Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Dancing Outlaw (V8)
By: Bob Banks When: May 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seems to me that if the undercling has broken then it could only make the move from it easier, since you'd be closer with your hands and less scrunched up with your feet. Don't know how much broke off, but if it was only an inch then that would be a pretty significant difference. Bummer.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Hell of Being Crushed A... (5.13a)
By: Bob Banks When: May 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Wang Chi.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Dreams (V8-9)
By: Bob Banks When: May 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: From the photo, I'm fairly certain this problem is called Dreams, which used to be pretty easy, basically a couple moves on jugs under a cave. I certainly don't agree with people renaming problems because holds break. Although this may or may not be the case here.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Old Pro Skill (5.12d)
By: Bob Banks When: May 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: To further already shattered egos out there, Pro Skill was rated 12c for many years. I always called it 12c/13b.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : All Mod Cons (V9)
By: Bob Banks When: May 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice job Tim. Looks about as kosher as it could possibly get.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Painted Cave : ... : The Trojan Arete (V8+)
By: Bob Banks When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure why Bernd is credited with the FA? Without question, Dave Griffith owns that particular accolade.
Also, the way people stack pads these days, I'd be surprised if someone hadn't done a ground-up ascent in the last few years. It's hard, but it's not exactly cutting edge.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : Smokeys Cave
By: Bob Banks When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't remember seeing that cave, but looks pretty good. I never really ventured that far towards Gun Club territory. Kelly Lindsay would know better than me anyways.
Hey Sean, did you lose your O11 at Lizard's Mouth? I found a copy up there maybe 3-4 years ago and still have it sitting on my shelf. I put up a note about it, but never heard from anybody. Pretty easy to identify since there's personal photos and tick lists inside of it.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Bandito (V9)
By: Bob Banks When: Feb 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is fricking awesome. I tried this a bunch when we first developed this boulder and was far too weak to get enough lift to get over the lip. I thought that move seemed really hard. Good name too. Well done!
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : ... : Photo
By: Bob Banks When: Feb 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rad.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Zombie Armageddon (a.k.a. D... (V10)
By: Bob Banks When: Feb 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like a video of you not climbing it to me. [/rimshot]
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Neon Genesis Project (V11+)
By: Bob Banks When: Feb 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Once again: Mutants Amok is a bad example if you want to talk about a precedent for gluing holds. The "glued" hold Tim and Andy are referring to was chiseled into a fingerbucket 1995-ish(?) by a party who shall remain nameless. The hold was then filled in with [ugly] glue to return the problem to its more 'natural' state by another party who shall remain Stainless...errr, nameless. There is a longer and slightly humorous story behind all this hullabaloo that didn't make the final... more >>
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Neon Genesis Project (V11+)
By: Bob Banks When: Feb 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mutants Amok is a bad example if you want to talk about a precedent for gluing. There is a sordid history behind all that gunk and it has nothing to do with ‘reinforcing’ the hold.
For what it’s worth, I have always been against any gluing rock in Santa Barbara. There are a few reasons for this, so please hear me out:
1) It doesn’t last. All the sandstone here is choss. Potter's Point in particular is one step further: mega-choss. People have used Sika/epoxy on SB sandstone in ... more >>
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Squash (V3)
By: Bob Banks When: Feb 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think it was spring 2004 that the Forest Service came in and basically clearcut Lizard's Mouth for fire abatement. After that, several boulders that were previously inaccessible because of seriously dense vegetation were primed. This is one of them. The Gangster Hippie boulder was another.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : Top of the world/Entry way
By: Bob Banks When: Jan 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: A long way back I was psyched on Kauk Slab for a while but a hold that was already brittle broke a bit more and I lost interest. My good friend Reed Bartlett came within probably an inch of doing it as a run & jump a long time ago. As far as I know it never got done.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Little Bear (V7-8)
By: Bob Banks When: Jan 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember trying this problem after Bernd told me about it and thought it was RAD. Didn't do it though.
Excerpt from an email from Bernd, 2/1/2007 regarding new problems at The Mouth and The Yard:
"...Nathan Welton had found a cool sloper problem on the Top of the World, Ma boulder, and I got to do it. It starts on the undercling, goes to the jug and then out left of the marginal sloping arete. I called it Little Bear. I don't know how hard."
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard
By: Bob Banks When: Jan 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Tim. Can we clone you? Cause almost nobody else seems to give a shit.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Windwalker (V7)
By: Bob Banks When: Jan 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sean, from your description, I'm pretty sure that this is right next to the classic one-mover Brute Force.
O11: Page 67, problem 23 - "Project V? - The sloping rail directly left of Brute Force"
I can't even remember it, but yeah, probably been done after all these years. Nice job.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth
By: Bob Banks When: Jan 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well that explains everything. Someone put Juggalos in charge of cleaning up graffiti. Who is Larry and can someone PM me his phone number or email?
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth
By: Bob Banks When: Jan 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is recent, as in within the last couple months. These are problems that I do every single time I go to The Mouth. My previous visit was maybe October(?), there was fresh tagging (big colorful shit) at Brigid O'Shaughnessey and Sunset Boulevard. I don't think a climber did this removal, but someone possibly well intentioned who after botching one boulder, made the genius decision to carry on with the project. This is categorized as: EPIC FAIL.
If this person decides... more >>
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth
By: Bob Banks When: Jan 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah Aaron, I'm sure you're right about that. I was perhaps a bit too pissed off to notice the obvious. What galls me is that it was a technique that obviously did more damage than the graffiti, yet they did it on another boulder (at least). Maybe not a climber, but good intentions or not, they're a complete dumbshit. Hopefully we can track them down and put a cease to it before they do any more damage.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth
By: Bob Banks When: Jan 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Showing that there is no end to the degree to which humans can be hyper-lame, some jackass thought that the best way to get rid of graffiti was to chisel it out. This is at the base of Double Indemnity, it used be a wall of hard patina:
| Chiseling
Submitted By: Bob Banks on Jan 6, 2013
|
The graffiti at the base of Brigid O'Shaughnessy was also chiseled out in the same way. Perhaps others. Sad.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Mr Witty (V7)
By: Bob Banks When: Jan 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely 'still goes'. Last time I was up there it was the same as it's been the last 10 years. If you're not getting your feet over the bulge, you're not using the right feet!
Edit: Beta video
Mister Witty
This video is probably 15 years ago, but the foot beta is the same. The hold I lock off to (and then knock on) up high is the old patina knob that's lip broke off. If you're really strong you can still do it this way, but I also found a way using a sidepull... more >>
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Jabberwocky (V2+ PG13)
By: Bob Banks When: Jan 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to ask what the point of this entry is with neither description, location nor photo?
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Tar Creek (the Swimming Hol...
By: Bob Banks When: Dec 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A little something I wrote up on The Swimming Hole along with a video of some of the old classic boulder problems (none of which remain).
Swimming Hole Tribute and Video
On a side note, as Jeff alluded to, we don't go down much at all anymore (too depressing) but two of our Crew hiked down last Saturday and found the place completely trashed. They removed and cleaned every fire-pit and carried out two bags of g... more >>
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering
By: Bob Banks When: Dec 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Christ almighty, the layout and font on that blog would make Stevie Wonder cringe. I clicked straight through to his Vimeo page before I stuck a fork in my eyes.
On the O11 note: I will be sold out by the end of next year. Probably give it 6-8 months after that before they're gone from store bookshelves. There is a ZERO percent chance that I will either update or spend my hard earned dollars on another reprint. What that means is that someone needs to step up and start working on ... more >>
|
RSS Feed
