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Bob Rotert


Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: Oct 16, 2014
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Point Rank: # 2,308
Total Points: 237
Last Year: 33
Last 30 Days: 5
14 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bob Rotert been climbing?










Contributions


All 373 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 13 | Page Improvements | Comments 112 | Posts 3 | Stars 107 | Ratings 132
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Minimum Security (5.11c/d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 10, 2008

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Comments: One of my favorite routes at Shelf. One that has a lot of character & very unique compared to most routes at Shelf. Love the position & balancy climbing up the arete. Only thing that would make it better is if you had to do the roof to get to the arete instead of being able to traverse onto the arete. You can climb out under the roof to get established on the aręte vs moving up and then traversing out, feet just above the roof, to the arete. Either way is awesome. Doing the roof a bit harder if... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Excuse Station (5.11)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 30, 2008

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Comments: Awesome splitter, folks with meaty hands should expect it to be hard!! If not, then I guess you don't have an excuse....

I would expect ratings to be all over the 5.11 map for this one. Excellent example of a crack route where hand & even foot size can make a huge difference in difficulty. If your hands fit well enough your not going to find this route particularly hard but if they don't, depending on how bad they fit, be ready for a tough send!!

The smooth 25 foot section with no face hol... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Jaws (V3)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jul 14, 2008

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Comments: I believe I may have done the first ascent of this boulder problem back @ 1972 or 73. I mention it not for the credit of a boulder problem FA, but because it was a huge ego stroke for me and a climbing moment I will never forget.

It was a summer day & I was in Colorado doing some climbing after having spent a month climbing in Yosemite for the first time. I was from the backwater climbing state of North Carolina and was on a climbing pilgrimage. I was 17 and hitching my way back from my stin... more >>


Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Mercury's Lead (5.9 R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jun 2, 2008

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Comments: nbrown thanks for the route write up. Just a little comment on the line & intentions for the way this route was first done. The intention of this line was to stay well right of the Great Arch & be an independent line. I wanted it to fill the Gap between the Great Arch & Rainy Day Women.

It was a very long time ago but what I remember of the first ascent was the climbing and line put me where I ended up placing the second bolt a little bit left of the first bolt. When observed like a directis... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Strawberry Short Cake (5.10)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 23, 2008

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Comments: For the record. "I was wearing diapers, Depends® actually, when I was sending 5.11 X."
LOL \;o)

I recommend them for anybody cimbing 5.11 X


Thanks for the banter Jason. I hope to run into you at the crags sometime and maybe we can get some pitches in. Cheers!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Pineapple Juice (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 22, 2008

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Comments: Eli? The Eli Helmuth!!!

Never thought I would get such response from so many respectable, Bad Ass climbers from this post!! \;o) Thanks for replacing the first bolt, Eli. Much appreciated!! It's good to hear you say you have a lot of confidence in it. At least....

Doubling up/backing up with 2 draws & biners is an available option on critical clip ins. One I use often in this type of situation. I saw this as a situation where there isn't another option for backup/redundancy. But I wo... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Pineapple Juice (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 22, 2008

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Comments: Kelly? The Kelly Cordes!! \;o)

Thanks for your response Kelly. Sounds like you interpreted I was advocating adding another bolt down low. I'm learning you have to be careful what you write on these comments. And you're right, it's absolutely no issue clipping the first bolt. The thing that scared me was doing the hard moves above the single bolt 40 plus feet off the deck, with nothing in between, and thinking what would happen if it broke if I fell on it. At the time, I didn't suss ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Rhythm Method (5.12b R)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 19, 2008

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Comments: Chris, can you elaborate on how this route established. When you say an onsite attempt at this route would be a serious undertaking it sounds like you might be saying the route was previewed or head pointed before the FA? Just trying to get a little more detail on this one. Looks like a proud line! Nice addition Brotha!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Strawberry Short Cake (5.10)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 19, 2008

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Comments: Thanks for your level headed response Jason, I know my comments could have made some folks really fire off back and I fully expected that. Your level comments show good character. I think we misunderstood where each was coming from. Maybe we can get high and I can try this route again & down grade it. \;o) I'm not really used to being given a hard time for overating a route...

I know, your NOT my Brother either.. But I consider most climbers Brothers. So Cheers Bro...


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Strawberry Short Cake (5.10)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 19, 2008

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Comments: Sorry about the fine tuning, Jason. I figured you would be doing what I should be doing. Working instead of spraying about routes on this website. I'm just trying to get off my high horse and write what I really mean.

I can see how what I wrote could be interpreted to imply that George & Earl hangdogged this route. But that was not at all what I was implying and if YOU read closer, you will see I explicitly stated it was not a shot at them. That was directed at what I have seen from other folk... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Strawberry Short Cake (5.10)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 19, 2008

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Comments: Thats because I'm an over the top Guy. Yes I got Lumped.. And my ego was badly bruised. But even with my "bruised ego" I can say I've been Lumped more than twice at Lumpy. That's why I am making statements about the Lumpy ratings. They are very contradictory & frankly just plain inaccurate at times. Ratings are subjective and need unprejudiced, honest consensus to have some validity. Otherwise they are pretty worthless.
Folks, inherently, are reluctant to contradict established or stated ratin... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Corner Pump Station (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 18, 2008

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Comments: Okay I just went back an repeated this route this weekend. And I gotta say I still think this route is harder than 11c. Especially if there is no fixed gear on the last section. If you lead this thing clean with no hangs, I think your gonna find the last section as being the crux of this climb. Not the section by the pin. And I'll tell ya I've done many 11+'s I thought were easier. The Lumpy rating system sure needs some honest consensus help.

