Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Sunburn (5.7)
By: Bill Gibbs When: Oct 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Name change in order..."Bush Series". I would actually say a lot of pruning is in order. There was just as much bushwacking on the climb as there was getting to the climb. There was also poor rock on the runout pitch 4 wide chimney/gully so watch out and check every hand and foot hold. It was easy 5th class climbing but if you aren't comfortable running it out for 30'+ with decking a certainty, then I'd suggest you find a safer climb. I personally had two foot holds and one hand hold break in th... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Rawlpindi (5.7)
By: Bill Gibbs When: Oct 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very enjoyable route! You can combine the first 3 pitches into 2, but watch out for rope drag if you run the first pitch long (185')like we did. You can escape this climb onto "Birdland" in several places if you need to rappel. Only do it in an emergency though, because the upper pitches are just as enjoyable as "Birdland".
The pitch 4 & 5 rappel slings could use replacing soon. We backed them up with one sewn sling each.
|
Location: ID : City of Rocks : Photo
By: Bill Gibbs When: Aug 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: awesome picture!!!
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Birdland (5.7+)
By: Bill Gibbs When: Oct 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A better description for the approach would be to disregard the standard approach for Brass Wall. Instead, continue on the main trail and after you have passed Brass Wall "Left", and started the switchbacking for Darkshadows area, look for a couple of huge, light colored boulders with darker spots all over them. Near those boulders look for a trail off to the right and follow the cairns.
My partner and I got rained off just as I was 15' out on the 4th pitch lead, so we didn't get to finish the... more >>
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Femp (5.9)
By: Bill Gibbs When: Feb 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 2 definitely makes this a classic and worth doing. You want the lead on pitch 2.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Sorcerer (5.8+)
By: Bill Gibbs When: Aug 17, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found a satisfactory belay just to the right of "...Ancient Mariner's first belay as I planned to do the "Apprentice" variation. This was my partner's first trad and multi-pitch route; so I chose to improvise on pitch two instead. I climbed past the "Apprentice" variation dihedral, and when the "Sorcerer's'" deep, flared crack opened back up to the left about 30' below the roof, I traversed out left on the face towards the top of "Apprentice's" diminishing crack. I found a good small... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Johnny Vegas (5.6)
By: Bill Gibbs When: Apr 23, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd honestly have to give this route a higher star rating, 2.5 at least, and as for the grade...by Red Rocks standards I would definitely have to say this was a slight step up from anything in the 5.6 range there. If it were in other places I could see it being called 5.6. Anyhow, it's all subjective.
By the way, the nice shiny bolt on the 3rd pitch is for the 5.9 variation in the right facing dihedral, which is by far better than the right traverse out to the rounded arete. Going right at the... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: Bill Gibbs When: Apr 20, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh yes! Josh is right...Having to retrieve climbing shoes from the top sucked...but now I hold guide status for the descent.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+)
By: Bill Gibbs When: Mar 27, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route April 2003, and loved it even though I took a 30+ foot whipper on the 6th pitch lead when a huge hold broke. My partner and I both agreed that the scary pitch wasn't the 3rd pitch traverse, (which by the way protected just fine), but rather the upper part of the 6th pitch where it is run out over bad gear and out of sight from the belayer after traversing left from the third bolt...all over solid .10 climbing. I also felt the crux fouth pitch was a little hairy over marginal gear... more >>
|
RSS Feed
