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Bob Rotert


Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,310
Total Points: 227
Last Year: 26
Last 30 Days: 0
14 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bob Rotert been climbing?










Contributions


All 331 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvments | Comments 107 | Posts 2 | Stars 91 | Ratings 113
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Olmsted Canyon : Lord Caffeine (5.10d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 9, 2010

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Comments: Sweet route, felt like a SANDBAG to me! Take some caffine and have fun!!


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Chicken Dance (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 5, 2010

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Comments: Seems like to make the "best" of the climbing at Table Mtn some times you have to climb a little contrived and ignore the easier way. I thought this was a really cool route. I like the variety this has with some jamming and the pumpy nature of the climb. The "sporting" way to do this route is to run this straight up the crack to the bird hole, not using the stems on the bottom half. If you stem on the right wall or use holds in or near the chimney, sorry, that's gonna have to be a penalty. \@SEM... more >>


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : Predator (5.12+)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 22, 2009

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Comments: Awesome masterpiece route by Whitney! Nice to see this written up here Chummer. If I recall correctly. I was visting from Colorado and climbing with Whitney when he did the first free ascent, red point, around 1990 or so. He had already placed all the bolts & had freed everything prior except for getting it totally clean at the crux. He was giving me the tour, as I hadn't climbed at the Glass in years, and we went there to try and polish off the FFA. He took the lead first a went up and took o... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Riddler (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 7, 2009

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Comments: Harder than Elanor...\;o) IMHO.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Crack of Fear (5.10d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jul 16, 2009

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Comments: It's good to get some consensus opinions when talking about bolt removals and altering a route in some way that has existed for many years. And no offense meant to anyone on this post because I don't know who has or has not done this. However, I think there should be a caveat for posts on a route bolt removal request, moving a bolt is a different issue. But to have a "fair" assessment only folks that have actually lead the route without using the bolts should/would have the merit & reference to... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Friday the 13th (5.11+)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jun 29, 2009

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Comments: I agree with the rating change for this route and I'm with Malcom. Just because the anchors have been there for a long time doesn't mean they should have been placed there to begin with. Did anyone contact the folks that did the FA to see if they were ok with installing a bolted anchor in the middle of this pitch? This climb was originally put up as a 2 pitch climb because that is how it should've done to be considered a free climb.If you were to use the chain anchor or belay here, since it is ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Sequential (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 7, 2009

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Comments: I totally agree! Unfair advantage if your name is "Hank Caylor". This would be a proud 12 send if you're a mortal.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Drifting (5.11c PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 22, 2009

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Comments: This is route is amazing!! Congratulations to the FA party for seeing this line and establishing this gem. Excellent climbing on every pitch and what a line.. First & second pitch ratings seemed right on. After that the upper pitches, in my opinion, felt a bit softer than the grades given in the above description. Regardless of ratings the climbing was brilliant!!


For some advice on logistics. If you want to travel a little lighter you could easily do without the #3 Camalot. We simo r... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Deseret Moon (5.11)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 2, 2009

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Comments: Uhmm... Guess that's why there use to be a bolt there. Folks, I know many do it, but I would recommend not trusting tiny cams in this rock for much. I can tell you, multiple true stories about small cams & even larger cams pulling in this rock with sometimes very bad consequences. Be careful and remember, it's a very long way to the Emergency Room from Indian Creek.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Sequential (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jan 21, 2009

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Comments: I think Rob is saying the moves are not "technically" hard. I would agree, the crux factors on this climb are power and the strength to endure. The FA was done with one fixed nut to protect the crux moves near the top and having to place this piece would make it quite a bit more difficult since the pump factor is mainly what you are fighting on this one.

I think difficulty perspectives are getting skewed here by some folks. This one is strenuous & powerful and you aren't going to be able to ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Polygrip (5.11)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 8, 2008

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Comments: Slightly, much harder than Rock Lobster. Awesome route!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : No Lo Contendere (5.10c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 22, 2008

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Comments: I think this is a good & worthy route, but don't get on it if you don't have the skills for a little risque climbing. You have to be in control to do this climb and you probably will deck if you fall at the 5.8ish move getting to the ramp 20' above the first bolt. The opening moves should filter out most that should not be on this route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Terminal Velocity (5.11b/c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 13, 2008

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Comments: For the upper section of the lower crux, it seems kind of ridiculous not to place some pro in the Handcrack climb on the right when you can just reach right over to it. Just need a long sling to keep from getting rope drag. This will keep you from taking a "Terminal Velocity" braking fall or falling onto some marginal RPs.

But if you want to make this climb more serious than it needs to be I guess you could avoid this.

Except for the gear fiddling issues on the lower crux section, the hardest ... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Minimum Security (5.11c/d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 10, 2008

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Comments: One of my favorite routes at Shelf. One that has a lot of character & very unique compared to most routes at Shelf. Love the position & balancy climbing up the arete. Only thing that would make it better is if you had to do the roof to get to the arete instead of being able to traverse onto the arete. You can climb out under the roof to get established on the aręte vs moving up and then traversing out, feet just above the roof, to the arete. Either way is awesome. Doing the roof a bit harder if... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Excuse Station (5.11)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 30, 2008

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Comments: Awesome splitter, folks with meaty hands should expect it to be hard!! If not, then I guess you don't have an excuse....

