Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Bob Rotert


Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: Nov 4, 2014
Contact Bob Rotert


Point Rank: # 2,333
Total Points: 238
Last Year: 34
Last 30 Days: 1
14 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bob Rotert been climbing?










Contributions


All 384 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 13 | Page Improvements | Comments 113 | Posts 3 | Stars 113 | Ratings 136
Page 5 of 16.  <<First   <Prev   3  4  5  6  7   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Wishbone (5.11b/c PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 15, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: I can see this route, bolted as it is, is going to generate some controversy between various opinions.

Another note. I am not the "Bob" referred to in the comments above. That is referring to Bob D' Antonio who has, for some reason, removed his comments..

First of all, great route & nice addition to the canyon Kevin!! It sure is nice to have a new route to climb! I can understand and would have to agree with those that state in comments above the runout at the top is contrived & out of charac... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Wingshot (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 15, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: I did this route recently. 10/15/07 Although many years past I use to go up to this area a lot to do Blues Power & Office Girls. I didn't remember doing this thing in the past and remember I had kind of scoffed at it thinking it wasn't really worth doing. Well, I got a big surprise today. I know I'm much weaker these days, but this thing sure didn't feel like any 11b today. I did it with Dave Ingersoll & we both felt it was upwards of 5.11c. I would certainly scoff at the 11b rating.... Interes... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Crack of Fear (5.10d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 16, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Just to weigh in on the bolt question. The old bolts have been there too long... I think it would be a great service if someone would replace them so they are reliable protection. Otherwise, they might as well not be there.... It does not make sense to me to remove them just because there is larger protection available today. Although, I can understand why some might lobby for that. Not everyone has big bros or double/ triple #5 & 6 cams. Not only were the bolts used for the FFA it also ma... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 15, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Absolutely one of the top routes in Eldo. For the fun of it & to see what a couple of old guys might be able to do... Dave Vaughan & I were able to shorten the Gilbert & Slater 1:38 speed record on the edge, stated in Steve Levin's earlier post. On 9/06/06 our time was 1:22 parking lot to parking lot done traditional style, no french free, no simul climbing and no skate boarding down the East Slabs. As a follow up and for some additional fun to make things even more interesting we followed that ... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Reading Raymond Chandler (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 10, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Your missing something... \;0) footwork is key!!! I've not done Far Reaches but I did this back in the early 80s and this isn't 12 c/d. The interesting thing is the first time I did it was with Mark Sonnenfeld the guy who put up "The Far Reaches". When we did it there was one pin in Raymond Chandler that protected the crux move & you were glad it was there.... Hopefully it still is.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 9, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: This one is a Eldo classic!! One of my favorite routes at Rincon. It does require some mind control & enough skill to make sure you don't fall in the first 30 feet. A fall at the beginning would probably have serious consequences. Adding Aerohead to finish adds some more hard climbing for one long pitch with lots of continuous climbing.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : Dum Dee Dum Dum (5.10c PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Apr 25, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: There are two ways to do this route free. The original way, done by Bob Mitchell, went up to the base of the crack, did an undercling out right & then traversed back left to enter the crack above the first flared section of crack.

The other way is to climb the crack direct. This was first done by Henry Barber on his visit to Looking Glass.. Probably the way most folks do it these days.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Genesis (5.12+)
By: Bob Rotert When: Apr 13, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: I'm referring to doing the whole pitch, 5.12, in this post & not just up to the chains as most parties do. I have done this route many times in the past in the late 80s & early 90s. But I was up there the other day and this route appears to have lost a good, key, left foothold that used to be there on the initial undercling, stem, layback, mantle sequence.(5.12 Crux) You used to be able to get a pretty good, wide stem with it before doing an opposition/mantle layback move up to the pin scar/fi... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Fourth Of July Crack (Hard ... (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Apr 10, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Had to have been freed more like the early '80s. I know I did it free around '83, and it had been freed by those boys before then.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Vision Quest (5.10d PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 20, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Great route!!! As George Lowe mentions we also noticed the tower block on top of pitch one has some play. We combined the last 2 pitches in one also because no anchor showed when leading the 3rd pitch. We summited the south tower & found one crappy bolt at the top of the King of Pain South summit tower. Nothing you would want to rap from.

I would not recommend rapping down this route. It only has 1 fixed drilled angle at the top of pitch 1 & 2. Also I believe it has lots of potential for ropes... more >>


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : Hyperbola (5.10a R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 23, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: I added Diff Ritchie in on the FFA of this route as he had also freed the first pitch of this route close to the same time period.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Iron Pony (5.11d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 22, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Hank, your age probably isn't the factor. Now not seeing the moves right off might be a possibility. \;o) Damnit, I can't read or even place RPs without glasses anymore!! Makes it hard to find those micro edges quick....

I wouldn't argue with anyone's assessment of 12a for this one. Hearing you feel this is 12a sure makes an old guy like me feel good, since I didn't think I could climb 12a anymore. I was just going along with the original rating, so I wouldn't look bad. It looks like... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Iron Pony (5.11d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 22, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Great route and after getting to the second bolt you do climb quite a bit on the right side of the arete. Essentially doing part of the crux of Pony Express with added hard climbing on up the arete. I thought clipping, I think, the third bolt was a bit cruxy. Fun Arete climbing!!


