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Location: OR : North Eastern Oregon : Spring Mountain : Face the Facts (5.9)
By: bob branscomb When: Jan 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: First ascent around 1985 by Bob Branscomb, Kristi Stouffer, Jack Kay and Linda Hall.
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Location: WY : Cody : South Fork Shoshone (Ice) : The Main Vein (WI4 PG13)
By: bob branscomb When: Jan 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this puppy with Mark Watkins on 1/20/13. First pitch not in and had to do some interesting bouldering around the first two chockstones lower down. The upper ice pitches are all in thickly but the low angle areas between them are hard snow instead of ice. Makes for fast work between pitches kicking up snow.
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : The Sanctuary (of Eternal B... : Obscured By Cloud (5.10a)
By: bob branscomb When: Sep 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: On 9/9/12 Mark Watkins demonstrated his remarkable patience while I linked Obscured and Nimbus (the extension up the steep wall above the first anchor) in one 30m pitch. I still think it is 10b. Linking them makes for a great long pitch with a lot of 5.10 in it. Need 16 clips and 2 single length runners (to minimize rope drag over the Nimbus roof). Still have the A0 pull on the bolt just past the first anchor but that doesn't detract from this climbs' high quality.
Admittedly, I have an eg... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Wright's Lake : Main Wall : The Prow (5.10a R)
By: bob branscomb When: Jun 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I confess that I placed that poor 1/4" bolt up there around 1985/86. Kristi Stouffer and I gave it a try. That was the only bolt I had with me that day and above there gave me the heebie-geebies without have one or two more to throw in. It was a ground up attempt, no previewing and we never got back to try it again. I only placed that one bolt. I don't know who did the lower two, but there was nothing there when we gave it a go.
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Fairfield Hill : Fairfield West : Take Some Petrol, Darling (5.8)
By: bob branscomb When: May 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA 2010 Bob Branscomb/Kristi Stouffer
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Fairfield Hill : Fairfield West : Hand on the Torch (5.10a/b)
By: bob branscomb When: May 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA 2010 Bob Branscomb/Kristi Stouffer
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Location: WY : Sweetwater Rocks : Lankin Dome : Venus and Mars (5.9)
By: bob branscomb When: Feb 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ed DeLong and I placed a second bolt in the first belay and another one in the third belay a couple of years ago, so those belays have double bolt (3/8") anchors.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Loon Lake : Looney Tunes : White Corner (5.7)
By: bob branscomb When: Jan 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA 1980 by Don Garrett and Kim Treadaway.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Loon Lake : Looney Tunes : Anvil of the Sun (5.10c)
By: bob branscomb When: Jan 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA 1990 by Bob Branscomb and Kristi Stouffer.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Loon Lake : Photo
By: bob branscomb When: Jan 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: From Climbing Guide to the Crystal Basin by Bob Branscomb, 1992.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Loon Lake : Photo
By: bob branscomb When: Jan 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: From Climbing Guide to the Crystal Basin by Bob Branscomb, 1992.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Loon Lake : Photo
By: bob branscomb When: Jan 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: From Climbing Guide to the Crystal Basin by Bob Branscomb. 1992.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Loon Lake
By: bob branscomb When: Jan 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Take a look at the center 'dome' in the background of the "Offwidth/chimney splitter" photo (Shoreline Cliffband section of this). In the 1980s Don Garrett, Kristi Stouffer and I put up 3 routes on the upper slabs and 3 routes on the smaller cliff below the slabs, just above the lake. We called the area Rubicon Dome. I'll dig out the Crystal Basin guide I used to publish and post up the topos here.
