Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : Dial 911 (5.13a)
By: Blake Cash When: Mar 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah. 13a by itself to the break, in my opinion. Out to the sloper rail is powerful, the moves over the roof are easily 5.12 and not over until you have moved out left past the last bolt. I'd say 13a to the break...then 15-20 feet of 5.12/mid 5.12 and then 5.10 to the anchor. I don't know where I got 12 feet from.
Best 13a I've done anywhere.
|
Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : The Racist (5.13b)
By: Blake Cash When: Mar 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: So Reed didn't give it the 13b rating? hmm...interesting.
|
Location: GA : Rocktown : The Orb : The Orb (V8)
By: Blake Cash When: Feb 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux, for me, was matching crack hold, cutting feet and staying on the wall. Mantle is rough too...don't take it for granted, get it wired.
|
Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Motherlode : Chainsaw (5.12a)
By: Blake Cash When: Feb 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: yep. chainsaw massacre. quite boring as well.
|
Location: GA : Rocktown : The Orb : Kurk the Roach (V1)
By: Blake Cash When: Feb 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kurk the Roach is actually not the problem you are referring to. It is to the left of this problem you describe. Comes out a roof on edges to a sloping pinch, then moves through more slopers and a really cool soft ball-like hold at the top.
|
Location: GA : Rocktown : Asphalt Boulders : Grape Ape (V4 PG13)
By: Blake Cash When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great description, man. Feel like I was there climbing it when I read this...
|
Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : North Clear Creek : North Clear Creek : 441 (5.12b/c)
By: Blake Cash When: Jan 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: So I take it this route isn't 35 feet if you need a 70m rope?
|
Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Tieranny Roofs : Photo
By: Blake Cash When: Jan 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Edit: Tieranny is now equipped with climb tech draws!
|
Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : Image Wall : Super Final (5.12b)
By: Blake Cash When: Jan 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Copying straight from the guidebook to this website isn't exactly the best form, IMO. Tell us something that we don't get from the book...that is assuming you have even climbed the route.
|
Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Drive-By Crag : Kaleidescope (5.13c)
By: Blake Cash When: Dec 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Then the route's 13a and a 13c eliminate.
|
Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : The Meeker Rat (5.12d)
By: Blake Cash When: Dec 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Meeks...that's his last name.
|
Location: WV : New River Gorge : South Side : Kaymoor : White Wall
By: Blake Cash When: Nov 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah...hard trad isn't the name of the game....mid range sport is.
|
Location: WV : New River Gorge : Meadow River : First Buttress : Boomerang (5.13a)
By: Blake Cash When: Nov 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thought this route was cool until I realized you could climb the jug filled crack 2 feet to the right of the bolt line the whole way up. The moves to the left of the crack are cool...but the route is indeed an eliminate this way.
|
Location: WV : New River Gorge : South Side : Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall : Fuel Injector (5.13b)
By: Blake Cash When: Oct 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would up doing the "shadow" move at the hole. Pretty great route. The move to the hole, while big, didn't seem to be the crux in my opinion...it's the moves after that are the hardest. The intro slab is kinda hard, 5.12...on perfect rock. The moves from the rest to the chains climb like a long V7 or so. One of my personal favorites at the New.
|
Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fern Point : Freaky Stylee (5.12a)
By: Blake Cash When: Oct 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll confirm this. The yellow tcu does indeed work. My gf placed it on her send and said it fit perfectly.
|
Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : The Racist (5.13b)
By: Blake Cash When: Oct 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll also add that one needs a LONG sling on the last bolt in order to clip it from the clipping hold...otherwise you're hosed.
|
Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : Pocket Route (5.13a)
By: Blake Cash When: Oct 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very doable for the grade.. Great rests, friendly holds, and just enough Endless oddity to make this route a great first for the area. I'd recommend sticking the 2nd bolt as there's a hard, balance-y move at the height of the run b/t the first and second and a fall would have you slamming into your belayer.
|
Location: WV : New River Gorge : Meadow River : Area 51 : The Project (5.13c)
By: Blake Cash When: Oct 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree. Very straight forward route, not your typical NRG route. ALso, it's not 90ft, more like 60-70 feet at the most. One of the best though.
|
Location: MA : Mormon Hollow : Priaprism (5.12-)
By: Blake Cash When: Sep 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing route. I remember when the anchors on this thing were gone and you had to do the last move to where the anchor is now...then run it out all the way to the 5.8's anchors and lower. Super fun that way!
|
Location: TN : Sunset Park
By: Blake Cash When: Sep 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why would anyone hike DOWN the rifle pits trail, across the upper truck trail, then back UP the gum springs trail? That's horrible hiking beta. You can just stick to the Bluff trail the whole way...it's flat the whole time. From Cravens it's 1.5 miles to Sunset.
|
Location: Kansas : Elepant Rock Southwest : The Beast (V9-10)
By: Blake Cash When: Sep 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm sure it's exactly like Es Pontas. HA!
|
Location: WV : New River Gorge : South Side : Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall : Tony the Tiger (5.11c)
By: Blake Cash When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. The only thing that detracts from this route is that you can move right at the 3rd bolt instead of left and completely bypass the crux. Great route even if you go right, but maybe 11a this way. Going right makes the most sense however...
|
Location: WV : New River Gorge : South Side : Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall : Slash and Burn (5.12d)
By: Blake Cash When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route hardly felt entry level for 12d...in fact it felt HARD for 12d. The first half of the route is sustained and no rest at all, long long pulls and pretty tenuous feet the whole way. It's not over until you rock up and over past the 6th bolt. Savor the 5.11- to the top...as it's great rock climbing all by itself and is still interesting and enjoyable. Perfect rock climb!
|
Location: TN : Foster Falls : Main Wall : Ethnic Cleansing (5.12b/c)
By: Blake Cash When: Aug 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: last bolt before the anchors came off today when I was out there. Not sure what the party did with the bolt and new climb tech draw...but be sure to check the bolts/nuts and make sure they are tight.
|
Location: TN : Deep Creek : Whipping Post (5.12a)
By: Blake Cash When: Aug 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route on great rock. Hard right off of the deck and pumpy the rest of the way with a great toss at the top!
|
RSS Feed
