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Member Since: Jul 9, 2001
Last Visit: Oct 16, 2003
Contact Bob Archbold


Point Rank: # 3,830
Total Points: 109
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bob Archbold been climbing?










Contributions


All 47 | Routes 5 | Areas 1 | Photos 2 | Page Improvments | Comments 34 | Posts | Stars 5 | Ratings
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Afternoon Thunder

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c (3)

Sport, 1 pitch, 50'

SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Cavity

Sep 17, 2002

Deja' Vu Prophecy

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (12)

Sport, 2 pitches, 240'

SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Middle Marker

Aug 30, 2002

Hang a Right at Fourth Avenue

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (7)

Trad, 2 pitches, 220'

SD : Custer State Park : ... : Spire Four

Aug 10, 2002

PB & J

5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 110'

SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Peanut

Aug 19, 2001

Political Prowness

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (9)

Trad, 4 pitches, 420'

SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : White House Wall

Jul 9, 2001

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Peanut

SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Marker

Aug 10, 2002

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
This is a photo that Paul Muehl had taken and produced into a postcard for his climbing friends. For several years in the late 1970's to the early 1980's we had a group of friends always show up for the second week of August and we all climbed and climbed and climbed. One day we would all go to the Ten Pins and do them all. This is a photo of someone on every summit. This Climb-a-thon was August 1979

This is a photo that Paul Muehl had taken and produced into a postcard for his climbing friends. For several years in the late 1970's to the early 1980's we had a group of friends always show up for t

SD : Custer State Park : ... : Cerberus (5.8)

Aug 16, 2002

Leading the first ascent of "Four Little Fishies" in 1979

Leading the first ascent of "Four Little Fishies" in 1979

SD : Custer State Park : ... : Four Little Fishies (5.9)

Aug 10, 2002

Contributed Comments

 

Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Sandberg Peak
By: Bob Archbold When: Oct 16, 2003

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Comments: I was up in the Needles today (13/16/03) and Sandberg Peak is still intact.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 20, 2003

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Comments: To the Anonymous Coward Your underground lore is very incorrect. I would say that I was not over my head, but rather not very rich in 1979 to on that particular day that I climbed Trojan Determination I only had a total of two bolts to my name along with a small selection of pitons for doing that route. I sat at the bottom of the route examining the route and making the best plan for using the reources I had at hand. I planned to go up the trough then exit early to get to a location where I coul... more >>


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas
By: Bob Archbold When: Sep 16, 2002

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Comments: BEWARE, BEWARE, BEWARE!!!!!!! Some one is chopping routes of their bolts in the Rushmore Area. Ron Yahne and I have been diligently replacing bad bolts and anchors for the last three years in the Rushmore area to make the area SAFE. We are now discontinuing our bolt replacement and Anchor replacement program. We WILL NOT replace or repair any bolts or anchors. Apparently someone doesn't like the bolts there. But beware, THERE ARE ALOT OF BAD BOLTS AND ANCHORS in the Rushmore area that still need... more >>


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Cavity : Stormy Night (5.7)
By: Bob Archbold When: Sep 13, 2002

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Comments: The anchors have been lowered so to not have to do the last few feet of the chimney


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Two : East Face (5.6)
By: Bob Archbold When: Sep 8, 2002

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Comments: You can rap the route with just one 165ft (50m) rope easily.you'll do it in three rappels. A 55m or 185 is rope left over.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon
By: Bob Archbold When: Sep 4, 2002

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Comments: For those of you who are interested a guidebook is in the proces of being written for Spearfish Canyon. It should be published and out by next spring (03). That is what the author as said that his plans are anyways. He has already done a lot of work on the book.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Needle's Eye : Needle's Eye (5.8 X)
By: Bob Archbold When: Sep 2, 2002

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Comments: That flake is totally worthless, it is cracked most of the way. I don't even stand on it. The easiest climbing of the climb is getting to the pins, it's just that your are getting a little ways off the ground. Just remember the moves do get harder as you get higher with the last moves to the pins being about 5.6


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Critical View : Critical View (5.8)
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 30, 2002

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Comments: This route use to be definately 5.8. But through the course of erosion and the missing stone the start has gotten harder. The ground use to be at least 18 inches higher aqt the base of the rock. I use to be able to walk up to the route and step right up on the big knob. Now I have to make some interesting moves to get on it. Then there was a cheater stone at it's base for awhile which is now gone too.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Needle's Eye : Needle's Eye (5.8 X)
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 30, 2002

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Comments: You are correct, Rich Goldstone did the first free ascent of the Needles Eye along with Don Storjohann. The direct start from the parking lot was first done by Renn Fenton. Vern Phinney didn't know that Renn did it first when he did the route and placed the bolt. Now Dennis Horning did the real scary route of going to the top of the eye itself and exiting towards the summit. This route is real scary, if you feel brave go for it. To lead it once was enough for me.

But the First ascent of the Spi... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Needle's Eye : Needle's Eye (5.8 X)
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 20, 2002

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Comments: When you get to the fixed pitons long runner both of them or the rpoe drag will get you. If you long runner both pitons the rope will run a lot smoother.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 19, 2002

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Comments: As of 8/19/02 the Rushmore area has been getting smoke from the Battle Creek Fire. It all depends on which direction the wind wants to blow on your particular day. I spent the night on the southern flank working the line it wasn't to bad, but the northern division were getting worked hard with a lot of active burning.

Highway 16 out of Rapid City is CLOSED at Catron Blvd. Basically at the Rapid City City limits. The fire had jumped the highway at the Keystone Wye, or intersection. Large areas o... more >>


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Chopping Block : Baba Cool (5.9+)
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 19, 2002

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Comments: In my opinion Bab Cool is 10a. Even though Vern Phinney in his guide book has it rated as 9+. But then most of the 9+'s in Vern's book are 10a. The 10+'s are also 11a


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Needle's Eye
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 18, 2002

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Comments: Things just get lost with time. As time goes by the little things or even some of the big things get lost. There are only a few of us left from when the Agreement happened. Is someone around that can truly remember how Ceaser(SP) really ruled Rome. That is what has happened around here. Even though a few of us do try to remind people of it or educate them courteously about it.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Kamps Crack (Classic Crack) (5.8)
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 15, 2002

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Comments: This route was first climbed August 5, 1965 by Bob Kamps with Mark and Beverly Powell. This is a great climb in the mornings of a really hot day since it will stay cool for sometime. This is also one of the few Needles routes that will form a line of climbers waiting to do it.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Sharkstooth : Boxcars and Airplanes (5.6)
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 15, 2002

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Comments: This route was first climbed from the ground up in 1990 by Bob Archbold and Dave Green


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Reef 1 : Old Number 8 (5.8)
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 15, 2002

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Comments: This route was first climbed from the ground up by Mike and Rusty Lewis.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Reef 1 : Way Cool Junior (5.7)
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 15, 2002

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Comments: The first ascent of this route was done in 1985 by Mike Nona and Brad Edwards


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