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Member Since: Aug 21, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Boissal


Point Rank: # 367
Total Points: 1,466
Last Year: 101
Last 30 Days: 7
109 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Boissal been climbing?










Contributions


All (2247) | Routes (47) | Areas (3) | Photos (92) | Comments (491) | Posts (429) | Stars (627) | Ratings (558)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Mellow Gold (5.12a/b)
By: Boissal When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Hard and a bit out of character for the area with a couple sections of absolutely miserable feet (slab). I thought the crux was below the undercling section, a big deadpoint to a decent hold from a shitty crimp and bad feet. The moves are great the whole way, the line feels significantly harder than DOF or pitbulls...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon
By: Boissal When: Mar 20, 2014

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Comments: BCC has been outfitted with cell relays (?) last year, I have yet to find a crag where I can't InstaBook spray about how much of a choss slayer I am. LCC is more hit or miss for me, line of sight to the valley usually works.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Lord of the Slings (5.9+) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Mar 3, 2014

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Comments: No, why would you post a pic of your bro's best profile on a white background? You could achieve the same effect by pointing the camera at a cotton ball and claim you were in the gnarliest whiteout. This isn't Instagram, at least put a rock in there.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Nettle (5.11)
By: Boissal When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: The direct bolt line is much harder than heading right. Quarter pad crimps vs full pad jugs. Solid 11c... Good thing the crux is really short and spits you out on jugs.
Don't give in to the accepted idiotic practice of lowering from the quicklink on the last bolt. The last bit to the top may have been chossy for a few years after the route was put up but it's now clean and solid. Fire up the last bulge, pull the mantle and lower off the chains, standard draws will provide enough extension to pu... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Daisy (5.10)
By: Boissal When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: The extension is really good, steeper than the rest of the route with funky exposed moves and solid rock (even though it looks crumbly). Stopping halfway makes no sense when the top is safe, fun and the difficulty consistent.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Touchy Subject (5.11c)
By: Boissal When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: The last 20' of the variation are worthy: tricky pumpy moves on good rock and an exciting shuffle along the arete on seemingly questionable stuff. The new bolt (5' above and left of the pin) means that you can finish on the anchor for Daisy without having to take a big fall on an old knifeblade. It's also a bit further to the left which lets you tackle the upper bulge straight on as opposed to escaping right.
I'd say 11+ for a continuous pumpy line with great movement and no excuses for... more >>


Location: UT : Ibex : Bouldering : Warm Point : Photo
By: Boissal When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: The brush at Ibex is alive and well... One look at the ever-growing shrubs under the Red Monsters will confirm that.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Willow Canyon : Big Willow Cirque : Giggles (5.8)
By: Boissal When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: I hear Bushwack is a much better alternative...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower Two : From Trilobites to Lycra Ti... (5.11d)
By: Boissal When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: It's easy to get sucked to the left after you clip the first bolt and find yourself staring at the intimidating and seemingly blank bulge. If you go that way, expect some frustration and fear when the line of pockets you were following ends and you find yourself 15' to the left of the line having to traverse back on no holds.
Save yourself the heightened blood pressure and plow straight up the bulge on hidden pockets. If it looks desperate, it's because it is...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Ruins Crack (5.10+)
By: Boissal When: Dec 12, 2013

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Comments: And watch people throw fits 120' off the deck before downclimbing? It will be amusing at least...
If someone is oblivious to the ruins I doubt they'll take the time to look up and realize there are no anchors. Bolt a sign to the granary.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Ruins Crack (5.10+)
By: Boissal When: Dec 12, 2013

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Comments: All euros can read English... Put a plaque at the base.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Bouldering Area : Chaos Boulder : Photo
By: Boissal When: Dec 5, 2013

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Comments: Nah I'm pretty sure the non-spotter is muttering "spray"...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom (5.6)
By: Boissal When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: I think it is even more hilarious that so many people call it an OW, something that typically involves serious grunting and body-parts jamming. This thing is a slab which happens to have a wide trough and a corner next to it. Paste your ass on the right wall, your feet on the slab and walk up! Sure, you can drop a leg in there and molest the edge of the crack all you want. It might even feel more secure which is probably what most people want when they start burrowing. It's like liebacking the C... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Only Human Var. (5.9)
By: Boissal When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: As mentioned, go heavy on the long runners, especially if you protect in the back of the wide part (double length mandatory, consider back-cleaning) but also in the lieback section. If you don't, you'll be paddling up the slab wondering if your belayer has passed out and you're hauling his limp body up to the first piece. You might get away without the #4 as there are plenty of options. Not sure the #5 which I always haul up to the Flakes would fit.