I would expect ratings to be all over the 5.11 map for this one. Excellent example of a crack route where hand & even foot size can make a huge difference in difficulty. If your hands fit well enough your not going to find this route particularly hard but if they don't, depending on how bad they fit, be ready for a tough send!!

The smooth 25 foot section with no face hol... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Jaws (V3)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jul 14, 2008

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Comments: I believe I may have done the first ascent of this boulder problem back @ 1972 or 73. I mention it not for the credit of a boulder problem FA, but because it was a huge ego stroke for me and a climbing moment I will never forget.

It was a summer day & I was in Colorado doing some climbing after having spent a month climbing in Yosemite for the first time. I was from the backwater climbing state of North Carolina and was on a climbing pilgrimage. I was 17 and hitching my way back from my stin... more >>


Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Mercury's Lead (5.9 R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jun 2, 2008

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Comments: nbrown thanks for the route write up. Just a little comment on the line & intentions for the way this route was first done. The intention of this line was to stay well right of the Great Arch & be an independent line. I wanted it to fill the Gap between the Great Arch & Rainy Day Women.

It was a very long time ago but what I remember of the first ascent was the climbing and line put me where I ended up placing the second bolt a little bit left of the first bolt. When observed like a directis... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Strawberry Short Cake (5.10)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 23, 2008

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Comments: For the record. "I was wearing diapers, Depends® actually, when I was sending 5.11 X."
LOL \;o)

I recommend them for anybody cimbing 5.11 X


Thanks for the banter Jason. I hope to run into you at the crags sometime and maybe we can get some pitches in. Cheers!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Pineapple Juice (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 22, 2008

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Comments: Eli? The Eli Helmuth!!!

Never thought I would get such response from so many respectable, Bad Ass climbers from this post!! \;o) Thanks for replacing the first bolt, Eli. Much appreciated!! It's good to hear you say you have a lot of confidence in it. At least....

Doubling up/backing up with 2 draws & biners is an available option on critical clip ins. One I use often in this type of situation. I saw this as a situation where there isn't another option for backup/redundancy. But I wo... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Pineapple Juice (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 22, 2008

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Comments: Kelly? The Kelly Cordes!! \;o)

Thanks for your response Kelly. Sounds like you interpreted I was advocating adding another bolt down low. I'm learning you have to be careful what you write on these comments. And you're right, it's absolutely no issue clipping the first bolt. The thing that scared me was doing the hard moves above the single bolt 40 plus feet off the deck, with nothing in between, and thinking what would happen if it broke if I fell on it. At the time, I didn't suss ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Rhythm Method (5.12b R)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 19, 2008

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Comments: Chris, can you elaborate on how this route established. When you say an onsite attempt at this route would be a serious undertaking it sounds like you might be saying the route was previewed or head pointed before the FA? Just trying to get a little more detail on this one. Looks like a proud line! Nice addition Brotha!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Strawberry Short Cake (5.10)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 19, 2008

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Comments: Thanks for your level headed response Jason, I know my comments could have made some folks really fire off back and I fully expected that. Your level comments show good character. I think we misunderstood where each was coming from. Maybe we can get high and I can try this route again & down grade it. \;o) I'm not really used to being given a hard time for overating a route...

I know, your NOT my Brother either.. But I consider most climbers Brothers. So Cheers Bro...


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Strawberry Short Cake (5.10)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 19, 2008

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Comments: Sorry about the fine tuning, Jason. I figured you would be doing what I should be doing. Working instead of spraying about routes on this website. I'm just trying to get off my high horse and write what I really mean.

I can see how what I wrote could be interpreted to imply that George & Earl hangdogged this route. But that was not at all what I was implying and if YOU read closer, you will see I explicitly stated it was not a shot at them. That was directed at what I have seen from other folk... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Strawberry Short Cake (5.10)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 19, 2008

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Comments: Thats because I'm an over the top Guy. Yes I got Lumped.. And my ego was badly bruised. But even with my "bruised ego" I can say I've been Lumped more than twice at Lumpy. That's why I am making statements about the Lumpy ratings. They are very contradictory & frankly just plain inaccurate at times. Ratings are subjective and need unprejudiced, honest consensus to have some validity. Otherwise they are pretty worthless.
Folks, inherently, are reluctant to contradict established or stated ratin... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Corner Pump Station (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 18, 2008

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Comments: Okay I just went back an repeated this route this weekend. And I gotta say I still think this route is harder than 11c. Especially if there is no fixed gear on the last section. If you lead this thing clean with no hangs, I think your gonna find the last section as being the crux of this climb. Not the section by the pin. And I'll tell ya I've done many 11+'s I thought were easier. The Lumpy rating system sure needs some honest consensus help.

Definitely one of the best routes I've done at Lump... more >>


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