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Member Since: Sep 22, 2008
Last Visit: Jul 10, 2014
Contact Brady Robinson


Point Rank: # 6,031
Total Points: 54
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
59 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brady Robinson been climbing?










Contributions


All 180 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 3 | Page Improvments | Comments 29 | Posts 29 | Stars 77 | Ratings 41
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Madame Guillotine (5.12)
By: Brady Robinson When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: News Flash - All nine bolts on Madame Guillotine were recently replaced. All new bolts are 1/2" x 4.75" stainless Powers 5-piece. Allegedly completed by masked bandits with bad attitudes and a beat up Bosch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Hairstyles and Attitudes (5.12b/c)
By: Brady Robinson When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: Thanks to 3 recent sorties by members of the Action Committee for Eldorado, all old ring bolts are now removed, holes are pretty well camouflaged. Also, rings were added to the anchor at the bottom just in case anyone were to rap from there. FYI, those old ring bolts are a pain to remove. A Dremel tool with lots of batteries and lots and lots of fiber cutting wheels was the ticket, much easier than a reciprocating saw or hand saw. Pulling them out by force seems like a bad idea - forces are grea... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Obscure Buffalo Creek Rocks : deGaulle's Nose free route (5.11d)
By: Brady Robinson When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: Seemed really easy for the grade, compared to other routes in the area. One thin finger lock and a foot smear and you're through the crux. You can load up gear from an OK stance. Great way to finish off the day, worth the very short hike. Getting off is a little interesting. I would recommend against the OW downclimb. There is a way to hop over a small chasm to a flat flake on the side towards the road.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Da Butts : Igor Unleashed (5.11c)
By: Brady Robinson When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: Crux is gnarly and still evolving. Pretty hard even at 12a if you asked me, but I'm not a slab master....


Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : Cuttin' Cards for a Poke (5.12+)
By: Brady Robinson When: Dec 29, 2011

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Comments: Great route! Basically a quick, reachy boulder problem just before the anchor. Look for the twin kneebar bat hang just before the crux and get your camera ready. Tried to pull the mantle at the end past the anchor for extra credit, not enough gas in the tank...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Conversions (5.12 X)
By: Brady Robinson When: Dec 11, 2011

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Comments: Fun toprope, no interest in leading this thing however.


Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : Mount Royal (near Frisco) : Royal Rocklette ArÍte (5.11a)
By: Brady Robinson When: Oct 5, 2011

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Comments: I agree with John - our rain ascent was memorable and fun! The crux was so wet that chalk made the holds much worse and involved a few campus moves with feet dangling uselessly below. That said, there is enough friction to climb this route when it is wet, the lichens aren't that bad. I nearly killed John with a rock which had been hiding in a bush during an attempt to sneak past a slabby crux down low. The many bolts keep the commitment level relatively low. A fun romp, not quite three star qual... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Spear Me the Details (5.11d)
By: Brady Robinson When: Sep 15, 2011

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Comments: Did this last weekend, what a great route! I'd say there isn't any need to replace the crux piton. (Spoiler Alert) If I were to go back again I'd have a quick draw with a #4 stopper and another draw with a #3 RP (to be placed along its longer axis) ready to go once you pass the roof after the dihedral of pitch five. I got the gear in, got to the bolt and reached for a clipping hold...that wasn't there. Stay in the crack to clip. Took a 10 footer onto the RP, and it held no problem. T... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : s00kr33m (5.13b)
By: Brady Robinson When: Aug 3, 2011

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Comments: Loved it! Well worth a few hikes up the hill. I found the tall/weak/inflexible beta which really helped. Proper foot placement at the final lip is crucial.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak
By: Brady Robinson When: Jul 11, 2011

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Comments: I found a wedding ring near Hallett Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. Reply to this message and if you can describe it, I'll reunite you with your ring!

Brady


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The For Real Canyon : Reality Check (5.12)
By: Brady Robinson When: Feb 20, 2011

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Comments: Agree with Monty. AMAZING! Love the final move to the jug.


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : Prairie Walls Area : 5. Saturday Buttress : Jasper's Dihedral (5.8)
By: Brady Robinson When: Dec 7, 2010

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Comments: My first trad lead in 1989 with 1/2 set of stoppers and a 1/2 set of hexes. Couldn't afford a full set. The #11 hex came in real handy at the top!


