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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Summersville Lake : Orange Oswald Wall : Moon Pie Deluxe (5.10d)
By: Brandy Walters When: Jun 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't consider myself particularly short - I'm 5'8", and I could not reach the second (or was it third?) clip. Stick clipping that bolt was an adventure. I thought the roof would be worth the clipping shenanigans below but it was just OK. After the roof was sloper hell. I have never had an Elvis leg like I did on Moon Pie. I wish I had tried Barfing Butterflies instead.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Summersville Lake : Orange Oswald Wall : Orange Oswald (5.10a)
By: Brandy Walters When: Jun 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I almost skipped this one based on the comments here, but a fellow climber recommended it. I enjoyed route - the crux and the jug haul at the top. The slightly runout section near the top is easy climbing.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : South Side : Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress : Rico Sauve (5.10a)
By: Brandy Walters When: Jun 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I lead Rico Suave in the pouring rain which was a first and may have added to the experience. The route was varied and featured and the movements were thought provoking. It had a couple of nice rests to help secure the onsight. Highly recommend.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : South Side : Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch : Springer (5.10b)
By: Brandy Walters When: Jun 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route was fine until the just above the last bolt. I'd studied the last few holds, worked out the sequence, only to discover that the last 3 holds were wet, muddy, and very slick. It had rained heavily the day before and I didn't realize how shaded and wet the top would be. I matched on the first crimp which was muddy but slightly dry on the very edge, but when I moved my right to the next hold, it was a puddle at which point both hands slipped right off. Major bummer! I slipped off abou... more >>
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : South Side : Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch : The Green Piece (5.10b)
By: Brandy Walters When: Jun 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I checked MP before deciding between this and Low Voltage, and I chose Green Piece based on the comments. Our whole group loved this route. The climbing was featured, varied, and pumpy at times. Agree completely with just powering on to the anchors. The top holds were slightly slick (it rained the day before) but still very doable. Highly recommend!
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : South Side : Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch : Flight of the Gumbie (5.9+)
By: Brandy Walters When: Jun 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wasn't as impressed with this route as I thought I'd be based on all the rave reviews and guidebook stars. There was a lot of clipping/downclimbing/unclipping shenanigans at the bottom because of the rope drag issue. Next time I think I'd just clip in normally and find out if rope drag really is an issue. I also toproped it again to see if I liked it any better on TR. It was definitely good, the arete is beautiful, but the climbing was just not particularly memorable to me. Enjoyed the jok... more >>
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fern Buttress Area
By: Brandy Walters When: Jun 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with the sub area comment. It wouldn't be as bad if they were in sequence instead of alphabetic order. I don't have my guidebook with me at the moment so I'm trying to figure out which routes are in my range and near each other.
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