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Member Since: Aug 21, 2006
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 357
Total Points: 1,593
Last Year: 181
Last 30 Days: 120
119 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 2415 | Routes 54 | Areas 3 | Photos 99 | Page Improvments | Comments 513 | Posts 472 | Stars 672 | Ratings 602
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Pfeifferhorn : North Ridge (5.4 Easy Snow) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: Your caption is correct. From L to R you have Sunrise aka O'Sullivan and Dromedary which frame the entrance of Tanners (the major funnel). The next "peak" in the center probably has a name but I'm not aware of it. It sits at the head of Mill B at the top of the ridge which starts at the Sundial. Same story with the 2 or 3 sub-peak on the right, I'm sure they're named. The very last one on the right with the steep shaded face is Monte Cristo, or technically the true summit of Superior.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : Black Sails (5.12b)
By: Boissal When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Excellent route, techy and hard to read down low (11c ish) to a full rest into a bouldery section (scary clip with potential to tap the slab) followed by hero jug pulling to the top.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - South : Walk the Plank (5.11b)
By: Boissal When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Beware of the big flake right before getting to the roof section at the top. It's very detached and would be easy to pull off, especially when coming out of the thin section below and reaching for it as an obvious jug. Stick to the bottom part which feels more solid.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Neff's Canyon : Chadbourne Crag : Piston Bully (5.12b/c)
By: Boissal When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: The flake sports a huge X now. It does feel alarmingly hollow but really isn't needed. The crimp rail at the base of it is nice and also sounds like shit, skipping it makes the finish a bit more challenging. It's hard not to stick on foot somewhere on the looseness to clip the chains.
It this thing comes off it won't kill your belayer who's conveniently tucked away in the cave. Your dog however...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra
By: Boissal When: Aug 6, 2014

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Comments: Wait, which restrictions have been put on climbing in Arches due to the BASE/slacklining community? Last time I checked the reinforcement of the anchor ban resulted directly from the actions of a climber and pre-dated the explosion of slacklining, arch swinging, and other related shenanigans.

The Fishers are a shared resource. It unfortunately means that base jumpers, slack liners, climber and gawkers alike get to run around doing whatever the hell they want. At some point mountain bikers will ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra
By: Boissal When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: What happens when you pull a full pitch worth of angles and spill your brains Jeremy? Is it any less likely than a base jumper dying? A4 nailing in mud is safe now? Hypocritical bullshit. At least you recognize that the impact of thousands of free ascents and subsequent raps off the summit may be as much a contributor as a few slack lines.

The Cobra was bound to fall off. Whether a user group accelerated the time-line is completely unmeasurable. Get off your high horses. Nature fucking happens... more >>


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : Bitch (5.12a)
By: Boissal When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: Actually I just checked the book and The Boiler is listed as aka Bitch so your info is correct. I'll post a topo picture next time I go...


Here's my attempt at reconciling your info with the latest James Garrett guidebook:

11c - Name unknown. This is the most up canyon route on the road side. In 2009, there was a sling on this route
--> This may be Reloaded 11a already posted here and/or a route JG has as 11d - Pee-wee's Playhouse I know there are two ways to do it a... more >>


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Pangaea : Your Substrate Makes My Lav... (5.9) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: I'll bring you some dogbones next time I come down!


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : Bitch (5.12a)
By: Boissal When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: The description makes it sound suspiciously like The Boiler (per James Garret's latest guidebook). Or is this between the Boiler and Black Sails?
The Boiler climbs a right trending dihedral then rolls onto a "slab" with difficult finger slot moves. Burly for 12a, I think the crux is solid at the grade and it comes after a fairly relentless jaunt up the dihedral. I replaced a couple dogbones which were looking alarmingly crisp.


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Pangaea : Plate Tectonics (5.11-)
By: Boissal When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: Actually it didn't go ground up, but not for lack of trying! I just couldn't pull the roof, too many large detached blocks and too many questionable micro stoppers in a row. The size of the stuff I yanked out of the roof and lower dihedral still freaks me out. The downclimb and traverse to Lichen Soup is forever banned from my memory. As usual though, each loose block claimed by gravity yields a hand hold and a solid placement. No more nests of mini nuts in bad rock!


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Lower Jungle : Oranguterror (5.11d R)
By: Boissal When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: Use long runners on the last 2 bolts of the 1st pitch (6 and 7 I believe) and go for the linkup! The traverse is a bit intimidating but the bolting is super safe. Expect to clip at your waist as the best holds are pretty high up. Do your best to catch a rest after the rightward shuffle as the crux requires some hard pulling and very sequential climbing not suitable for pumped forearms (read: this still doesn't have a clean FA).

