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Member Since: Aug 21, 2006
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 359
Total Points: 1,660
Last Year: 197
Last 30 Days: 3
134 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2529 | Routes 55 | Areas 3 | Photos 107 | Page Improvements | Comments 530 | Posts 503 | Stars 702 | Ratings 629
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: ID : City of Rocks : White Wall : Renegade (5.11a)
By: Boissal When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Traversing the hollow undercling from the right adds some excitement to the start. The moves popping out of this hold are great!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : White Wall : Pale Face (5.11b PG13)
By: Boissal When: 2 days ago

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Comments: The start isn't too bad even without pre-clipping the 1st bolt. It's one really thin move to gain an edge below the undercling which puts you withing reach of the clip. The crux is very sequential with pretty long reaches and bad feet.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Beef Jello : Beef Jello (5.10d)
By: Boissal When: 2 days ago

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Comments: I'd say the 10d rating is definitely for the direct start, flaring off-fingers with no feet. Tape is a good idea on this one, it doesn't see much traffic and between the lichen and the sharp nature of the rock your mitts may get shredded.


Location: Brian in SLC : Little Cottonwood Pictures : Photo
By: Boissal When: Feb 28, 2015

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Comments: And it's conveniently sized so as to leave the name of the installer exposed. Fucking spray lord.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Westwind Buttress : Check the Technique (5.10-) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Feb 5, 2015

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Comments: HOW DID YOU GET THE ROPE UP THERE???!! IS THIS ZE DAWN WALL!?? IT'S NOT FREE CLIMBING IF YOU USE A ROPE!!
Seriously dude?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : Pocket Loverboy (5.11c)
By: Boissal When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: The mysterious feature is rather painful and can be avoided once the right feet have been found. Big moves on great rock, stick clipping the 1st bolt may be advisable as the very first bit it kind of friable.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Ramp Routes : Interstellar (5.10b)
By: Boissal When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: There seems to be a new bolt for a more direct start instead of clipping the bolt which is shared with the 5.9/7 to the right. I used a decent .5 getting there.


Location: UT : Grand Staircase : Big Water Area : Mollie Goes Dustin (5.6 A2) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: Nice Jungle-sized chunk!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Cabbage Patch : Fungus (V5)
By: Boissal When: Oct 24, 2014

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Comments: Much harder than SR which is all about stretching to a jug. Fungus is a relatively big move to a piss-poor hold. V5 feels right.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Gate Boulders : ... : The Round Room (V6)
By: Boissal When: Oct 16, 2014

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Comments: +1 on height-dependent difficulty. Watching tall people run laps on this like it's V3 is depressing when you can get within 2mm of the only hold on the problem but not snag it. V6 seems unlikely if you're 5' tall, there just isn't anything to grab...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Geezer Wall : Photo
By: Boissal When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: You are one inarticulate idiot aren't you... Here, use the word epitome one more time, you might fool someone into believing you have something to say.


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Upper Canopy : Donkey Kong Country (5.9+)
By: Boissal When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: The rain drove us away...


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Hayden Peak : Aces High Tower : Feelio's Lament (5.8 X)
By: Boissal When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: Sounds appealing! Good job not dying!


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Flying Raptor's Area : Photo
By: Boissal When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: I'm having a hard time picturing the location of this, can you see the end of the Upper Canopy on the right of the picture in the notch?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Gordon's Direct (5.11b R)
By: Boissal When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: Try it and report back. Skipping the bolt isn't too hard to do... Much harder than just talking about it though.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Equipment Overhang (5.11a)
By: Boissal When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: What exactly does "maybe the bolts were placed traditionally" mean? On lead by hand?? You do realize that when this line went up and was freed (early 70s) the "places for gear along the way" weren't exactly stellar placements for nuts and hexes? The bolt was necessary at the time. It may be somewhat superfluous now but you may want to consider the context in which it was placed and recognize its historical purpose... I guarantee the dudes who placed that hardware understood the mind game of mana... more >>


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Lower Jungle : Oranguterror (5.11d R) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: I think we may need photo finish on that one as it saw another potential FA that day! Not sure who got to it first?
Strong work regardless, it's a tough line. I'm glad she rated it 11d, I thought that was spot on but team sandbag thought it was much easier :)


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : The Planet of the Apes : To Hell With The Scarecrows (5.11b)
By: Boissal When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: Intimidating is right. Stock up on micro cams as nothing bigger than a green C3 will fit (you may be able to sneak in a red C3 in one spot). You'd better be comfortable climbing above nest of micro nuts for the upper section.
The sequence using the left blunt arete eluded me completely, I ended up on the right side of the crack milking tiny edges and eventually came back toward the bolt. Stout either way.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Pfeifferhorn : North Ridge (5.4 Easy Snow) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: Your caption is correct. From L to R you have Sunrise aka O'Sullivan and Dromedary which frame the entrance of Tanners (the major funnel). The next "peak" in the center probably has a name but I'm not aware of it. It sits at the head of Mill B at the top of the ridge which starts at the Sundial. Same story with the 2 or 3 sub-peak on the right, I'm sure they're named. The very last one on the right with the steep shaded face is Monte Cristo, or technically the true summit of Superior.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : Black Sails (5.12b)
By: Boissal When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Excellent route, techy and hard to read down low (11c ish) to a full rest into a bouldery section (scary clip with potential to tap the slab) followed by hero jug pulling to the top.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - South : Walk the Plank (5.11b)
By: Boissal When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Beware of the big flake right before getting to the roof section at the top. It's very detached and would be easy to pull off, especially when coming out of the thin section below and reaching for it as an obvious jug. Stick to the bottom part which feels more solid.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Neff's Canyon : Chadbourne Crag : Piston Bully (5.12b/c)
By: Boissal When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: The flake sports a huge X now. It does feel alarmingly hollow but really isn't needed. The crimp rail at the base of it is nice and also sounds like shit, skipping it makes the finish a bit more challenging. It's hard not to stick on foot somewhere on the looseness to clip the chains.
It this thing comes off it won't kill your belayer who's conveniently tucked away in the cave. Your dog however...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra
By: Boissal When: Aug 6, 2014

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Comments: Wait, which restrictions have been put on climbing in Arches due to the BASE/slacklining community? Last time I checked the reinforcement of the anchor ban resulted directly from the actions of a climber and pre-dated the explosion of slacklining, arch swinging, and other related shenanigans.

The Fishers are a shared resource. It unfortunately means that base jumpers, slack liners, climber and gawkers alike get to run around doing whatever the hell they want. At some point mountain bikers will ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra
By: Boissal When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: What happens when you pull a full pitch worth of angles and spill your brains Jeremy? Is it any less likely than a base jumper dying? A4 nailing in mud is safe now? Hypocritical bullshit. At least you recognize that the impact of thousands of free ascents and subsequent raps off the summit may be as much a contributor as a few slack lines.

The Cobra was bound to fall off. Whether a user group accelerated the time-line is completely unmeasurable. Get off your high horses. Nature fucking happens... more >>


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : Bitch (5.12a)
By: Boissal When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: Actually I just checked the book and The Boiler is listed as aka Bitch so your info is correct. I'll post a topo picture next time I go...


Here's my attempt at reconciling your info with the latest James Garrett guidebook:

11c - Name unknown. This is the most up canyon route on the road side. In 2009, there was a sling on this route
--> This may be Reloaded 11a already posted here and/or a route JG has as 11d - Pee-wee's Playhouse I know there are two ways to do it a... more >>


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