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Bob Rotert


Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Point Rank: # 2,306
Total Points: 228
Last Year: 26
Last 30 Days: 1
14 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bob Rotert been climbing?










Contributions


All 333 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvments | Comments 108 | Posts 2 | Stars 92 | Ratings 113
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Temporary Like Achilles (5.10b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 12, 2010

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Comments: Curious if anyone has some confirmed knowledge of other free ascents of the roof? Has anyone succeeded in freeing it after Ben Moon's FFA back in early '90s. It looks like one of the hardest routes in Eldo to me.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Hands In The Clouds (5.12a A0)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 12, 2010

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Comments: Just a correction to the write up above from Richard. I believe the Archilles roof was first freed by Ben Moon and not Jerry Moffat as written above. Maybe Moffat did it as well. I don't recall hearing of the roof being freed by anyone else, and I had heard some holds had snapped on previous attempts since Moon's ascent. Maybe some one else knows more about this. At any rate, most mortals will aid the roof to get to Hands in the Clouds.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress : The Bucket List (5.11a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 3, 2010

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Comments: I visited this cliff for the first time last weekend and was really impressed with the great climbing here. We did this route and it is indeed wild and awesome!! One of the best on the cliff. I followed this one and it felt a little harder than 11- to me. I like the Boulder Canyon comment above. \;o) This would probably be 11d in Boulder Canyon. LOL nice to see this cliff actually using the YDS rating system on some routes.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress : The Bruise Collector (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 3, 2010

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Comments: Fun, hard to read, pumpy, three dimensional climbing. With thought provoking sidepulls, underclings, stemming and scumming. It felt like it didn't have any individual moves technically harder than Temptation Arete. However, taken as a whole, without stepping off way left for a rest Richard mentions above and I have seen others use.... I would describe it as endurance oriented and, in that respect, I felt it was harder than T Arete, which we did earlier in the day.

As most of us realize and I ... more >>


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Womb (5.11a) : Photo
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 15, 2010

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Comments: Love the Photo Grover! Very cool and stylish shirt Jeep has on. Not so sure about the date you placed on this one. \;o)


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Womb (5.11a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 12, 2010

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Comments: Very cool to see your comments and recollections on this site Old Friend. All of this was a very long time ago and apparently your memory is a bit different from mine. For the Womb what I thought was probably important is to recognize you most likely did do the First Lead FA out of the Womb. It doesn't matter that much to me if it was previously with Dave Shephard or with Tim and I.

As for the comments on the Whiteside route. What I remember is you and I completed the FA of Great Boulder Probl... more >>


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : The Legendary Nuclear Bomb (5.11b R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 12, 2010

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Comments: What a route!! It took two Looking Glass slab masters to pull this one off. The vision & name of this route was Jeep Gaskin's and this line was put in up to the final crux pitch and attempted by Jeep with various partners several times before the route was completed. Monty Reagan deserves high credit for doing what was the "stopper crux lead" on this climb and pulling off the complete first ascent of this humbling route with Jeep.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Iron Side Wall : One Thin Line (5.11a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 5, 2010

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Comments: This route seemed as hard or technically harder than the route rated 11c to its right.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Olmsted Canyon : Lord Caffeine (5.10d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 9, 2010

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Comments: Sweet route, felt like a SANDBAG to me! Take some caffine and have fun!!


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Chicken Dance (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 5, 2010

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Comments: Seems like to make the "best" of the climbing at Table Mtn some times you have to climb a little contrived and ignore the easier way. I thought this was a really cool route. I like the variety this has with some jamming and the pumpy nature of the climb. The "sporting" way to do this route is to run this straight up the crack to the bird hole, not using the stems on the bottom half. If you stem on the right wall or use holds in or near the chimney, sorry, that's gonna have to be a penalty. \@SEM... more >>


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : Predator (5.12+)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 22, 2009

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Comments: Awesome masterpiece route by Whitney! Nice to see this written up here Chummer. If I recall correctly. I was visting from Colorado and climbing with Whitney when he did the first free ascent, red point, around 1990 or so. He had already placed all the bolts & had freed everything prior except for getting it totally clean at the crux. He was giving me the tour, as I hadn't climbed at the Glass in years, and we went there to try and polish off the FFA. He took the lead first a went up and took o... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Riddler (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 7, 2009

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Comments: Harder than Elanor...\;o) IMHO.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Crack of Fear (5.10d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jul 16, 2009

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Comments: It's good to get some consensus opinions when talking about bolt removals and altering a route in some way that has existed for many years. And no offense meant to anyone on this post because I don't know who has or has not done this. However, I think there should be a caveat for posts on a route bolt removal request, moving a bolt is a different issue. But to have a "fair" assessment only folks that have actually lead the route without using the bolts should/would have the merit & reference to... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Friday the 13th (5.11+)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jun 29, 2009

