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Bob Rotert


Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,243
Total Points: 225
Last Year: 24
Last 30 Days: 1
11 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (297) | Routes (6) | Areas | Photos (12) | Comments (105) | Posts (2) | Stars (68) | Ratings (104)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Joker (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 1, 2008

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Comments: Funny to see Elanor getting an 11+ rating and this route 11b on this site. I would agree with the 11 rating for this route. It actually feels harder than Elanor to me. From what I've seen with other folks climbing it, I bet Elanor gets onsighted more than this route. My point being Elanor at 11+ is probably quite over rated. The ratings in Bolter Canyon sure are wacky... But then BC is its own world.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Get A Life (5.12)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 28, 2008

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Comments: Awesome route Brett! Man, you sure have contributed a lot of great FAs in the desert. One of the best in the Monument and a top desert route. The rock on the first 2 pitches is Indian Creek quality. We ran the first 2 pitches as one which makes for one hell of a great pitch. Most folks would want a lot of #2 Friends to do this.

I found the upper last pitch a bit scary. The rock is sandy and not so good and there is the possibility of getting banged up if you do fall. Very exciting finish... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Shune's Buttress (5.11+)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 26, 2008

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Comments: One of the best routes I have done in Zion and a 5 star route for anywhere!! I would endorse the Goldstein ratings, see route description above, for the crux pitches. Don't be intimidated by the 11+ ratings stated in the initial route description post. Since Evan is a 5.13 climber he probably can't tell the difference between 11c and 11+. It all feels 5.easy to him. 11c is probably closer to correct. Unless you do it in the heat. Like my buddies Dave V and Dirk H. Then's it probably 12 somet... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Genius Loci (5.11d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: Aside from the upper part that was removed, and I agree that it should have been. I think this is one sweet climb! When it was put up, it was both a visionary climb and a bit of a travesty. It has amazing climbing up the arete and the position is just incredible! This "untraditional version" up the Edge attracted a lot of nay sayers because of the contrived & intrusive nature of the upper half which continued up the left side of the arete, with bolts for pro. With that part removed, the bolts ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Tubesock Tanline (5.11d R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: I don't know Crusher. I've never heard anyone else call Sherman "shy and bashful"!!

Maybe modest and humble, respectful and unpretentious, unassuming and tasteful? Maybe none of those? I don't know. I guess someone as unique and flamboyant as John Sherman defies description. But you could certainly call him one hell of a good climber!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Wasabe (5.12b/c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: It does still go as of this date. I watched a guy do it just the other day. I don't remember there ever being much for the feet to work with on this one to begin with. True that height, could be an issue on this one, Tony.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Crack Attack (5.11-)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 2, 2008

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Comments: Just an FYI since the FA wasn't listed for this write up. Jay Smith did the FA on this classic.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 23, 2008

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Comments: Sorry, since this is on of my favorite routes in Eldo. I can't help piping in here. Adding a bolt to this climb would be considered pretty disrespectful to the FA and probably very offensive to many folks who have climbed this route as it exists today. While I can understand the debate it sounds like some folks don't understand why others wouldn't want someone to add bolts to an existing climb to make it safer. Perhaps some just feel all climbs should be made safe.

Joshua, I mean no disrespect... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Art Of Slappiness (5.13b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 18, 2008

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Comments: Congratulations Chris! This has been waiting a long time to be completed.. Nice Work!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Salvation (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 18, 2008

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Comments: You can get gear in at the corner of the roof. It is an opposed gear rig & takes some fidgeting to get in. But definitely is worth taking the time to get in. With a long sling it helps to help protect the 5.11 face traverse moves to get up to the bolt under the roof.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : The Side Wall (5.11b R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 3, 2008

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Comments: I gonna stick my neck out here and say this thing protects pretty poorly for the crux. I agree you can get some decent stuff that protects you up to the base of the slanting roof. Once I got up to the stance under the slanting hang. My experience was the gear sucked. All I got was some opposed RPs in a flare that I definitely wouldn't want to fall on. If you fall leading up to the bolt, the crux, & these failed, you would be seriously hurting!! Maybe I have been clipping to many bolts or just q... more >>


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Glass Menagerie (5.13a PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 24, 2007

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Comments: The vision of climbing this route free was Jeep Gaskin's in the Mid 70's. The iconic hardman of that era, Henry Barber had been out visiting & recently freed Cornflake Crack. That really opened our eyes to what was possible & might be possible from a free climbing perspective at the Glass.

