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Member Since: Oct 18, 2010
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Point Rank: # 2,116
Total Points: 271
Last Year: 86
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 560 | Routes 14 | Areas 1 | Photos 9 | Page Improvements | Comments 71 | Posts 45 | Stars 316 | Ratings 104
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Mountain Project App: Take ...
By: BJB When: Aug 25, 2013

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Comments: I would do only a paid one, but make it cheap (<$5). It's such a great resource that I can't imagine people wouldn't be willing to pay, especially when we're shelling out so much for guidebooks anyway. I use the free one now, but I would have paid for it if there had been no other way.

Also, kind of an unrelated note, but you should really make it possible to download individual canyons in the Wasatch Range. Having to download the ENTIRE Wasatch Range eats up a ton of phone memory... more >>


Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : Slimy Crack aka Icecubes, P... (5.10-)
By: BJB When: Aug 23, 2013

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Comments: Personally, I didn't think this route was much slimier than all the other humid rock I was climbing on today.


Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : Butt Scratch (5.8)
By: BJB When: Aug 23, 2013

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Comments: Still polished, still just ok.


Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : Over Easy (5.9)
By: BJB When: Aug 23, 2013

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Comments: I rated this route three stars earlier, until I climbed it today and realized that there are good holds at the end of the roof that let you cut your feet and just hang. Four stars.


Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : It's A Wiggle Butt (5.8+)
By: BJB When: Aug 23, 2013

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Comments: The polished, slippery character of the rock makes this route feel harder than it is. Especially at the start and at the finish.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers : Uncensored Society (5.10b)
By: BJB When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: Loved this route. You can get some big dynamic moves from great holds to great holds.
I pretty much bounded my way up it until the very end. There's a spot at the finish that's a little harder than you expect, but then you reach up to another great, big hold and you're done. Really recommend it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Main : Inner Light (5.7)
By: BJB When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: I really enjoyed this. The angle of the first 15-20 is just less than vertical, so you can use really small holds that would normally make a climb pretty hard. The route demands a lot of balance and some good foot work.
Probably the most technical easy climb I've done.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Little Mill Area
By: BJB When: Jul 10, 2013

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Comments: I've had a hard time finding this area. I think the directions are based off of a campsite layout that no longer exists.
How do we find this area now?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Butterfingers (5.9+)
By: BJB When: Jul 6, 2013

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Comments: This route is really quite fun. The slaby moves in the beginning are kind of thrilling as you have to trust some less than ideal feet on smallish hands. The corner is also a cool feature with great holds. This one is worth doing.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : 26 (5.12a)
By: BJB When: Jul 6, 2013

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Comments: The route does not have a lot to offer beyond the fact that it offers one move that feels impossible, but is actually doable once you find a way to hold onto those nasty little holds.

These are the smallest holds that I have ever used. It was a cool feeling to finally stick the crux, but that amounts to about 3 memorable moves in 30 ft.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Black Rose : Fat Hippos (5.12a)
By: BJB When: Jun 8, 2013

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Comments: This climb became more and more fun for me as I found the minuscule holds for the middle section (between bolt 2 and 3). Despite the fact that the route is short, it has three distinct, fun sections: moderate slab climbing, hard crux, difficult and distinct flake finger lock things with bad feet. I really enjoyed the route. It packs a lot into its 4 bolts.


Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Serpent Wall : Blank Page (5.11a)
By: BJB When: Feb 16, 2013

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Comments: I only found 2 bolts on this route. I think this is actually a great route becuase there is not a lot else like it. The bolts are pretty spaced, yet perfectly placed giving the route a bit of a heady feel but without any real danger. The climbing in the second half is slabbly in a trad kind of way that I haven't seen a lot of at Reimer's.


Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : Die Easy (5.6)
By: BJB When: Sep 18, 2012

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Comments: No longer the last route on the wall. There's now a route called black sabbath to the right of it.


Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : Just For The Fun of It (5.10a)
By: BJB When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: The finish to this was really quite cool. I don't know why more people don't do this route (no one at the wall had done it the day I was there). Getting to the roof is pretty lame climbing, but the roof is a really cool lime stone hand crack running through a roof. I've never seen anything else quite like it. Great jams and good feet make for a really cool finish.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Black Streak (5.10a/b PG13)
By: BJB When: Aug 16, 2012

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Comments: Near the start of Black Streak there is a mysterious looking rope dangling in a crack to the left. Wondering what it was for, I approached it and was scared away by a massive shower of fist sized rocks that fell without warning from the top of the mountain. Stay away from the dangling rope!

