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Bob Rotert

Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Bob Rotert

Point Rank: # 2,322
Total Points: 232
Last Year: 28
Last 30 Days: 1
14 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has Bob Rotert been climbing?


All 362 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvements | Comments 112 | Posts 3 | Stars 101 | Ratings 128
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Contributed Comments


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Rifle Mountain State Park : West Side of the Canyon : Stone Free (WI5+) : Photo
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for your kind words, Dan. Much appreciated!

Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street South : Skinwalker (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: Like most all #2 friend, #1 Camalot size desert cracks. Personal hand size is really going to influence difficulty one direction or another. Just sayin .. Realize, most folks can be awesome at #2 friend size cracks if their hands fit in them. \;o)

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Wheeler-Newsome Wall : Wing Nut (5.11c) : Photo
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 13, 2013

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Comments: Thanks Brian, Love the photo !! Brings back memories from another life time. Sure miss Carruthers !!

Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Rice Krispies (5.10c R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: Kenny, was such a great personality and force on the climbing scene back then. He was a Stone mtn master.

Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crac... (5.9)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: I believe Jim McEver and I did the FA of this one. It was after a rainy day and Jim suggested it as a challenge. Thinking there was no way I was gonna make it up the thing in soaking wet conditions. Since I was young and wanted to make an impression I took the bait. It was soaking wet, Muddy , and Hairball when we did it I think @ 72. This was before I had EB's, if anyone knows what those are, and I was wearing PA's. I still remember the day and climb over 40 years ago now. Totally CLASSIC F... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : After The Gold Rush (5.12a PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Just saw this surfing MP from the couch. Starting to get back to climbing again after shoulder surgery this year. Hope I can get back to where I can get on this. Looks awesome! Nice job, guys!

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Never a Dull Moment (5.12b PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: Just ran across the comments on this one and had to pipe in as it brought back memories. The slab pitch is some tedious footwork and balance, helped by fingernails on micro-edges to just stay in balance. However,I always thought the crack was harder than the slab. Although the slab could be harder now due to degradation of the micro fingernail holds. It took me multiple attempts, with Maurice Reed, Jeff Achey, and others over several different days to finally get the crack on this clean in the... more >>

Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Amphitheater : The Open Book (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: For History on this FFA was 1978 or maybe 79, the FA by Guy was much earlier. Love seeing the pictures!!

Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southwest Corner : Boulder Problem in the Sky (5.11-)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jul 19, 2013

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Comments: One of my favorite routes in Cashiers. Rain was pouring down early in the day we did it. No bolts were placed at the first or second belay on the first ascent of this route. I remember being a bit terrified at this belay while Diff lead the moves off the ledge thinking if he fell we might both be going the distance. The commitment level was very high. Not uncommon for some routes back in those days. Fortunately he was calm and cool executing the moves without a hitch, elevating my already... more >>

Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Terrorvision (5.11 PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 24, 2013

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Comments: This is a classic that lived up to its name for me when I did it back in 1984. I had a very memorable and humbling incident on this route when My partner fell on the traverse. I had found no anchor at the end of my lead out of so I was only wedged into a firm stance in the water groove above. Unfortunately when she fell she pendulemed over the edge of the arÍte and swung out into free space. With no way to Lower her except into free space or pull her up and really no way to communicate over t... more >>

Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Medicine Man (5.12b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jul 25, 2012

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Comments: Very beautiful route, and I think it's one of the best in the Monument.

The crux pitch, #3 or #4, depending on how you do this, is a classic example of where individual climber hand size is going to push the grade one way or another. It will be much harder for folks with larger hands and would be much, much, easier for thinner hands. Like most desert splitters this size. The difficulty factor really changes depending on how well your hands fit the crack.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Climb Of The Century (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Apr 11, 2012

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Comments: If you have confidence in the gear or are able to get good gear in reasonably quickly, that helps with the difficulties of this route.

I can see the opinion of a rating rise or fall for the individual ascent depending on how well the leader gets the gear in and how much confidence they have in the gear placed. When led, the climb has a bit of gear, head, and pump factor that can add to the pure technical difficulty. The small cams you can get on this seem pretty good. Some people have total con... more >>

Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Pandora's Way (5.9)
By: Bob Rotert When: Apr 4, 2012

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Comments: I think a bolt may have been added to the first pitch of this. Originally the first pitch went up to a bit of a bowel for the belay. I believe it already had an old bolt in it left by some rappelling effort in the past. We were wondering what kind of trouble we were climbing into on this one so we named it Pandora's way.

