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Member Since: Sep 15, 2001
Last Visit: 4 days ago
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Point Rank: # 2,627
Total Points: 202
Last Year: 21
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brad Bond been climbing?










Contributions


All 95 | Routes 13 | Areas | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 47 | Posts 3 | Stars 21 | Ratings 6
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Conan (5.11c/d)
By: Brad Bond When: Jan 14, 2004

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Comments: Skip rope-soloed the first ascent of this route in the early '80s, freeing it onsight while using a solo system of tying and untying overhand knots as there were no fancy rope-soloing devices back in the day.

This route is a blast! From the anchor it's easy to toprope Extreme, which felt a touch harder than Conan and seemed like it would be scary to lead. These routes get great late-day sun in the winter and are worth the slog up the gully.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : The Obelisk (5.11a)
By: Brad Bond When: Jul 21, 2003

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Comments: Wow, that's the worst beta I've ever given in my life! I meant to say three #4.5 Camalots. #4's are dead weight. Sorry about that...


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : The Obelisk (5.11a)
By: Brad Bond When: Jul 18, 2003

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Comments: Three stars if combined with Pervertical and four if you start on the first pitch of Ariana. The traverse left off pitch three of Pervertical is very inobvious; I think it's just below the bolt and in the vicinity of 5.9 or 10a, but the climbing could easily become harder if you go the wrong way.

We brought gear to 3.5" and three #4 Camalots, which worked perfectly. Running pitch one and two (as described above) is tough, as I found myself heli-pumped at the top of the handcrac... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Dreamweaver (M2-3)
By: Brad Bond When: Jun 27, 2003

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Comments: I was wondering if anyone knows if this has had a ski descent? Either way, are their any experienced skiers who have climbed this in spring conditions and would be willing to offer their opinion on what this would entail? It sounds like it's a little late this year, but it looks pretty rad.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak : North Face Ski Descent (Mod. Snow R)
By: Brad Bond When: Jun 18, 2003

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Comments: I've skied the North Face twice in the past month and found it to be one of the best I've ever done. We were unable to find a way to drive all the way up Grizzly Gulch. The road ended at a mine. From there, walk back down the road about 100 feet and find a footbridge that crosses the creek and takes you up the hill to another road that leads up-vally to the couloirs(about a half hour). This road didn't look like it had seen much vehicle traffic. We hiked up and descended the obvious huge couloir... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Tubesock Tanline (5.11d R)
By: Brad Bond When: Jun 16, 2003

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Comments: Eric Johnson led this last summer in his effort to conquer his list of (personally) undone hard and heinous obscurities. His onsight attempt resulted in a fall that was held by the upside down kb, equalized with a small RP. He fell about 25ft and the rope caught him as he decked, providing just enough stretch to keep bones from getting broken. He went back up and sent it next try.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Brad Bond When: Jun 15, 2003

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Comments: A grey Metolius TCU can be placed blindly in the shallow, left-facing corner above the crux. It's actually quite bomber (I've almost fixed it!) and protects the hard high-step into the corner (if this feels scary, use double ropes). Once standing in the corner, all kinds of RPs and other stuff can be placed -- of course standing there and doing so is a whole different story. I don't think this pitch deserves an "s," but it is a hard and exciting lead for the grade; if you wobble, it'll... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Parallels (5.11b)
By: Brad Bond When: Jun 15, 2003

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Comments: In my opinion 5.11c, three stars. It might feel a tad-bit easier on toprope as part of the difficulty comes from placing the gear. Concerning the "s" rating in the guidebook, my guess is that this route was much more difficult to lead without modern micro-cams, which felt very crucial at the crux.My advise to someone who is psyched to lead this route: Place all the gear at waist level; if you reach up and plug a cam in the fingerlocks above, you will increase the difficulty. Be efficie... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Outer Face (5.10 R)
By: Brad Bond When: Jun 13, 2003

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Comments: ...The step-across onto the undercling flake can be protected by a 3.5 friend placed to the right in a funky heuco. The placement is hard to see at first but it's actually pretty good.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Plastic Jesus (5.11b R)
By: Brad Bond When: Mar 16, 2003

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Comments: I have done this both ways and would advise going left at the top. The right finish requires the leader to yard (In my case, for dear life!) on a huge loose flake that feels like it could come off, a good ways above the last piece.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Mellow Fellow (5.12a)
By: Brad Bond When: Mar 12, 2003

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Comments: There is a fairly decent pin in the middle of the roof, which protects the crux getting to the lip(5.11d +). Have a 2.5 friend ready to fire into a bomber placement just above the lip, then be prepared for 10+ slab moves to the belay stance.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Brad Bond When: Dec 14, 2002

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Comments: Technically speaking, Astroman isn't much harder than the Edge. The pump/endurance factor is another issue. It sounds like you're there technically, so go to Indian Creek and spend a week climbing 5.11 or 11+ enduro cracks and you'll be there. The Rostrum is a good warm-up, but the Man is considerably harder. Don't stress out about flashing it; it's just an awesome feature to climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Crow's Landing (5.10 PG13)
By: Brad Bond When: Nov 19, 2002

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Comments: Did this route a year or so ago and would agree with option 1 for pitch 1, except I don't remember it being scary. We did one more pitch to the top, following as shown on the topo in the guidebook. The 10+ start to this pitch is harder than it looks and is very scary as there is the slab to land on and the pro is questionable. The face above the small tree I remember being in the 5.9 range but with doubious rock and protection -- just a matter of finding the right path I guess. I think one star ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : The Green Room (5.10c R)
By: Brad Bond When: Nov 18, 2002

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Comments: I found the moves over the initial bulge and up to the good protection to be about 5.8+ vs.-- as in insecure high stepping on licheny holds with a 30 ft. ledge fall. (Sounds like "vs" to me!)

