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Member Since: Sep 15, 2001
Last Visit: Feb 26, 2014
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Point Rank: # 2,671
Total Points: 182
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 90 | Routes 13 | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvments | Comments 47 | Posts 2 | Stars 21 | Ratings 6
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Le Boomerang (5.11+)
By: Brad Bond When: Sep 11, 2002

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Comments: I had the pleasure of following Derek up this route and was blown away to see him soloing it a few days later. He also used to solo pitch one of Say La Vee a bunch and would traverse out to the arete to the right of the dihederal(about 5.8 or so) and follow it up past the dihederal anchor to easier ground.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : X-M (5.10c R)
By: Brad Bond When: Aug 30, 2002

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Comments: That is a sneaky little #2 RP placement on the third pitch! I once managed to slip off after the crux and fell about 10 feet onto it and it held. Glad I didn't find out what woulda happened if it didn't. Scary.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Coach's Demise (5.9+)
By: Brad Bond When: Aug 28, 2002

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Comments: I never knew this route existed before Leo's post, so I had to go right out and get it! I have to agree on the bomb, but it's too bad we couldn't tag on a couple of negative stars. This would be minus-**.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Genius Loci (5.11d)
By: Brad Bond When: Aug 26, 2002

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Comments: I too wish the route had never been bolted and am glad that the upper bolts were removed. Prior to the bolts' removal, I remember hearing a lot of criticism from Lene's Dream climbers as to the proximity of the now removed bolts as well.

If the remaining part of the route has good climbing and isn't too offensive to the Naked Edge/Jule's Verne crew, why doesn't the first ascentionist apply to have a lower off anchor just left of the arete, about the same height of the Naked Edge pitch 1 anchor... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Out to Lunge (5.9 R)
By: Brad Bond When: Aug 6, 2002

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Comments: There is a pretty fun variation listed in the guidebook for pitch 2: Go up the left side of the slab and turn the roof at a thin crack (10d/11a). Gotta say, although it's short-lived, this is pretty damn hard for the grade and a wee bit hairy to protect. Did I mention reachy?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall
By: Brad Bond When: Aug 1, 2002

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Comments: I was descending the East Slabs today to find that someone had chalked in huge arrows -- about 1 ft. long and 40 ft apart with huge dots between -- showing the way the entire way down from the Naked Edge top out to the trail. I have noticed arrows (much smaller) showing the way for the walkoff on the Bastille as well. Whomever is doing this, please stop. Not only is it obnoxious grafitti, but people have been descending these cliffs for 40+ years without your help. The description for the descen... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Recovery Room : Coffee Pot Crack (5.11b)
By: Brad Bond When: Aug 1, 2002

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Comments: It sounds like this route should be removed from both the site and the cliff. Publicity and acceptance equals legitimacy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : X-M (5.10c R)
By: Brad Bond When: Jul 26, 2002

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Comments: If you're gripped about the nut on top of the flake, string additional runners over to the two-bolt anchor to back it up -- the nut would keep you from swinging inside the flake if the micronuts were to fail.

I think it's better to lead this way because if you were to fall on the micronuts, the catch would be very dynamic and they are more likely to hold. If you belay, you're looking at an awkward pull on the nuts as Joe desribes or placing nothing -- either way, a nasty fall for both the lead... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : For Whom the Bell Tolls (5.11b)
By: Brad Bond When: Jul 23, 2002

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Comments: Be sure to do your yoga beforehand as the wide stemming in the 10+ corner was about enough to pop my stiff legs out of joint. I had to boulder up and down the tricky crux start about 97 times before figuring it out, but I have to agree with Fred: 11b, though really fun climbing all the same.

