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Member Since: Oct 18, 2010
Last Visit: Aug 4, 2015
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Point Rank: # 2,326
Total Points: 271
Last Year: 10
Last 30 Days: 3
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 599 | Routes 13 | Areas 1 | Photos 9 | Page Improvements | Comments 81 | Posts 54 | Stars 339 | Ratings 102
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Visionary Wall
By: BJB When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: APPROACH:

Maybe this description makes sense when the stream is running, but when it's dry, I looked for about 1 1/2 hours before I found this area. This is my description of the approach ASSUMING THE STREAM IS DRY:

Follow the stream until you reach a big cliff that reaches almost into the streambed. This wall has one bolted route on it. This is Bug Bananas from the miscellaneous routes.

(If you stay on the right side of the stream, you are going to walk past Two O'Clock Rock and the mis... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Old School Rock
By: BJB When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: APPROACH:

Maybe this description makes sense when the stream is running, but when it's dry, I looked for about 1 1/2 hours before I found this area. This is my description of the approach ASSUMING THE STREAM IS DRY:

Follow the stream until you reach a big cliff that reaches almost into the streambed. This wall has one bolted route on it. This is Bug Bannanas from the miscellaneous routes.

(If you stay on the right side of the stream, you are going to walk past Two O'Clock Rock and the mi... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Old School Rock : Old School (5.10b)
By: BJB When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: This is a little slice of adventure hidden away in the back of American Fork.

The first pitch is pretty neat with a few roofs, but the second pitch is thrilling. There is a long, hair raising traverse and a big roof that seems desperate until you find these hidden, deep holds.

For how little traffic this route sees, the holds and rock are bomber.

Loved the route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Unknown Pleasures : Leapin' Lizards (5.10b)
By: BJB When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: This is a great route. I don't know if I've done a climb with such diversity of climbing. The location's great too, and the finish is cool and airy.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Serenity : Eavesdown Docks : Shindig (5.8)
By: BJB When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: This has a cool, trad feel to it. Probably could be climbed on gear. A nice different experience from the standard AF climb.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Isolation Wall : Fern Gully (5.10a)
By: BJB When: Jul 15, 2015

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Comments: This looks like a real garbage route, but it's up there as one of my favorite 10's.

It is surprisingly technical and steep yet on good, big holds. The approach to this area is so easy, I can't believe more people haven't done it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Isolation Wall
By: BJB When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: What is the route to the right of Fern Gully?

It is kind of on its own piece of rock. It's about 5 bolts, most of them being easy slab until a thin section to the chains.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Right Fork : No Substance : Scuzlocks (V-easy)
By: BJB When: Jun 24, 2015

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Comments: This climb alone is worth the trip.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Red Rock : The Red Rock : Cavity Bones (5.10a)
By: BJB When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Finally got this one, probably becuase I have been bouldering more lately.

The bouldering section at the start is actually pretty fun. It requires a big move off of bad feet and small hands. Then I had to heel hook the arete to keep from barn dooring off while I got my left hand up to the ledge. It was exciting. Still feels hard.


Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Urban Assault Wall : Urban Assault (5.11a)
By: BJB When: Jan 24, 2015

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Comments: This really is an incredible route. Not sure I have climbed anything quite like p2 anywhere.

Beware that if you do the whole route when the water is running, you are probably going to be rapping into the river.

If it has rained in the last few days, the last pitch is going to be wet at the end.


Location: CO : Mountain Project App: Take ...
By: BJB When: Aug 25, 2013

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Comments: I would do only a paid one, but make it cheap (<$5). It's such a great resource that I can't imagine people wouldn't be willing to pay, especially when we're shelling out so much for guidebooks anyway. I use the free one now, but I would have paid for it if there had been no other way.

Also, kind of an unrelated note, but you should really make it possible to download individual canyons in the Wasatch Range. Having to download the ENTIRE Wasatch Range eats up a ton of phone memory... more >>


Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : Slimy Crack aka Icecubes, P... (5.10-)
By: BJB When: Aug 23, 2013

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Comments: Personally, I didn't think this route was much slimier than all the other humid rock I was climbing on today.


Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : Butt Scratch (5.8)
By: BJB When: Aug 23, 2013

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Comments: Still polished, still just ok.


Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : Over Easy (5.9)
By: BJB When: Aug 23, 2013

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Comments: I rated this route three stars earlier, until I climbed it today and realized that there are good holds at the end of the roof that let you cut your feet and just hang. Four stars.


Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : It's A Wiggle Butt (5.8+)
By: BJB When: Aug 23, 2013

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Comments: The polished, slippery character of the rock makes this route feel harder than it is. Especially at the start and at the finish.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers : Uncensored Society (5.10b)
By: BJB When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: Loved this route. You can get some big dynamic moves from great holds to great holds.
I pretty much bounded my way up it until the very end. There's a spot at the finish that's a little harder than you expect, but then you reach up to another great, big hold and you're done. Really recommend it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Main : Inner Light (5.7)
By: BJB When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: I really enjoyed this. The angle of the first 15-20 is just less than vertical, so you can use really small holds that would normally make a climb pretty hard. The route demands a lot of balance and some good foot work.
Probably the most technical easy climb I've done.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Little Mill Area
By: BJB When: Jul 10, 2013

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Comments: I've had a hard time finding this area. I think the directions are based off of a campsite layout that no longer exists.
How do we find this area now?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Butterfingers (5.9+)
By: BJB When: Jul 6, 2013

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Comments: This route is really quite fun. The slaby moves in the beginning are kind of thrilling as you have to trust some less than ideal feet on smallish hands. The corner is also a cool feature with great holds. This one is worth doing.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : 26 (5.12a)
By: BJB When: Jul 6, 2013

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Comments: The route does not have a lot to offer beyond the fact that it offers one move that feels impossible, but is actually doable once you find a way to hold onto those nasty little holds.

These are the smallest holds that I have ever used. It was a cool feeling to finally stick the crux, but that amounts to about 3 memorable moves in 30 ft.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Black Rose : Fat Hippos (5.12a)
By: BJB When: Jun 8, 2013

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Comments: This climb became more and more fun for me as I found the minuscule holds for the middle section (between bolt 2 and 3). Despite the fact that the route is short, it has three distinct, fun sections: moderate slab climbing, hard crux, difficult and distinct flake finger lock things with bad feet. I really enjoyed the route. It packs a lot into its 4 bolts.


Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Serpent Wall : Blank Page (5.11a)
By: BJB When: Feb 16, 2013

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Comments: I only found 2 bolts on this route. I think this is actually a great route becuase there is not a lot else like it. The bolts are pretty spaced, yet perfectly placed giving the route a bit of a heady feel but without any real danger. The climbing in the second half is slabbly in a trad kind of way that I haven't seen a lot of at Reimer's.


Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : Die Easy (5.6)
By: BJB When: Sep 18, 2012

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Comments: No longer the last route on the wall. There's now a route called black sabbath to the right of it.


Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : Just For The Fun of It (5.10a)
By: BJB When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: The finish to this was really quite cool. I don't know why more people don't do this route (no one at the wall had done it the day I was there). Getting to the roof is pretty lame climbing, but the roof is a really cool lime stone hand crack running through a roof. I've never seen anything else quite like it. Great jams and good feet make for a really cool finish.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Black Streak (5.10a/b PG13)
By: BJB When: Aug 16, 2012

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Comments: Near the start of Black Streak there is a mysterious looking rope dangling in a crack to the left. Wondering what it was for, I approached it and was scared away by a massive shower of fist sized rocks that fell without warning from the top of the mountain. Stay away from the dangling rope!

This climb reminded me a lot of Squawstruck in Rock Canyon: 5 great pitches, two lousy scramble pitches; lots of loose rock; massive exposure; long sport climb in a spect... more >>


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