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Member Since: Aug 21, 2006
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 349
Total Points: 1,632
Last Year: 195
Last 30 Days: 39
121 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Boissal been climbing?










Contributions


All 2434 | Routes 55 | Areas 3 | Photos 104 | Page Improvements | Comments 517 | Posts 474 | Stars 676 | Ratings 605
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
The imposing dihedral of Gargoyle

The imposing dihedral of Gargoyle

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Gargoyle (5.11c)

Nov 24, 2008

The views from anywhere on the buttress are amazing. Here from the top of P3 on the Fin Arete, looking at the Thumb.

The views from anywhere on the buttress are amazing. Here from the top of P3 on the Fin Arete, looking at the Thumb.

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Fin

Nov 24, 2008

The inexorable* intensive care slab from the top of the Fin.  <br /> <br /><em>*wording borrowed from the the Ruckman's guidebook</em>

The inexorable* intensive care slab from the top of the Fin. *wording borrowed from the the Ruckman's guidebook

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Intensive Care Slab

Nov 24, 2008

The prow on P3, just before joining the Fin Arete. Steeeeeep and runout due to the missing chickenhead.

The prow on P3, just before joining the Fin Arete. Steeeeeep and runout due to the missing chickenhead.

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Dark Horse (5.11 R)

Nov 24, 2008

From the top of P1. Avoid the angle/rope drag at the 5th bolt by using a longer runner

From the top of P1. Avoid the angle/rope drag at the 5th bolt by using a longer runner

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Fin Arete (5.10b R)

Nov 24, 2008

The bolted traverse to the arete. Good holds but intimidating.

The bolted traverse to the arete. Good holds but intimidating.

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : To Air is Human (5.10d)

Nov 3, 2008

Checking-out the upper section, yes you're going to be pulling on that corn flake!

Checking-out the upper section, yes you're going to be pulling on that corn flake!

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Flakes (5.10b)

Nov 3, 2008

The Flakes.  <br />The route goes right at the first V and is a perfect handcrack up to the second V. <br />After that undercling lieback to the wide section, then more of the same to the top.

The Flakes. The route goes right at the first V and is a perfect handcrack up to the second V. After that undercling lieback to the wide section, then more of the same to the top.

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Flakes (5.10b)

Nov 3, 2008

Sam on his way to the groove on Tingey's Direct

Sam on his way to the groove on Tingey's Direct

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Tingey's Direct (5.7+)

Nov 3, 2008

Zigzag's line. Wonder how they came up with the name...

Zigzag's line. Wonder how they came up with the name...

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Zigzag (5.10d PG13)

Oct 1, 2008

Zigzag area with lines. <br />The first pitch (only the upper part is visible in green) is common to the three routes. <br />Zigzag is the green line (the line is hidden by the roof @ the dotted section). <br />Wings Of Perception is the blue line, can be linked in 1 pitch from the belay. <br />Assumption Of Risk is the red line

Zigzag area with lines. The first pitch (only the upper part is visible in green) is common to the three routes. Zigzag is the green line (the line is hidden by the roof @ the dotted section). Wings O

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Lizard Head Wall

Oct 1, 2008

Sam cruising up the first pitch of Zigzag, trying to figure out where the piton went at the first roof

Sam cruising up the first pitch of Zigzag, trying to figure out where the piton went at the first roof

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Zigzag (5.10d PG13)

Oct 1, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Gordon's Direct (5.11b R)
By: Boissal When: 1 day ago

view comment >>
Comments: Try it and report back. Skipping the bolt isn't too hard to do... Much harder than just talking about it though.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Equipment Overhang (5.11a)
By: Boissal When: 1 day ago

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Comments: What exactly does "maybe the bolts were placed traditionally" mean? On lead by hand?? You do realize that when this line went up and was freed (early 70s) the "places for gear along the way" weren't exactly stellar placements for nuts and hexes? The bolt was necessary at the time. It may be somewhat superfluous now but you may want to consider the context in which it was placed and recognize its historical purpose... I guarantee the dudes who placed that hardware understood the mind game of mana... more >>


