Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Bob Rotert


Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: Jul 5, 2014
Contact Bob Rotert


Point Rank: # 2,307
Total Points: 227
Last Year: 26
Last 30 Days: 0
14 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bob Rotert been climbing?










Contributions


All 317 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvments | Comments 107 | Posts 2 | Stars 84 | Ratings 106
Page 5 of 13.  <<First   <Prev   3  4  5  6  7   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Genesis (5.12+)
By: Bob Rotert When: Apr 13, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: I'm referring to doing the whole pitch, 5.12, in this post & not just up to the chains as most parties do. I have done this route many times in the past in the late 80s & early 90s. But I was up there the other day and this route appears to have lost a good, key, left foothold that used to be there on the initial undercling, stem, layback, mantle sequence.(5.12 Crux) You used to be able to get a pretty good, wide stem with it before doing an opposition/mantle layback move up to the pin scar/fi... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Fourth Of July Crack (Hard ... (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Apr 10, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Had to have been freed more like the early '80s. I know I did it free around '83, and it had been freed by those boys before then.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Vision Quest (5.10d PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 20, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Great route!!! As George Lowe mentions we also noticed the tower block on top of pitch one has some play. We combined the last 2 pitches in one also because no anchor showed when leading the 3rd pitch. We summited the south tower & found one crappy bolt at the top of the King of Pain South summit tower. Nothing you would want to rap from.

I would not recommend rapping down this route. It only has 1 fixed drilled angle at the top of pitch 1 & 2. Also I believe it has lots of potential for ropes... more >>


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : Hyperbola (5.10a R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 23, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: I added Diff Ritchie in on the FFA of this route as he had also freed the first pitch of this route close to the same time period.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Iron Pony (5.11d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 22, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Hank, your age probably isn't the factor. Now not seeing the moves right off might be a possibility. \;o) Damnit, I can't read or even place RPs without glasses anymore!! Makes it hard to find those micro edges quick....

I wouldn't argue with anyone's assessment of 12a for this one. Hearing you feel this is 12a sure makes an old guy like me feel good, since I didn't think I could climb 12a anymore. I was just going along with the original rating, so I wouldn't look bad. It looks like... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Iron Pony (5.11d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 22, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Great route and after getting to the second bolt you do climb quite a bit on the right side of the arete. Essentially doing part of the crux of Pony Express with added hard climbing on up the arete. I thought clipping, I think, the third bolt was a bit cruxy. Fun Arete climbing!!


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Womb (5.11a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 22, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great route & probably the hardest free route on the Glass & probably the state when it was freed in the early '70s. I don't mean to take credit away from the first free ascentionests listed here and I am not one to normally quibble on route ascents, but when things are being historically recorded it seems right to get them as accurate as possible. I will also state that this occured over 30 years ago so my timeline memory may not be the most accurate.

This was freed very close to the... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Finger Crack (5.11a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 7, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Some folks probably won't like this route, or think it's classic, because it is flaring, awkward, greasy and a bit painful...

Did I scare you away?!

I gave it four stars, because I think it is a trad classic & typical for Lumpy. This route definitely should be done on lead to get the full Monty!!! It's 50 yds from the "old" Lumpy parking lot, so it is a great end of the day burn or harsh out of the car warm up. Long ago dubbed an 11a finger crack by a personal friend and bad ass climber name... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Kloeberdanz (5.11c R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 29, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: This one can be hard to decipher and that can make a big difference. I agree with Mike Storeim's comment that this route feels much harder today than it did in the mid 70s & 80s, and perhaps the crimper holds in the middle are not as positive as they used to be. But, for me, all routes feel harder now than they did back then. So, I'm not totally sure if it's the holds or just my advancing weight & declining strength. Any other Grey Hairs out there that have done this one lately care to comment... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Doub-Griffith (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 24, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: I think this is definitely one of the best and one of my favorite routes in Eldo!! Classic!!! I have always called combining Super Arete and this route with Mellow Yellow and with the 12 finish out the old A4 seam right of the normal finish on Mellow Yellow. The Astro Man of Eldorado... What a line and lots of great continuous climbing the whole way.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Wild Kingdom (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 24, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Very complimentary write up Richard. I just did this route the other day after not having done it in a long time. I forgot how cool this route is. This is a great Eldo route! Sporty for a sport route. Actually it is not really a sport route. It is supplemented with some trad pro which makes it more interesting than clipping only bolts and the bolts are certainly not at your waist when doing the crux climbing. This makes it a climb that leaves you feeling like you really did a lead. The climb i... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerohead (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 13, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: This route is a good addition as a way to finish Aerospace. I don't want to sound like I am bashing the route because the climbing is good & hard but in my opinion for a rating I think it is marginally 5.11 if 5.11 at all. For a rating comparison I don't think it comes close in comparison of difficulty to the lower crux moves on Aerospace which is rated within a letter grade of being the same. The climbing is a bit contrived as it basically forces a line in the more difficult area of the upper ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Scorpions (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 9, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: A worthy route and one of my favorite routes on Peanuts. Good climbing with a steep and pumpy crux. Doing this and linking it with Forbidden Planet on upper wall of Lower Peanuts makes for good outing on Lower Peanuts.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Curvaceous (5.11c/d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 9, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Just one more comment and I will leave it at that. I would say folks who seem to get defensive about an over the hill and elderly climbers opinion and post their comments as AC or "A Concerned User" seem insecure to me. The fact is 11c/d should be 11 c/d whether in Eldo, Rifle, Clear Creek, Yosemite, Canada or done in the '70s, '80s, '90s or the Millineum. That's the purpose of a standard rating system.

