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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : The Flake (5.8)
By: bmdhacks When: Apr 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The start can be protected ok with just a .5 and a #3. I threw in a #4 as well but it was a bit tipped out.
Watch your rope drag if doing it in one pitch, the top slab got... interesting.
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Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Presence (5.10a)
By: bmdhacks When: Nov 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Got on this route while trying to climb Visionaries and loved it. Rapped the route with one 60m. If you want, you could traverse on the ledge at the end of P2 and climb the last pitch of Visionaries.
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Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Sticky Revelations (5.10a)
By: bmdhacks When: Nov 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch has a fork after the first two bolts. Going right will get you to the base of P2. Going left is equally fun but you'll end up at the base of the trad dihedral route, or you'll have to traverse 10 feet on a small ledge to the start of pitch 2.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Winds of Fire (5.10a)
By: bmdhacks When: Oct 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you extend your anchor to hang down below the prow, you'll get zero rope drag on toprope and lowering. It's only a foot or two below the chains and has line-of-sight to the belayer. Bring a bit of cordelette and you'll be fine.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Late for Dinner (5.6)
By: bmdhacks When: Sep 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's just new. Don't worry, before long it will be polished all to hell like Rockapella. For now, it's an interesting contrast between the two to see how the rock changes from overuse.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Transformer Corridor : Chomping at the Bit (5.11a)
By: bmdhacks When: Sep 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We rapped off the back of Too Much Fun to reach this climb and decided to toprope it, despite it being way above our grade. I'm 6'2" 195lbs, and tackled the bottom with enough thrashing to churn butter, desperately cranking on the thin flakes at the bottom. Everything held solid, so I'd say don't worry about them.
It goes about 10a/b after the first three bolts. The finger crack was quite fun.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Transformer Corridor : Short Circuit (5.10a)
By: bmdhacks When: Sep 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Note that even the shortest of people can get to the first hold by tugging on the first bolt. I did it to test the hold before stepping back down and making the jump. The rest of the climb is quite fun. A note to timid leaders such as myself: I placed a lot of gear, around 6 pieces from .75 C4 on down, so bring enough if you want to sew it up.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Middle Fork : Grease & Grime Wall : Grease & Grime (5.10b)
By: bmdhacks When: Sep 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ok, I took the warning out of the description. Just a note that around the time of this comment, I pulled off four or five huge holds and feet. A major hold on the roof pull was loose, and the light colored rock at the top was quite chossy. However, I'm 6' 2" at 195lbs so that could be a contributing factor.
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Location: CA : High Desert : Hercules Finger
By: bmdhacks When: Sep 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like the lat/long has been fixed.
The directions given are a bit complex. I just took Camp Rock Road north and turned right on the powerline road. Followed the powerline until I could see Hercules Finger on the left and parked as close as I could get. The sand is deep in places so be careful with your vehicle selection. I took 2wd Ford Escape with bald tires and made it pretty close.
