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Member Since: Mar 27, 2004
Last Visit: Apr 5, 2004
Contact Brejcha, Matthew


Point Rank: # 14,954
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brejcha, Matthew been climbing?










Contributions


All 14 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 6 | Posts | Stars 5 | Ratings 3

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a)
By: Brejcha, Matthew When: Nov 8, 2005

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Comments: Fantastic climb!
p1- offwidthing for a while. Once you can get all the way into the chimney it mellows out but I kept getting stuck. I didn't lead this pitch (thank god) but I cleaned two draws from bolts, a HUGE gold Big Bro and some biners from webbing around chockstones.

p2- This is a really cool pitch. I'd say it's about 5.7. Back against one wall, feet on the other and up you go. I clipped an old pin about 20 feet in, stuffed in a yellow Alien maybe 20 feet above that, and clipped an old s... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8)
By: Brejcha, Matthew When: Nov 8, 2005

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Comments: P2 and 3 link with a 60m. I've done the route twice and that's how we did it both times.

Bring a jacket, the route is always in the shade and it's like a freezer in there.

Pith one is my favorite 5.8 pitch in the desert, it is long, sustained but with great gear and rests and a cool little crux protecting the first anchor. I still can't decide where the crux is, it is either the lieback move 130 feet up pitch one or the OW 15 feet up pitch 2.They are both short cruxes.

My favorite part about... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Brejcha, Matthew When: Apr 5, 2004

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Comments: Wicked crazy. Summit pitch looks supreme, although it is wiggy in the rain. We were being threatened by storm clouds all day, I thought I was home free when I started the last pitch, but NO, halfway across the walkway --RAIN--it sucked real bad. Take a REAL light rack on this climb, you only need to protect one pitch (100ft.), I used all active pro----don't even take stoppers, you won't need them. Also the end of the chimney pitch is so skinny you'll most likely get stuck if you fall, so you r... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Finger of Fate (5.8 A2)
By: Brejcha, Matthew When: Apr 5, 2004

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Comments: Word on the street is this puppy JUST got rebolted (late Mar. early Apr. 2004)A rumor or a fact?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : 30 Seconds Over Potash (5.8)
By: Brejcha, Matthew When: Mar 27, 2004

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Comments: Sucks there isn't more than one pitch. I felt the curx was the first few moves and it got easier the higher I got. TAKE A #3 Camalot, you can keep moving it up with you from about halfway until you need a number 2 (I think about 20 feet). There were other, more difficult placements, but why? My rack(from what I remember): a big stopper for the beginning, a yellow Alien for the next move group, a #3 Camalot, a #2 Camalot, 2 #1 Camalots and another yellow Alien. I think I ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Lucy in the Sky with Potash (5.10a)
By: Brejcha, Matthew When: Mar 27, 2004

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Comments: This is a great route with a "sporty" crux. I greased 2 or 3 times trying to pull that move. The thin section just below the crux gobbles up a purple splitter cam. After that move the route is a cruiser, but watch the flake at the top.Also,you may want to take some home depot biners or some rap rings for the anchor, the route sees a crap-ton of traffic and the current rings are getting to show it.


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Stolen Chimney 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

UT : Moab Area : ... : Ancient Art

Honeymoon Chimney 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

UT : Moab Area : ... : The Priest

Lucy in the Sky with Potash 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

UT : Moab Area : ... : Wall Street

30 Seconds Over Potash 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

UT : Moab Area : ... : Wall Street

North Chimney 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

UT : Moab Area : ... : Castleton Tower

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Lucy in the Sky with Potash

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

UT : Moab Area : ... : Wall Street

North Chimney

5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

UT : Moab Area : ... : Castleton Tower

30 Seconds Over Potash

5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

UT : Moab Area : ... : Wall Street