Comments: Climbing The Edge with Erik Weihenmayer and Charley Mace was definitely one of the greatest climbing experiences I have ever had. It was so exciting to see him climb it. We didn't know exactly how it was going to go. It went really well. Check out the video. Don't use Erik's beta on pitch 4 unless it feels too easy the other way!
UPDATE 1/5/2011: Erik's ascent was named by Chris Weidner as one of the "Top climbing achievements of the decade" in the Fr... more >>
Comments: Just as Roy mentioned, there is a hueco in the left wall at the upper crux that is difficult to see from the ground. I tagged up a #4 C4 (IE new style) Camalot and it was bomber. Definitely takes the edge off the top runout and makes the route reasonable for someone solid at the grade, probably PG13 if you are persistent. Thanks to Tony Bubb for getting me psyched up to lead this today!
Comments: Finally got on this after thinking about it for 2 years. While it is a little scary to climb above the gear, there are no features below the crux, so I don't really think it is an R route. You are more likely to get hurt on the first pitch in my opinion. The crux is about V3, with jugs at the top - not as bad as I expected. Put 2 #2 Camalots in and go for it!
Comments: I gave this route a go yesterday. The gear was heads up until the pod at mid-height, but the climbing up to that point isnít too bad. The fractured hold in the crack didnít inspire confidence, however. The crack is just left of the arÍte Ė at the crux I reached around to the right instead of jamming the off-fingers crack and found enough of an edge to get through it. It would be harder if you stayed in the crack, but a little contrived in my opinion. Good route.
Comments: I've been meaning to post about the rockfall. I was up there early April and the rockfall hadn't occurred yet. I was up again May 8 and noticed the rockfall. I'd say it happened late April. Anyone in the area probably would have heard it. Bone Crusher and the other splitters are unaffected, other than a few big boulders at the base. I agree that there is probably going to be another big rockfall event at some point which will bring down the rest of the sport climb.
Comments: Climbed the direct start last week by climbing around the easy way to clip the first bolt. It felt like a reachy V4 boulder problem and involved pulling on at least two blocks which may come out someday. The upper crack had interesting sections, but before the last bolt I used a hold that was covered in some black tar/poop and it felt like the rock quality was questionable. This route is worth it if you're feeling like placing some gear, but is probably the lowest quality route I've done at Anim... more >>