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 ADVANCED
On top of Independence Monument


Member Since: Sep 6, 2001
Last Visit: Aug 25, 2014
Contact Bill Wright


Point Rank: # 1,226
Total Points: 497
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
8 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bill Wright been climbing?










Contributions


All 225 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 66 | Page Improvments | Comments 107 | Posts 8 | Stars 23 | Ratings 15
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Triple Jeopardy (5.8)
By: Bill Wright When: Nov 29, 2001

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Comments: This route is rated 5.9 in the Stewart Green book, but 5.8 seems about right. Lots of rest, lots of options, short, gear every inch of the way. Great intro leading route for this area. Unfortunately, there aren't many near this easy.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Supercrack of the Desert (5.10)
By: Bill Wright When: Nov 29, 2001

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Comments: While getting onto the pedestal is definitely the technical crux, the hardest part for me is just enduring to the anchors. I have relatively small hands and the #3 Camalot-sized crack feels insecure and drains me. I think this is a MUCH harder crack than the Incredible Hand Crack (which is trivial except for the overhanging twenty foot section) and much harder than the perfect #2 Camalot crack of Generic Crack. I also find it harder than any other 5.10 crack that I have done in this ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Yellow Traverse (5.9)
By: Bill Wright When: Sep 13, 2001

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Comments: I thought this was a pretty interesting route. The climbing is thought provoking because of the questionable gear. Knowing that it was rated "X" or "VS" I looked for gear everywhere and placed about ten pieces on this short traverse. Of course, only maybe 3 or 4 were any good... :-)

Diffraction is the better choice to get to Metamorphosis. It is better protected, has more interesting climbing, and is much better protected for the second.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : X-M (5.10c R)
By: Bill Wright When: Sep 13, 2001

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Comments: As Charles states above, it is quite possible to place good gear for the second on the 2nd pitch. After completing the crux, climb up and set left a few feet to a good stance. From here it isn't hard to reach back to the right and place good gear directly above the crux. The second is completely safe now. I did indeed fall off while following the crux. I went only a couple feet to the left and was able to get back on and do the crux the second time. My advice on the crux - step onto the wall as ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Tombstone (5.11a)
By: Bill Wright When: Sep 13, 2001

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Comments: Actually, while you do climb into an overhanging slot, you never have to use any wide crack technique to climb this route. It is really short and quite fun. I recommend bringing a #4 or even a #4.5 Camalot. You only need single units for this route and about 5 placements will protect it nicely.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Die Heeda Rule (5.11b)
By: Bill Wright When: Sep 13, 2001

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Comments: I think climbing the prow just [right] of the crack is the only way to make this route 11b. It does get you at least ten feet above gear on 5.11 climbing. I think the rating climbed this way is probably 11b. Climbing the crack straight-on seems like it would be more like 5.12. Much, much harder. So, I sort of how the ratings reversed to Tony. I've climbed it (or tried - I couldn't climb the crack) both ways.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Death and Transfiguration (5.11b)
By: Bill Wright When: Sep 9, 2001

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Comments: Actually, Kristo, I believe this route was put up, on-sight and free by Roger Briggs. He was equipped to aid the route and kept thinking he'd start aiding after the next move, but he kept going. An absolutely brilliant on-sight first ascent and a landmark climb for Roger. This route marked his turn to free climbing almost exclusively.

What an enduro route! No move is that super hard, but it is so continuous. One of the hardest parts for me is turning the big "10a" roof. Not! This roof alone is... more >>


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