Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Aug 21, 2006
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Boissal


Point Rank: # 383
Total Points: 1,473
Last Year: 64
Last 30 Days: 4
118 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Boissal been climbing?










Contributions


All 2362 | Routes 47 | Areas 3 | Photos 92 | Page Improvments | Comments 498 | Posts 469 | Stars 658 | Ratings 595
Page 1 of 20.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mt. Van Cott : University Bouldering : Sprawl (V3)
By: Boissal When: 6 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: FA by you? I hope it was back in 1961 otherwise I think your claim may be invalid. I bouldered up there 10 years ago and climbed all over these sharp piles. By my count, and I admit it may be approximate, I grabbed the 371st ascent...
I believe the problem is actually called "Delusions of Novelty" and its neighbors "You Ain't First" and "Quit Existing in a Vacuum".

Fun choss, a bit sharp, reminiscent of the Reef. There's a lot of it by Black Mountain too if you're looking for not-first... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : The West Slabs : The West Slabs (5.5)
By: Boissal When: Jul 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Hard to know. I was there a month ago and stumbled on a bunch of them. A couple hangers are missing. Some glue ins look like they were twisted. I have no idea if there's a continuous line of anchors to the top.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Horns Of Satan (5.10+)
By: Boissal When: Jul 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Hiked up there this weekend to hop on Shadow of the Blade, found it occupied and decided to repeat Horns of Satan which had been my first route on the Castle years ago. I'm still undecided how it ranks compared to Shadow and Evil Eye but they definitely are the top 3 lines on the Castle.

I'm not buying the 10- rating, the start and the roof on P3 feel like legitimate 10c/10+ to me (and it wasn't the onsight). I've done a few easier 11a routes on limestone... but your mileage may vary. Back-cle... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Skinny Len Crimps (5.11a) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Jul 1, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: You only stray from the bolt line at the bottom, if you go right at this spot you're on the 10c route to the side. The move pictured is the crux proper and it's nowhere near 12a.


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla...
By: Boissal When: Jun 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Andesite.
The picture of the pillar in Slovakia looks a lot like a mossy Jungle. I'd say your assessment of the rock's nature is spot on.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Unknown (5.12a)
By: Boissal When: May 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Excellent line with a couple of cryptic cruxes separated by a full rest. I think it lands somewhere between Depth of Field and Mellow Gold in difficulty, solid 12a or maybe 12-.
One of the holds in the first crux is wiggling and might need to be glued in order to keep the sequence from going to 12hard. I found the upper bugle to be brick hard but there are tow ways to go at it. I imagine I went the wrong way.

FA is Steve Edwards & ?. Same for the 12d to the far left of the crag.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Touch Up (5.9+)
By: Boissal When: May 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Most people who get on this route are too pumped to thread a sling through the eye of the pin by the time they get to it... If the fixed sling is gone they'll throw a draw on there and as BH pointed out cross load the shit out of the biner. The fixed sling isn't there for the half-blind climber who manages to not notice the pin, it's there to prevent the flailing leader from exploding a biner and parts of himself.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Disco Duck (5.10a)
By: Boissal When: Apr 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Mexican crack has 1 move of 10a. What's your point?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Mellow Gold (5.12a/b)
By: Boissal When: Apr 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Hard and a bit out of character for the area with a couple sections of absolutely miserable feet (slab). I thought the crux was below the undercling section, a big deadpoint to a decent hold from a shitty crimp and bad feet. The moves are great the whole way, the line feels significantly harder than DOF or pitbulls...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon
By: Boissal When: Mar 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: BCC has been outfitted with cell relays (?) last year, I have yet to find a crag where I can't InstaBook spray about how much of a choss slayer I am. LCC is more hit or miss for me, line of sight to the valley usually works.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Lord of the Slings (5.9+) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Mar 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: No, why would you post a pic of your bro's best profile on a white background? You could achieve the same effect by pointing the camera at a cotton ball and claim you were in the gnarliest whiteout. This isn't Instagram, at least put a rock in there.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Nettle (5.11)
By: Boissal When: Feb 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The direct bolt line is much harder than heading right. Quarter pad crimps vs full pad jugs. Solid 11c... Good thing the crux is really short and spits you out on jugs.
Don't give in to the accepted idiotic practice of lowering from the quicklink on the last bolt. The last bit to the top may have been chossy for a few years after the route was put up but it's now clean and solid. Fire up the last bulge, pull the mantle and lower off the chains, standard draws will provide enough extension to pu... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Daisy (5.10)
By: Boissal When: Feb 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The extension is really good, steeper than the rest of the route with funky exposed moves and solid rock (even though it looks crumbly). It bumps the grade a bit, probably 11a. Stopping halfway makes no sense when the top is safe, fun and the difficulty consistent.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Touchy Subject (5.11c)
By: Boissal When: Feb 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A bit of clarification: the original line heads up and right from the intermediate anchor, aiming for a pin hidden inside a large mouth-shaped pocket then into a crack. It finishes at a 2 bolt anchor shared with Nettle. Probably 11+ including the finish, maybe 11c to the intermediate anchor.
The variation avoids the pin and shoots up and left along the arete , clipping a new bolt and sharing the anchors of the Daisy extension. The moves are pumpy and the rock is solid. The FA apparently went lef... more >>


