ground, but it feels a lot more like a sure-thing than the dyno/stab to the gaston or lip.

When I could finally do V5's with some consistency all I had to do was play with the feet and the start came easily. Then it was just a matter of sticking the dyno after the sit. All in all, I can probably do the sit moves 4 out of 5 times, and the dyno/gaston about 1 in 10...


Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Crystal Lizard (5.8+ R)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jan 18, 2014

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Comments: I started roughly 15' to the right of the bolt, thinking it was the line. Really good climbing, but probably 9+ unprotected up to the bolt. I don't know my slab grades well, but it fell much harder than anything else on the route. Hair-raising, but very good friction climbing on small smeary dishes and the likes. Sustained unsure moves, but definitely worthwhile if that's your thing...


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Buttermilk Boulder : Runaway (V4-5)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Dec 10, 2013

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Comments: I agree with Eric, it's a fun problem. I differ from the description in that I used a decent right hand sloper on the lip rather than matching the crimp before moving left.

Footage at 3:33.




Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : Sauce (V3+)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Dec 10, 2013

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Comments: Footage starts at 2:00.
This problem deserves some more love. That crimp is sharp, but it's fun movement.




Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : Cause for Commotion (V3)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Dec 10, 2013

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Comments: Footage starts at 0:28.





Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : The Crimp Problem SDS (V5-)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Dec 10, 2013

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Comments: Footage starts at 1:12.




Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Method Area : Rio's Crack (V5)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Dec 5, 2013

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Comments: I agree, short but sweet. Very fun and will only get better when more people kick off the crumbly feet.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Swamp Boulders : Slow Vibration (V4)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Nov 23, 2013

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Comments: Not knowing how this problem was supposed to start, I got on it today and started on the right hand crimp/sidepull and the little nothing for the left hand. Shot left to the triangle, then fired for the edge and bumped to the lip after sticking it and putting my right foot back on. Felt pretty natural and V4/5, worth trying out for sure. I can upload a clip of it if anyone is interested.


Location: NH : Rumney : Upper Darth Vadar : Three Easy Pieces (5.11a)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Really fun, kinda like a shorter Social Outcast, and about equally annoying, but not terribly hard to clean.

IMO, the best way to clean it is to tram in (belay loop/rope), then clean the 4th, and 3rd draw, then clip the tram draw to the second bolt draw, lean over, clean the first, then pull on a bit and pop the second draw out. The cleaner will take a 4-5ft swing, and the belayer just needs a solid stance. It's nothing bad, and does no harm to the rope. And unlike it's bigger brother Social, ... more >>


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Devil's Den Bouldering : Feeling For The Heavens (ak... (V4-)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Oct 25, 2013

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Comments: I haven't sent from the stand or sit, but I've always started from a sit? Kinda awkward, but offers more climbing on flat edges, probably doesn't change the grade.


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Man Overboard (5.12d)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: Thanks guys, I found the tree you mentioned, and phoo does it look bad. Nice fat tree, but the slings and cord have moss growing out of them :) Didn't get a chance to rap in, but when I do I'll definitely be replacing that anchor if it's the one I need.


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Man Overboard (5.12d)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: For those who are not fully oriented at Rumney, how does the topout of Man Overboard line up with the top of Waimea, and where would you rap in to check out the topout? Is it near the lookout below Jimmy Cliff that's pretty much behind the alcove area and Things As They Are Now etc?

I have the bottom of Whip Tide pretty wired and wanted to start working on this, and could use any help I can get ;)


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : Labrador Dreams (aka Tin Ar... (V5)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: Gave this a good chalking and almost sent today. Tis the season for slopers!


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Yosemite Boulder Area : Still Remains (V1-2)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: I did it the other day. It can't be more than V2. Once you encounter the crack you do a strange move to arrange yourself for the top lieback. It's a strange move for sure, but not terribly hard. It certainly makes you wonder what's going to happen if you fall with your leg stuffed in the hole. I'd say there's a reason nobody really does it.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : Sea of Holes (5.7)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Aug 25, 2013

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Comments: From the tree anchor at the top, my partner and I were able to make it to the ground in three, two rope (60m) raps. We went from the tree to the bolted belay directly below, probably about 120', then down and climber's left to the tree belay, a full 60m rap, then one more to the ground with a little rope to spare at the bottom. As always, knot the rope!

The middle tree belay is part the Stadtmuller Griffin Route, and could probably use a new sling/cord, but was still safe to rap on.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Down Under : Left Arete Project (5.11 V3)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: I cleaned some of this off on rappel last spring and tried the start a bit. It certainly felt like hard-ish technical moves right off the ground, but holds await on the second half.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Storm Boulders : Warrior (V3) : Photo
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Aug 2, 2013

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Comments: Where does the V4 on the right start?


Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Rubicon (5.10b)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: Finally got around to finishing this one. I went up and left to clip the crux bolt, then came down and kept more right to pull the moves. Definitely felt a little more than 10b, and kinda similar in nature to the low crimpy crux of Millennium Falcon.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Little Big Man (5.11b)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: A fun short bouldery route. That drop-knee is deeeeep, it feels like spring-loading your leg.


Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : The Nuthatch (5.7)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: A corkscrew, or turning around several times can help ease the groveling feeling.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : The Golden Wall : Slot Machine (5.6)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: I didn't find the gear to be awful or terribly sparse. I placed 5 or 6 pieces, and the only real run-out was the first bulge. I think PG/13 is a fair warning. Not perfect, but also not a death defying lack of gear.

After the runout, a #2BD fits very well, tucked back underneath an outcrop in the crack. You could haul wide gear up, but it would seem a little silly. It's also a lieback, rather than OW, unless you like making things harder than they should be.


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Rainbow (5.6)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: Sufficiently fun at the grade. Ideally, it should be led, cleaned on TR, then the TR-er should rap.

Cleaning on rappel is not terribly fun, efficient, or otherwise pleasant for your rope. I would suggest a prussik/autoblock to allow some traversing and moving to get to the middle bolts because of the roof.


Location: NH : Stonehouse Pond : The Nose (5.8)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 9, 2013

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Comments: My first 5.8 trad lead, without me even knowing it! I always knew it was stiff, but didn't give it much thought.

Fun route, the bottom can be semi-protected by a red tri-cam in the flaring flake. After a few moves you can lean left and place a small C4 or TCU in a good flake. Maybe not R, but also not your standard protected route.


Location: NH : Stonehouse Pond : Desperation (5.10c)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 9, 2013

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Comments: Does this start directly under the first bolt, or slightly to the right?


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs : Rock Lobster (5.9)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 8, 2013

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Comments: Landonf, any word on what the lead is like? What kind of gear, and falls?


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