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Bob Rotert


Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: Nov 4, 2014
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Point Rank: # 2,333
Total Points: 238
Last Year: 34
Last 30 Days: 1
14 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bob Rotert been climbing?










Contributions


All 384 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 13 | Page Improvements | Comments 113 | Posts 3 | Stars 113 | Ratings 136
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : The Side Wall (5.11b R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 3, 2008

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Comments: I gonna stick my neck out here and say this thing protects pretty poorly for the crux. I agree you can get some decent stuff that protects you up to the base of the slanting roof. Once I got up to the stance under the slanting hang. My experience was the gear sucked. All I got was some opposed RPs in a flare that I definitely wouldn't want to fall on. If you fall leading up to the bolt, the crux, & these failed, you would be seriously hurting!! Maybe I have been clipping to many bolts or just q... more >>


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Glass Menagerie (5.13a PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 24, 2007

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Comments: The vision of climbing this route free was Jeep Gaskin's in the Mid 70's. The iconic hardman of that era, Henry Barber had been out visiting & recently freed Cornflake Crack. That really opened our eyes to what was possible & might be possible from a free climbing perspective at the Glass.

Shortly after Barber's free ascent I managed to lead the second free ascent of Cornflake Crack with Jeep & some other friends. That was a quantum leap for us & inspired us to believe we might be making som... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 4
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 4, 2007

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Comments: Don't you mean this is the start of Ridge 4. In the above description. Sounds like you are saying Ridge 4 is Ridge 2.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Corner Pump Station (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 28, 2007

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Comments: Awesome route!! Fine movement. Excellent exposure. Makes you want to say Oh Momma! and Oh Momma!!! again, Maybe 11c maybe more than 11c... Since this route was originally tagged as 11c I'm thinking maybe Anonymous Coward and others are reluctant to say this one is harder than 11c. I could maybe see 11c if the upper crux had some fixed pro, or if you don't flash it and have the benefit or a rest mid pitch.

To try for some "Lumpy" rating comparisons. I did Dead Boy Direct a couple of years ago.... more >>


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : Hyperbola (5.10a R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 23, 2007

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Comments: Great addition Grover. I didn't remember that you & Dave had done this to the top when you freed it. Hell it was only 30 plus yrs ago!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Wingshot (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 22, 2007

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Comments: Wayne, no offense taken here. I agree it's pinching hairs. Unless those grades are bouncing around towards the top of your scale. I like the 11-, 11, and 11+ rating system better as well. I guess I just found this thing to be more than a "hair" harder than I expected for an Eldo 11b.... And was looking for some validation, to see if some other folks, that had done it recently might concur that this more like solid 11. Cheers Bro!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Wishbone (5.11b/c PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 15, 2007

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Comments: I can see this route, bolted as it is, is going to generate some controversy between various opinions.

Another note. I am not the "Bob" referred to in the comments above. That is referring to Bob D' Antonio who has, for some reason, removed his comments..

First of all, great route & nice addition to the canyon Kevin!! It sure is nice to have a new route to climb! I can understand and would have to agree with those that state in comments above the runout at the top is contrived & out of charac... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Wingshot (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 15, 2007

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Comments: I did this route recently. 10/15/07 Although many years past I use to go up to this area a lot to do Blues Power & Office Girls. I didn't remember doing this thing in the past and remember I had kind of scoffed at it thinking it wasn't really worth doing. Well, I got a big surprise today. I know I'm much weaker these days, but this thing sure didn't feel like any 11b today. I did it with Dave Ingersoll & we both felt it was upwards of 5.11c. I would certainly scoff at the 11b rating.... Interes... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Crack of Fear (5.10d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 16, 2007

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Comments: Just to weigh in on the bolt question. The old bolts have been there too long... I think it would be a great service if someone would replace them so they are reliable protection. Otherwise, they might as well not be there.... It does not make sense to me to remove them just because there is larger protection available today. Although, I can understand why some might lobby for that. Not everyone has big bros or double/ triple #5 & 6 cams. Not only were the bolts used for the FFA it also ma... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 15, 2007

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Comments: Absolutely one of the top routes in Eldo. For the fun of it & to see what a couple of old guys might be able to do... Dave Vaughan & I were able to shorten the Gilbert & Slater 1:38 speed record on the edge, stated in Steve Levin's earlier post. On 9/06/06 our time was 1:22 parking lot to parking lot done traditional style, no french free, no simul climbing and no skate boarding down the East Slabs. As a follow up and for some additional fun to make things even more interesting we followed that ... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Reading Raymond Chandler (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 10, 2007

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Comments: Your missing something... \;0) footwork is key!!! I've not done Far Reaches but I did this back in the early 80s and this isn't 12 c/d. The interesting thing is the first time I did it was with Mark Sonnenfeld the guy who put up "The Far Reaches". When we did it there was one pin in Raymond Chandler that protected the crux move & you were glad it was there.... Hopefully it still is.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 9, 2007

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Comments: This one is a Eldo classic!! One of my favorite routes at Rincon. It does require some mind control & enough skill to make sure you don't fall in the first 30 feet. A fall at the beginning would probably have serious consequences. Adding Aerohead to finish adds some more hard climbing for one long pitch with lots of continuous climbing.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : Dum Dee Dum Dum (5.10c PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Apr 25, 2007

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Comments: There are two ways to do this route free. The original way, done by Bob Mitchell, went up to the base of the crack, did an undercling out right & then traversed back left to enter the crack above the first flared section of crack.

