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Bob Rotert


Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: Aug 13, 2014
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Point Rank: # 2,305
Total Points: 231
Last Year: 28
Last 30 Days: 3
14 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bob Rotert been climbing?










Contributions


All 345 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvments | Comments 111 | Posts 3 | Stars 93 | Ratings 120
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Strawberry Short Cake (5.10)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 19, 2008

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Comments: Thanks for your level headed response Jason, I know my comments could have made some folks really fire off back and I fully expected that. Your level comments show good character. I think we misunderstood where each was coming from. Maybe we can get high and I can try this route again & down grade it. \;o) I'm not really used to being given a hard time for overating a route...

I know, your NOT my Brother either.. But I consider most climbers Brothers. So Cheers Bro...


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Strawberry Short Cake (5.10)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 19, 2008

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Comments: Sorry about the fine tuning, Jason. I figured you would be doing what I should be doing. Working instead of spraying about routes on this website. I'm just trying to get off my high horse and write what I really mean.

I can see how what I wrote could be interpreted to imply that George & Earl hangdogged this route. But that was not at all what I was implying and if YOU read closer, you will see I explicitly stated it was not a shot at them. That was directed at what I have seen from other folk... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Strawberry Short Cake (5.10)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 19, 2008

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Comments: Thats because I'm an over the top Guy. Yes I got Lumped.. And my ego was badly bruised. But even with my "bruised ego" I can say I've been Lumped more than twice at Lumpy. That's why I am making statements about the Lumpy ratings. They are very contradictory & frankly just plain inaccurate at times. Ratings are subjective and need unprejudiced, honest consensus to have some validity. Otherwise they are pretty worthless.
Folks, inherently, are reluctant to contradict established or stated ratin... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Corner Pump Station (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 18, 2008

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Comments: Okay I just went back an repeated this route this weekend. And I gotta say I still think this route is harder than 11c. Especially if there is no fixed gear on the last section. If you lead this thing clean with no hangs, I think your gonna find the last section as being the crux of this climb. Not the section by the pin. And I'll tell ya I've done many 11+'s I thought were easier. The Lumpy rating system sure needs some honest consensus help.

Definitely one of the best routes I've done at Lump... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Strawberry Short Cake (5.10)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 18, 2008

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Comments: This should be called "The Worlds Hardest 10!" I found it hard to get any good pro over the initial roof in the flaring crack, before you start up the business, and trying to get some can really wear you down on this one.

I went to lead this one at the end of a day of climbing and thinking 10c. This shouldn't be too bad, a good warm down route. I got my ass handed to me! \;o)

Something must have gotten lost in the translation between George & Earl, and the guide book author becau... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Pineapple Juice (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 18, 2008

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Comments: This really a good face route, but boy is it in bad need of rebolting. Except for the first bolt, which by the way is 40 ft off the deck and protecting the crux moves. The remaining bolts are very rusty & look like old 5/16th inch bolts with homemade hangers. It would be nice to see this route rebolted and maybe an extra bolt installed at the first bolt just for some redundancy. If you can't use the same hole in a bolt replacement/upgrade project just leave the first bolt in instead of chopping... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Joker (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 1, 2008

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Comments: Funny to see Elanor getting an 11+ rating and this route 11b on this site. I would agree with the 11 rating for this route. It actually feels harder than Elanor to me. From what I've seen with other folks climbing it, I bet Elanor gets onsighted more than this route. My point being Elanor at 11+ is probably quite over rated. The ratings in Bolter Canyon sure are wacky... But then BC is its own world.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Get A Life (5.12)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 28, 2008

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Comments: Awesome route Brett! Man, you sure have contributed a lot of great FAs in the desert. One of the best in the Monument and a top desert route. The rock on the first 2 pitches is Indian Creek quality. We ran the first 2 pitches as one which makes for one hell of a great pitch. Most folks would want a lot of #2 Friends to do this.

I found the upper last pitch a bit scary. The rock is sandy and not so good and there is the possibility of getting banged up if you do fall. Very exciting finish... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Shune's Buttress (5.11+)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 26, 2008

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Comments: One of the best routes I have done in Zion and a 5 star route for anywhere!! I would endorse the Goldstein ratings, see route description above, for the crux pitches. Don't be intimidated by the 11+ ratings stated in the initial route description post. Since Evan is a 5.13 climber he probably can't tell the difference between 11c and 11+. It all feels 5.easy to him. 11c is probably closer to correct. Unless you do it in the heat. Like my buddies Dave V and Dirk H. Then's it probably 12 somet... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Genius Loci (5.11d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: Aside from the upper part that was removed, and I agree that it should have been. I think this is one sweet climb! When it was put up, it was both a visionary climb and a bit of a travesty. It has amazing climbing up the arete and the position is just incredible! This "untraditional version" up the Edge attracted a lot of nay sayers because of the contrived & intrusive nature of the upper half which continued up the left side of the arete, with bolts for pro. With that part removed, the bolts ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Tubesock Tanline (5.11d R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: I don't know Crusher. I've never heard anyone else call Sherman "shy and bashful"!!

