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Rock Climbing Photo: Bob Rotert

Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: Nov 16, 2015
Contact Bob Rotert

Point Rank: # 2,509
Total Points: 253
Last Year: 23
Last 30 Days: 0
19 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has Bob Rotert been climbing?


All 442 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 13 | Page Improvements | Comments 118 | Posts 3 | Stars 158 | Ratings 143
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Contributed Comments


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Northwest Corner (5.11a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: Did this today and found the top pin that protected the straight up thin crack version and has been there for 15 plus years is missing. I always thought it looked pretty solid but I see in a post above that it came out when some one was cleaning the pitch. I don't doubt that it has been fallin on many times in the past but over the years with freeze thaw these things can loosen .

This seemed to me, at the time, that it changes the route quite a bit from when the pin was there. I am in a climbi... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Fluorescent Gray (5.11c PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: This is such an awesome route! The bottom crack is burly, and the upper slab climbing is continuous thought provoking and exciting. One of the best in the Flatirons and not to missed if you're up for it. Kudos to Brett and Tim for putting up this masterpiece.

For gear: blue 3, red 1, and purple Camalots; green Alien; blue, yellow Metolius TCU and 1 red C3.

Great write up by Steve.

Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress : The Bucket List (5.11a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: Revisited and led this today. Maybe some thing has changed since the FA put an 11a rating on it? Really cool climbing! Seemed definitely harder than 11a. Also, you have to do a solid 11 pitch to get to it so don't know how it comes in at 11- to begin with. Amazing climbing up through the stepped roofs.

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Across from The Bihedral ak... : Lightning Strike (5.11)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 9, 2014

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Comments: Seem like pretty solid 5.11 not using the undercling or the arĂȘte .

Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Lady Fingers (5.10b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: Thought this was very good. Slabbing to a neat finger tip lieback corner. Third or fourth bolt?, I think, was placed a little higher than would have been optimal. The Corner felt harder than 5.10 to us. We did The Bends afterwards and thought this route was harder.

Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : The Bends (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: Great route, but we didn't feel it was any where close to 11c. Might be 11-. We did Lady Fingers prior to doing this route, and it felt harder. Would say that route is underrated, and this one over. Bolts are a little awkward to clip in the groove. Nicely featured rock makes for good face climbing after the groove. Don't let the 5.11 grade keep you from getting on this one.

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : The Central Scrutinizer (5.11)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jul 25, 2014

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Comments: Very cool route, Sam. What a contrast of crack climbing to hard face climbing.

Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : The Spider's Den : Spiders and Snakes (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 7, 2014

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Comments: Love the pump this route gives. Probably several ways to climb this. You can get a bit of a rest in the groove off left at the second bolt. It may be easier and tempting to sneak off right for a rest higher on a ledge that comes in from the right 2/3rds of the way up. Stay on track for the full value. Pumpy and fun! Seemed like solid to upper 11 range was about right for the way we did it. Could be harder if you stay right of the first few bolts and don't move left and up the groove.

Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Rock Warrior (5.10b R) : Photo
By: Bob Rotert When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: DEE da MAN!!! Love it, great shot !!

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Rifle Mountain State Park : West Side of the Canyon : Stone Free (WI5+) : Photo
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for your kind words, Dan. Much appreciated!
Something is still getting hit hard, and I think it's me!!

Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street South : Skinwalker (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: Like most all #2 friend, #1 Camalot size desert cracks. Personal hand size is really going to influence difficulty one direction or another. Just sayin .. Realize, most folks can be awesome at #2 friend size cracks if their hands fit in them. \;o)

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Wheeler-Newsome Wall : Wing Nut (5.11c) : Photo
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 13, 2013

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Comments: Thanks Brian, Love the photo !! Brings back memories from another life time. Sure miss Carruthers !!

Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Rice Krispies (5.10c R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: Kenny, was such a great personality and force on the climbing scene back then. He was a Stone mtn master.

Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crac... (5.9)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: I believe Jim McEver and I did the FA of this one. It was after a rainy day and Jim suggested it as a challenge. Thinking there was no way I was gonna make it up the thing in soaking wet conditions. Since I was young and wanted to make an impression I took the bait. It was soaking wet, Muddy , and Hairball when we did it I think @ 72. This was before I had EB's, if anyone knows what those are, and I was wearing PA's. I still remember the day and climb over 40 years ago now. Totally CLASSIC F... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : After The Gold Rush (5.12a PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Just saw this surfing MP from the couch. Starting to get back to climbing again after shoulder surgery this year. Hope I can get back to where I can get on this. Looks awesome! Nice job, guys!

