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Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Fall Line (5.12d) : Photo
By: blakeherrington When: Mar 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I took this with the gimmicky little pretend tilt shift mode on a canon s100.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Town Wall : Main Wall, left side : Stern Farmer (5.12b)
By: blakeherrington When: Feb 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yet another variation is to move left after the anchor and reach the 2nd crux of Japanese gardens from directly below, climbing out the flake. I've heard this variation called "Sushi Farmer" and you'll want whatever gear you like on Stern, plus a hand and finger cam and a few long slings. If both of these climbs were already 4-stars, this variation is off the end of the quality scale.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Cactus Flower Tower summit : Blood on the Tracks (5.9)
By: blakeherrington When: Jan 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Glad you guys had fun on the route! I like mossy thrutching (truly) but I see how P1 might be a bit of a downer for most folks.
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Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Unknown 1 (5.10)
By: blakeherrington When: Dec 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is much more interesting and entertaining than it looks.
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Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : JR Token (5.10)
By: blakeherrington When: Dec 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The fullest-value version of JR:
Start in a finger crack/shallow left-facing corner on the left side of the broken pillar, which is 5.10 liebacking off the ground. Climb the normal route. From the anchor, step left into a steep finger crack with face holds, which leads up into a corner and on to the 2nd anchor at the very top of the wall. This is TR-able with a 70m rope, but not a 60 unless you do all sorts of pillar-scrambling shenanigans and other scary stuff.
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Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Suzuki (5.10+)
By: blakeherrington When: Nov 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has a fun extension. We had hoped to stay in the contrived finger crack, but a few stacks of blocks convinced us to use the corner. With a few minutes of easy trundling, the finger crack would be good to go. From a belay on the rim, we walked right to the JR Extension anchors and rapped.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Town Wall : Narrow Arrow and further ri... : Narrow Arrow Overhang (5.12d PG13)
By: blakeherrington When: Oct 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris told me he never climbed this route, but did cleanly TR the arete section beneath the roof and rated those moves .12d. When he was TRing that section in the '90s, there were no bolts in place, where there are currently 2. The current higher anchor was not there either - he mentioned elaborate shenanigans to build an anchor that would let him work the moves beneath the roof.
Maybe the person who put in those bolts did the FFA of the pitch, or else it seems like Ben Gilkison did - [[in 20... more >>
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Town Wall : Main Wall, left side : Numbah Ten (5.12)
By: blakeherrington When: Jul 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I brought a wire brush and gave Numbah Ten a good scrubbing the other day, removing some moss and a large huckleberry bush in the process. This route is amazing, but needs more traffic, especially on the upper half.
It seems like the first couple bolts do a horrible job of protecting the climber on the hardest moves - maybe they are a remnant of where old aid bolts or pins were? Anyhow, using a 4' sling from bolt #2 allows for a good clips from stances, though obviously it makes this a l... more >>
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Town Wall : Main Wall, left side : Stern Farmer (5.12b) : Photo
By: blakeherrington When: May 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you follow the blue line, you are climbing something a lot harder than .12b
The standard way to climb Stern Farmer (free) is to move right off the Japanese Gardens Flake near the 2nd bolt.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : The Velvet Tongue (5.12+)
By: blakeherrington When: Apr 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Getting back INTO the corner was weird and difficult, but getting OUT of the corner, that was hard as nails! This route is awesome!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Ancient Futures (5.12a)
By: blakeherrington When: Apr 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is stellar. The 2nd 5.12 might be harder than the first, but with a crux so low, it's an easier redpoint. Are there any bad lines across the BV wall? That whole zone of rock is top-notch.
For the lazy folks like me who'd rather leave 8' of cord and a biner than haul up a second rope, here was our descent.
Rap Beta w/1 70m, all from rap-equipped bolts unless noted:
-Lower one climber from atop the elephant trunk back to the belay. Second climber raps to the 5th(?) bolt (brand new),... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Sandy Corridor : Chrysler Crack (5.9)
By: blakeherrington When: Apr 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has that sport route to the right even bent sent? Massive lockoffs from 1/2 pad edges that would seem to grow sandier and sloppier over time.