The way I voiced my opinion above, may have made some feel it was directed at them personal... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : Isis Buttress : Living Dead (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 9, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Good route, but as with most posts here, I would not agree with the rating. I can see a lot of people feel the first crux, which I believe was rated 10c in [Gillett's] guide is harder than the supposed 11b upper crux. I would almost agree. Lower crux is definitely more strenous & painful the upper crux is more technical but not as hard if you have good footwork & stay calm. To help with a consensus rating I would rate this climb 10+ or maybe 11-. If you think this is 11, you're really in for a... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : Isis Buttress : Dead Boy Direct (5.11+)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 9, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: This is another "Malcolm Daly "Lumpy ridge classic!! This is a great route!! Can't believe I've waited till I am "almost" to old, fat, and weak to climb it. For some beta, there is small but good pro leading up to the crux bulge. Can be a little strenous getting in. I remember using a blue TCU which seemed very good before executing what I thought was the crux. They say it's not good to visualize falling but, the fall would be very clean if taken. The most difficult technical move is a layback ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Between The Sheets (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 9, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Did this route yesterday with Richard Aschert and both of us agreed it is a great route. Also agreed the 11 c rating was a bit under what the route should be rated. To try and help with concensus on rating this route. For a onsight trad lead, we both agreed if we were to split the letter grades, it might be closer to 11d/12a [than] 11d/11c. But letter grades can be like splitting hairs. I prefer the the 11 minus, solid 11, or 11 plus rating system where I would have no problem calling this 11+.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Le Stat (5.11d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jun 15, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: First pitch is very hard for the grade. Not what you would expect for a Boulder Canyon 11d. This would be a hard on sight on less you were prepared or told what to expect. After failing first time up trying to move statically thru the crux. I moved left on the finger tip crack and dynoed for the horn with bad feet. Once executed it seemed not bad. Kind of a quick boulder problem move. Seemed hard the first time up but once I did it in retrospect it did not seem too bad. Perhaps that is the reas... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Consilience (5.11b/c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jun 15, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Very fun route and an interesting slab climb. D'Antonio is the FA Meister!! Thanks for this one Bob!

I was surprised to see so many excellent climbers rating this 11 and not even easy 11.

Maybe I am off here but it makes me think I was on the wrong route ...
To offer some benchmark comparisons for perspective.

> Crux of Aerospace in Eldo rated 11b,
> last Pitch of Doub Griffith rated 11b,
> 1st pitch of Athletes Feat rated 11a,
> 1st... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : West Overhang (5.11a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 8, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: I believe Andy Donson is correct in his statements on this route & the confusion about 11+. The original aid line of the West Face has been confused, by various guidebook authors with an 11+ variation up the North Face, done I heard by Randy Levitt but I am not sure of this, as Andy describes. The original aid line, of the West Face has never been freed by anyone I know of and would be quite an achievement due to the lack of holds and protection!! The West Face goes at 11a by traversing above th... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Curvaceous (5.11c/d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 7, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Boy this is a great route, but I can not believe the grade inflations on some of these sport routes these days. To rate this 11c/d is a hugh ego stroke. I believe this route would maybe be rated 10+ if done in the 80's. Good comparison route would be to go do Guenese in Eldorado. Guenese is rated 11a now, I believe Erickson rated 10+ when he freed it and that is with going thru the roof on the first pitch and not utilizing the cheater belay under the roof. This is an awesome route but some of th... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Hesitation Blues (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jul 26, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Great route, probably harder during the first ascent as the rock has sinced cleaned up from folks climbing it. I find the 11b rating off compared to some other 11b Veedauwoo climbs. Example would be if you compare this to one if it's neighbor climbs, Ghost Dance which is also rated 11b. I think you will find Ghost Dance substantailly harder.. Now if one and which one should have it's rating changed I will leave open to comment.

If you watch the rope drag you can lead this thing in one pitch to... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Spicoli (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jan 9, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: This is a good route. For an opinion on rating. I think the submitted rating of 11b is a bit low unless you have previous knowledge of the route. Routes should be rated for the on sight not after you know the moves & have been on them. I have seen several strong partners fully capable of flashing 11c end up not flashing this route. It seems to be hard for folks to see the correct moves on this first time up and if you are not strong melt down at the middle crux. But that's okay let's keep the st... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : Renaissance Wall : Renaissance Wall (5.12c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 25, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: I think this climb is awesome!! Although out of character for most Lumpy ridge climbs I think it is one of the best I have done at Lumpy. Like Randy says it should be done in 2 pitches. The second pitch when done combinig what people here are calling the 2nd a 3rd pitch makes for an incredible and sustained pitch of climbing. I could barely lift the rope to clip in at the end.

It is nice to be able to get off with one rope. So, Randy I would not recommend pulling the anchors you put in. Just n... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Zip Code (5.11-)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 4, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: After my experience on this route I can see why some would think it is hard and some would think it is easy. My partner gave me the wrong beta and told me to go up high with your right hand for a hold to do the crux. The discrepancy around the ratings I think depends on how you do the crux. I found this approach very difficult and eventually found a good, very positive, intermediate hidden edge lower in the crack/seam. If you miss the good hidden edge in the crack/seam and reach past it and up h... more >>


Page 5 of 13.  <<First   <Prev   3  4  5  6  7   Next>   Last>>