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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : In Search of Unicorns (5.11- R)
By: Bosier Parsons When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure, but I think that Stewart's comment about Ed aid-soloing the route was also written in the context of previous comments about how good the gear is the whole way - definitely does not deserve an R rating.
As a local Springs climber, I enjoy hearing and reading the historical radness that was taking place on a seemingly daily basis by the aforementioned group of hardmen. It's often inspirational, especially when puckering on loose, runout Garden sandstone!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Brain Cramps (5.9+)
By: Bosier Parsons When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I added descriptions and photos for The Eastern Front and The Fiend. Hope that helps avoid confusion.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : Scarecrow (5.10b R)
By: Bosier Parsons When: Oct 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Stewart! Even better job back in the day! Puts so much into perspective....
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires
By: Bosier Parsons When: Oct 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thank you, Stewart and Jimmie!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Escape Artist (5.9+)
By: Bosier Parsons When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this yesterday, and a 70m rope from the right rappel anchor at the top will leave you just three feet shy of the bottom of the gully with an easy step down from the end of your rope.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : Scarecrow (5.10b R)
By: Bosier Parsons When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I finally led this climb today via the direct start. There's a great #0.5 Camalot which protects the overhang at the bottom. Get up to the bulge, then step a little left and you'll see this nice horizontal placement. It's still a bit exciting because of the nature of the rock and the steepness, but if you fall there, you will not deck. Once you gain the ledge, there's plenty of gear in the crack above, so get on this climb!
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires
By: Bosier Parsons When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gear Alert - see my photo above - one of the three pitons on the anchor for the Red Spire has come out. The other two seem fine, but given the amount of traffic here, perhaps we should get this fixed. Stewart - wanna take me up there with you to get this done?
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : Rocket Fuel (5.11b)
By: Bosier Parsons When: Aug 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led this today - great climb. You can place a #0.75 Camalot to protect the first 20 feet or so, but soon enough this becomes worthless. Then just below the first pin, you can place a green C3 Camalot (#0), which may or may not hold. Above the second pin you can also place a medium stopper or a #0.4 Camalot (grey). Either way, the slab at the bottom really isn't bad if you're ready for this climb, but I was still glad to place some gear. Hope that helps....
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap
By: Bosier Parsons When: Jul 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So it appears that Lovers Leap has a NW aspect. Am I seeing this right? Just trying to figure out what kind of shade it might receive at what times of day? I'm here visiting in Reno for a couple weeks, and it's 100 degree weather here. Will the Leap be too hot? Any recommendations are appreciated.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Max's Mayhem (5.10 PG13)
By: Bosier Parsons When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to say I was completely covered in sand after leading this pitch. I felt like I had just come from a week-long trip to the desert - but it was definitely worth it. Watch out on that off-width section at the top of the wideness - felt pretty desperate!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Capitol Peak : Northeast Ridge (Knife-Edge... : Photo
By: Bosier Parsons When: Jun 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks a lot! The whole day was a huge lesson in commitment and alpine style climbing. We drove up there as a group of four, and soon realized that Josh forgot our rack and second rope. Our friends let us rob them of a few cams and hexes and about 1/2 set of stoppers. In the morning we started climbing with this skimpy rack and one rope, with Dave and Kishen climbing below us (with a standard rack and two ropes). Our thoughts were that we could bail with them if needed, but we were soon far... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : Dragnet (5.11a)
By: Bosier Parsons When: May 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Bob! I'll update the description, too.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : The Castle
By: Bosier Parsons When: Apr 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I added a description of Baron's Estate (the rock formation below and to the left of the Castle), along with the route The Baron, back in July, 08. It can be found under the Buffalo Creek section. Certainly not a destination in and of itself, but we enjoyed it as a bonus approach pitch, especially considering the heinous slog up to The Castle. Just wanted to let people know.
