Comments: News Flash - All nine bolts on Madame Guillotine were recently replaced. All new bolts are 1/2" x 4.75" stainless Powers 5-piece. Allegedly completed by masked bandits with bad attitudes and a beat up Bosch.
Comments: Thanks to 3 recent sorties by members of the Action Committee for Eldorado, all old ring bolts are now removed, holes are pretty well camouflaged. Also, rings were added to the anchor at the bottom just in case anyone were to rap from there. FYI, those old ring bolts are a pain to remove. A Dremel tool with lots of batteries and lots and lots of fiber cutting wheels was the ticket, much easier than a reciprocating saw or hand saw. Pulling them out by force seems like a bad idea - forces are grea... more >>
Comments: Seemed really easy for the grade, compared to other routes in the area. One thin finger lock and a foot smear and you're through the crux. You can load up gear from an OK stance. Great way to finish off the day, worth the very short hike. Getting off is a little interesting. I would recommend against the OW downclimb. There is a way to hop over a small chasm to a flat flake on the side towards the road.
Comments: Great route! Basically a quick, reachy boulder problem just before the anchor. Look for the twin kneebar bat hang just before the crux and get your camera ready. Tried to pull the mantle at the end past the anchor for extra credit, not enough gas in the tank...
Comments: I agree with John - our rain ascent was memorable and fun! The crux was so wet that chalk made the holds much worse and involved a few campus moves with feet dangling uselessly below. That said, there is enough friction to climb this route when it is wet, the lichens aren't that bad. I nearly killed John with a rock which had been hiding in a bush during an attempt to sneak past a slabby crux down low. The many bolts keep the commitment level relatively low. A fun romp, not quite three star qual... more >>
Comments: Did this last weekend, what a great route! I'd say there isn't any need to replace the crux piton. (Spoiler Alert) If I were to go back again I'd have a quick draw with a #4 stopper and another draw with a #3 RP (to be placed along its longer axis) ready to go once you pass the roof after the dihedral of pitch five. I got the gear in, got to the bolt and reached for a clipping hold...that wasn't there. Stay in the crack to clip. Took a 10 footer onto the RP, and it held no problem. T... more >>
Comments: This was my first ever 5.10 toprope, back in 1989 or so. I went back and led it several years ago. It is a safe lead, but I was surprised at how it still felt hard after pulling the lip of the roof! This route will always hold special significance for me.
Comments: Just climbed this for my third time last week. Simul-climbed it in 3 pitches. I still love it! Don't be afraid of the chimneys. I got a little freaked in them my first time on the route (plus we took all day to do it and went down the wrong gully in the dark, ended up drinking water from stagnant pools in the middle of the night) but that is just part of the experience. Get up on it and enjoy it! Ignore the haters. Bring a #4 camalot and just keep pushing it above you when you are nervous.... more >>
Comments: Did this with Dave Anderson last week. An excellent route, with a few places that are so so. Here is some additional beta.
First of all, I would recommend using Nettle's topo - it just made more sense to me.
The first pitch felt hard for us - maybe we weren't warmed up but don't give up if it feels hard there. Stem. The RP section on pitch 4 is heads up but there is good gear to be found there. Dave used the trick where you girth-hitch a nut to an RP to extend your reach and was able to place ... more >>
Comments: Fantastic Route! Go do it. We stayed on top of the ridge at the top which was a bad idea for several reasons, not the least of which being that we were struck by lightning. Just got a little ground current but it was enough to freak our shit out a bit. After listening to our gear buzz for 20 minutes we made a dash and found some 5.8 climbing on the ridge and then a 15 foot rap that put us just about at the top of the Red Dihedral.
Comments: Jumped on this after doing a route on Arrowhead, so it was late and we were feeling tired. Soloed the start of North Ridge to gain Middle Earth ledge and traversed across to the route, belaying the last section. This was to avoid the snow at the base and to speed things up. We didn't have any beta other than old photo copies of the guidebook topo, so it was an adventure. We got off route a few times, including the pitch off Middle Earth which I believe we started too far to climber's right. On t... more >>
Comments: There is a loose hold at the top of the 7th pitch. It is a good bucket straight down but don't pull out on it or you'll send a rock the size of a large grapefruit to the bottom of the canyon. Great route by the way!
Comments: Excellent route! I bit of nasty rock before the last bolt kept it from getting 4 stars, but most of the rock is excellent. Bring a .4 (Grey) Camalot if you like. Webbing is getting nasty. I only did the first pitch. This could use a couple quick-links with carabiners on them instead of sunbleached webbing. Do this route.
Comments: Climbing The Edge with Erik Weihenmayer and Charley Mace was definitely one of the greatest climbing experiences I have ever had. It was so exciting to see him climb it. We didn't know exactly how it was going to go. It went really well. Check out the video. Don't use Erik's beta on pitch 4 unless it feels too easy the other way!
UPDATE 1/5/2011: Erik's ascent was named by Chris Weidner as one of the "Top climbing achievements of the decade" in the Fr... more >>
Comments: Just as Roy mentioned, there is a hueco in the left wall at the upper crux that is difficult to see from the ground. I tagged up a #4 C4 (IE new style) Camalot and it was bomber. Definitely takes the edge off the top runout and makes the route reasonable for someone solid at the grade, probably PG13 if you are persistent. Thanks to Tony Bubb for getting me psyched up to lead this today!
Comments: Finally got on this after thinking about it for 2 years. While it is a little scary to climb above the gear, there are no features below the crux, so I don't really think it is an R route. You are more likely to get hurt on the first pitch in my opinion. The crux is about V3, with jugs at the top - not as bad as I expected. Put 2 #2 Camalots in and go for it!