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Member Since: Dec 1, 2001
Last Visit: Jul 13, 2014
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Point Rank: # 226
Total Points: 2,317
Last Year: 241
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 992 | Routes 134 | Areas 4 | Photos 154 | Page Improvments | Comments 147 | Posts 8 | Stars 374 | Ratings 171
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Hidden Slab : Under the Radar (5.8)
By: Bob Gaines When: Mar 22, 2014

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Comments: Hi Susan. The reason for the glue-in anchor bolts: the rock is really bad at the spot I wanted the anchor. After I hand-drilled the holes I could slip the bolts in and out with my fingers....the glue-ins solved the problem, and they seem to be holding up well.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Reggie Dome : Fresh Squeezed (5.10a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Mar 12, 2014

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Comments: I wouldn't call the holds at the top "jugs"

C Miller's route description of "incut patina edges" is more accurate, as these holds are edges less than an inch wide.

Maybe you could call them "finger jugs"


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Band Saw (5.10c R)
By: Bob Gaines When: Feb 13, 2014

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Comments: Led it onsight back in the day (1980's). I remember the scariest part was a cruel surprise when I got to the last bolt, a 1/4 inch spinner hanging over 1/2 way out of it's hole, and I wasn't sure how hard the rest of the grainy slab was.

After we put up Sexy Grandma the route became very popular to TR off the Sexy Grandma anchor, and the graininess is gone. Even though now I have it ruthlessly wired, don't think I'll be leading this one unless someone retros a bolt for the start. Maybe ask per... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : Sphinx Rock : Cleopatra (5.11b)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 29, 2014

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Comments: I went back recently and led this route for the second time, 24 years after the first ascent!

The bolts are in great shape, but you'll probably want a piece at the start (I used a #3 camalot) to protect the moves getting up to the first bolt, which consists of liebacking then standing up on a fragile flake to the clip the first bolt. You can get a CD behind this flake, but it can't be trusted 'cause the flake is wafer thin. It's about 5.6 R to stand up on the flake. I wouldn't call it a ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Left Side : Just Another Crack from LA (5.9)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: The start is what makes this route funky. Without a stack of crash pads and a couple of spotters, if you blow the opening face moves (5.9 R) chances are you'll get hurt bad due to the jumble of jagged blocks for the landing.

You can clip the first bolt of LA Woman and traverse right over to the big flake for a safer start with adequate pro. From the flake climb a few slab moves (5.7 PG) to reach a long vertical crack. Once you get to the crack the pro is good, with some nice jamming ne... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Anasazi Wall : Mushroom Crack (5.10b)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 7, 2014

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Comments: I think left side in is the way to go.

No easy way to do it....pure offwidth crux!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : Cap Rock : ... : Black Ice (5.10b)
By: Bob Gaines When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: The old 1/4 inch bolt has been replaced.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Elijah's Coming (5.10b X)
By: Bob Gaines When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: Actually, the route name is Elijah's Coming, named to commemorate the upcoming birth of my partner Bruce's son Elijah.

The second pitch was originally led with no bolts (5.8 X). The 2 bolts were added later by my partner Bruce with my permission, to make for a fun and safe pitch.

When I led the first pitch I placed a piece high in the Mike's Books crack (5.10b R).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Rattlesnake Buttress : ... : Photo
By: Bob Gaines When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: It's just you...


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : Jonah (5.10c)
By: Bob Gaines When: Oct 3, 2013

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Comments: Hi Tom. Great to have a post from you! I think that the pin on the last pitch was replaced with a bolt some years ago, probably when the original bolts were replaced.

In my new guidebook I described it as "One of America's most difficult rock climbs when first climbed in 1964" and it remains a great challenge to this day. One of my favorites at Tahquitz.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : King Otto's Castle : Casino Royale (5.11a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jul 19, 2013

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Comments: Good work Shelby and KP!!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Astroturf (5.10d R)
By: Bob Gaines When: Mar 21, 2013

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Comments: Hey Josh,

I posted some pictures of Peter making the move up to the flake. The .75 camalot is "less than bomber" because of the dubious rock, although just clipping into it might have a nerve calming effect when that far out from the bolt. I think the way to go is to put the cam in after you grab the flake.

