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Member Since: Aug 21, 2006
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Boissal


Point Rank: # 368
Total Points: 1,466
Last Year: 100
Last 30 Days: 6
109 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Boissal been climbing?










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All (2250) | Routes (47) | Areas (3) | Photos (92) | Comments (491) | Posts (432) | Stars (627) | Ratings (558)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower Two : From Trilobites to Lycra Ti... (5.11d)
By: Boissal When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: It's easy to get sucked to the left after you clip the first bolt and find yourself staring at the intimidating and seemingly blank bulge. If you go that way, expect some frustration and fear when the line of pockets you were following ends and you find yourself 15' to the left of the line having to traverse back on no holds.
Save yourself the heightened blood pressure and plow straight up the bulge on hidden pockets. If it looks desperate, it's because it is...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Ruins Crack (5.10+)
By: Boissal When: Dec 12, 2013

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Comments: And watch people throw fits 120' off the deck before downclimbing? It will be amusing at least...
If someone is oblivious to the ruins I doubt they'll take the time to look up and realize there are no anchors. Bolt a sign to the granary.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Ruins Crack (5.10+)
By: Boissal When: Dec 12, 2013

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Comments: All euros can read English... Put a plaque at the base.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Bouldering Area : Chaos Boulder : Photo
By: Boissal When: Dec 5, 2013

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Comments: Nah I'm pretty sure the non-spotter is muttering "spray"...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom (5.6)
By: Boissal When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: I think it is even more hilarious that so many people call it an OW, something that typically involves serious grunting and body-parts jamming. This thing is a slab which happens to have a wide trough and a corner next to it. Paste your ass on the right wall, your feet on the slab and walk up! Sure, you can drop a leg in there and molest the edge of the crack all you want. It might even feel more secure which is probably what most people want when they start burrowing. It's like liebacking the C... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Only Human Var. (5.9)
By: Boissal When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: As mentioned, go heavy on the long runners, especially if you protect in the back of the wide part (double length mandatory, consider back-cleaning) but also in the lieback section. If you don't, you'll be paddling up the slab wondering if your belayer has passed out and you're hauling his limp body up to the first piece. You might get away without the #4 as there are plenty of options. Not sure the #5 which I always haul up to the Flakes would fit.

Fun route, not as grovely as it f... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : El Segundo (5.11-)
By: Boissal When: Nov 10, 2013

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Comments: Cool variation, definitely worth doing if you've trudged all the way up there. The traverse moves are fairly stout and balancy with an unlikely crossover and crunchy feet. Once in the finger crack it's smooth sailing. If you do it wrong this crack totally deserves a fair amount of PG13 rating.
For variety I suggest finishing on El Tercero, a variation of the El Segundo variation which involves a one move leftward traverse of the upper tiny flake. Obviously it had never been done, I was the first... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : S-Direct (5.9+ R) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: Just saw this in the new layout 6 pics of the day thing. Had to Bump it.

Bump.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Final Link (5.9)
By: Boissal When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: That's probably Genuine Risk, 5.11c R


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Perhaps Not (5.11c)
By: Boissal When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: I'm still not 100% sure how to get into this one and the Ruckmans' description confuses me. Do you start up the Touch Up flake for a few moves (as in the picture posted on here, even clipping the pin) then run up edges to the bolt? Or do you keep climbing the Gordon's dihedral for a few more move past Touch Up then traverse back to the bolt line using decent edges? Both ways feel about the same difficulty-wise. There are lots of loose edges on both lines, beware of what you yard on before gettin... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Cliffs of Insanity : Psycho Tectonics (5.12a) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: I keep seeing a grenade where his belay device is clipped. So gangsta...
Young Cheech sighting on the right completes the classic picture.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Trinity Right (5.12a)
By: Boissal When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: Jeebus, for realz? There's no fixed gear left on the route now... I'm glad I'm not the one who blew that piece out, it's a long way down to the gear before the lieback. Did your buddy soil his breeches?
What gear goes in that mess of loose-looking flakes or where the nut used to be? I heard a #3 camalot does the trick and there's some bomber blue TCU/yellow C3 in the horizontal too but that leaves you with a good 20' between pieces.


Location: UT : Ibex : Bouldering : Brian's Boulder : 2. V1 (V1)
By: Boissal When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: Nobody claims you're out of line, Andrew appears to have suggested that 16 pics might have been a few too many, something I tend to agree with and have thought about in the past when you posted bundles of pics of each choss heap you climbed in Maple, AF, etc... I never bothered to comment because 1) mp.com pays for the storage space I don't, 2) you're obviously psyched, 3) somewhere in the list there might be a shot which is good or provides beta and 4) I've posted tons of pics that most people ... more >>


Location: UT : Ibex : Bouldering : Brian's Boulder : 2. V1 (V1)
By: Boissal When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: A great photographer might refrain from framing his shots so that the climber's feet are cropped and his shadow, shoes or half of his leg end up in the frame. He might also consider moving back a bit so that more of a third of the problem is visible and avoiding heinous buttshots.

I'm sure Mark is a great guy and photographer and you're great at defending your friends on the internet. You both make a very poor show of it on here though... Andrew was as polite as can be and doesn't have to be su... more >>


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Upper Jungle : Silverback (5.11-)
By: Boissal When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: I hear there's a red tag on a line at the mouth of the Lower Jungle so I'm claiming 100!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower One : Cause for Alarm (5.10b/c)
By: Boissal When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: And original at that...
It's not grade inflation, it's subjectivity and the Martinez way. At least his shit is consistently soft. How hard do you think this pitch would be in the Gunks? In Maple?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Serenity
By: Boissal When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: Solid work gentlemen! It's not everyday that you see 25 odd new routes pop up in AF. Can't wait to visit the crag and clean some of the choss off! I like the naming scheme too!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower One : Cause for Alarm (5.10b/c)
By: Boissal When: Sep 7, 2013

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Comments: Dude you're so hard. Downgrading Hellgate is so 5 years ago so...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Neff's Canyon : Cirque of the Toweritas : Stinky Finger of Fate (5.8)
By: Boissal When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: BAHHAHAHAHA!
You joined a few days ago to give 3 bombs to 3 routes put up by the Choss Lords of the Wasatch? In a remote area which they openly described as a complete heap? With a route description clearly stating that there are no chains and a hairy walk-off? With a route name suggesting is might involve "rock" even crappier than mudstone?

Congrats on sandbagging yourself super hard and not dying. Way to get after it though, these things might not see another ascent for a decade.

I recommen... more >>


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area
By: Boissal When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: What's a Cottonwood Canyon attitude?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : Deltoid Force (5.11a)
By: Boissal When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: I would say the rating is one of the most gratuitous sandbags around, even at V2/3 for the boulder problem.


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Lower Jungle : Photo
By: Boissal When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: This is all Photoshop. The place is a real pile in person.

Not. Awesome pictures Andy!!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering
By: Boissal When: Jul 26, 2013

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Comments: Looking pretty good... You might want to borrow a black bible if you can, half of the boulder and problems at WPS are already named.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Hydroplane (5.10c)
By: Boissal When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: You can tell he was out of his element with the LCC Lend Me A Dime post because he still threw BCC in the description (pre-edit, fixed now)...
Way to milk the ancient crags! Can't wait to get on this.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Boissal When: Jul 12, 2013

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Comments: I don't want to ruin your OS with a high-res shot you'd print and bring to the crag, already tick-marked and all!


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