The other way is to climb the crack direct. This was first done by Henry Barber on his visit to Looking Glass.. Probably the way most folks do it these days.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Genesis (5.12+)
By: Bob Rotert When: Apr 13, 2007

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Comments: I'm referring to doing the whole pitch, 5.12, in this post & not just up to the chains as most parties do. I have done this route many times in the past in the late 80s & early 90s. But I was up there the other day and this route appears to have lost a good, key, left foothold that used to be there on the initial undercling, stem, layback, mantle sequence.(5.12 Crux) You used to be able to get a pretty good, wide stem with it before doing an opposition/mantle layback move up to the pin scar/fi... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Fourth Of July Crack (Hard ... (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Apr 10, 2007

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Comments: Had to have been freed more like the early '80s. I know I did it free around '83, and it had been freed by those boys before then.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Vision Quest (5.10d PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 20, 2007

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Comments: Great route!!! As George Lowe mentions we also noticed the tower block on top of pitch one has some play. We combined the last 2 pitches in one also because no anchor showed when leading the 3rd pitch. We summited the south tower & found one crappy bolt at the top of the King of Pain South summit tower. Nothing you would want to rap from.

I would not recommend rapping down this route. It only has 1 fixed drilled angle at the top of pitch 1 & 2. Also I believe it has lots of potential for ropes... more >>


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : Hyperbola (5.10a R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 23, 2006

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Comments: I added Diff Ritchie in on the FFA of this route as he had also freed the first pitch of this route close to the same time period.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Iron Pony (5.11d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 22, 2006

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Comments: Hank, your age probably isn't the factor. Now not seeing the moves right off might be a possibility. \;o) Damnit, I can't read or even place RPs without glasses anymore!! Makes it hard to find those micro edges quick....

I wouldn't argue with anyone's assessment of 12a for this one. Hearing you feel this is 12a sure makes an old guy like me feel good, since I didn't think I could climb 12a anymore. I was just going along with the original rating, so I wouldn't look bad. It looks like... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Iron Pony (5.11d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 22, 2006

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Comments: Great route and after getting to the second bolt you do climb quite a bit on the right side of the arete. Essentially doing part of the crux of Pony Express with added hard climbing on up the arete. I thought clipping, I think, the third bolt was a bit cruxy. Fun Arete climbing!!


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Womb (5.11a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 22, 2006

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Comments: This is a great route & probably the hardest free route on the Glass & probably the state when it was freed in the early '70s. I don't mean to take credit away from the first free ascentionests listed here and I am not one to normally quibble on route ascents, but when things are being historically recorded it seems right to get them as accurate as possible. I will also state that this occured over 30 years ago so my timeline memory may not be the most accurate.

This was freed very close to the... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Finger Crack (5.11a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 7, 2006

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Comments: Some folks probably won't like this route, or think it's classic, because it is flaring, awkward, greasy and a bit painful...

Did I scare you away?!

I gave it four stars, because I think it is a trad classic & typical for Lumpy. This route definitely should be done on lead to get the full Monty!!! It's 50 yds from the "old" Lumpy parking lot, so it is a great end of the day burn or harsh out of the car warm up. Long ago dubbed an 11a finger crack by a personal friend and bad ass climber name... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Kloeberdanz (5.11c R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 29, 2006

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Comments: This one can be hard to decipher and that can make a big difference. I agree with Mike Storeim's comment that this route feels much harder today than it did in the mid 70s & 80s, and perhaps the crimper holds in the middle are not as positive as they used to be. But, for me, all routes feel harder now than they did back then. So, I'm not totally sure if it's the holds or just my advancing weight & declining strength. Any other Grey Hairs out there that have done this one lately care to comment... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Doub-Griffith (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 24, 2006

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Comments: I think this is definitely one of the best and one of my favorite routes in Eldo!! Classic!!! I have always called combining Super Arete and this route with Mellow Yellow and with the 12 finish out the old A4 seam right of the normal finish on Mellow Yellow. The Astro Man of Eldorado... What a line and lots of great continuous climbing the whole way.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Wild Kingdom (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 24, 2006

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Comments: Very complimentary write up Richard. I just did this route the other day after not having done it in a long time. I forgot how cool this route is. This is a great Eldo route! Sporty for a sport route. Actually it is not really a sport route. It is supplemented with some trad pro which makes it more interesting than clipping only bolts and the bolts are certainly not at your waist when doing the crux climbing. This makes it a climb that leaves you feeling like you really did a lead. The climb i... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerohead (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 13, 2006

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Comments: This route is a good addition as a way to finish Aerospace. I don't want to sound like I am bashing the route because the climbing is good & hard but in my opinion for a rating I think it is marginally 5.11 if 5.11 at all. For a rating comparison I don't think it comes close in comparison of difficulty to the lower crux moves on Aerospace which is rated within a letter grade of being the same. The climbing is a bit contrived as it basically forces a line in the more difficult area of the upper ... more >>


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