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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Astroturf (5.10d R)
By: Bob Gaines When: Mar 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Josh,
I posted some pictures of Peter making the move up to the flake. The .75 camalot is "less than bomber" because of the dubious rock, although just clipping into it might have a nerve calming effect when that far out from the bolt. I think the way to go is to put the cam in after you grab the flake.
I remember discussing with Peter that at least for the last move (grabbing the flake) you're going off a very solid, incut handhold, so at least you don't have to worry about the h... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Astroturf (5.10d R)
By: Bob Gaines When: Mar 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice story Josh!
You wouldn't want to fall from the last move to the flake....you'd probably go 60 feet with rope stretch. That's why it gets an R rating.
If you look at the photo of Peter leading up to the flake, if you climb straight up above where he is, then move left to the flake, the rock is solid, with good incut holds.
It's easy to get suckered into standing on that ledge just to his left, but that's a harder way to go.
The top half of Solid Gold's first pitch has the same bird shit ... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : Pet Sounds (5.5 R)
By: Bob Gaines When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: called Pet Sounds 5.5 R
FA: Bob Gaines, Feb., 1996.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : Noriega Does Panama (5.10a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Mar 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This has become one of my favorite friction slabs in Indian Cove. Although short, it's very sustained with some pure smearing required. The graininess is long gone.
It has been retro bolted by members of the first ascent team and now has 5 bolts, making it a safe and sane lead, with the bolts closely spaced enough to be considered a sport climb. Plus you can use the 2-bolt belay/rappel anchor at the top of Panama Canal.
Gets shade in the afternoon. Two out of five stars.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles in the Sky : Dolphin (5.7)
By: Bob Gaines When: Feb 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stemmed up the entire corner on TR. It's about 5.10b when done this way.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Grey Giant : Hyperion (5.11d) : Photo
By: Bob Gaines When: Feb 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: They were tennis shoes called 'scats' and they smeared better than EBS....before the sticky rubber revoulution.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Hunk : Little Hunk - NE Face : ... : New Deal (5.14a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I belayed Scott when he sent that route, on a Superbowl Sunday. It was quite impressive.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : King Otto's Castle : Casino Royale (5.11a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't think I've ever seen a route get the full spectrum from four stars to a "bomb" rating.
I guess either way you look at it, this route is "da bomb!"
Still one of my favorites in the Indian Cove Campground- fun to toprope, but a demanding lead.
Those chains at the top anchor are getting very rusty....time to fix up that anchor.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Hidden Slab : Rodeo Doggie (5.10)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: "This is the second to the right of four bolted lines on Hidden Wall"
It's the third from the left.....or second from the right.
The crux overlap is tricky, but very well-protected, with the bolt above your waist when you do the move. Above that it's about 5.6 to the top.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Courthouse Formation : Unforgiven (5.12a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep. The Eastwood film had just come out a few years prior. A double-entendre.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Super Heros Wall : Captain Kangaroo (5.9)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Bob Gaines, May, 2002.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Courthouse Formation : Unforgiven (5.12a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Back in the bolt war days.....when Sutton's landlord found out he had rap bolted the route, his landlord kicked him out of the room he was renting. "I can't live with a rap bolter" the landlord told me, and Sutton went unforgiven.
In Contempt was done ground-up BTW.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : The Chauvinist (5.8)
By: Bob Gaines When: Oct 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's pitch 2 of the Feminist (5.11-) done by Erik Roed a few years ago. It's located between The Heathen and The Chauvanist, and joins The Heathen's third pitch at its last bolt (5 bolts total) ending at The Heathen's bolt anchor. (100 ft rap to Ski Tarcks/Chavanist anchor.)
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : ... : Photo
By: Bob Gaines When: Oct 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Pam,
That looks like Super Pooper.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Oyster Bar Area : Target Rock : ... : Photo
By: Bob Gaines When: Jun 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice Lead!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - West Face : Walkway (5.4 PG13)
By: Bob Gaines When: Apr 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The start might be a little dicey in flip flops.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : Monaco (5.11b)
By: Bob Gaines When: Apr 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first ascent was done in April 1989, ground up, with hooks and a power drill (back in the day when it was legal to use a power drill).
There was a group of Marines training on the Feudal Wall that day and two of them had to be EVACed via ambulance after leader falls.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : The Drawbridge (5.8+)
By: Bob Gaines When: Apr 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ooops.... thanks Todd. I'll go with The Drawbridge, 5.8+. It would be a fun lead with two bolts...(hint)
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Gunslinger (5.12a/b)
By: Bob Gaines When: Mar 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rob, Four stars for you on the new Bouldering Guidebook!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Gunslinger (5.12a/b)
By: Bob Gaines When: Mar 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: No permit is required to replace existing bolts in wilderness as long as you hand drill them.
A "special permit" is required to place new bolts in wilderness, but since the permit process does not exist, this is the Park Service's way of saying No, but in a nice way. Theoretically, the Superintendent could approve a new bolt placement.
A special use permit is required to use a power drill in NON- WILDERNESS to replace existing bolts. Kevin Powell has been one person ... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Gunslinger (5.12a/b)
By: Bob Gaines When: Mar 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Muff. I haven't replaced that anchor yet, so if you're up for it- go for it! It's a wild route that deserves more traffic. Let me know how it goes- hope you send it!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Upper Right Ski Track (5.3)
By: Bob Gaines When: Feb 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led that upper face when I did the FA of Trapeze center. It's about 5.6 R.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Hunk : Little Hunk - NE Face : ... : Photo
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's a rough topo from my Best Climbs Joshua Tree book- those routes didn't make the cut.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : Alice Rock : Black Rabbit (5.10a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Todd, for authorizing that, and thanks to the bolt replacers for their hard work and effort....it's not exactly the easiest place to get to. The new anchor is a definite upgrade. I remember leading the climb, and downclimbing 15 feet down the backside to get solid gear to rig a TR.
It's a rarely visited spot with 4 great climbs, and the new bolts and anchor are a nice upgrade by experienced locals who know what they're doing and who have devoted much time and energy into replacing hundre... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Jimmy Cliff : Jimmy Cliff - West Face : The Balcony (5.11b)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route gets progressively more difficult as you ascend. On the topo I drew after the FA: (6 bolts) 5.10- above the third bolt,5.10- above the fourth bolt, 5.10+ above the fifth bolt, and 5.11b above the last (sixth) bolt to the anchor.
Lower-off anchor 60 feet
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