It was the second of three new route's put up one 3 day Easter Weekend when Tom and I were in high school. 1973 I believe. The first was Electric Boobs, second this route and t... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Leviathan (5.11d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 10, 2011

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Comments: Thoughtful moves and balancy climbing. Although rated the same. I didn't think it compared in difficulty to Black Lagoon. Black Lagoon felt at least a letter grade or two harder to me. Maybe by just moving left a bit at the bolt for the crux it makes it easier? I found some small finger tip edges and I think ended up standing up on the good flat hold with my right foot and then doing a balancy foot shuffle to clip the next bolt. I remember very little for the hands once your standing on the fl... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Gill Crack (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 12, 2011

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Comments: I remember being up at Castle Rock alone one afternoon, it's the early eighties, I'm bouldering laps on The Gill Crack.

Alex Lowe shows up. "Damn, Bobby!" "You bouldering that thing?" he says.

Feeling good and a bit smug. "Yea" I say. It's not too bad as long as you get the top sequence of jams right. I give him the finishing right, left, right, jam sequence beta. This is so you end with right hand on the top hold and are able to reach out left with your left hand to Burnt Crack for the fini... more >>

Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Higher Calling (5.11d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 7, 2011

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Comments: Awesome route, Mark and Richard!! Thanks for all your hard work in developing this area. This is one of my favorite routes on the crag!! Superb, with great, continous climbing on every pitch. Doesn't get much better than this one up at Ra and one of the best sport routes in the front range.

IMHO the last pitch is the crux pitch. The sustained nature makes it harder than the second pitch to me. Make sure you depump from the second pitch before starting up this one. Holds may be good, except a... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Clever Lever (5.12a/b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jun 9, 2011

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Comments: I always liked this route. It's short but sweeet!! Amazing send by Greg Lowe. One of those stand out routes in difficulty for the time it was done.

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Higher Cathedral Rock : Perfect Vision (5.11d R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jun 3, 2011

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Comments: Did this one many years ago. Sept 97 I believe. However still remember it as being an amazing route.

Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : The Delicate Sound of Thund... (5.11a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Apr 20, 2011

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Comments: Daves & Marge, one of my favorite routes at Red Rocks! An awesome climb!

Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Lost Creek Canyon : Bighorn Buttress (5.10+ R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 16, 2011

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Comments: This route does has some very cool, heady, climbing. First pitch is not for the faint of heart. The bold moves over the bulge on the First pitch is definitely heads up climbing. And I didn't like the Star drive bolt below, protecting the run out 5.10 climbing over the bulge,on the first pitch. Your in for a possible long drop on it and if it failed you'd be in for a very long drop.

Second pitch route finding is a bit weird. You can go high or low near the finish around the buttress.

Overall,... more >>

Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Positive Vibrations (5.11a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jan 31, 2011

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Comments: Another Hulk classic. Amazing rock and amazing climbing. The crux pitch was stellar!!

Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Sunspot Dihedral (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jan 31, 2011

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Comments: Loved this climb. Every pitch was stellar. The topo ratings down play the sustained nature of the route. An alpine classic for sure!!

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Temporary Like Achilles (5.10b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 12, 2010

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Comments: Curious if anyone has some confirmed knowledge of other free ascents of the roof? Has anyone succeeded in freeing it after Ben Moon's FFA back in early '90s. It looks like one of the hardest routes in Eldo to me.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Hands In The Clouds (5.12a A0)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 12, 2010

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Comments: Just a correction to the write up above from Richard. I believe the Archilles roof was first freed by Ben Moon and not Jerry Moffat as written above. Maybe Moffat did it as well. I don't recall hearing of the roof being freed by anyone else, and I had heard some holds had snapped on previous attempts since Moon's ascent. Maybe some one else knows more about this. At any rate, most mortals will aid the roof to get to Hands in the Clouds.

Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress : The Bucket List (5.11a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Oct 3, 2010

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Comments: I visited this cliff for the first time last weekend and was really impressed with the great climbing here. We did this route, and it is indeed wild and awesome! One of the best on the cliff. I followed this one, and it felt a little harder than 11- to me. I like the Boulder Canyon comment Dougal posted above. \;o) This would probably be 11d in Boulder Canyon.

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