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el guapo


Member Since: Aug 3, 2006
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact BJ Sbarra


Point Rank: # 806
Total Points: 781
Last Year: 60
Last 30 Days: 20
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has BJ Sbarra been climbing?










Contributions


All 1425 | Routes 44 | Areas 5 | Photos 19 | Page Improvments | Comments 171 | Posts 55 | Stars 882 | Ratings 249
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Physical Graffiti (5.6)
By: BJ Sbarra When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: If you lost some gear here back in March, shoot me a PM. Just unpacking a bag and forgot about the booty we found.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : Redstone Area
By: BJ Sbarra When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: It's good to go right now. Have fun!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Chasing Shadows (5.8+)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Mar 30, 2014

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Comments: Very fun. P2 had a good bit of hollow rock through the mid-section, solid pro wasn't super obvious at first. P3 is fantastic.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Arch Enemy (5.9)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Mar 30, 2014

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Comments: Fun route, finger crack 3rd pitch lived up to the hype, so fun. Thought getting to the second bolt on p2 was a little exciting, moving up the sandy, hollow pillar thing, but reasonable. Chimney part was a hoot.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Sweet Thin (5.9)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Mar 30, 2014

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Comments: Crazy how thin that flake is! Very fun route, while I do think Armatron takes a more aesthetic line up the buttress, I did like how the difficulty was more sustained on this one, and great variety too!


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Four Blocks Crag
By: BJ Sbarra When: Mar 9, 2014

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Comments: Fun crag, nice work!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Redstone : Narrows, Redstone, McClure ... : Crystal Visions (WI4-5)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Mar 4, 2014

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Comments: Snowshoes are a good idea on the approach. Way up the mountainside, there are good views from up there.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Redstone : Narrows, Redstone, McClure ... : Redstone Pillar (WI4)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Feb 25, 2014

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Comments: This approach is indeed "allowed." Just be sure to walk on the side of the road, and be courteous to anyone you see along the way. The Redstone Pillar itself is actually owned by Pitkin County Open Space, and this is the legal access to it.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Main Elk Crag
By: BJ Sbarra When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: Lost a camera at Main Elk yesterday somewhere between the Mutton Wall and South Buttress/Prow area. Went back to look for it and didn't see it anywhere, hoping someone found it. Thanks.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : Redstone Area
By: BJ Sbarra When: Jan 7, 2014

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Comments: Hmm, you might be referring to the Loft, which sits above the main boulders. It's in the guidebook. Also, Sex After 50 is on the back side of the Weider Boulder. If you go up the trail to it, go around to the right, and then head left when you reach the southeast corner of the boulder. It's not obvious until you're back there, and a month or so ago there was zero chalk on it.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Redstone : Narrows, Redstone, McClure ... : Dirty Linen Gully (WI2+ M2 Easy Snow)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Jan 4, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun adventure route, with typically lower angled but thin ice. It's a good idea to climb it on a cloudy day.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Redstone : Narrows, Redstone, McClure ... : The Drool (WI4-5)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Jan 4, 2014

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Comments: The second pitch is 40-50' tall and worth doing on its own right. It's typically WI4/4+ and can also be top roped.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Kubrick's
By: BJ Sbarra When: Oct 13, 2013

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Comments: Dave, I think the route you are talking about is Marcus Licinius Crassus, 5.12.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Cockometer (5.10)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: The anchor is two good bolts but completely not equalized. It needs some chain or webbing, didn't have either when I climbed it last week. As is you end up rappelling off the top bolt only, with the bottom as a backup not taking any of the load.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Super Surprised (5.10-)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: Very fun as one long pitch, get creative with the rope management or drag could be heinous. We were able to get down with an 80m rope without any directionals, but just barely. I also liked having 2 .3's and a .4 for the start. Crazy this didn't have anchors on it, great find! FYI the left bolt (not the hanger) on the anchor atop the pillar is moving.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Smell the Meat (5.10)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: Agree the flake feels heads up, wonder if that gear would hold? Thankfully the layback felt super secure. Fun route with good variety.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Lower Breadloaves - Provo W...
By: BJ Sbarra When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: FYI there is a ground wasp nest right now below the big boulder that sits perched against the slab at the base between Finer Niner and Triple Roofs. We inadvertently bothered them and a bunch flew out of the ground.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Fall Line (5.10b)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: This route needs a new anchor. Two days ago the right hand bolt was wiggling, I was able to tighten it down but it will probably come loose again. The left bolt isn't all that great and moves as well. Not sure what the policy is here on anchor replacement but will happily donate hardware next time I'm in the area.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - West : Rollercoaster (5.9)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: Yesterday the nut on the third bolt was loose enough to take off by hand. I cranked it down as much as I could but it could use a proper wrench. Also it looks like the hanger can't sit flush with rock so some loctite would probably be a good idea.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - West : Delay of Game (5.8)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: An 80m rope is perfect for this thing, no rapping into the gully shenanigans needed.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave
By: BJ Sbarra When: Jul 2, 2013

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Comments: A huge thanks to Mike Schneiter for all his hard work developing the rest of the left side of this zone!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Lincoln Creek Cliff
By: BJ Sbarra When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: There's actually also a shortcut that goes straight across the hill side from the boulderfield, so you don't have to climb up to and then down from Sunset. Right before you start climbing up the hill out of the boulders, look for cairns leading right. It's a bit rough in spots but pretty easy to follow.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : The Narrows : The Gash
By: BJ Sbarra When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: Bring a helmet for sure! And maybe some body armor....


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+)
By: BJ Sbarra When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: Just a heads up that the lower of the two newer bolts at the second pitch belay is complete junk. It moves around quite a bit in the hole and would not tighten down, it just spins and spins. With the other pin there, the anchor is adequate for now. I'm not sure what the word is on replacing hardware here, but I can certainly bring a replacement next time if it's allowed.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Luhr's Route aka Right Dihe... (5.9)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: Though the description says to only clip the first two bolts, I found it nice to clip all three, putting a double length sling on the 3rd. This will keep you protected pulling the moves into the corner, otherwise you are soloing at that point if you only clip the first two.


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