Definitely one of the best routes I've done at Lump... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Strawberry Short Cake (5.10)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 18, 2008

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Comments: This should be called "The Worlds Hardest 10!" I found it hard to get any good pro over the initial roof in the flaring crack, before you start up the business, and trying to get some can really wear you down on this one.

I went to lead this one at the end of a day of climbing and thinking 10c. This shouldn't be too bad, a good warm down route. I got my ass handed to me! \;o)

Something must have gotten lost in the translation between George & Earl, and the guide book author becau... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Pineapple Juice (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 18, 2008

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Comments: This really a good face route, but boy is it in bad need of rebolting. Except for the first bolt, which by the way is 40 ft off the deck and protecting the crux moves. The remaining bolts are very rusty & look like old 5/16th inch bolts with homemade hangers. It would be nice to see this route rebolted and maybe an extra bolt installed at the first bolt just for some redundancy. If you can't use the same hole in a bolt replacement/upgrade project just leave the first bolt in instead of chopping... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Joker (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 1, 2008

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Comments: Funny to see Elanor getting an 11+ rating and this route 11b on this site. I would agree with the 11 rating for this route. It actually feels harder than Elanor to me. From what I've seen with other folks climbing it, I bet Elanor gets onsighted more than this route. My point being Elanor at 11+ is probably quite over rated. The ratings in Bolter Canyon sure are wacky... But then BC is its own world.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Get A Life (5.12)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 28, 2008

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Comments: Awesome route Brett! Man, you sure have contributed a lot of great FAs in the desert. One of the best in the Monument and a top desert route. The rock on the first 2 pitches is Indian Creek quality. We ran the first 2 pitches as one which makes for one hell of a great pitch. Most folks would want a lot of #2 Friends to do this.

I found the upper last pitch a bit scary. The rock is sandy and not so good and there is the possibility of getting banged up if you do fall. Very exciting finish... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Shune's Buttress (5.11+)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 26, 2008

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Comments: One of the best routes I have done in Zion and a 5 star route for anywhere!! I would endorse the Goldstein ratings, see route description above, for the crux pitches. Don't be intimidated by the 11+ ratings stated in the initial route description post. Since Evan is a 5.13 climber he probably can't tell the difference between 11c and 11+. It all feels 5.easy to him. 11c is probably closer to correct. Unless you do it in the heat. Like my buddies Dave V and Dirk H. Then's it probably 12 somet... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Genius Loci (5.11d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: Aside from the upper part that was removed, and I agree that it should have been. I think this is one sweet climb! When it was put up, it was both a visionary climb and a bit of a travesty. It has amazing climbing up the arete and the position is just incredible! This "untraditional version" up the Edge attracted a lot of nay sayers because of the contrived & intrusive nature of the upper half which continued up the left side of the arete, with bolts for pro. With that part removed, the bolts ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Tubesock Tanline (5.11d R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: I don't know Crusher. I've never heard anyone else call Sherman "shy and bashful"!!

Maybe modest and humble, respectful and unpretentious, unassuming and tasteful? Maybe none of those? I don't know. I guess someone as unique and flamboyant as John Sherman defies description. But you could certainly call him one hell of a good climber!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Wasabe (5.12b/c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: It does still go as of this date. I watched a guy do it just the other day. I don't remember there ever being much for the feet to work with on this one to begin with. True that height, could be an issue on this one, Tony.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Crack Attack (5.11-)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 2, 2008

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Comments: Just an FYI since the FA wasn't listed for this write up. Jay Smith did the FA on this classic.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 23, 2008

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Comments: Sorry, since this is on of my favorite routes in Eldo. I can't help piping in here. Adding a bolt to this climb would be considered pretty disrespectful to the FA and probably very offensive to many folks who have climbed this route as it exists today. While I can understand the debate it sounds like some folks don't understand why others wouldn't want someone to add bolts to an existing climb to make it safer. Perhaps some just feel all climbs should be made safe.

Joshua, I mean no disrespect... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Art Of Slappiness (5.13b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 18, 2008

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Comments: Congratulations Chris! This has been waiting a long time to be completed.. Nice Work!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Salvation (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 18, 2008

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Comments: You can get gear in at the corner of the roof. It is an opposed gear rig & takes some fidgeting to get in. But definitely is worth taking the time to get in. With a long sling it helps to help protect the 5.11 face traverse moves to get up to the bolt under the roof.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : The Side Wall (5.11b R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 3, 2008

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Comments: I gonna stick my neck out here and say this thing protects pretty poorly for the crux. I agree you can get some decent stuff that protects you up to the base of the slanting roof. Once I got up to the stance under the slanting hang. My experience was the gear sucked. All I got was some opposed RPs in a flare that I definitely wouldn't want to fall on. If you fall leading up to the bolt, the crux, & these failed, you would be seriously hurting!! Maybe I have been clipping to many bolts or just q... more >>


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