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : Prairie Walls Area : 8. Everday Buttress : Lechery (5.10b)
By: Brady Robinson When: Dec 7, 2010

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Comments: This was my first ever 5.10 toprope, back in 1989 or so. I went back and led it several years ago. It is a safe lead, but I was surprised at how it still felt hard after pulling the lip of the roof! This route will always hold special significance for me.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: Brady Robinson When: Oct 31, 2010

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Comments: Just climbed this for my third time last week. Simul-climbed it in 3 pitches. I still love it! Don't be afraid of the chimneys. I got a little freaked in them my first time on the route (plus we took all day to do it and went down the wrong gully in the dark, ended up drinking water from stagnant pools in the middle of the night) but that is just part of the experience. Get up on it and enjoy it! Ignore the haters. Bring a #4 camalot and just keep pushing it above you when you are nervous.... more >>


Location: CO : Action Alert: Restore Climb...
By: Brady Robinson When: Aug 9, 2010

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Comments: I encourage interested climbers to take the time to read the Access Fund's full scoping comments for the Arches plan: bit.ly/9gVNX8


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Tradewinds (5.11d)
By: Brady Robinson When: Jul 25, 2010

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Comments: Did this with Dave Anderson last week. An excellent route, with a few places that are so so. Here is some additional beta.

First of all, I would recommend using Nettle's topo - it just made more sense to me.

The first pitch felt hard for us - maybe we weren't warmed up but don't give up if it feels hard there. Stem. The RP section on pitch 4 is heads up but there is good gear to be found there. Dave used the trick where you girth-hitch a nut to an RP to extend your reach and was able to place ... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Positive Vibrations (5.11a)
By: Brady Robinson When: Jul 25, 2010

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Comments: Fantastic Route! Go do it. We stayed on top of the ridge at the top which was a bad idea for several reasons, not the least of which being that we were struck by lightning. Just got a little ground current but it was enough to freak our shit out a bit. After listening to our gear buzz for 20 minutes we made a dash and found some 5.8 climbing on the ridge and then a 15 foot rap that put us just about at the top of the Red Dihedral.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasi... (5.10)
By: Brady Robinson When: Jul 25, 2010

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Comments: Very nice route, but Positive Vibrations is quite a bit better!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Syke's Sickle (5.9+)
By: Brady Robinson When: Jul 5, 2010

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Comments: Jumped on this after doing a route on Arrowhead, so it was late and we were feeling tired. Soloed the start of North Ridge to gain Middle Earth ledge and traversed across to the route, belaying the last section. This was to avoid the snow at the base and to speed things up. We didn't have any beta other than old photo copies of the guidebook topo, so it was an adventure. We got off route a few times, including the pitch off Middle Earth which I believe we started too far to climber's right. On t... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Texas Hold 'Em (5.11c)
By: Brady Robinson When: Mar 20, 2010

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Comments: There is a loose hold at the top of the 7th pitch. It is a good bucket straight down but don't pull out on it or you'll send a rock the size of a large grapefruit to the bottom of the canyon. Great route by the way!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Power Hungry (5.11+)
By: Brady Robinson When: Jan 10, 2010

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Comments: Excellent route! I bit of nasty rock before the last bolt kept it from getting 4 stars, but most of the rock is excellent. Bring a .4 (Grey) Camalot if you like. Webbing is getting nasty. I only did the first pitch. This could use a couple quick-links with carabiners on them instead of sunbleached webbing. Do this route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Brady Robinson When: Dec 13, 2009

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Comments: Climbing The Edge with Erik Weihenmayer and Charley Mace was definitely one of the greatest climbing experiences I have ever had. It was so exciting to see him climb it. We didn't know exactly how it was going to go. It went really well. Check out the video. Don't use Erik's beta on pitch 4 unless it feels too easy the other way!



UPDATE 1/5/2011: Erik's ascent was named by Chris Weidner as one of the "Top climbing achievements of the decade" in the Fr... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Air Mail (5.10a PG13)
By: Brady Robinson When: Nov 21, 2009

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Comments: Just as Roy mentioned, there is a hueco in the left wall at the upper crux that is difficult to see from the ground. I tagged up a #4 C4 (IE new style) Camalot and it was bomber. Definitely takes the edge off the top runout and makes the route reasonable for someone solid at the grade, probably PG13 if you are persistent. Thanks to Tony Bubb for getting me psyched up to lead this today!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : The Wisdom (5.11d R)
By: Brady Robinson When: Sep 28, 2009

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Comments: Finally got on this after thinking about it for 2 years. While it is a little scary to climb above the gear, there are no features below the crux, so I don't really think it is an R route. You are more likely to get hurt on the first pitch in my opinion. The crux is about V3, with jugs at the top - not as bad as I expected. Put 2 #2 Camalots in and go for it!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Circus Wall : Circus In My Pants (5.12d)
By: Brady Robinson When: Sep 8, 2009

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Comments: Fantastic route!


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