Maybe modest and humble, respectful and unpretentious, unassuming and tasteful? Maybe none of those? I don't know. I guess someone as unique and flamboyant as John Sherman defies description. But you could certainly call him one hell of a good climber!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Wasabe (5.12b/c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: It does still go as of this date. I watched a guy do it just the other day. I don't remember there ever being much for the feet to work with on this one to begin with. True that height, could be an issue on this one, Tony.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Crack Attack (5.11-)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 2, 2008

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Comments: Just an FYI since the FA wasn't listed for this write up. Jay Smith did the FA on this classic.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 23, 2008

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Comments: Sorry, since this is on of my favorite routes in Eldo. I can't help piping in here. Adding a bolt to this climb would be considered pretty disrespectful to the FA and probably very offensive to many folks who have climbed this route as it exists today. While I can understand the debate it sounds like some folks don't understand why others wouldn't want someone to add bolts to an existing climb to make it safer. Perhaps some just feel all climbs should be made safe.

Joshua, I mean no disrespect... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Art Of Slappiness (5.13b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 18, 2008

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Comments: Congratulations Chris! This has been waiting a long time to be completed.. Nice Work!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Salvation (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 18, 2008

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Comments: You can get gear in at the corner of the roof. It is an opposed gear rig & takes some fidgeting to get in. But definitely is worth taking the time to get in. With a long sling it helps to help protect the 5.11 face traverse moves to get up to the bolt under the roof.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : The Side Wall (5.11b R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 3, 2008

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Comments: I gonna stick my neck out here and say this thing protects pretty poorly for the crux. I agree you can get some decent stuff that protects you up to the base of the slanting roof. Once I got up to the stance under the slanting hang. My experience was the gear sucked. All I got was some opposed RPs in a flare that I definitely wouldn't want to fall on. If you fall leading up to the bolt, the crux, & these failed, you would be seriously hurting!! Maybe I have been clipping to many bolts or just q... more >>


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Glass Menagerie (5.13a PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 24, 2007

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Comments: The vision of climbing this route free was Jeep Gaskin's in the Mid 70's. The iconic hardman of that era, Henry Barber had been out visiting & recently freed Cornflake Crack. That really opened our eyes to what was possible & might be possible from a free climbing perspective at the Glass.

Shortly after Barber's free ascent I managed to lead the second free ascent of Cornflake Crack with Jeep & some other friends. That was a quantum leap for us & inspired us to believe we might be making som... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 4
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 4, 2007

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Comments: Don't you mean this is the start of Ridge 4. In the above description. Sounds like you are saying Ridge 4 is Ridge 2.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Corner Pump Station (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 28, 2007

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Comments: Awesome route!! Fine movement. Excellent exposure. Makes you want to say Oh Momma! and Oh Momma!!! again, Maybe 11c maybe more than 11c... Since this route was originally tagged as 11c I'm thinking maybe Anonymous Coward and others are reluctant to say this one is harder than 11c. I could maybe see 11c if the upper crux had some fixed pro, or if you don't flash it and have the benefit or a rest mid pitch.

To try for some "Lumpy" rating comparisons. I did Dead Boy Direct a couple of years ago.... more >>


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : Hyperbola (5.10a R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 23, 2007

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Comments: Great addition Grover. I didn't remember that you & Dave had done this to the top when you freed it. Hell it was only 30 plus yrs ago!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Wingshot (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 22, 2007

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Comments: Wayne, no offense taken here. I agree it's pinching hairs. Unless those grades are bouncing around towards the top of your scale. I like the 11-, 11, and 11+ rating system better as well. I guess I just found this thing to be more than a "hair" harder than I expected for an Eldo 11b.... And was looking for some validation, to see if some other folks, that had done it recently might concur that this more like solid 11. Cheers Bro!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Wishbone (5.11b/c PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 15, 2007

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Comments: I can see this route, bolted as it is, is going to generate some controversy between various opinions.

Another note. I am not the "Bob" referred to in the comments above. That is referring to Bob D' Antonio who has, for some reason, removed his comments..

First of all, great route & nice addition to the canyon Kevin!! It sure is nice to have a new route to climb! I can understand and would have to agree with those that state in comments above the runout at the top is contrived & out of charac... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Wingshot (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 15, 2007

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Comments: I did this route recently. 10/15/07 Although many years past I use to go up to this area a lot to do Blues Power & Office Girls. I didn't remember doing this thing in the past and remember I had kind of scoffed at it thinking it wasn't really worth doing. Well, I got a big surprise today. I know I'm much weaker these days, but this thing sure didn't feel like any 11b today. I did it with Dave Ingersoll & we both felt it was upwards of 5.11c. I would certainly scoff at the 11b rating.... Interes... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Crack of Fear (5.10d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 16, 2007

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Comments: Just to weigh in on the bolt question. The old bolts have been there too long... I think it would be a great service if someone would replace them so they are reliable protection. Otherwise, they might as well not be there.... It does not make sense to me to remove them just because there is larger protection available today. Although, I can understand why some might lobby for that. Not everyone has big bros or double/ triple #5 & 6 cams. Not only were the bolts used for the FFA it also ma... more >>


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