We also climbed a moderate hand and fist crack on the far right side of The Castle, just left of the gully and left of... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Nose (aka Mid-Columbine... : The Nose (5.9+)
By: Bosier Parsons When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this again last night. The roof was definitely more strenuous than I remember it. The cordalette anchor above the roof (which I installed the last time I climbed it) is still in good condition. We did climb the upper pitch, which is good, and in my opinion easier, but it has it's fill of questionable rock, so be careful. The rappel from the top is a couple slings on a bolder/chockstone. We left a couple old biners up there, and rappelled to the west with one 70m rope.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space
By: Bosier Parsons When: Apr 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We found a pair of shoes at the base of High H20 on Wednesday, April 15th. Let me know if they're yours and I'll find a way to get them back to you.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Upper Finger Traverse (5.9 PG13)
By: Bosier Parsons When: Mar 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have shared some emails with Stewart about this and I agree that if you climb this, it would be better to finish up and left on the ridge about 40-50 more feet to gain access to the anchor at the top of the last pitch of Tidrick's. From here, the rappel would be easier than how I did it. I just didn't want to provide any information on an anchor which I had not seen or used. If I get back up there, I'll update the condition of the Tidrick's anchor. At least the new webbing we left is sligh... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : The Zipper (5.11d A0 PG13) : Photo
By: Bosier Parsons When: Feb 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just curious who is the climber?
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : In Between (aka Right Dihed... (5.9 R)
By: Bosier Parsons When: Nov 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the comment Brian. I climbed this maybe 10 years prior to posting the route, so my memory was a little vague, especially on how well the traverse protected. I figured it was better to make it sound spicier than maybe it is (according to your comment on the protection), just for climbers who aren't as comfortable with run-outs or traverses.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : West Face (The Pinnacle Wes... : Crack Parallel (5.7)
By: Bosier Parsons When: Oct 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can also climb this in one long rope-stretching pitch with a 70m rope. It requires some thoughtfulness in terms of the protection and runners and making sure you don't have too much drag at the top (I usually skip some bolts along the way). I recommend finishing straight up the slab, which seems like 5.7+ to me, while the rest of the climb seems easier. At the very top, sling a large bollard-like feature of rock with a cordalette, then back it up using the bolts that are missing hangers b... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Sun Slabs : El Nino (5.11)
By: Bosier Parsons When: Oct 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: All three hangers on the first pitch (approach slab) are now missing, but you can always use wired nuts to protect, or just go around on the left as Julian describes.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Borgoff's Blunder (5.10a)
By: Bosier Parsons When: Oct 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had the pleasure of following Mike Houston up the whole route on Sunday. Great climbing all the way to the top, but definitely Garden spice. The description below is how we climbed the upper pitches. Info is taken from Mark Rolofson's guide.
P2) Layback up the short corner above the belay to gain a big ledge behind a flake and belay on top of a pillar. (5.7, 50 feet)
P3) Climb a thin and steep face past four pitons to a slab, then run it out to a nice belay on Hollywood Ledge with two pi... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Parking Lot Corners (5.10)
By: Bosier Parsons When: Oct 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Stewart. I've updated the route name.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : South Ridge, Red Spire (5.8 R)
By: Bosier Parsons When: Oct 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This description actually sounds like Incline Ledge. The South Ridge of the Red Spire starts just left of the true south ridge and climbs up to and over the roof on the direct south ridge, then continues on easier climbing to the summit. See the picture I posted for more info.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : North Face of White Spire (5.10b)
By: Bosier Parsons When: Oct 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another fun variation is to lay-back off the left arete, just left of the crack/seam/piton scars. The lower down you try to start this, the more difficult. Again, good to TR.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : The Fixer (5.11a)
By: Bosier Parsons When: Sep 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A 70m rope leaves you about 5-10 feet off the ground when rappelling, but it's easy to down-climb from there. If you extend the anchor a little, it works just barely for top-roping, but still tie a knot in the end of your rope to be safe.
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