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Member Since: Aug 5, 2010
Last Visit: Sep 17, 2014
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Point Rank: # 2,016
Total Points: 289
Last Year: 42
Last 30 Days: 0
10 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bob Banks been climbing?










Contributions


All 167 | Routes 5 | Areas 1 | Photos 23 | Page Improvements | Comments 109 | Posts 6 | Stars 23 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Bitch Free Zone (5.11a/b)
By: Bob Banks When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: "I think no matter how we climbed the line or what we called it people would still complain."

That speaks volumes.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Stolen From Mike (5.9+) : Photo
By: Bob Banks When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: Best thing I've seen in ages. Pure awesomeness.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Bitch Free Zone (5.11a/b)
By: Bob Banks When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: Climbing is filled with unsavory/offensive/dumb names. In all the ninnying about the name, something of actual relevance has been glossed over (emphasis mine, as per usual):

"The route was cleaned and worked on top rope and then bolted on lead."

Huh?

"new route is open but needs a lot more cleaning.Eric free climbed on lead right after we spent 4 or 5 hours bolting up the head wall."

Again, huh?

If you're going to drop a rope down and clean/wo... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Gyroscope (V8)
By: Bob Banks When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: I don't even recognize that dude.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : 911 (V8)
By: Bob Banks When: Jul 13, 2014

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Comments: It's funny how this one seems to have become a pretty popular problem, as I never really gave it that much thought.

This obvious sit-start to Slope-a-Dope was first done by a Swiss crankenfrank named Mike Tscharner who stayed with us for a while. He named it 911 because that was the address of the house that we lived in after we got booted from The Castle. He'd heard some crazy stories about our lifestyle back then (from other mutual Swiss friends), and I distinctly r... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Dissing Euros (V6)
By: Bob Banks When: Jul 13, 2014

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Comments: No idea about Tank Murdock Sean. I can barely even remember what it looks like.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Gyroscope (V8)
By: Bob Banks When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: gyroscope
.

Gyroscope, an all-time favorite. The Pine Mountain classic boulder problem with the legendary Ratso spot.

This one's for Steve and Phil.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Dissing Euros (V6)
By: Bob Banks When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: Hey Sean, would be interested to know which left-hand start hold you normally used, since it obviously isn't the blocky undercling I always used?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor
By: Bob Banks When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Yes, no doubt The Brickyard is actually 'less' fully realized than before the Gap Fire. It's so overgrown you can barely get to The Far Left Area or The HST problems, all good stuff that used to be on the circuit, now never gets climbed. Every time I walk down there I miss the old trail. C'est la vie.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor
By: Bob Banks When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Sorry if you wrote that article Grover, but that magazine (and the article) is wank. I hadn't seen a California Climber since the first crappy issue and had forgotten about it until now. Hasn't gotten any better. Had the author visited The Tor more than once? He couldn't pick up a guidebook, or use Google to find out how to spell Phil's name? "Anonymous locals?" (all of whom have names and are easily found in at least two guidebooks). Can be climbed in harsh winter conditions"? Ummm...huh... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Dissing Euros (V6)
By: Bob Banks When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: The left hand start hold used to be a pretty good block/undercling that broke off a few years ago. A bit of it is still there, but nothing like the original. The original right hand broke off also, as discussed up the thread. Found some video of me in my younger years making it look fairly easy. No doubt I couldn't pull my ass off the ground these days.

Dissing Euros
.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Clawing at the Walls (V7)
By: Bob Banks When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: I don't know that it's "off", but you certainly haven't done Clawing At The Walls if you use it.

Regardless, I saw your sequence picture Tim...ok, the shirt is a little stylish, but the shorts don't make the cut. See the Edwards and Crozier photos for proper ascent attire. Buck-up and send like a man, sans the homo-jug.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Welcome to the Darkside (V11)
By: Bob Banks When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: I made my once every few years trip to Pine Mountain this last weekend and managed to get a tour of some of the north-side bouldering from "Trad-Bob".