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Location: WA : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : M & M Wall : Hang Overhang (5.11c)
By: blakeherrington When: Feb 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route and the next-door Stemmin' Ms are probably 2 of Vantage's top 10 climbs. They are techy, thoughtful, and memorable. It's also possible to climb the left one (Hang) through the crux, and step right up through the roof on stemmin Ms.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: blakeherrington When: Jan 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Drew,
You probably didn't veer far enough right to find the first of the 5.11+ sections on p5 or p6. That pitch is excellent fingers in a corners, pulls a small roof into a slot, and then can be linked up to two-boulder ledge. The rock and climber is great an it's more straightforward and easier than the second 5.11+ pitch.
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Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Gold Rush (5.10-)
By: blakeherrington When: Jan 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you climb most of gold rush, step right to the horizontal on Alchemy, and finish via the alchemy corner and overhung arete, I can't imagine a better 5.10 trad pitch anywhere. I guess the local name is Pan Handling.
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Kleptocracy (5.13-)
By: blakeherrington When: Dec 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I never redpointed this one before moving away, so I guess my vote is invalid, but this route was a lot of fun to work on and features a really amazing dynamic crux move that I seldom stuck. It sure seemed hard as compared to other ".12d" routes in the area, but I don't have much power for moves like that. Regardless of the grade, it's a great pitch and seems pretty overlooked.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Sublime Vision (M7-8)
By: blakeherrington When: May 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Josh, does this follow the whole "Sublime Buttress" summer rock climb? or veer left into the corner system? Nice job to you and Steve!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Convent : The Middle Way (5.12)
By: blakeherrington When: Apr 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: We ripped 2/3 of the p1 anchor under body weight, now there's just one bolt left. Green-alien-ish pieces should work for a backup.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Texas Hold 'Em (5.11c)
By: blakeherrington When: Apr 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brady's loose hold is gone now, trundled by surprise...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Risky Business (5.10c R)
By: blakeherrington When: Mar 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: 1/3 of the way up p2 there's a large squared-off jug that is loose and gonna rip on someone. Just above this, the thin L-facing flake is flexy enough that any gear behind it can be cleaned by just expanding the flake with a nut tool and watching the hardware fall out.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : The Industrial Wall : Soul Train (5.12b)
By: blakeherrington When: Dec 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The last in-place QD on Soul Train was sun-bleached and shredded, with more than 60% of the webbing torn through on 12/15. We swapped it for one of the draws off the anchor, leaving a QD and a carabiner up top.
The new final QD is now heavily padded with athletic tape, but it's a short-term fix until replaced with a couple chain links or perhaps a stiff draw with hard-plastic coating. There's a sharp edge of stone that scrapes the back of the draw at the point where the upper carabiner meets th... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Brown Wall : Crocodile Tears (5.11+)
By: blakeherrington When: Dec 3, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I gave the steep finger crack a good cleaning and de-bird-nest-ifying. This pitch is rad, with 3 different cruxy bits and fun easier climbing in between.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Starlight (5.12d)
By: blakeherrington When: Oct 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kevin and Glen- Thunder is a gem, and I've had so much fun there. Thanks for the time and money involved in putting anchors and bolts up across The Ridge.
1. Starlight would be a completely safe trad lead to do ground-up and onsight for anyone able to place nuts and cams. It would be a shame for future climbers to neglect this potential due to a mistaken impression received from Mountain Project that the gear is infrequent or unreliable.
2. Though irrelevant to this discussion, I want to def... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome
By: blakeherrington When: Oct 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: That overhanging crack is more like thin hands/hands, and a bit of grainy rock.
There's another great pitch located halfway between Wunsch's Simulator and the Teepee Tower Crack (so just downhill from Wunsch's Simulator). It might be listed as "Turbo Betty" in the old Trout guide, but it's the beautiful finger and hand crack amid some neon lichen, leading to a webbing anchor from a horn and fixed stopper. ~5.10+
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: blakeherrington When: Sep 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's hard to believe we even did the same route as some of the folks bad-mouthing Astro Dog.
Jason's topo (minus the rappel distances) is great.
Apart from the last two pitches of scruffy scrambling to a short chimney topout, the route is ~1,500' of excellence. Lots of long 5.10 cracks and corners, with 3 short 5.11 sections which protect well. P3 (5.11a with old bolt) is a sideways move, good gear available at foot level, junky bolt in your face.
P5, just below two-boulder bivy, is listed a... more >>
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