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Member Since: Aug 21, 2006
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 365
Total Points: 1,550
Last Year: 139
Last 30 Days: 80
118 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2393 | Routes 50 | Areas 3 | Photos 100 | Page Improvments | Comments 505 | Posts 469 | Stars 666 | Ratings 600
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Zigzag's line. Wonder how they came up with the name...

Zigzag's line. Wonder how they came up with the name...

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Zigzag (5.10d PG13)

Oct 1, 2008

Zigzag area with lines. <br />The first pitch (only the upper part is visible in green) is common to the three routes. <br />Zigzag is the green line (the line is hidden by the roof @ the dotted section). <br />Wings Of Perception is the blue line, can be linked in 1 pitch from the belay. <br />Assumption Of Risk is the red line

Zigzag area with lines. The first pitch (only the upper part is visible in green) is common to the three routes. Zigzag is the green line (the line is hidden by the roof @ the dotted section). Wings O

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Lizard Head Wall

Oct 1, 2008

Sam cruising up the first pitch of Zigzag, trying to figure out where the piton went at the first roof

Sam cruising up the first pitch of Zigzag, trying to figure out where the piton went at the first roof

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Zigzag (5.10d PG13)

Oct 1, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : Bitch (5.12a)
By: Boissal When: 2 days ago

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Comments: The description makes it sound suspiciously like The Boiler (per James Garret's latest guidebook). Or is this between the Boiler and Black Sails?
The Boiler climbs a right trending dihedral then rolls onto a "slab" with difficult finger slot moves, super pumpy for 12a.


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Pangea : Plate Tectonics (5.11-)
By: Boissal When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Actually it didn't go ground up, but not for lack of trying! I just couldn't pull the roof, too many large detached blocks and too many questionable micro stoppers in a row. The size of the stuff I yanked out of the roof and lower dihedral still freaks me out. The downclimb and traverse to Lichen Soup is forever banned from my memory. As usual though, each loose block claimed by gravity yields a hand hold and a solid placement. No more nests of mini nuts in bad rock!


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Lower Jungle : Oranguterror (5.11d R)
By: Boissal When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Use long runners on the last 2 bolts of the 1st pitch (6 and 7 I believe) and go for the linkup! The traverse is a bit intimidating but the bolting is super safe. Expect to clip at your waist as the best holds are pretty high up. Do your best to catch a rest after the rightward shuffle as the crux requires some hard pulling and very sequential climbing not suitable for pumped forearms (read: this still doesn't have a clean FA).

We cleaned a lot of blocks of the right arete and sent down a massi... more >>


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : The Dark Continent Area : Man-Chimpster United (5.11+)
By: Boissal When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Reasonably hard on TR, this looked like a serious proposition on gear. The crack never opens up enough for finger locks but looks like it would gobble small nuts (ha!). Proud send by Roy!


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : The Dark Continent Area : Assegai (5.11b)
By: Boissal When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Another funky Jungle gem, this one looks like it's never been climbed until you notice a few scrubbed moss-free edges. The climbing is consistently engaging and technical with a few unlikely crossover moves and the potential for hilarious barn-door falls. Excellent!


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : The Dark Continent Area : Jabu and The Lion. (5.11b/c)
By: Boissal When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Spectacular arete climbing with way more exposure than the height of the route warrants! You might get frustrated at the lichen which re-invaded the crux sloping hold. Give this one a little wire-brush love on the way down.


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : The Dark Continent Area : Rhodesian Ridgeback (5.11+)
By: Boissal When: 4 days ago

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Comments: As Zac stated, the crux is very beta intensive. I also found it to be brick hard with a big pull off the 2 smallest holds in the Jungle. Growing a few inches and shedding a dozen pounds would have helped...
I might have been way off my game on this line but it felt like 11d++. The art of sandbagging is alive and well in Suggettville!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mt. Van Cott : University Bouldering : Sprawl (V3)
By: Boissal When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: FA by you? I hope it was back in 1961 otherwise I think your claim may be invalid. I bouldered up there 10 years ago and climbed all over these sharp piles. By my count, and I admit it may be approximate, I grabbed the 371st ascent...
I believe the problem is actually called "Delusions of Novelty" and its neighbors "You Ain't First" and "Quit Existing in a Vacuum".