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Lower Jungle : Oranguterror (5.11d R) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Sep 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I think we may need photo finish on that one as it saw another potential FA that day! Not sure who got to it first?
Strong work regardless, it's a tough line. I'm glad she rated it 11d, I thought that was spot on but team sandbag thought it was much easier :)


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : The Planet of the Apes : To Hell With The Scarecrows (5.11b)
By: Boissal When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: Intimidating is right. Stock up on micro cams as nothing bigger than a green C3 will fit (you may be able to sneak in a red C3 in one spot). You'd better be comfortable climbing above nest of micro nuts for the upper section.
The sequence using the left blunt arete eluded me completely, I ended up on the right side of the crack milking tiny edges and eventually came back toward the bolt. Stout either way.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Pfeifferhorn : North Ridge (5.4 Easy Snow) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: Your caption is correct. From L to R you have Sunrise aka O'Sullivan and Dromedary which frame the entrance of Tanners (the major funnel). The next "peak" in the center probably has a name but I'm not aware of it. It sits at the head of Mill B at the top of the ridge which starts at the Sundial. Same story with the 2 or 3 sub-peak on the right, I'm sure they're named. The very last one on the right with the steep shaded face is Monte Cristo, or technically the true summit of Superior.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : Black Sails (5.12b)
By: Boissal When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Excellent route, techy and hard to read down low (11c ish) to a full rest into a bouldery section (scary clip with potential to tap the slab) followed by hero jug pulling to the top.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - South : Walk the Plank (5.11b)
By: Boissal When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Beware of the big flake right before getting to the roof section at the top. It's very detached and would be easy to pull off, especially when coming out of the thin section below and reaching for it as an obvious jug. Stick to the bottom part which feels more solid.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Neff's Canyon : Chadbourne Crag : Piston Bully (5.12b/c)
By: Boissal When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: The flake sports a huge X now. It does feel alarmingly hollow but really isn't needed. The crimp rail at the base of it is nice and also sounds like shit, skipping it makes the finish a bit more challenging. It's hard not to stick on foot somewhere on the looseness to clip the chains.
It this thing comes off it won't kill your belayer who's conveniently tucked away in the cave. Your dog however...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra
By: Boissal When: Aug 6, 2014

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Comments: Wait, which restrictions have been put on climbing in Arches due to the BASE/slacklining community? Last time I checked the reinforcement of the anchor ban resulted directly from the actions of a climber and pre-dated the explosion of slacklining, arch swinging, and other related shenanigans.

The Fishers are a shared resource. It unfortunately means that base jumpers, slack liners, climber and gawkers alike get to run around doing whatever the hell they want. At some point mountain bikers will ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra
By: Boissal When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: What happens when you pull a full pitch worth of angles and spill your brains Jeremy? Is it any less likely than a base jumper dying? A4 nailing in mud is safe now? Hypocritical bullshit. At least you recognize that the impact of thousands of free ascents and subsequent raps off the summit may be as much a contributor as a few slack lines.

The Cobra was bound to fall off. Whether a user group accelerated the time-line is completely unmeasurable. Get off your high horses. Nature fucking happens... more >>


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : Bitch (5.12a)
By: Boissal When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: Actually I just checked the book and The Boiler is listed as aka Bitch so your info is correct. I'll post a topo picture next time I go...


Here's my attempt at reconciling your info with the latest James Garrett guidebook:

11c - Name unknown. This is the most up canyon route on the road side. In 2009, there was a sling on this route
--> This may be Reloaded 11a already posted here and/or a route JG has as 11d - Pee-wee's Playhouse I know there are two ways to do it a... more >>


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Pangaea : Your Substrate Makes My Lav... (5.9) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Aug 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I'll bring you some dogbones next time I come down!


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : Bitch (5.12a)
By: Boissal When: Jul 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The description makes it sound suspiciously like The Boiler (per James Garret's latest guidebook). Or is this between the Boiler and Black Sails?
The Boiler climbs a right trending dihedral then rolls onto a "slab" with difficult finger slot moves. Burly for 12a, I think the crux is solid at the grade and it comes after a fairly relentless jaunt up the dihedral. I replaced a couple dogbones which were looking alarmingly crisp.


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