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Member Since: Aug 21, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 362
Total Points: 1,664
Last Year: 197
Last 30 Days: 4
136 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 2543 | Routes 55 | Areas 3 | Photos 107 | Page Improvements | Comments 534 | Posts 509 | Stars 704 | Ratings 631
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Geezer Wall
By: Boissal When: 3 days ago

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Comments: One suggestion would be to keep quiet about the new bolts. Superfluous hardware has a habit of vanishing from these easily protectable lines...
I don't think "clipped" means what you think it means.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : The Rumba (5.10b)
By: Boissal When: 6 days ago

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Comments: SPAM! Advertising your guidebooks on a free beta website without mentioning your vested interests? Nice one...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Heaven's Gate (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Boissal When: 6 days ago

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Comments: SPAM! After leaving Rakkup stickers on all the cars at the Gate you're coming HERE to promote YOUR e-guidebook? How about disclosing your financial interests in this, along with a disclaimer about the profound bias in your opinion...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : The Hook (5.8 R)
By: Boissal When: May 5, 2015

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Comments: The bolt is technically not part of the route which gives you an even better reason not to clip it and be as badass as Beckey/Kor...


Location: ID : City of Rocks : White Wall : Renegade (5.11a)
By: Boissal When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: Traversing the hollow undercling from the right adds some excitement to the start. The moves popping out of this hold are great!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : White Wall : Pale Face (5.11b PG13)
By: Boissal When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: The start isn't too bad even without pre-clipping the 1st bolt. It's one really thin move to gain an edge below the undercling which puts you withing reach of the clip. The crux is very sequential with pretty long reaches and bad feet.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Beef Jello : Beef Jello (5.10d)
By: Boissal When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: I'd say the 10d rating is definitely for the direct start, flaring off-fingers with no feet. Tape is a good idea on this one, it doesn't see much traffic and between the lichen and the sharp nature of the rock your mitts may get shredded.


Location: Brian in SLC : Little Cottonwood Pictures : Photo
By: Boissal When: Feb 28, 2015

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Comments: And it's conveniently sized so as to leave the name of the installer exposed. Fucking spray lord.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Westwind Buttress : Check the Technique (5.10-) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Feb 5, 2015

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Comments: HOW DID YOU GET THE ROPE UP THERE???!! IS THIS ZE DAWN WALL!?? IT'S NOT FREE CLIMBING IF YOU USE A ROPE!!
Seriously dude?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : Pocket Loverboy (5.11c)
By: Boissal When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: The mysterious feature is rather painful and can be avoided once the right feet have been found. Big moves on great rock, stick clipping the 1st bolt may be advisable as the very first bit it kind of friable.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Ramp Routes : Interstellar (5.10b)
By: Boissal When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: There seems to be a new bolt for a more direct start instead of clipping the bolt which is shared with the 5.9/7 to the right. I used a decent .5 getting there.


Location: UT : Grand Staircase : Big Water Area : Mollie Goes Dustin (5.6 A2) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: Nice Jungle-sized chunk!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Cabbage Patch : Fungus (V5)
By: Boissal When: Oct 24, 2014

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Comments: Much harder than SR which is all about stretching to a jug. Fungus is a relatively big move to a piss-poor hold. V5 feels right.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Gate Boulders : ... : The Round Room (V6)
By: Boissal When: Oct 16, 2014

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Comments: +1 on height-dependent difficulty. Watching tall people run laps on this like it's V3 is depressing when you can get within 2mm of the only hold on the problem but not snag it. V6 seems unlikely if you're 5' tall, there just isn't anything to grab...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Geezer Wall : Photo
By: Boissal When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: You are one inarticulate idiot aren't you... Here, use the word epitome one more time, you might fool someone into believing you have something to say.


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Upper Canopy : Donkey Kong Country (5.9+)
By: Boissal When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: The rain drove us away...


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Hayden Peak : Aces High Tower : Feelio's Lament (5.8 X)
By: Boissal When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: Sounds appealing! Good job not dying!


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Flying Raptor's Area : Photo
By: Boissal When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: I'm having a hard time picturing the location of this, can you see the end of the Upper Canopy on the right of the picture in the notch?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Gordon's Direct (5.11b R)
By: Boissal When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: Try it and report back. Skipping the bolt isn't too hard to do... Much harder than just talking about it though.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Equipment Overhang (5.11a)
By: Boissal When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: What exactly does "maybe the bolts were placed traditionally" mean? On lead by hand?? You do realize that when this line went up and was freed (early 70s) the "places for gear along the way" weren't exactly stellar placements for nuts and hexes? The bolt was necessary at the time. It may be somewhat superfluous now but you may want to consider the context in which it was placed and recognize its historical purpose... I guarantee the dudes who placed that hardware understood the mind game of mana... more >>


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Lower Jungle : Oranguterror (5.11d R) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: I think we may need photo finish on that one as it saw another potential FA that day! Not sure who got to it first?
Strong work regardless, it's a tough line. I'm glad she rated it 11d, I thought that was spot on but team sandbag thought it was much easier :)


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : The Planet of the Apes : To Hell With The Scarecrows (5.11b)
By: Boissal When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: Intimidating is right. Stock up on micro cams as nothing bigger than a green C3 will fit (you may be able to sneak in a red C3 in one spot). You'd better be comfortable climbing above nest of micro nuts for the upper section.
The sequence using the left blunt arete eluded me completely, I ended up on the right side of the crack milking tiny edges and eventually came back toward the bolt. Stout either way.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Pfeifferhorn : North Ridge (5.4 Easy Snow) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: Your caption is correct. From L to R you have Sunrise aka O'Sullivan and Dromedary which frame the entrance of Tanners (the major funnel). The next "peak" in the center probably has a name but I'm not aware of it. It sits at the head of Mill B at the top of the ridge which starts at the Sundial. Same story with the 2 or 3 sub-peak on the right, I'm sure they're named. The very last one on the right with the steep shaded face is Monte Cristo, or technically the true summit of Superior.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : Black Sails (5.12b)
By: Boissal When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Excellent route, techy and hard to read down low (11c ish) to a full rest into a bouldery section (scary clip with potential to tap the slab) followed by hero jug pulling to the top.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - South : Walk the Plank (5.11b)
By: Boissal When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Beware of the big flake right before getting to the roof section at the top. It's very detached and would be easy to pull off, especially when coming out of the thin section below and reaching for it as an obvious jug. Stick to the bottom part which feels more solid.


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