So I, as the Brit's like to say, "wobbled." I traversed up and right to the second bolt on Pt. Break and clipped it with a double-length runner and this gave me no rope drag problems with the rest of the route. Even with this bolt clipped 20 ft. to my right, running out the 8+ was still "s," but made me h... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Windy (5.11a/b R)
By: Brad Bond When: Nov 15, 2002

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Comments: I didn't have a #5 Camalot and thought it was ok -- other than the runnout above the crux where you're gonna eat shit anyway. I got a #3 and 4 Camalot about 1 foot underneath where the 5 would have gone and several wires above the #5 placement. Either way, commiting to the crux is scary and a wee bit hard even for the grade given here.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Thin Ice (5.9+ X)
By: Brad Bond When: Nov 14, 2002

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Comments: ...The gear also takes up most of the fingerlock and I placed it somewhat blindly from a stance on the right side of the arete.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Thin Ice (5.9+ X)
By: Brad Bond When: Nov 14, 2002

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Comments: A thread of 1/2" webbing can be slung around a small horn before cranking [left] around the arete to the fingerlock, as well as the RPs mentioned. A bomber green alien-sized piece will fit in the fingerlock. (I downclimbed to the ground where we bounce-tested the hell out of it!) This will be the only gear keeping you off the ground if you fall when doing the crux moves, so if you fall and it holds then the route is probably "s"; if it doesn't, then "vs." Once your feet are a few feet ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Aid Roof (C2)
By: Brad Bond When: Oct 23, 2002

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Comments: Comparing the addition of bolts to this route to those on CCC is not fair. CCC was put up when there was crap for gear and free climbing was not what it is today.

While I am a far cry from sending this route free, I have climbed similar features such as Separate Reality or Welcome To China (near Gunnison) where placing gear and having the rope get in the way of my feet was a large part of the difficulty. My guess is that some of these difficulties are why the bolts were added to this route, as ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Le Boomerang (5.11+)
By: Brad Bond When: Sep 11, 2002

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Comments: I had the pleasure of following Derek up this route and was blown away to see him soloing it a few days later. He also used to solo pitch one of Say La Vee a bunch and would traverse out to the arete to the right of the dihederal(about 5.8 or so) and follow it up past the dihederal anchor to easier ground.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : X-M (5.10c R)
By: Brad Bond When: Aug 30, 2002

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Comments: That is a sneaky little #2 RP placement on the third pitch! I once managed to slip off after the crux and fell about 10 feet onto it and it held. Glad I didn't find out what woulda happened if it didn't. Scary.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Coach's Demise (5.9+)
By: Brad Bond When: Aug 28, 2002

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Comments: I never knew this route existed before Leo's post, so I had to go right out and get it! I have to agree on the bomb, but it's too bad we couldn't tag on a couple of negative stars. This would be minus-**.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Genius Loci (5.11d)
By: Brad Bond When: Aug 26, 2002

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Comments: I too wish the route had never been bolted and am glad that the upper bolts were removed. Prior to the bolts' removal, I remember hearing a lot of criticism from Lene's Dream climbers as to the proximity of the now removed bolts as well.

If the remaining part of the route has good climbing and isn't too offensive to the Naked Edge/Jule's Verne crew, why doesn't the first ascentionist apply to have a lower off anchor just left of the arete, about the same height of the Naked Edge pitch 1 anchor... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Out to Lunge (5.9 R)
By: Brad Bond When: Aug 6, 2002

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Comments: There is a pretty fun variation listed in the guidebook for pitch 2: Go up the left side of the slab and turn the roof at a thin crack (10d/11a). Gotta say, although it's short-lived, this is pretty damn hard for the grade and a wee bit hairy to protect. Did I mention reachy?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall
By: Brad Bond When: Aug 1, 2002

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Comments: I was descending the East Slabs today to find that someone had chalked in huge arrows -- about 1 ft. long and 40 ft apart with huge dots between -- showing the way the entire way down from the Naked Edge top out to the trail. I have noticed arrows (much smaller) showing the way for the walkoff on the Bastille as well. Whomever is doing this, please stop. Not only is it obnoxious grafitti, but people have been descending these cliffs for 40+ years without your help. The description for the descen... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Recovery Room : Coffee Pot Crack (5.11b)
By: Brad Bond When: Aug 1, 2002

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Comments: It sounds like this route should be removed from both the site and the cliff. Publicity and acceptance equals legitimacy.


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