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Comments: I agree with the rating change for this route and I'm with Malcom. Just because the anchors have been there for a long time doesn't mean they should have been placed there to begin with. Did anyone contact the folks that did the FA to see if they were ok with installing a bolted anchor in the middle of this pitch? This climb was originally put up as a 2 pitch climb because that is how it should've done to be considered a free climb.If you were to use the chain anchor or belay here, since it is ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Sequential (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 7, 2009

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Comments: I totally agree! Unfair advantage if your name is "Hank Caylor". This would be a proud 12 send if you're a mortal.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Drifting (5.11c PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 22, 2009

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Comments: This is route is amazing!! Congratulations to the FA party for seeing this line and establishing this gem. Excellent climbing on every pitch and what a line.. First & second pitch ratings seemed right on. After that the upper pitches, in my opinion, felt a bit softer than the grades given in the above description. Regardless of ratings the climbing was brilliant!!


For some advice on logistics. If you want to travel a little lighter you could easily do without the #3 Camalot. We simo r... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Deseret Moon (5.11)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 2, 2009

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Comments: Uhmm... Guess that's why there use to be a bolt there. Folks, I know many do it, but I would recommend not trusting tiny cams in this rock for much. I can tell you, multiple true stories about small cams & even larger cams pulling in this rock with sometimes very bad consequences. Be careful and remember, it's a very long way to the Emergency Room from Indian Creek.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Sequential (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jan 21, 2009

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Comments: I think Rob is saying the moves are not "technically" hard. I would agree, the crux factors on this climb are power and the strength to endure. The FA was done with one fixed nut to protect the crux moves near the top and having to place this piece would make it quite a bit more difficult since the pump factor is mainly what you are fighting on this one.

I think difficulty perspectives are getting skewed here by some folks. This one is strenuous & powerful and you aren't going to be able to ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Polygrip (5.11)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 8, 2008

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Comments: Slightly, much harder than Rock Lobster. Awesome route!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : No Lo Contendere (5.10c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 22, 2008

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Comments: I think this is a good & worthy route, but don't get on it if you don't have the skills for a little risque climbing. You have to be in control to do this climb and you probably will deck if you fall at the 5.8ish move getting to the ramp 20' above the first bolt. The opening moves should filter out most that should not be on this route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Terminal Velocity (5.11b/c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 13, 2008

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Comments: For the upper section of the lower crux, it seems kind of ridiculous not to place some pro in the Handcrack climb on the right when you can just reach right over to it. Just need a long sling to keep from getting rope drag. This will keep you from taking a "Terminal Velocity" braking fall or falling onto some marginal RPs.

But if you want to make this climb more serious than it needs to be I guess you could avoid this.

Except for the gear fiddling issues on the lower crux section, the hardest ... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Minimum Security (5.11c/d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 10, 2008

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Comments: One of my favorite routes at Shelf. One that has a lot of character & very unique compared to most routes at Shelf. Love the position & balancy climbing up the arete. Only thing that would make it better is if you had to do the roof to get to the arete instead of being able to traverse onto the arete. You can climb out under the roof to get established on the arÍte vs moving up and then traversing out, feet just above the roof, to the arete. Either way is awesome. Doing the roof a bit harder if... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Excuse Station (5.11)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 30, 2008

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Comments: Awesome splitter, folks with meaty hands should expect it to be hard!! If not, then I guess you don't have an excuse....

I would expect ratings to be all over the 5.11 map for this one. Excellent example of a crack route where hand & even foot size can make a huge difference in difficulty. If your hands fit well enough your not going to find this route particularly hard but if they don't, depending on how bad they fit, be ready for a tough send!!

The smooth 25 foot section with no face hol... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Jaws (V3)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jul 14, 2008

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Comments: I believe I may have done the first ascent of this boulder problem back @ 1972 or 73. I mention it not for the credit of a boulder problem FA, but because it was a huge ego stroke for me and a climbing moment I will never forget.

It was a summer day & I was in Colorado doing some climbing after having spent a month climbing in Yosemite for the first time. I was from the backwater climbing state of North Carolina and was on a climbing pilgrimage. I was 17 and hitching my way back from my stin... more >>


Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Mercury's Lead (5.9 R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jun 2, 2008

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Comments: nbrown thanks for the route write up. Just a little comment on the line & intentions for the way this route was first done. The intention of this line was to stay well right of the Great Arch & be an independent line. I wanted it to fill the Gap between the Great Arch & Rainy Day Women.

It was a very long time ago but what I remember of the first ascent was the climbing and line put me where I ended up placing the second bolt a little bit left of the first bolt. When observed like a directis... more >>


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