For those who get offended by overbolting, the right-leaning corner, which looks blank from below, will hold bomber gear placements that could easily eliminate 3 or 4 bolts. Placing the pro would make it m... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Aquarium Wall : Gish (5.10a)
By: Brad Bond When: Jul 23, 2002

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Comments: This is a really fun route. The bolts were all right where I wanted them and the climbing is sustained and awesome. Two things: It's actually on the Aquarian Wall. The two bolt belay 15 ft. off the ground has a link on only one bolt (as of 7/23/02) so maybe bring one for the other bolt if you're headed that way.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : To Night (5.9+ R)
By: Brad Bond When: Jul 13, 2002

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Comments: I thought this one deserved the "vs" rating, but I guess I could have missed something (like the pro!). A good way to do this route is to continue strait up the right-facing corner above the anchors on Night , which is 9+ s (second pitch of Night?), and then left on the obvious left-leaning crack system (also 9) and up to easier ground. A long, fun and spicy "5.9" outing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Bulge (5.7 R)
By: Brad Bond When: Jul 12, 2002

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Comments: Just wanted to add that it is possible to lead the first three pitches in one 200' pitch. This is obviously easier with double ropes and long runners and not placing much pro and knowing where the route goes, but it works quite well. The "5.9" direct finish is about 5.7/8 with great pro.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Ariana (5.12a)
By: Brad Bond When: Jun 27, 2002

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Comments: Pitches 1 + 2 to the top of the mitten go in one 60-meter pitch. Anyone who is a solid 5.11 crack climber should not be scared of the rating and get on this route. The crux pitch is sustained and pumpy, but none of the moves are 12a.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Chance of Rain (5.11a X)
By: Brad Bond When: Jun 22, 2002

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Comments: Chance of Rain - 5.10b/c sClimb up the slab to the left of Rain and follow a poorly-protected seam up to an awkward bulge (8 or 9) past a poor fixed pin (about 10 feet to the right of the 5.9 on the first pitch of the Northwest Corner) to a good stance. Reach left and place pro in the NW corner, then make a funky traverse right (10) to the stance above the roof on rain. Clip another manky fixed pin in a small left facing corner and then climb up and slightly left to a downward pointing flake. Fi... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Lost Cities (5.12- R)
By: Brad Bond When: Jun 21, 2002

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Comments: This is an everybody route. Great description, except I thought it was worthy of the three-star grade!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The West Arete (of T1) (5.9+ X)
By: Brad Bond When: Jun 21, 2002

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Comments: The guidebook shows some fixed pins around the area of the crux but they are gone (there might be one up higher where it's easy). I saw some pin scars but was unable to wiggle in anything so the crux has to be done about 30 or 40 feet above gear. Spicy.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Leisure Climb (5.9)
By: Brad Bond When: May 24, 2002

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Comments: It's a pile. Do Midsummer's Night Dream -- way better climbing.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : A Midsummer's Night Dream (5.11a)
By: Brad Bond When: May 24, 2002

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Comments: This is a great route. I found the crux to be kind of light for .11a it has great gear with fun moves and relatively simple route finding with a fixed beak (wow!).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Plinth (5.10b R)
By: Brad Bond When: May 15, 2002

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Comments: This is a pretty fun route. The runout is only 5.9s and is straitforward with good holds. Once the bolt is clipped it is safe face climbing strait up and is about 10b and really fun moves. Going right at the bolt only misses the fun part of the route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Diamond Head : Facets (5.10c)
By: Brad Bond When: May 15, 2002

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Comments: We did this thing again and Eric found an easier way to do the crux. Instead of trying to stem out left, stem strait up the box and look for a finger lock up and right. Done this way the crux is entering the dihederal -- 10 or maybe 10+. Still really fun!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Leisure Climb (5.9)
By: Brad Bond When: May 4, 2002

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Comments: Figuring out the crux is tricky, but I did it like Steve describes. Other than the 20 feet of climbing at the crux, this route is a pile. Don't do it. Find something else to climb, go fishing, drink beer, talk to the rangers...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Front Side Lip Smack (5.10b R)
By: Brad Bond When: Mar 15, 2002

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Comments: Eric Johnson and I did the second ascent about two weeks after this route was put up (the chalk was still fresh). It's pretty good and well worth doing. It is a little gripper at the bulge, and a wee-bit hard for 10b, but the crack above is sweeeeet!


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