This google maps route is how I did it:
goo.gl/maps/0UcCl
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 29th Street
By: bmdhacks When: Sep 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just to add some clarification on where the climbs are. When you hike up from 29th street, the first wall you reach contains Safety Goggles, Overlooked, 8 Ball Corner Pocket, and Loose Shingles. From there, if you continue ascending the hill you will hit the Bonneville Shoreline Trail. Uphill from the trail are climbs on three distinct rock features. On the left is Rustbucket and Gilbert. The aesthetic towerish thing in the middle has Upstairs, and the mossy looking wall on the right has Mo... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom
By: bmdhacks When: Sep 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wouldn't really call the Utahnics wall approach line a 4th class climb. Seemed like 5.2 to me. Not the sort of thing I could easily do in boots with a backpack containing my rope, lunch, and gear.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Flaming Rock : Tribal Boundaries (5.10a)
By: bmdhacks When: Sep 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Note that you can climb up Raindance and then walk over to this climb's anchors to rappel and toprope.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Schoolroom Area : The Horny Thing (5.10b)
By: bmdhacks When: Aug 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If the cruxy start on this gives you some trouble, you can merge in to this route from either right or left. Either of these options goes at around 5.9, maybe a bit harder. Then you can toprope the start of this climb. I like starting on Chocolate Doobie and then stepping over the gap, it's a fun alternative.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Middle Fork : Lou's Tavern : Project Mayhem (5.9)
By: bmdhacks When: Aug 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: At the time of this writing, this route still needed a lot of cleaning. It doesn't look like there's much matrix to hold in the cobbles, and I pulled a bunch of stuff off as I climbed. Wear a helmet and belay uphill! If it ever cleans up it will be an area classic though.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Middle Fork : Lou's Tavern : Warm & Soapy Lather (5.9)
By: bmdhacks When: Aug 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just a heads up, at the time of this writing this climb was pretty new and still had some stuff coming off it, especially on the lower feet on the opening moves. I'd advise a stick clip until it's cleaned up. My partner blew a huge cobble off on the first move.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : The Trash Compactor : Salty Biscuits (5.10a)
By: bmdhacks When: Aug 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: At the time of this writing, one of the higher bolts has been badly bent. My quickdraw was just a bit too big to get it hooked in, which was a bit sketchy. Consider this route PG13 until it's fixed.
| Bent hanger
Submitted By: bmdhacks on Aug 23, 2012
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Camel Jockey : More Funky Than Gunky (5.9)
By: bmdhacks When: Aug 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you haven't also climbed Gunky down the hill in the sandstone, I highly recommend it. The similarities between Gunky's second pitch and this climb are neat: both are a textured crack corner to a roof pull.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : Shady Lane : Ted (5.10b)
By: bmdhacks When: Jul 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: When we climbed there about a week ago, this route was pre-hung with quick draws. A few days ago the draws were gone and a note was left saying "I have your draws" with a phone number. Not sure if these were fixies, or somebody left an entire rack of draws on the wall for some reason, but perhaps if somebody knows they can inform the author of the note.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Schoolroom Area : Hot 4 Teacher (5.8)
By: bmdhacks When: Jul 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just to clarify, this route is done by staying on the bolt path that goes right. If you go left, it's Little Kahuna.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Central : Greenhorns in Velvet (5.7)
By: bmdhacks When: Jul 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think it's the slab that gets you. Non-steep routes like this can be both technically and psychologically challenging for a beginning leader. The features thin out and a fall comes with the threat of hitting the rock. Still, this route felt like 5.7 slab to me. But it could get harder in the future as the features polish-up.
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Location: WY : Jackson Hole : Hoback Shield : McFlatus Roof Area : Naughty Guides (5.10a)
By: bmdhacks When: Jun 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I highly recommend following the bolts by trying to undercling the first roof of La Bamba or try to ascend straight up the bulge. Straying left into the gulley is easier, but bypasses what we found to be the most interesting and difficult part of the climb.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Central : Red Rider (5.10a)
By: bmdhacks When: Jun 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Make sure to check out the fossils embedded in the rock right at the roof move.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : Simpson Rock : Butter that Bacon (5.6)
By: bmdhacks When: May 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not quite sure why a single pitch of 5.6 warrants so many 4-star votes. We found it a bit dirty from lack of use. Still, bring a camera as the view from the top was amazing.
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Location: CA : High Desert : Hercules Finger : North Side : Limp Side (5.7)
By: bmdhacks When: May 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb should be required for every newbie gym climber that takes a lead class. It's nearly impossible to find such an aesthetic tower that has such a quality easy route bolted all the way up in one pitch.
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Location: CA : High Desert : Lucerne Limestone : Main Wall : Main Wall : Slut Buckets (5.8)
By: bmdhacks When: Apr 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is currently covered in an intense amount of bird shit. Sending it is a disgusting, smelly mess.
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