I remember discussing with Peter that at least for the last move (grabbing the flake) you're going off a very solid, incut handhold, so at least you don't have to worry about the h... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Astroturf (5.10d R)
By: Bob Gaines When: Mar 20, 2013

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Comments: Nice story Josh!

You wouldn't want to fall from the last move to the flake....you'd probably go 60 feet with rope stretch. That's why it gets an R rating.

If you look at the photo of Peter leading up to the flake, if you climb straight up above where he is, then move left to the flake, the rock is solid, with good incut holds.

It's easy to get suckered into standing on that ledge just to his left, but that's a harder way to go.

The top half of Solid Gold's first pitch has the same bird shit ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : Pet Sounds (5.5 R)
By: Bob Gaines When: Mar 11, 2013

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Comments: called Pet Sounds 5.5 R

FA: Bob Gaines, Feb., 1996.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : Noriega Does Panama (5.10a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Mar 1, 2013

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Comments: This has become one of my favorite friction slabs in Indian Cove. Although short, it's very sustained with some pure smearing required. The graininess is long gone.

It has been retro bolted by members of the first ascent team and now has 5 bolts, making it a safe and sane lead, with the bolts closely spaced enough to be considered a sport climb. Plus you can use the 2-bolt belay/rappel anchor at the top of Panama Canal.

Gets shade in the afternoon. Two out of five stars.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles in the Sky : Dolphin (5.7)
By: Bob Gaines When: Feb 18, 2013

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Comments: Stemmed up the entire corner on TR. It's about 5.10b when done this way.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Grey Giant : Hyperion (5.11d) : Photo
By: Bob Gaines When: Feb 6, 2013

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Comments: They were tennis shoes called 'scats' and they smeared better than EBS....before the sticky rubber revolution.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Hunk : Little Hunk - NE Face : ... : New Deal (5.14a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: I belayed Scott when he sent that route, on a Superbowl Sunday. It was quite impressive.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : King Otto's Castle : Casino Royale (5.11a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: Don't think I've ever seen a route get the full spectrum from four stars to a "bomb" rating.

I guess either way you look at it, this route is "da bomb!"

Still one of my favorites in the Indian Cove Campground- fun to toprope, but a demanding lead.

Those chains at the top anchor are getting very rusty....time to fix up that anchor.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Hidden Slab : Rodeo Doggie (5.10)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 9, 2013

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Comments: "This is the second to the right of four bolted lines on Hidden Wall"

It's the third from the left.....or second from the right.

The crux overlap is tricky, but very well-protected, with the bolt above your waist when you do the move. Above that it's about 5.6 to the top.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Courthouse Formation : Unforgiven (5.12a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 7, 2013

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Comments: Yep. The Eastwood film had just come out a few years prior. A double-entendre.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Super Heros Wall : Captain Kangaroo (5.9)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 6, 2013

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Comments: FA: Bob Gaines, May, 2002.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Courthouse Formation : Unforgiven (5.12a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 3, 2013

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Comments: Back in the bolt war days.....when Sutton's landlord found out he had rap bolted the route, his landlord kicked him out of the room he was renting. "I can't live with a rap bolter" the landlord told me, and Sutton went unforgiven.

In Contempt was done ground-up BTW.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : The Chauvinist (5.8)
By: Bob Gaines When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: That's pitch 2 of the Feminist (5.11-) done by Erik Roed a few years ago. It's located between The Heathen and The Chauvanist, and joins The Heathen's third pitch at its last bolt (5 bolts total) ending at The Heathen's bolt anchor. (100 ft rap to Ski Tarcks/Chavanist anchor.)


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : ... : Photo
By: Bob Gaines When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: Hi Pam,

That looks like Super Pooper.


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