Fun choss, a bit sharp, reminiscent of the Reef. There's a lot of it by Black Mountain too if you're looking for not-first... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : The West Slabs : The West Slabs (5.5)
By: Boissal When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: Hard to know. I was there a month ago and stumbled on a bunch of them. A couple hangers are missing. Some glue ins look like they were twisted. I have no idea if there's a continuous line of anchors to the top.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Horns Of Satan (5.10+)
By: Boissal When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: Hiked up there this weekend to hop on Shadow of the Blade, found it occupied and decided to repeat Horns of Satan which had been my first route on the Castle years ago. I'm still undecided how it ranks compared to Shadow and Evil Eye but they definitely are the top 3 lines on the Castle.

I'm not buying the 10- rating, the start and the roof on P3 feel like legitimate 10c/10+ to me (and it wasn't the onsight). I've done a few easier 11a routes on limestone... but your mileage may vary. Back-cle... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Skinny Len Crimps (5.11a) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: You only stray from the bolt line at the bottom, if you go right at this spot you're on the 10c route to the side. The move pictured is the crux proper and it's nowhere near 12a.


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla...
By: Boissal When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: Andesite.
The picture of the pillar in Slovakia looks a lot like a mossy Jungle. I'd say your assessment of the rock's nature is spot on.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Unknown (5.12a)
By: Boissal When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: Excellent line with a couple of cryptic cruxes separated by a full rest. I think it lands somewhere between Depth of Field and Mellow Gold in difficulty, solid 12a or maybe 12-.
One of the holds in the first crux is wiggling and might need to be glued in order to keep the sequence from going to 12hard. I found the upper bugle to be brick hard but there are tow ways to go at it. I imagine I went the wrong way.

FA is Steve Edwards & ?. Same for the 12d to the far left of the crag.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Touch Up (5.9+)
By: Boissal When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: Most people who get on this route are too pumped to thread a sling through the eye of the pin by the time they get to it... If the fixed sling is gone they'll throw a draw on there and as BH pointed out cross load the shit out of the biner. The fixed sling isn't there for the half-blind climber who manages to not notice the pin, it's there to prevent the flailing leader from exploding a biner and parts of himself.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Disco Duck (5.10a)
By: Boissal When: Apr 25, 2014

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Comments: Mexican crack has 1 move of 10a. What's your point?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Mellow Gold (5.12a/b)
By: Boissal When: Apr 15, 2014

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Comments: Hard and a bit out of character for the area with a couple sections of absolutely miserable feet (slab). I thought the crux was below the undercling section, a big deadpoint to a decent hold from a shitty crimp and bad feet. The moves are great the whole way, the line feels significantly harder than DOF or pitbulls...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon
By: Boissal When: Mar 20, 2014

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Comments: BCC has been outfitted with cell relays (?) last year, I have yet to find a crag where I can't InstaBook spray about how much of a choss slayer I am. LCC is more hit or miss for me, line of sight to the valley usually works.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Lord of the Slings (5.9+) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Mar 3, 2014

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Comments: No, why would you post a pic of your bro's best profile on a white background? You could achieve the same effect by pointing the camera at a cotton ball and claim you were in the gnarliest whiteout. This isn't Instagram, at least put a rock in there.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Nettle (5.11)
By: Boissal When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: The direct bolt line is much harder than heading right. Quarter pad crimps vs full pad jugs. Solid 11c... Good thing the crux is really short and spits you out on jugs.
Don't give in to the accepted idiotic practice of lowering from the quicklink on the last bolt. The last bit to the top may have been chossy for a few years after the route was put up but it's now clean and solid. Fire up the last bulge, pull the mantle and lower off the chains, standard draws will provide enough extension to pu... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Daisy (5.10)
By: Boissal When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: The extension is really good, steeper than the rest of the route with funky exposed moves and solid rock (even though it looks crumbly). It bumps the grade a bit, probably 11a. Stopping halfway makes no sense when the top is safe, fun and the difficulty consistent.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Touchy Subject (5.11c)
By: Boissal When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: A bit of clarification: the original line heads up and right from the intermediate anchor, aiming for a pin hidden inside a large mouth-shaped pocket then into a crack. It finishes at a 2 bolt anchor shared with Nettle. Probably 11+ including the finish, maybe 11c to the intermediate anchor.
The variation avoids the pin and shoots up and left along the arete , clipping a new bolt and sharing the anchors of the Daisy extension. The moves are pumpy and the rock is solid. The FA apparently went lef... more >>


Location: UT : Ibex : Bouldering : Warm Point : Photo
By: Boissal When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: The brush at Ibex is alive and well... One look at the ever-growing shrubs under the Red Monsters will confirm that.


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