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Member Since: Sep 15, 2001
Last Visit: Feb 26, 2014
Contact Brad Bond


Point Rank: # 2,592
Total Points: 182
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (90) | Routes (13) | Areas | Photos (1) | Comments (47) | Posts (2) | Stars (21) | Ratings (6)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Let Them Eat Cake (FA)

5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a R (1)

Trad, 1 pitch, 80'

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - W Face

Jun 14, 2003

Auntie Perspirant

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R (1)

Trad, 2 pitches, 150'

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - part A - Versc...

Nov 18, 2002

Super Power

5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a (3)

Trad, 2 pitches, 150'

CO : Flatirons : ... : Dreadnaught

Aug 20, 2002

Off the List (aka Genuine Risk ?) (FA)

5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b (2)

Trad, 1 pitch, 200'

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - S Buttress

Jun 18, 2002

The Everybody Route (FA)

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b (1)

Trad, 1 pitch, 150'

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to...

May 28, 2002

Journey Through Mirkwood

5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a (3)

Trad, 2000'

CO : Gunnison : ... : The Painted Wall

Mar 1, 2002

Cameron's Corner (FA)

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c (3)

Trad, 1 pitch

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : Diamond Head

Feb 19, 2002

Uncle Chip (FA)

5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b (1)

Trad

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : Diamond Head

Feb 19, 2002

Facets (FA)

5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b (2)

Trad

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : Diamond Head

Feb 12, 2002

V2 (FA)

5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R (1)

Trad

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : Diamond Head

Feb 11, 2002

Fistful of Diamonds (FA)

5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a (1)

Trad

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : Diamond Head

Feb 10, 2002

The Killing Fields (FA)

5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R (1)

Trad, 1 pitch

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Rincon - Center Route & R

Oct 15, 2001

Kill All Bad Brown Dogs (FA)

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a (2)

Trad

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : Diamond Head

Sep 15, 2001

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
North Face of Rock Point Spire. The route climbs the thin splitter on the summit block and traverses to the right shoulder. The variation climbs the left-facing corner (left of the splitter, catching shade) to the shoulder followed by cracks on the left skyline to the summit.

North Face of Rock Point Spire. The route climbs the thin splitter on the summit block and traverses to the right shoulder. The variation climbs the left-facing corner (left of the splitter, catching

AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : Rock Point Spire, N. Face (5.9 A3)

Apr 5, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : The Rose (5.10a)
By: Brad Bond When: Feb 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I am also sad that someone placed bolts on these routes. These routes have been climbed routinely for +-30 years without need of an anchor, and topping out on either route is not trivial and IMO adds to the experience of climbing the route. Looks like the thrill of the finish has been taken away from both routes.
I'd vote for pulling both of these anchors.


Location: VT : Winooski Cut
By: Brad Bond When: Jun 11, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Wow. Are the bolts still there?


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Navajolands : Central Reservation Climbs : Rock Point Spire, N. Face (5.9 A3)
By: Brad Bond When: Apr 12, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed this tower a few weeks ago at 5.9 C1. We did it in two pitches, but unintentionally (didn't read this first) added a variation. Instead of climbing the splitter on the summit block, I stepped left and climbed a left-facing corner to the left shoulder, then climbed cracks past a VERY loose block and 5.9 mantle to the summit(see photo). This variation isn't recommended, but I can't say I'd recommend the tower for it's quality of climbing alone(cool tower and setting, bad rock).

I know som... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Elanor (5.11d)
By: Brad Bond When: Jul 31, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: I'm usually in favor of removing bolts if they are placed next to a handcrack, but I don't think this is the case with this route. I've only done this route 3 or 4 times, but is seemed that while there were a few bomber gear placements, others wouldn't be so bomber and the gear would be difficult to place, probably resulting in an "s" rating -- depending on which bolts were left. Sure, Steve D., myself and others would have put this route up differently, but we didn't.

As for Greaser and AC: Wh... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Giuoco Piano Direct (5.10b/c R)
By: Brad Bond When: Jun 1, 2004

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Comments: This route is pretty tough and scary for the grade given -- one of those "Eldo 10c's" that could be 11a and the "s" could be "vs," depending, of course, on if you fell and if all the nuts and tcu's you spent an hour tinkering in behind loose flakes and in chossy cracks actually held (OK placements, not so good rock). The crux is pretty commiting and reachy, but the holds get better and good gear comes just when you really need it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Silver Raven (5.11d)
By: Brad Bond When: May 19, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: I think the "s" on this route is another leftover from the early 80's when there were no micro cams. Going up on this route with a couple sets of TCU's and Aliens feels much more comforting than the thought of using nuts alone. Even with the new gear, this is a challenging lead as the gear is below your feet when climbing through the crux, and is very strenuous to place up high. (OK, maybe it still deserves and "s") This route -- finishing on the .11a crux of Grand Course -- can be led in one lo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Erki Nool (WGA) (5.11d)
By: Brad Bond When: Jan 14, 2004

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Comments: This route is a great addition to the wall -- fun moves with huge holds just when you need them. It's a good warm-up for Conan or Extreme; it's a little easier but gives you a good pump.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Conan (5.11c/d)
By: Brad Bond When: Jan 14, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Skip rope-soloed the first ascent of this route in the early '80s, freeing it onsight while using a solo system of tying and untying overhand knots as there were no fancy rope-soloing devices back in the day.

This route is a blast! From the anchor it's easy to toprope Extreme, which felt a touch harder than Conan and seemed like it would be scary to lead. These routes get great late-day sun in the winter and are worth the slog up the gully.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : The Obelisk (5.11a)
By: Brad Bond When: Jul 21, 2003

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Comments: Wow, that's the worst beta I've ever given in my life! I meant to say three #4.5 Camalots. #4's are dead weight. Sorry about that...


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : The Obelisk (5.11a)
By: Brad Bond When: Jul 18, 2003

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Comments: Three stars if combined with Pervertical and four if you start on the first pitch of Ariana. The traverse left off pitch three of Pervertical is very inobvious; I think it's just below the bolt and in the vicinity of 5.9 or 10a, but the climbing could easily become harder if you go the wrong way.

We brought gear to 3.5" and three #4 Camalots, which worked perfectly. Running pitch one and two (as described above) is tough, as I found myself heli-pumped at the top of the handcrac... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Dreamweaver (M2-3)
By: Brad Bond When: Jun 27, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: I was wondering if anyone knows if this has had a ski descent? Either way, are their any experienced skiers who have climbed this in spring conditions and would be willing to offer their opinion on what this would entail? It sounds like it's a little late this year, but it looks pretty rad.


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