We cleaned a lot of blocks of the right arete and sent down a massi... more >>


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : The Dark Continent Area : Man-Chimpster United (5.11+)
By: Boissal When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: Reasonably hard on TR, this looked like a serious proposition on gear. The crack never opens up enough for finger locks but looks like it would gobble small nuts (ha!). Proud send by Roy!


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : The Dark Continent Area : Assegai (5.11b)
By: Boissal When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: Another funky Jungle gem, this one looks like it's never been climbed until you notice a few scrubbed moss-free edges. The climbing is consistently engaging and technical with a few unlikely crossover moves and the potential for hilarious barn-door falls. Excellent!


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : The Dark Continent Area : Jabu and The Lion. (5.11b/c)
By: Boissal When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: Spectacular arete climbing with way more exposure than the height of the route warrants! You might get frustrated at the lichen which re-invaded the crux sloping hold. Give this one a little wire-brush love on the way down.


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : The Dark Continent Area : Rhodesian Ridgeback (5.11+)
By: Boissal When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: As Zac stated, the crux is very beta intensive. I also found it to be brick hard with a big pull off the 2 smallest holds in the Jungle. Growing a few inches and shedding a dozen pounds would have helped...
I might have been way off my game on this line but it felt like 11d++. The art of sandbagging is alive and well in Suggettville!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mt. Van Cott : University Bouldering : Sprawl (V3)
By: Boissal When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: FA by you? I hope it was back in 1961 otherwise I think your claim may be invalid. I bouldered up there 10 years ago and climbed all over these sharp piles. By my count, and I admit it may be approximate, I grabbed the 371st ascent...
I believe the problem is actually called "Delusions of Novelty" and its neighbors "You Ain't First" and "Quit Existing in a Vacuum".

Fun choss, a bit sharp, reminiscent of the Reef. There's a lot of it by Black Mountain too if you're looking for not-first... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : The West Slabs : The West Slabs (5.5)
By: Boissal When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: Hard to know. I was there a month ago and stumbled on a bunch of them. A couple hangers are missing. Some glue ins look like they were twisted. I have no idea if there's a continuous line of anchors to the top.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Horns Of Satan (5.10+)
By: Boissal When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: Hiked up there this weekend to hop on Shadow of the Blade, found it occupied and decided to repeat Horns of Satan which had been my first route on the Castle years ago. I'm still undecided how it ranks compared to Shadow and Evil Eye but they definitely are the top 3 lines on the Castle.

I'm not buying the 10- rating, the start and the roof on P3 feel like legitimate 10c/10+ to me (and it wasn't the onsight). I've done a few easier 11a routes on limestone... but your mileage may vary. Back-cle... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Skinny Len Crimps (5.11a) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: You only stray from the bolt line at the bottom, if you go right at this spot you're on the 10c route to the side. The move pictured is the crux proper and it's nowhere near 12a.


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla...
By: Boissal When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: Andesite.
The picture of the pillar in Slovakia looks a lot like a mossy Jungle. I'd say your assessment of the rock's nature is spot on.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Unknown (5.12a)
By: Boissal When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: Excellent line with a couple of cryptic cruxes separated by a full rest. I think it lands somewhere between Depth of Field and Mellow Gold in difficulty, solid 12a or maybe 12-.
One of the holds in the first crux is wiggling and might need to be glued in order to keep the sequence from going to 12hard. I found the upper bugle to be brick hard but there are tow ways to go at it. I imagine I went the wrong way.

FA is Steve Edwards & ?. Same for the 12d to the far left of the crag.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Touch Up (5.9+)
By: Boissal When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: Most people who get on this route are too pumped to thread a sling through the eye of the pin by the time they get to it... If the fixed sling is gone they'll throw a draw on there and as BH pointed out cross load the shit out of the biner. The fixed sling isn't there for the half-blind climber who manages to not notice the pin, it's there to prevent the flailing leader from exploding a biner and parts of himself.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Disco Duck (5.10a)
By: Boissal When: Apr 25, 2014

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Comments: Mexican crack has 1 move of 10a. What's your point?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Mellow Gold (5.12a/b)
By: Boissal When: Apr 15, 2014

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Comments: Hard and a bit out of character for the area with a couple sections of absolutely miserable feet (slab). I thought the crux was below the undercling section, a big deadpoint to a decent hold from a shitty crimp and bad feet. The moves are great the whole way, the line feels significantly harder than DOF or pitbulls...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon
By: Boissal When: Mar 20, 2014

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Comments: BCC has been outfitted with cell relays (?) last year, I have yet to find a crag where I can't InstaBook spray about how much of a choss slayer I am. LCC is more hit or miss for me, line of sight to the valley usually works.


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