Fun route, not as grovely as it f... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : El Segundo (5.11-)
By: Boissal When: Nov 10, 2013

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Comments: Cool variation, definitely worth doing if you've trudged all the way up there. The traverse moves are fairly stout and balancy with an unlikely crossover and crunchy feet. Once in the finger crack it's smooth sailing. If you do it wrong this crack totally deserves a fair amount of PG13 rating.
For variety I suggest finishing on El Tercero, a variation of the El Segundo variation which involves a one move leftward traverse of the upper tiny flake. Obviously it had never been done, I was the first... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : S-Direct (5.9+ R) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: Just saw this in the new layout 6 pics of the day thing. Had to Bump it.

Bump.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Final Link (5.9)
By: Boissal When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: That's probably Genuine Risk, 5.11c R


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Perhaps Not (5.11c)
By: Boissal When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: I'm still not 100% sure how to get into this one and the Ruckmans' description confuses me. Do you start up the Touch Up flake for a few moves (as in the picture posted on here, even clipping the pin) then run up edges to the bolt? Or do you keep climbing the Gordon's dihedral for a few more move past Touch Up then traverse back to the bolt line using decent edges? Both ways feel about the same difficulty-wise. There are lots of loose edges on both lines, beware of what you yard on before gettin... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Cliffs of Insanity : Psycho Tectonics (5.12a) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: I keep seeing a grenade where his belay device is clipped. So gangsta...
Young Cheech sighting on the right completes the classic picture.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Trinity Right (5.12a)
By: Boissal When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: Jeebus, for realz? There's no fixed gear left on the route now... I'm glad I'm not the one who blew that piece out, it's a long way down to the gear before the lieback. Did your buddy soil his breeches?
What gear goes in that mess of loose-looking flakes or where the nut used to be? I heard a #3 camalot does the trick and there's some bomber blue TCU/yellow C3 in the horizontal too but that leaves you with a good 20' between pieces.


Location: UT : Ibex : Bouldering : Brian's Boulder : 2. V1 (V1)
By: Boissal When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: Nobody claims you're out of line, Andrew appears to have suggested that 16 pics might have been a few too many, something I tend to agree with and have thought about in the past when you posted bundles of pics of each choss heap you climbed in Maple, AF, etc... I never bothered to comment because 1) mp.com pays for the storage space I don't, 2) you're obviously psyched, 3) somewhere in the list there might be a shot which is good or provides beta and 4) I've posted tons of pics that most people ... more >>


Location: UT : Ibex : Bouldering : Brian's Boulder : 2. V1 (V1)
By: Boissal When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: A great photographer might refrain from framing his shots so that the climber's feet are cropped and his shadow, shoes or half of his leg end up in the frame. He might also consider moving back a bit so that more of a third of the problem is visible and avoiding heinous buttshots.

I'm sure Mark is a great guy and photographer and you're great at defending your friends on the internet. You both make a very poor show of it on here though... Andrew was as polite as can be and doesn't have to be su... more >>


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Upper Jungle : Silverback (5.11-)
By: Boissal When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: I hear there's a red tag on a line at the mouth of the Lower Jungle so I'm claiming 100!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower One : Cause for Alarm (5.10b/c)
By: Boissal When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: And original at that...
It's not grade inflation, it's subjectivity and the Martinez way. At least his shit is consistently soft. How hard do you think this pitch would be in the Gunks? In Maple?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Serenity
By: Boissal When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: Solid work gentlemen! It's not everyday that you see 25 odd new routes pop up in AF. Can't wait to visit the crag and clean some of the choss off! I like the naming scheme too!


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