We used to boulder around up there but can't really remember anything specific about that. S... more >>
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Fairfield Hill : Fairfield West : Scenic Cruise (5.8)
By: bob branscomb When: Jan 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Bob Branscomb/Mark Watkins/JD January 2012
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Fairfield Hill : Fairfield West : Sugar Mountain (5.8)
By: bob branscomb When: Jan 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Bob Branscomb/Mark Vogel December 2011
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Location: WY : Cody : South Fork Shoshone (Ice) : Smooth Emerald Milkshake (WI4)
By: bob branscomb When: Nov 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route to be very aware of avalanche conditions on. Notice the extensive accumulation basins at the head of this drainage. Notice the large amount of avalanche debris at the bottom. Notice the way the trees are destroyed in the drainage. Just saying, be careful on this route. More than most in the S Fork, this one has possible significant risk to consider. I think early in the season (Vogel and I did it 11/26/11) before there is much accumulation in the high basins is the safest.
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Location: OR : North Eastern Oregon : Spring Mountain : Bat Crack (5.6)
By: bob branscomb When: Oct 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA around 1984 by Bob Branscomb, Kristi Stouffer, Jack Kay and Linda Hall. We went left around the roof and put an anchor out there to rappel.
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Haystack Mountain : Railroad Tracks (5.8)
By: bob branscomb When: Sep 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I third the last two comments about pitch length. Expect long pitches and usual alpine vegys. I thought this was a pretty nice route, actually, good fun and the cruxes are interesting.
Protection is quite good. It takes stoppers like crazy. You can sew it up with two sets of stoppers, a couple of larger C3s and a set of C4s to #4 (would do fine to a #3).
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Lady Jessica's Rock : Tommy Knocker (5.10a)
By: bob branscomb When: Jun 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I rather liked this short route. It's pretty clean and the finish gives it some style.
There is a route to the left of this one that is real nice too. It's about 5 bolts and an anchor and runs around 5.8.
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Sandstone Buttress : Sentinal Chimney (5.7)
By: bob branscomb When: Mar 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this climb a couple of days ago for the first time since around 1995. Geez, who put in all those fucking bolts? I suspect it was those NOLS weenies.
Anyway, this is a fun climb. The stem out of the cave thing on the second pitch is pretty cool. Take a #4 camalot and really sew it up.
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Location: WY : Cody : South Fork Shoshone (Ice) : Sendero Illuminoso (WI4)
By: bob branscomb When: Feb 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can continue up the chimney above the 1st pitch for a couple of steep, short steps, about 120m more with much snow. That's as far as I've gone. It's okay for easy mileage, but pretty anticlimatic after that wonderful first pitch.
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Fairfield Hill : Fairfield East : L. L. and L. (5.8)
By: bob branscomb When: Jan 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: L L and L is an abbreviation for Lewd, Lecherous and Lascivious, reflecting Ed's view of the morons he had to work with in his job at the time.
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Fairfield Hill
By: bob branscomb When: Nov 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: My first reaction to Dano was: wow, I want some of what you're smoking, dude.
But, upon reflection, since no one was there at the inception of said pockets, clams, acid water, gravity vortexes: all interesting theories! The gravity vortex theory has way more pizazz than dull clams or acid water. I like the idea that this cool physical force was at work, buzzing away in there under the sea. Yea, I like it!
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Canary (5.8)
By: bob branscomb When: Nov 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was one of my first serious leads in 1973. I was so psyched afterwards I couldn't believe it. The guy who followed me was from Homer, AK. Big strong guy, great man. He hadn't climbed much and he was so freaked on the crux that he just did pull ups up the damned thing, his feet thrashing in the breeze. Great climb.
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Location: AK : Southeastern Alaska/Coastal... : Harriet Hunt
By: bob branscomb When: Nov 3, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: That rock going to Harriett Hunt is not far up the road from the junction for Brown Mtn. It's on the left side of the road going up, behind a lot of new growth, have to watch for it. There was a turn out there to park. It is a nice little rock.
There was another rock near the end of the south road from Ketchikan, at the end of the pavement going to the old cannery at the end. Had some bolts on it. Can't remember how hard.
We did some ice climbing in a quarry on the North road. It was on ... more >>
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