Shortly after Barber's free ascent I managed to lead the second free ascent of Cornflake Crack with Jeep & some other friends. That was a quantum leap for us & inspired us to believe we might be making som... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 4
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 4, 2007

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Comments: Don't you mean this is the start of Ridge 4. In the above description. Sounds like you are saying Ridge 4 is Ridge 2.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Corner Pump Station (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 28, 2007

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Comments: Awesome route!! Fine movement. Excellent exposure. Makes you want to say Oh Momma! and Oh Momma!!! again, Maybe 11c maybe more than 11c... Since this route was originally tagged as 11c I'm thinking maybe Anonymous Coward and others are reluctant to say this one is harder than 11c. I could maybe see 11c if the upper crux had some fixed pro, or if you don't flash it and have the benefit or a rest mid pitch.

To try for some "Lumpy" rating comparisons. I did Dead Boy Direct a couple of years ago.... more >>


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : Hyperbola (5.10a R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 23, 2007

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Comments: Great addition Grover. I didn't remember that you & Dave had done this to the top when you freed it. Hell it was only 30 plus yrs ago!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Wingshot (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 22, 2007

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Comments: Wayne, no offense taken here. I agree it's pinching hairs. Unless those grades are bouncing around towards the top of your scale. I like the 11-, 11, and 11+ rating system better as well. I guess I just found this thing to be more than a "hair" harder than I expected for an Eldo 11b.... And was looking for some validation, to see if some other folks, that had done it recently might concur that this more like solid 11. Cheers Bro!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Wishbone (5.11b/c PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 15, 2007

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Comments: I can see this route, bolted as it is, is going to generate some controversy between various opinions.

Another note. I am not the "Bob" referred to in the comments above. That is referring to Bob D' Antonio who has, for some reason, removed his comments..

First of all, great route & nice addition to the canyon Kevin!! It sure is nice to have a new route to climb! I can understand and would have to agree with those that state in comments above the runout at the top is contrived & out of charac... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Wingshot (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 15, 2007

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Comments: I did this route recently. 10/15/07 Although many years past I use to go up to this area a lot to do Blues Power & Office Girls. I didn't remember doing this thing in the past and remember I had kind of scoffed at it thinking it wasn't really worth doing. Well, I got a big surprise today. I know I'm much weaker these days, but this thing sure didn't feel like any 11b today. I did it with Dave Ingersoll & we both felt it was upwards of 5.11c. I would certainly scoff at the 11b rating.... Interes... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Crack of Fear (5.10d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 16, 2007

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Comments: Just to weigh in on the bolt question. The old bolts have been there too long... I think it would be a great service if someone would replace them so they are reliable protection. Otherwise, they might as well not be there.... It does not make sense to me to remove them just because there is larger protection available today. Although, I can understand why some might lobby for that. Not everyone has big bros or double/ triple #5 & 6 cams. Not only were the bolts used for the FFA it also ma... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 15, 2007

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Comments: Absolutely one of the top routes in Eldo. For the fun of it & to see what a couple of old guys might be able to do... Dave Vaughan & I were able to shorten the Gilbert & Slater 1:38 speed record on the edge, stated in Steve Levin's earlier post. On 9/06/06 our time was 1:22 parking lot to parking lot done traditional style, no french free, no simul climbing and no skate boarding down the East Slabs. As a follow up and for some additional fun to make things even more interesting we followed that ... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Reading Raymond Chandler (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 10, 2007

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Comments: Your missing something... \;0) footwork is key!!! I've not done Far Reaches but I did this back in the early 80s and this isn't 12 c/d. The interesting thing is the first time I did it was with Mark Sonnenfeld the guy who put up "The Far Reaches". When we did it there was one pin in Raymond Chandler that protected the crux move & you were glad it was there.... Hopefully it still is.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 9, 2007

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Comments: This one is a Eldo classic!! One of my favorite routes at Rincon. It does require some mind control & enough skill to make sure you don't fall in the first 30 feet. A fall at the beginning would probably have serious consequences. Adding Aerohead to finish adds some more hard climbing for one long pitch with lots of continuous climbing.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : Dum Dee Dum Dum (5.10c PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Apr 25, 2007

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Comments: There are two ways to do this route free. The original way, done by Bob Mitchell, went up to the base of the crack, did an undercling out right & then traversed back left to enter the crack above the first flared section of crack.

The other way is to climb the crack direct. This was first done by Henry Barber on his visit to Looking Glass.. Probably the way most folks do it these days.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Genesis (5.12+)
By: Bob Rotert When: Apr 13, 2007

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Comments: I'm referring to doing the whole pitch, 5.12, in this post & not just up to the chains as most parties do. I have done this route many times in the past in the late 80s & early 90s. But I was up there the other day and this route appears to have lost a good, key, left foothold that used to be there on the initial undercling, stem, layback, mantle sequence.(5.12 Crux) You used to be able to get a pretty good, wide stem with it before doing an opposition/mantle layback move up to the pin scar/fi... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Fourth Of July Crack (Hard ... (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Apr 10, 2007

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Comments: Had to have been freed more like the early '80s. I know I did it free around '83, and it had been freed by those boys before then.


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