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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : Isis Buttress : Living Dead (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 9, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route, but as with most posts here, I would not agree with the rating. I can see a lot of people feel the first crux, which I believe was rated 10c in [Gillett's] guide is harder than the supposed 11b upper crux. I would almost agree. Lower crux is definitely more strenous & painful the upper crux is more technical but not as hard if you have good footwork & stay calm. To help with a consensus rating I would rate this climb 10+ or maybe 11-. If you think this is 11, you're really in for a... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : Isis Buttress : Dead Boy Direct (5.11+)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 9, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is another "Malcolm Daly "Lumpy ridge classic!! This is a great route!! Can't believe I've waited till I am "almost" to old, fat, and weak to climb it. For some beta, there is small but good pro leading up to the crux bulge. Can be a little strenous getting in. I remember using a blue TCU which seemed very good before executing what I thought was the crux. They say it's not good to visualize falling but, the fall would be very clean if taken. The most difficult technical move is a layback ... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Between The Sheets (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 9, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route yesterday with Richard Aschert and both of us agreed it is a great route. Also agreed the 11 c rating was a bit under what the route should be rated. To try and help with concensus on rating this route. For a onsight trad lead, we both agreed if we were to split the letter grades, it might be closer to 11d/12a [than] 11d/11c. But letter grades can be like splitting hairs. I prefer the the 11 minus, solid 11, or 11 plus rating system where I would have no problem calling this 11+.... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Le Stat (5.11d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jun 15, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: First pitch is very hard for the grade. Not what you would expect for a Boulder Canyon 11d. This would be a hard on sight on less you were prepared or told what to expect. After failing first time up trying to move statically thru the crux. I moved left on the finger tip crack and dynoed for the horn with bad feet. Once executed it seemed not bad. Kind of a quick boulder problem move. Seemed hard the first time up but once I did it in retrospect it did not seem too bad. Perhaps that is the reas... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Consilience (5.11b/c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jun 15, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun route and an interesting slab climb. D'Antonio is the FA Meister!! Thanks for this one Bob!
I was surprised to see so many excellent climbers rating this 11 and not even easy 11.
Makes me think maybe I was on the wrong route...
To offer some comparisons for perspective.
> Crux of Aerospace in Eldo rated 11b,
> last Pitch of Doub Griffith rated 11b,
> 1st pitch of Athletes Feat rated 11a,
> 1st pitch of Country Club rated 11c,... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : West Overhang (5.11a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 8, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe Andy Donson is correct in his statements on this route & the confusion about 11+. The original aid line of the West Face has been confused, by various guidebook authors with an 11+ variation up the North Face, done I heard by Randy Levitt but I am not sure of this, as Andy describes. The original aid line, of the West Face has never been freed by anyone I know of and would be quite an achievement due to the lack of holds and protection!! The West Face goes at 11a by traversing above th... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Curvaceous (5.11c/d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 7, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Boy this is a great route, but I can not believe the grade inflations on some of these sport routes these days. To rate this 11c/d is a hugh ego stroke. I believe this route would maybe be rated 10+ if done in the 80's. Good comparison route would be to go do Guenese in Eldorado. Guenese is rated 11a now, I believe Erickson rated 10+ when he freed it and that is with going thru the roof on the first pitch and not utilizing the cheater belay under the roof. This is an awesome route but some of th... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Hesitation Blues (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jul 26, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, probably harder during the first ascent as the rock has sinced cleaned up from folks climbing it. I find the 11b rating off compared to some other 11b Veedauwoo climbs. Example would be if you compare this to one if it's neighbor climbs, Ghost Dance which is also rated 11b. I think you will find Ghost Dance substantailly harder.. Now if one and which one should have it's rating changed I will leave open to comment.
If you watch the rope drag you can lead this thing in one pitch to... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Spicoli (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jan 9, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good route. For an opinion on rating. I think the submitted rating of 11b is a bit low unless you have previous knowledge of the route. Routes should be rated for the on sight not after you know the moves & have been on them. I have seen several strong partners fully capable of flashing 11c end up not flashing this route. It seems to be hard for folks to see the correct moves on this first time up and if you are not strong melt down at the middle crux. But that's okay let's keep the st... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : Renaissance Wall : Renaissance Wall (5.12c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 25, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this climb is awesome!! Although out of character for most Lumpy ridge climbs I think it is one of the best I have done at Lumpy. Like Randy says it should be done in 2 pitches. The second pitch when done combinig what people here are calling the 2nd a 3rd pitch makes for an incredible and sustained pitch of climbing. I could barely lift the rope to clip in at the end.
It is nice to be able to get off with one rope. So, Randy I would not recommend pulling the anchors you put in. Just n... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Zip Code (5.11-)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 4, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: After my experience on this route I can see why some would think it is hard and some would think it is easy. My partner gave me the wrong beta and told me to go up high with your right hand for a hold to do the crux. The discrepancy around the ratings I think depends on how you do the crux. I found this approach very difficult and eventually found a good, very positive, intermediate hidden edge lower in the crack/seam. If you miss the good hidden edge in the crack/seam and reach past it and up h... more >>
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