I have to say that this is a STELLAR, STELLAR boulder problem. This is so good it makes me want to get fit again. Well done. Would be interested to know about the line to the right as well...looks like it has a scary big dyno finish? Super rad line as well. Great find Sean et. al.!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Pretzel Logic (V7-8)
By: Bob Banks When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: I remember asking Wills about this problem long ago. He began by saying, "First: dig a hole in the dirt so you can start it." Classic Wills humor.

I always thought it was a bloody hard move.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Photo
By: Bob Banks When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: Whoever thought it was a good idea to chalk graffiti a "cock and balls" needs to be hit in the head with the business end of a pipe wrench. Kooks.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Chunks O' Flesh (V1)
By: Bob Banks When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: It should be noted that the name is "Chunks O' Flesh".


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Economique (5.10a) : Photo
By: Bob Banks When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: "Traumatic Brain Injury is a very serious condition."

Best thing I've read on this site in quite a while.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Ghost Town (a.k.a. winderme... : TallWall Boulder (V6-7)
By: Bob Banks When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: Me and Russel Erickson did half-hearted attempts to clean this (and others in the area) up in the mid 90s. There was tons of oak and moss. Never went back after a couple trips, hence why the area just got a glancing mention in O11. My guess is Joel and/or Kelly came along shortly after and did real cleaning. I was a little lazy back then. Still am really.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Unknown (V7)
By: Bob Banks When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: Andy's correct. I don't remember it being way, way harder than V7 though. I also don't remember doing it, or who did it first, or why it didn't get a name. So I guess I don't remember much. I do remember cleaning out the poison oak at the base (there used to be a GIANT plant) and scrubbing moss off the face to find a series of crappy holds. Looks like she could use another scrubbing.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery
By: Bob Banks When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: I dunno about that Shore.

You're at the Fiesta 5 with 12 dollars in your pocket. There are two movies showing, both starring Halle Berry and Charlize Theron. One is called Scorpion, the other is The Creamery.

I know which one I'm buying popcorn for.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Upper Foothill (The Hideout... : Biome (5.10b PG13) : Photo
By: Bob Banks When: Feb 26, 2014

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Comments: Game on. Example: The Mandala was rapped down and cleaned (by someone else) prior to Sharma's FA.

And listen, my opinion don't mean shit. I'm just some dude that barely climbs anymore trying to keep the lingo straight. If I were you no way would I balk at rappel cleaning a route on the crappy rock we have around here. And I sure as hell wouldn't trust someone else to do it for me either.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Upper Foothill (The Hideout... : Biome (5.10b PG13) : Photo
By: Bob Banks When: Feb 26, 2014

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Comments: To me (and a lot of people) the term “ground-up” is you start at the bottom and what’s above is unknown and you deal with it, therein the adventure lies. Hell, it might not even be possible to get to the top. Rapping the route for any reason immediately eliminates that sense of adventure, the unknown becomes known. Bachar (one of my heroes), among others, personified this for ground-up climbing. I’d wager that Reese would backpedal a bit on his statement if he could.

Again, I wasn’t trying to h... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Upper Foothill (The Hideout... : Biome (5.10b PG13) : Photo
By: Bob Banks When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: I'm only mentioning this because you made note of it (and seriously I'm not trying to be a dick), but you either do a climb ground up or you don't. Rapping down to 'clean' it is pre-inspecting the route. You can't have it both ways.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : West Nile Boulder (aka The ... : West Nile (aka The Warmup) (V3+)
By: Bob Banks When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: Yup, remember those guys calling it West Nile Boulder. Also, I remember Robbie doing a hard line on this (or maybe it was Al??....Neil would know).


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Jabberwocky (V2+)
By: Bob Banks When: Jan 6, 2014

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Comments: This problem is called Paradise Lost V2.

Ocean's 11, Page 43, Problem 55.

Offwidth to the right is Gluttony, a 15' miserable slog-fest worth doing if only for the misery of it.


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