This climb reminded me a lot of Squawstruck in Rock Canyon: 5 great pitches, two lousy scramble pitches; lots of loose rock; massive exposure; long sport climb in a spect... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Jobsite : Air China Flight 924 (5.8 PG13)
By: BJB When: Aug 14, 2012

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Comments: the last pitch is where it's at. I thought it was some of the cooler trad climbing I've done in RC, but I wasn't crazy about pitches 1 and 3. Use really long runners on the first pitch and you'll probably have a better time with it, but it's still some of the bushy-est climbing I've ever done.
I personally felt like P3 was closer to a 5.9 than a 5.7, but that's just my opinon. I felt like it was the crux of the route in terms of climbing while p2 was the crux for gear placement. Too bad more peo... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Hidden Wall : Knightmare (5.11c)
By: BJB When: Aug 9, 2012

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Comments: tore off a giant hold on the orange portion of the climb. Be really careful because it feels like some of the bigger pieces are a little loose too.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Cool World Wall : Cool World (5.11a)
By: BJB When: Aug 9, 2012

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Comments: It looks like the route hasn't been done in sometime, so I figured I'd update the conditions a little bit.
The first pitch is still spectacular, fun and unique. The third pitch is also a lot of fun, but something must have broken off the 2nd pitch. I have done a lot of 11's on limestone and felt like the 2nd pitch crux was more like an 11+. It could be that holds have broken off, as there were really no feet up to the pocket, and even after snagging the pocket it was pretty hard to work up to t... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Arm and Hammer (5.11c)
By: BJB When: Aug 7, 2012

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Comments: Great route. Really glad we went out to do it before leaving Utah.

Most things have already been said, I'll just add a few things I wish I had known before hand:

Approach: Once you get into the part of Bell's canyon that has the tall granit(esque) towers, they get a littl bit hard to see, and it's not the easiest thing to figure out which granite tower is the middle one. Arm and hammer is found on the thrid granite tower. don't count the tower of quartzite (looks like Rock Canyon's Bad Bannan... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Dorsal Fin (5.10d)
By: BJB When: Jul 31, 2012

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Comments: We did this today and had a really hard time finding one place that told us how to approach, how to identify the pitches, and how to descend, so I thought I would write it all in one place:

Approach: park .9 miles up the canyon near the gated area that houses the LDS church vault. Follow the marked cairn trail/bushwack for a long time. As you walk this trail you will pass three distinct gullies. Walk up the third one. The entrance to this gully is very close to the vault's parking lot. Follow ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Satan's Corner (5.8)
By: BJB When: Jul 24, 2012

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Comments: The Wastach range guide warns that this rout is really difficult to protect and that people have died on it, so we almost didn't do it which would have been a big mistake. I thought it was one of the most fun in the canyon. I thought the pro was all pretty straight forward. We did it in one pitch using a single set of stoppers and a set of cams up to a 3 Friend with no duplicates.
Its also a bit safer now thanks to whoever got their $80 tricam stuck.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Les is More (5.10a)
By: BJB When: Jul 17, 2012

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Comments: Really fun. Lots of diversity with uncommonly deep pockets, stemming, and some unique hand jamming at the top. I thought it was pretty hard to be a 10a, maybe we were doing it wrong.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Balcony : Learning to Fly (5.11d)
By: BJB When: Jul 8, 2012

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Comments: This was a heck of a route. I love this whole area. I haven't really found another spot in the canyon quite like it. The real business of the climb is pretty much bolts 7 and 8, and you get a great rest after that. I loved the finish off a really small, shallow two finger pocket. Probably a three star climb that gets a fourth star for its amazing location.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Black Hole (5.10a)
By: BJB When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: I'm not sure what all the hate is about. Sure some of the footholds were greasy, but I didn't feel like they were much worse than a lot of other AF routes. I thought the moves were really reachy and fun to great pockets. The foot work was trick as I tried to avoid the crappy, slick feet. For what its worth, I and everyone who did the route in our group had a really fun time with it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Treasure Island : Buried Treasure (5.10a)
By: BJB When: May 28, 2012

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Comments: Kind of a "you must be this tall to ride" start. I reached up high and snagged that first pocket no problem, but a couple of guys we were with really struggled with the start. I thought this way pretty fun, but there's still a bit of plant life.


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