Location: UT : Ibex : Bouldering : Warm Point : Photo
By: Boissal When: Feb 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The brush at Ibex is alive and well... One look at the ever-growing shrubs under the Red Monsters will confirm that.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Willow Canyon : Big Willow Cirque : Giggles (5.8)
By: Boissal When: Jan 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I hear Bushwack is a much better alternative...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower Two : From Trilobites to Lycra Ti... (5.11d)
By: Boissal When: Dec 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: It's easy to get sucked to the left after you clip the first bolt and find yourself staring at the intimidating and seemingly blank bulge. If you go that way, expect some frustration and fear when the line of pockets you were following ends and you find yourself 15' to the left of the line having to traverse back on no holds.
Save yourself the heightened blood pressure and plow straight up the bulge on hidden pockets. If it looks desperate, it's because it is...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Ruins Crack (5.10+)
By: Boissal When: Dec 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: And watch people throw fits 120' off the deck before downclimbing? It will be amusing at least...
If someone is oblivious to the ruins I doubt they'll take the time to look up and realize there are no anchors. Bolt a sign to the granary.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Ruins Crack (5.10+)
By: Boissal When: Dec 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: All euros can read English... Put a plaque at the base.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Bouldering Area : Chaos Boulder : Photo
By: Boissal When: Dec 5, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Nah I'm pretty sure the non-spotter is muttering "spray"...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom (5.6)
By: Boissal When: Nov 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I think it is even more hilarious that so many people call it an OW, something that typically involves serious grunting and body-parts jamming. This thing is a slab which happens to have a wide trough and a corner next to it. Paste your ass on the right wall, your feet on the slab and walk up! Sure, you can drop a leg in there and molest the edge of the crack all you want. It might even feel more secure which is probably what most people want when they start burrowing. It's like liebacking the C... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Only Human Var. (5.9)
By: Boissal When: Nov 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: As mentioned, go heavy on the long runners, especially if you protect in the back of the wide part (double length mandatory, consider back-cleaning) but also in the lieback section. If you don't, you'll be paddling up the slab wondering if your belayer has passed out and you're hauling his limp body up to the first piece. You might get away without the #4 as there are plenty of options. Not sure the #5 which I always haul up to the Flakes would fit.

Fun route, not as grovely as it f... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : El Segundo (5.11-)
By: Boissal When: Nov 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Cool variation, definitely worth doing if you've trudged all the way up there. The traverse moves are fairly stout and balancy with an unlikely crossover and crunchy feet. Once in the finger crack it's smooth sailing. If you do it wrong this crack totally deserves a fair amount of PG13 rating.
For variety I suggest finishing on El Tercero, a variation of the El Segundo variation which involves a one move leftward traverse of the upper tiny flake. Obviously it had never been done, I was the first... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : S-Direct (5.9+ R) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Nov 6, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Just saw this in the new layout 6 pics of the day thing. Had to Bump it.

Bump.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Final Link (5.9)
By: Boissal When: Nov 2, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: That's probably Genuine Risk, 5.11c R


Page 1 of 20.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>