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Womb (5.11a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 22, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great route & probably the hardest free route on the Glass & probably the state when it was freed in the early '70s. I don't mean to take credit away from the first free ascentionests listed here and I am not one to normally quibble on route ascents, but when things are being historically recorded it seems right to get them as accurate as possible. I will also state that this occured over 30 years ago so my timeline memory may not be the most accurate.

This was freed very close to the... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Finger Crack (5.11a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 7, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Some folks probably won't like this route, or think it's classic, because it is flaring, awkward, greasy and a bit painful...

Did I scare you away?!

I gave it four stars, because I think it is a trad classic & typical for Lumpy. This route definitely should be done on lead to get the full Monty!!! It's 50 yds from the "old" Lumpy parking lot, so it is a great end of the day burn or harsh out of the car warm up. Long ago dubbed an 11a finger crack by a personal friend and bad ass climber name... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Kloeberdanz (5.11c R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 29, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: This one can be hard to decipher and that can make a big difference. I agree with Mike Storeim's comment that this route feels much harder today than it did in the mid 70s & 80s, and perhaps the crimper holds in the middle are not as positive as they used to be. But, for me, all routes feel harder now than they did back then. So, I'm not totally sure if it's the holds or just my advancing weight & declining strength. Any other Grey Hairs out there that have done this one lately care to comment... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Doub-Griffith (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 24, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: I think this is definitely one of the best and one of my favorite routes in Eldo!! Classic!!! I have always called combining Super Arete and this route with Mellow Yellow and with the 12 finish out the old A4 seam right of the normal finish on Mellow Yellow. The Astro Man of Eldorado... What a line and lots of great continuous climbing the whole way.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Wild Kingdom (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 24, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Very complimentary write up Richard. I just did this route the other day after not having done it in a long time. I forgot how cool this route is. This is a great Eldo route! Sporty for a sport route. Actually it is not really a sport route. It is supplemented with some trad pro which makes it more interesting than clipping only bolts and the bolts are certainly not at your waist when doing the crux climbing. This makes it a climb that leaves you feeling like you really did a lead. The climb i... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerohead (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 13, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: This route is a good addition as a way to finish Aerospace. I don't want to sound like I am bashing the route because the climbing is good & hard but in my opinion for a rating I think it is marginally 5.11 if 5.11 at all. For a rating comparison I don't think it comes close in comparison of difficulty to the lower crux moves on Aerospace which is rated within a letter grade of being the same. The climbing is a bit contrived as it basically forces a line in the more difficult area of the upper ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Scorpions (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 9, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: A worthy route and one of my favorite routes on Peanuts. Good climbing with a steep and pumpy crux. Doing this and linking it with Forbidden Planet on upper wall of Lower Peanuts makes for good outing on Lower Peanuts.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Curvaceous (5.11c/d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 9, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Just one more comment and I will leave it at that. I would say folks who seem to get defensive about an over the hill and elderly climbers opinion and post their comments as AC or "A Concerned User" seem insecure to me. The fact is 11c/d should be 11 c/d whether in Eldo, Rifle, Clear Creek, Yosemite, Canada or done in the '70s, '80s, '90s or the Millineum. That's the purpose of a standard rating system.

The way I voiced my opinion above, may have made some feel it was directed at them personal... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : Isis Buttress : Living Dead (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 9, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Good route, but as with most posts here, I would not agree with the rating. I can see a lot of people feel the first crux, which I believe was rated 10c in [Gillett's] guide is harder than the supposed 11b upper crux. I would almost agree. Lower crux is definitely more strenous & painful the upper crux is more technical but not as hard if you have good footwork & stay calm. To help with a consensus rating I would rate this climb 10+ or maybe 11-. If you think this is 11, you're really in for a... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : Isis Buttress : Dead Boy Direct (5.11+)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 9, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: This is another "Malcolm Daly "Lumpy ridge classic!! This is a great route!! Can't believe I've waited till I am "almost" to old, fat, and weak to climb it. For some beta, there is small but good pro leading up to the crux bulge. Can be a little strenous getting in. I remember using a blue TCU which seemed very good before executing what I thought was the crux. They say it's not good to visualize falling but, the fall would be very clean if taken. The most difficult technical move is a layback ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Between The Sheets (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 9, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Did this route yesterday with Richard Aschert and both of us agreed it is a great route. Also agreed the 11 c rating was a bit under what the route should be rated. To try and help with concensus on rating this route. For a onsight trad lead, we both agreed if we were to split the letter grades, it might be closer to 11d/12a [than] 11d/11c. But letter grades can be like splitting hairs. I prefer the the 11 minus, solid 11, or 11 plus rating system where I would have no problem calling this 11+.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Le Stat (5.11d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jun 15, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: First pitch is very hard for the grade. Not what you would expect for a Boulder Canyon 11d. This would be a hard on sight on less you were prepared or told what to expect. After failing first time up trying to move statically thru the crux. I moved left on the finger tip crack and dynoed for the horn with bad feet. Once executed it seemed not bad. Kind of a quick boulder problem move. Seemed hard the first time up but once I did it in retrospect it did not seem too bad. Perhaps that is the reas... more >>


Page 5 of 16.  <<First   <Prev   3  4  5  6  7   Next>   Last>>