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Location: UT : Saint George : Woodbury Road Crags : Black and Tan : Crime and Punishment (5.10a)
By: boltclippinfool When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb, clip the 2nd bolt of Glutton for Punishment and head left through a bulge with some cool pockets. There's also another line of bolts between Crime and Punishment and Glutton for Punishment. Clip the 6th bolt of Glutton for Punishment and head up the blocky face to the left. I seem to remember 5 bolts to rap rings, 5.10-. Def. worth doing.
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Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Mystic Dictator (5.10b)
By: boltclippinfool When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: That first bolt is definitely up there, but you can clip the first bolt of Harsh Reality with a long runner. There's also another funky run out from the Mid-anchors to the next bolt, which is up and right, over the roof. A #1 or 2 Camalot would've been nice. Fun moves through the first bulge!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Milky Way Wall : Deep Impact (5.9)
By: boltclippinfool When: May 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the key 5.9 hold (between bolt 2&3) must've broke off this one. There's still some crumbly rock on this route, be careful.
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Location: UT : Saint George : Woodbury Road Crags : Kelly's Rock : Gnashing of Teeth (5.10b)
By: boltclippinfool When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be aware, a fall at bolt #7 (last clip before the anchors) could result in hitting the slab below.
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Location: UT : Saint George : Woodbury Road Crags : The Solstice
By: boltclippinfool When: Dec 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Holy Chert! What a cool little cold weather climbing zone! Thought provoking climbing on featured (sometimes sharp) stone. Seems solid enough to me, nothing broke on us while we were here. I will say though, it takes a route or two to get used to the rock.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe : Trust Me, I Lie (5.10a)
By: boltclippinfool When: Dec 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, you lie about the rating! Either I missed something really obvious, or a hold broke, cause that ain't 9+/10a.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe
By: boltclippinfool When: Dec 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: So, you can see The Fringe from the parking lot, it's a pretty obvious feature. Go to the end of the parking lot and hang a right on a narrow trail immediately as you hit the gravel road. Then take a left on a well traveled, wide trail. Stay on this trail (it heads directly towards the crag, bear right at any forks) until you reach the wash. Cross the wash and head up the ramp that leads up to the wall. Fun area, the only loose rock we found was on the pillar by Hippie Vest (don't touch that thi... more >>
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Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Gordian Knot (5.10d)
By: boltclippinfool When: Dec 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! Cool moves and great position, especially on pitch 2. Start on the first pitch of Presence (5.9) then link pitch 2 & 3, bring a couple of long runners... awesome! 4th pitch is 5.hard, but you can bump 20ft. right to the anchors of Sticky Revelations for a final pitch of 10a.
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Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Remains to be Seen (5.10a)
By: boltclippinfool When: Sep 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: First move off the ground could be 10a'ish? Harder for short folks. Rest of the climb is pretty cruzer, fun climbing on delicate varnish edges. Bring some long runners as the bolts kind of zig-zag a bit. The anchors for Remains to be seen are placed way back on the upper ledge and seemed like a recipe for a stuck rope. We rapped off some anchors I spotted up and climbers right. (further right than cosmic connection, not sure what route this is, it's not on MP or in the guide. Looks cool!). One r... more >>
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Scout Lake
By: boltclippinfool When: Sep 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you park at the paved road with the boulders, there is definitely a distinguishable trail that is directly across the road. This, I believe is the way the guide book tells you to go. However, we found it much easier if you walk back down Highway 150 (West) and enter the drainage about 50 yds. past the speed limit sign. Once entering the drainage follow the talus/tree line up the hill. After about 10-15 min you will come across some boyscout trails. Stay right at all the junctions. You'll pass... more >>
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - West : Batwings (5.8+)
By: boltclippinfool When: Aug 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Killer crack! Enjoy the steep slab of Batwings Direct to avoid ropedrag.
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Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Blind Pig (5.10a)
By: boltclippinfool When: Aug 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route! I thought the crux move over the lower roof is a bit harder than 10a, it's over quick tho. Then, pretty cruiser to the second roof, which has huge holds. I wedged a medium stopper here for peace of mind. Once you turn the final roof you'll encounter a beautiful, seemingly featureless shield of dark stone. Press onwards to find cool edges right where you need them to get you to the chains.
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Ruth Lake : Warrior Wall : Rain Dance (5.10d)
By: boltclippinfool When: Aug 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thin moves for the first couple clips, backs off a bit after that. Short.
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Ruth Lake : Warrior Wall : The Last Warrior (5.10b)
By: boltclippinfool When: Aug 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some fun moves and monkeyesque climbing up a cool flake.
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area : Sacred Hoop (5.10a)
By: boltclippinfool When: Aug 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I Love Clippin' Bolts! Sinker holds in cool triangular pockets, gets nice n' steep after the ledge.
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area : The Legend (5.10c)
By: boltclippinfool When: Aug 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. Fun and interesting moves over multiple roofs. Good rock.
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Ruth Lake : Last Stand Wall : Sweat Lodge (5.10b)
By: boltclippinfool When: Aug 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stay out of the crack on the right for full value at the roof. Sweet horizontals and nice exposure at the top!
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Mosquito Wall : Slow Dance with Liberty (5.10a/b)
By: boltclippinfool When: Aug 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: One thin move (after the 2nd bolt I think), then good edges to the chains.
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Mosquito Wall : Mosquito Coast (5.9+)
By: boltclippinfool When: Aug 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun and sustained. One of the better ones on the wall.
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Mosquito Wall : Saturday the 14th (5.10a)
By: boltclippinfool When: Aug 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Contrived.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Tsunami (5.10b)
By: boltclippinfool When: Aug 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Steep exposure, old school bolting and some loose rock (pulled off a tennis ball sized chunk), make this a fairly heady lead. Bring some gear for before the first bolt. This route hits the roofs to left of N.W. Passages' first pitch. You can rap from the first pitch anchors of N.W.P.
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