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Never a Dull Moment (5.12b PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: Just ran across the comments on this one and had to pipe in as it brought back memories. The slab pitch is some tedious footwork and balance, helped by fingernails on micro-edges to just stay in balance. However,I always thought the crack was harder than the slab. Although the slab could be harder now due to degradation of the micro fingernail holds. It took me multiple attempts, with Maurice Reed, Jeff Achey, and others over several different days to finally get the crack on this clean in the... more >>

Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Amphitheater : The Open Book (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: For History on this FFA was 1978 or maybe 79, the FA by Guy was much earlier. Love seeing the pictures!!

Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southwest Corner : Boulder Problem in the Sky (5.11-)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jul 19, 2013

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Comments: One of my favorite routes in Cashiers. Rain was pouring down early in the day we did it. No bolts were placed at the first or second belay on the first ascent of this route. I remember being a bit terrified at this belay while Diff lead the moves off the ledge thinking if he fell we might both be going the distance. The commitment level was very high. Not uncommon for some routes back in those days. Fortunately he was calm and cool executing the moves without a hitch, elevating my already... more >>

Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Terrorvision (5.11 PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Feb 24, 2013

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Comments: This is a classic that lived up to its name for me when I did it back in 1984. I had a very memorable and humbling incident on this route when My partner fell on the traverse. I had found no anchor at the end of my lead out of so I was only wedged into a firm stance in the water groove above. Unfortunately when she fell she pendulemed over the edge of the arĂȘte and swung out into free space. With no way to Lower her except into free space or pull her up and really no way to communicate over ... more >>

Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Medicine Man (5.12b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jul 25, 2012

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Comments: Very beautiful route, and I think it's one of the best in the Monument.

The crux pitch, #3 or #4, depending on how you do this, is a classic example of where individual climber hand size is going to push the grade one way or another. It will be much harder for folks with larger hands and would be much, much, easier for thinner hands. Like most desert splitters this size. The difficulty factor really changes depending on how well your hands fit the crack.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Climb Of The Century (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: Apr 11, 2012

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Comments: If you have confidence in the gear or are able to get good gear in reasonably quickly, that helps with the difficulties of this route.

I can see the opinion of a rating rise or fall for the individual ascent depending on how well the leader gets the gear in and how much confidence they have in the gear placed. When led, the climb has a bit of gear, head, and pump factor that can add to the pure technical difficulty. The small cams you can get on this seem pretty good. Some people have total con... more >>

Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Pandora's Way (5.9)
By: Bob Rotert When: Apr 4, 2012

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Comments: I think a bolt may have been added to the first pitch of this. Originally the first pitch went up to a bit of a bowel for the belay. I believe it already had an old bolt in it left by some rappelling effort in the past. We were wondering what kind of trouble we were climbing into on this one so we named it Pandora's way.

It was the second of three new route's put up one 3 day Easter Weekend when Tom and I were in high school. 1973 I believe. The first was Electric Boobs, second this route and t... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Leviathan (5.11d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 10, 2011

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Comments: Thoughtful moves and balancy climbing. Although rated the same. I didn't think it compared in difficulty to Black Lagoon. Black Lagoon felt at least a letter grade or two harder to me. Maybe by just moving left a bit at the bolt for the crux it makes it easier? I found some small finger tip edges and I think ended up standing up on the good flat hold with my right foot and then doing a balancy foot shuffle to clip the next bolt. I remember very little for the hands once your standing on the fl... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Gill Crack (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 12, 2011

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Comments: I remember being up at Castle Rock alone one afternoon, it's the early eighties, I'm bouldering laps on The Gill Crack.

Alex Lowe shows up. "Damn, Bobby!" "You bouldering that thing?" he says.

Feeling good and a bit smug. "Yea" I say. It's not too bad as long as you get the top sequence of jams right. I give him the finishing right, left, right, jam sequence beta. This is so you end with right hand on the top hold and are able to reach out left with your left hand to Burnt Crack for the fini... more >>

Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Higher Calling (5.11d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 7, 2011

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Comments: Awesome route, Mark and Richard!! Thanks for all your hard work in developing this area. This is one of my favorite routes on the crag!! Superb, with great, continous climbing on every pitch. Doesn't get much better than this one up at Ra and one of the best sport routes in the front range.

IMHO the last pitch is the crux pitch. The sustained nature makes it harder than the second pitch to me. Make sure you depump from the second pitch before starting up this one. Holds may be good, except a... more >>

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